Which is the best BBK upgrade if you plan to track your car?

I should also mention that I never had any problems with brake fade in the ~5K track miles I put onto the car before I had the brake ducts installed.

Litespeeds said:
I think I am going to go the route that you did with the brake cooling ducts and the Panther Plus pads. Do I still need the Dali brake deflectors if I am going to do the ducting?
Not with my setup. Since the splash shields are still there (other than the hole cut into them), the ducting routes air directly onto the rotor, whereas the deflectors would only direct it toward the general area of the hub (towards the shields) and not onto the rotors. So they wouldn't make much difference. Other setups may vary.

Hrant said:
Any pics, pretty please :wink:
Check your back issues of the NSX Driver magazine published by the NSX Club of America. A few years ago (I think it was in late 2003) I wrote a two-part article on how to maintain the NSX for track use, and photos appeared in the article.

nsxnut said:
Heat sheilds... What heat sheilds... They have been gone for some time now.
Be careful. Removing the splash shields allows more heat to reach the ball joints, which are right next to the hubs/rotors. If you want to remove the splash shields, John Vasos (of Acura of Brookfield, NSX track prep specialists) recommends cutting them off but leaving the section between the ball joints and the hubs/rotors.

nsxnut said:
I bought 3" hose..
The reason I went with 2.5 inch is that that seemed to be the largest diameter that could squeeze alongside the lower corners of the radiator. Otherwise you may find that you're stuck going underneath the core support and losing ground clearance (exposing them to damage from road debris or pavement irregularities).

ncdogdoc said:
Floating hat rotors and good pads/fluid.
I agree that two-piece rotors (with floating hats) are a good idea, but I don't think they will do anything about brake fade (which I have never experienced anyway). Rotors get exposed to a lot of heat during track use, and this heat is concentrated on the outer "ring" of the rotor, where the pads come into contact. With one-piece rotors, the outer ring wants to expand much faster than the inner hat, and this causes stress in the metal, which eventually results in the rotors cracking. Two-piece rotors allow for the differential expansion rates; not only is the inner hat a separate piece from the outer ring, but the hardware used to connect the two allows the connection to "flex" as needed. As a result, two-piece rotors are more resistant to cracking. I have found that one-piece front rotors generally last 4-6 track events before cracking, and two-piece front rotors generally last 8-12 track events before cracking (but they do eventually crack; at least, mine have).

ncdogdoc said:
My floating hats with a stock 92 setup ran 100 to 200 degrees cooler than a solid rear, so I upgraded to floating rears.
Rears? I've had absolutely no problems with the rear brakes! I've only installed ducting on the front brakes, and I've only used the two-piece rotors on the front brakes. I think I've only gone through about two sets of rear rotors in the 11K+ track miles of my NSX (one set did eventually crack, the other due to minimum thickness). I'm now on my 12th set of front rotors. (Also 24th set of front pads and 14th set of rear pads.)

ncdogdoc said:
Let your kid do it, he is probably more computer literate already
It's a good thing we don't have to worry about trying to read docjohn's handwriting! Although, come to think of it, Gary's a doc, too... and none of Gary's patients can read his handwriting! :D
 
|Adeel said:
There was a groupbuy recently in which those brakes were offered for couple of thousand $ less than Comptech price (I wasn't allowed to discuss the price offered ont he, got a PM with by the GP starter, so I can't say what the exact price was). So there are more vendors than Comptech alone.


Comptech price is $9900.00 but you can get 10% NSXCA discount or call Nate and ask for 15% off and you might get it thats $8415.00 for ther kit. If you were at Stockton Acura last July they were giving 20% off all Comptech parts.

Steve
 
Understudy said:
It appears that ScienceofSpeed also offers the "Indy" caliper too, so Comptech isn't the ONLY place: http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/braking_performance_parts/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/Brembo_Indy/

Although both are great vendors and I would have confidence buying from either. I didn't check the sets out completely as its too early in the morning for me to bother, but they appear to use the same major components. FWIW, I too have also heard from reliable sources that the Stoptech is pretty much an equal of the Brembo "Indy", but with even better balance.


