Which do you prefer for your NSX.
- Thread starter TURBO2GO
- Start date
Sure I need to get the CAD from the shop since I made some last minute revisions there. Will stl, ai, dxf/dwg or solidworks work for you?
slightly off topic,
Does any one know if a aftermarket setup is lighter than OEM?
Does any one know if a aftermarket setup is lighter than OEM?
Going off some pretty rough numbers here:
OEM head unit - not sure how much this weighs but it's pretty heavy, I'm assuming a standard single DIN unit would be lighter, or you could save even more weight by shaving it all together and directly connecting your iphone/ipod/whatever to the source like I believe some people are doing
Door speakers - If you keep the replacement woofer 4" like Turbo is suggesting there are definitely some drivers that are a good deal lighter than the OEM (like the Aura/Dayton). Just guessing off the top of my head hear since I've only felt them in my hands but not actually weighed OEM but perhaps you could lose about a pound per door? If you go the other route of creating a wood/plastic baffle and pairing it with a 6.5" driver and dynamat I have a hard time imagining how you wouldn't be increasing weight by a good amount. Tweeters are pretty light and I'd imagine a crossover weighing a similar amount to the OEM Bose amp so you might be able to make those additions and break even in the door.
Amplifier - The Bose amps weigh very little; they're somewhere around 3x4" and have essentially no heatsinks which is where the majority of the amplifier weight comes from. All 3 might add up to around a pound, my Alpine amp which is on the small side (50Wx4) is 6 pounds and the higher end more powerful ones are more towards 9+ pounds. Someone could get real creative here by removing the amplifier's lightweight PCB and connecting the mosfets to the chassis for some big weight reduction, it is aluminum after all... :biggrin:
Cabling - OEM cabling is a thin gauge and you're probably not going to be removing much if any of it so there's no weight reduction there. I never measured my wiring but the amplifier wiring kit I bought weighed probably around 1-2lbs before being cut down and installed in the car (I used about half of it). The 4 gauge wire is really heavy stuff. If you mounted the amp in the passenger footwell you'd have the shortest run for power (to the front battery terminals) and the shortest run for signal cables if tapping into the OEM head unit. The trunk would be the opposite I'd imagine with signal cables running nearly the length of the car and speaker wire cables running that length back.
Tossing out the OEM center driver and subwoofer will get you around 5 lbs back so that with the right combination of components you should be able to shave just a tad bit of weight or break even. If an aftermarket sub enters the picture forget it.
OEM head unit - not sure how much this weighs but it's pretty heavy, I'm assuming a standard single DIN unit would be lighter, or you could save even more weight by shaving it all together and directly connecting your iphone/ipod/whatever to the source like I believe some people are doing
Door speakers - If you keep the replacement woofer 4" like Turbo is suggesting there are definitely some drivers that are a good deal lighter than the OEM (like the Aura/Dayton). Just guessing off the top of my head hear since I've only felt them in my hands but not actually weighed OEM but perhaps you could lose about a pound per door? If you go the other route of creating a wood/plastic baffle and pairing it with a 6.5" driver and dynamat I have a hard time imagining how you wouldn't be increasing weight by a good amount. Tweeters are pretty light and I'd imagine a crossover weighing a similar amount to the OEM Bose amp so you might be able to make those additions and break even in the door.
Amplifier - The Bose amps weigh very little; they're somewhere around 3x4" and have essentially no heatsinks which is where the majority of the amplifier weight comes from. All 3 might add up to around a pound, my Alpine amp which is on the small side (50Wx4) is 6 pounds and the higher end more powerful ones are more towards 9+ pounds. Someone could get real creative here by removing the amplifier's lightweight PCB and connecting the mosfets to the chassis for some big weight reduction, it is aluminum after all... :biggrin:
Cabling - OEM cabling is a thin gauge and you're probably not going to be removing much if any of it so there's no weight reduction there. I never measured my wiring but the amplifier wiring kit I bought weighed probably around 1-2lbs before being cut down and installed in the car (I used about half of it). The 4 gauge wire is really heavy stuff. If you mounted the amp in the passenger footwell you'd have the shortest run for power (to the front battery terminals) and the shortest run for signal cables if tapping into the OEM head unit. The trunk would be the opposite I'd imagine with signal cables running nearly the length of the car and speaker wire cables running that length back.
