I should also mention that I never had any problems with brake fade in the ~5K track miles I put onto the car before I had the brake ducts installed.
Not with my setup. Since the splash shields are still there (other than the hole cut into them), the ducting routes air directly onto the rotor, whereas the deflectors would only direct it toward the general area of the hub (towards the shields) and not onto the rotors. So they wouldn't make much difference. Other setups may vary.Litespeeds said:I think I am going to go the route that you did with the brake cooling ducts and the Panther Plus pads. Do I still need the Dali brake deflectors if I am going to do the ducting?
Check your back issues of the NSX Driver magazine published by the NSX Club of America. A few years ago (I think it was in late 2003) I wrote a two-part article on how to maintain the NSX for track use, and photos appeared in the article.Hrant said:Any pics, pretty please :wink:
Be careful. Removing the splash shields allows more heat to reach the ball joints, which are right next to the hubs/rotors. If you want to remove the splash shields, John Vasos (of Acura of Brookfield, NSX track prep specialists) recommends cutting them off but leaving the section between the ball joints and the hubs/rotors.nsxnut said:Heat sheilds... What heat sheilds... They have been gone for some time now.
The reason I went with 2.5 inch is that that seemed to be the largest diameter that could squeeze alongside the lower corners of the radiator. Otherwise you may find that you're stuck going underneath the core support and losing ground clearance (exposing them to damage from road debris or pavement irregularities).nsxnut said:I bought 3" hose..
I agree that two-piece rotors (with floating hats) are a good idea, but I don't think they will do anything about brake fade (which I have never experienced anyway). Rotors get exposed to a lot of heat during track use, and this heat is concentrated on the outer "ring" of the rotor, where the pads come into contact. With one-piece rotors, the outer ring wants to expand much faster than the inner hat, and this causes stress in the metal, which eventually results in the rotors cracking. Two-piece rotors allow for the differential expansion rates; not only is the inner hat a separate piece from the outer ring, but the hardware used to connect the two allows the connection to "flex" as needed. As a result, two-piece rotors are more resistant to cracking. I have found that one-piece front rotors generally last 4-6 track events before cracking, and two-piece front rotors generally last 8-12 track events before cracking (but they do eventually crack; at least, mine have).ncdogdoc said:Floating hat rotors and good pads/fluid.
Rears? I've had absolutely no problems with the rear brakes! I've only installed ducting on the front brakes, and I've only used the two-piece rotors on the front brakes. I think I've only gone through about two sets of rear rotors in the 11K+ track miles of my NSX (one set did eventually crack, the other due to minimum thickness). I'm now on my 12th set of front rotors. (Also 24th set of front pads and 14th set of rear pads.)ncdogdoc said:My floating hats with a stock 92 setup ran 100 to 200 degrees cooler than a solid rear, so I upgraded to floating rears.
It's a good thing we don't have to worry about trying to read docjohn's handwriting! Although, come to think of it, Gary's a doc, too... and none of Gary's patients can read his handwriting!ncdogdoc said:Let your kid do it, he is probably more computer literate already