That brake kit shown is a Comptech kit that they sell! SOS sell more AP I have been told.
Steve
 
SMGNSX said:
Comptech price is $9900.00 but you can get 10% NSXCA discount or call Nate and ask for 15% off and you might get it thats $8415.00 for ther kit. If you were at Stockton Acura last July they were giving 20% off all Comptech parts.
Steve

If I was Brembo I'd be slamming that $8400 bid all day long!
 
Brembo make few different calipers for different market. The street stuff, which you can buy directly from Brembo distributor, or race stuff that are not available through public, unless you are a pro race team.

For those who thinks the brembo indy caliper is expensive they should look into Alcon or similar real race products. Some of these calipers are in the north of $1500 range per caliper. And that is just the caliper not including mounting brackets, and other hardware and rotors. Some of these calipers even require special bits to drill. It is that hard of material. I remember, one of the caliper Comptech fabricate to fit one of their indy car require 3 bits to drill just one hole!

Before you knock them, try them first. If you can't tell the difference, most likely your skill is not there yet. In that case you probably don't need a big brake yet ;)
 
This thread is very interesting to me as I have just completed my first RACE weekend in HSR at Watkins Glen with my 92 NSX. I have 5" brake ducts going into slotted OEM sized front rotors and slotted non ducted rear rotors with no backing plates, Hawk Blue 9012 race pads, Motul 600 fluid and braided lines. Trust me these brakes FADEEEEEEEEEEEEE.....The organization puts me in Group 9, class C14 racing against late model 3.6 & 3.8 liter Porsche Carrera Cup race cars. I am wayyyy outclassed in horsepower and braking but the balance of the NSX is FAR superior and this allows me to run up on them in many areas of the track however after 2 hard laps my brakes start to go and I have to back off a little....I need better brakes before I run VIR in 8 weeks and I am going to do a little to try and acheive a litter more power.
 
VintageracerNYC said:
PS..I did get 2nd in class!!!!! great looking bronze medal on a red ribbon! yeah!!!

Sweet!! Congrats :cool:

BTW: Check with Gary Yates, he races at VIR frequently with his track rat, maybe he can give you some pointers about weight reduction and other ideas for your NSX.
 
Thanks 2slow but my car is already gutted...no interior, A/C, radio, trunk gutted, front and rear bumpers gutted, roll cage and fire system added weight but is required..I am going to remove the headlights this weekend and take out the motor assemblies to save even more weight
 
wow, impressive!! please post some pics of your car, 92 nsx beating late model 3.6/3.8 porsche, YES!!!

With these modification, you must have using the stoptech 2 pieces rotor? If so, then really there's nothing better but to upgrade to aftermarket BBK... if not, I strongly suggest you tryin them. At least with my limited skill, I had not burnt any of my fluid with the Stoptech aerorotors in HPDE... Same pads with same fluid (motul 600) always became pitch blk when i had the one piece rotor.
 
Thanks NSXDreamer but before I invest in OE sized two-piece rotors I would just as well upgrade to a BBK as in the enduros I will be doing the extra brake capacity will be greatly needed!
 
VintageracerNYC said:
Thanks NSXDreamer but before I invest in OE sized two-piece rotors I would just as well upgrade to a BBK as in the enduros I will be doing the extra brake capacity will be greatly needed!

True, but with a price tag of $500 shipped (or less), it worths a try before you dump upwards of 5k for a race worthy BBK... (I mean the ones that correctly proportioned and matched front and rear set)

and, I just wonder, after you invest the nice looking :tongue: BBK, wouldn't that move you up to the class and competing with some heavily modified "big boys"??
 
VintageracerNYC said:
Thanks NSXDreamer but before I invest in OE sized two-piece rotors I would just as well upgrade to a BBK as in the enduros I will be doing the extra brake capacity will be greatly needed!

Yep, and the extra life on the BBK pads should prove to be an advantage as well given that most pads for BBK calipers are much larger in surface area than the OEM sized ones so they should last longer.

The pads on my Stoptech BBK last about twice as long as the OEM sized ones for the fronts and probably 5 x 6 times longer than the OEM sized ones for the rears.

When it comes to racing, confidence == speed, so if the rules allow going with a good BBK sounds like the way to go :cool: Given that the P cars come from the factory with really good brakes you are just leveling the playing field :D
 
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