Tossing out the OEM center driver and subwoofer will get you around 5 lbs back so that with the right combination of components you should be able to shave just a tad bit of weight or break even. If an aftermarket sub enters the picture forget it.
^^^
For the audio experts, is it good to have a powered sub like that?
Meaning, is it good for the electrical components inside on the circuit boards to rattle like that when the bass hits?
I mean we're all worried about the electrical connections being loose over time (like the main relay and having to resolder it), but wouldn't the bass just speed up the process?
For the audio experts, is it good to have a powered sub like that?
Meaning, is it good for the electrical components inside on the circuit boards to rattle like that when the bass hits?
I mean we're all worried about the electrical connections being loose over time (like the main relay and having to resolder it), but wouldn't the bass just speed up the process?
That's an interesting unit, for a number of reasons. One, its size ie very close to the OEM sub box. Two, it as an audio sensing turn on. Three, there is a version of identical size that has a built in amplifier for two more channels. Four, the heat sink is the enclosure and large, so it should present less of a problem under the carpet. Five, it's not that expensive. Six, its Focal, not junk. Theoretically this unit all on its own wired to a set of door speakers might do the trick.
Who wants to buy one first? LOL I've already got a room full of gear.
Who wants to buy one first? LOL I've already got a room full of gear.
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- 11 January 2006
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I have the house brand crutchfield sound ordnance one in my Nsx right now (search my build thread for details), very similar to the focal unit, but at the time the focal unit was regular price ($500) so I opted for the cheaper version instead. I am 100% happy with my choice, adds just the right amount of bass with still having functional passenger leg room... People need to be realistic of the goals for a subwoofer inside an nsx cabin.... The bass will be nothing compared to a regular sedan with a normal trunk where you could put a ported enclosure and 12" subs pushing 1000 watts rms...
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Is this in response to the unit that I am using? My unit has a built in amp and does not require anything extra, similar dimensions/look to the focal unit (I think mine is 120 watts rms though vs the focal 75)
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Oic, the focal unit at crutchfield for only $299 is not the 2.1 version you are talking about. I can't really find anything on the 2.1 version, theres one listed on ebay for I think $430 in another country though lol. I have a 4 channel amp installed in my trunk to power my mids/highs... JL audio makes some very small amps that shouldn't take up much room in the cabin under a seat if the decks amp isn't good enough for your preferences.
XD series, the smallest one is less than 7" x 7" x 2"
Yes I am using a 6 channel version of that in my own system. The nice thing about the JLs is that they have remote volume. Meaning you don't need to use the headphone jack of your portable device. You can use the fixed line out that also charges the phone. So instead of plugging 2 wires into the phone, you just do one. Besides that they are outstanding amps. Light too....
Remove your stock bose sub and bracket and then replace with this. it is only 3" deep so you have plenty of leg/foot room still and its only $300 with built in amp
Reviews of people that have tried them don't look that good. (Circuit boards don't hold up and they are not very loud) I would be afraid the heat produced under the carpet getting trapped and cooking this thing. Especially if they are getting toasted when they are out in the open.
Very interesting. It also has a remote volume knob too. I'm looking to use this with my phone as the audio source signal. I need to read up more about it. I don't care much for volume so a full sound is all i need.
Here's a link to the product. Where would you guys buy this? Crutchfield is historically very expensive.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-06cWIwPWPQV/p_091IBUS20/Focal-Integration-IBus-20.html
Here's a link to the product. Where would you guys buy this? Crutchfield is historically very expensive.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-06cWIwPWPQV/p_091IBUS20/Focal-Integration-IBus-20.html
Remove your stock bose sub and bracket and then replace with this. it is only 3" deep so you have plenty of leg/foot room still and its only $300 with built in amp
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