Nevermind.... Good luck with whatever you're trying to accomplish.
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Which do you prefer for your NSX.
- Thread starter TURBO2GO
- Start date
I might be able to do both actually. Can someone tell me what there is behind a sub on cars with no EPS module? Did they push out the subwoofer housing for the EPS unit once power steering came on?
Also, you guys with floor sub boxes... How are you securing your EPS? It looks pretty jammed up above, inside the dash. Is the EPS just kinda hanging loose there?
Also, you guys with floor sub boxes... How are you securing your EPS? It looks pretty jammed up above, inside the dash. Is the EPS just kinda hanging loose there?
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well i like the bazooka option alot, but i currently have my custom cupholders there and i cant loose them. So I am really curious to hear what the updated driver in the current sub box will do. im pretty tall 6-3" and my wife is 5-11" so any extra leg room is nice too have as well. I guess depending on the overall diameter of the sub tube, I may be able to move the cupholders in front of the tube.
eddy
eddy
3.5"
Be interested in seeing the Bazooka option as I've never seen it done on the NSX. I'm also curious to see how 3" drivers will do with the low bass frequencies... 3" drivers are typically classified as "mid-range", but I think it should work moderately well with the small cabin a properly tuned tube..
I put the EPS module underneath the glove box, above the plastic panel. Secured with ALOT of Velcro, secure enough that I cant get it off so it is now permanent. Actually sold my V3 sub and made a custom cabinet which holds an 8 inch Earthquake drive which provides plenty of low end (crossed over at 60 Hz) and I also have an "aperiodic" box using the Focal K2 Midbass mounted on 3/4" MDF which had been glued to the factory cabinet (Disassembled the factory cabinet and removed the front) and Focal tweeter in the door. Thought about custom molded mounts in the front pillars so I didn't have to cut into the door panels but maybe when and if I get the car reupholsered.
I am using an Xtant X603 amplifier mounted in the trunk where the tool kit was located. Fits flat in the space and no issues with heat even with luggage piled on top of it and playing for over 12 hours. Running wiring was no big deal and I have no hum despite the long run of interconnects. Previously had mounted a Soundstream Picasso (the old Class A amp) behind the drivers seat with a JL Audio mono sub amp but lost too much travel behind the seat and it was too obvious since I leave my T-Top off frequently.
If you haven't made a decision about an amplifier, the McIntosh amplifiers sound very nice but are kinda big. I replaced an Xtant X604 amplifier in my other car which has a Morel / Rainbow / Focal setup and the McIntosh was marked improvement even in a convertible.
Lastly, Focal made a 4" very long throw woofer, marketed as a subwoofer which has decent extension (I have them in the doors of my other car). Great idea on the bass tubes but you may be able to mount them vertically in the passenger footwell and although they wouldn't fire directly into the cabinet, they could be positioned to not fire into the carpet. Are the sub cabinets going to be sealed? aperiodic?
When did you do the aperiodic custom door enclosure using the back half of the box? That was exactly what I did, I played around with different dampers but ultimately, I did get the flattest response with no damper. I am just stunned that someone else did this very strange thing that is not normally done with speakers of this size. Do you have any pictures?
Anyway I went away from that altogether because I did not like the angle and depth at which the drivers sit. What I have now is much better. I don't want to start repeating what I have already posted on my other thread. I do believe an 8" is more appropriate for a sub box in the floor than a 10. IMO these should have been designed around 8's.
You can't make an aperiodic enclosure for a bass tube. Aperiodic requires a very large baffle.... A tube has none.
Also on the amps, I don't like using anything that is not class D. IMO it is too much of a tax on this car's electrical system. Especially a car with a supercharger as they use smaller Honda prelude alternators rated at 30a less current. Efficiency is very key to me.
Anyway I went away from that altogether because I did not like the angle and depth at which the drivers sit. What I have now is much better. I don't want to start repeating what I have already posted on my other thread. I do believe an 8" is more appropriate for a sub box in the floor than a 10. IMO these should have been designed around 8's.
You can't make an aperiodic enclosure for a bass tube. Aperiodic requires a very large baffle.... A tube has none.
Also on the amps, I don't like using anything that is not class D. IMO it is too much of a tax on this car's electrical system. Especially a car with a supercharger as they use smaller Honda prelude alternators rated at 30a less current. Efficiency is very key to me.
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I did mine around 6 years ago? I built out the front so my driver actually sits underneath the "grill". I had to do alot of shaping to actually make it fit but this allowed slightly more volume. Unfortunately, no pictures
I can definitely understand about using the more efficient because of alternator drain but I haven't had any issues with the stock alternator, just don't need that much power with the small car.
In regards to the subs, by aperiodic, I would assume that you would baffle the back and then put in the vent. The overall small volume of the tube may make the vent unfeasible but one method would be to cut a small piece of MDF which would be the back of the tube. Drill a small hole through the MDF, maybe 1-2" diameter and then epoxy either something like canvas which would add resistance or wire mesh to the inside of the MDF. Glue the MDF to the tube, add fill to the tube and mount the driver. You could then tune the vent by stuffing the hole with fiberglass. Just a thought.
I can definitely understand about using the more efficient because of alternator drain but I haven't had any issues with the stock alternator, just don't need that much power with the small car.
In regards to the subs, by aperiodic, I would assume that you would baffle the back and then put in the vent. The overall small volume of the tube may make the vent unfeasible but one method would be to cut a small piece of MDF which would be the back of the tube. Drill a small hole through the MDF, maybe 1-2" diameter and then epoxy either something like canvas which would add resistance or wire mesh to the inside of the MDF. Glue the MDF to the tube, add fill to the tube and mount the driver. You could then tune the vent by stuffing the hole with fiberglass. Just a thought.
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Let me explain my interest a bit more clearly...
I am 100% on board with the part of the idea that says, reclaim the passenger footwell under-carpet space from the OEM sub and use it as a place to mount "boxes" (amps/processors/carputers/whatever)... especially if you say there is plenty of aluminum down there to carry heat away.
I can imagine a couple of places besides the footwell to mount the amp... The bazooka tubes are a cool idea but if they don't end up in existence, oh well. The fundamental innovation here is the discovery of a new viable amp mounting location.
Plus, if the bass from the high-excursion 4" drivers is already better than the OEM sub, maybe we don't need a sub at all.
I am 100% on board with the part of the idea that says, reclaim the passenger footwell under-carpet space from the OEM sub and use it as a place to mount "boxes" (amps/processors/carputers/whatever)... especially if you say there is plenty of aluminum down there to carry heat away.
I can imagine a couple of places besides the footwell to mount the amp... The bazooka tubes are a cool idea but if they don't end up in existence, oh well. The fundamental innovation here is the discovery of a new viable amp mounting location.
Plus, if the bass from the high-excursion 4" drivers is already better than the OEM sub, maybe we don't need a sub at all.
Not really a port since the vent is not tuned like a port. This is just making your own variovent
Well I am going to do a full in-car test soon. So far most of my testing has been in my room. And that's been impressive so I imagine in a car it will be more bass. The cool thing about the mini bass tubes is that it is quickly removable, you can use one, or two, or none. It depends on what you want.
The vote is so split here I am going to work on both options. This is all theory right now anyway, I could make some and they may sound like shit and that will be the end of that.
Right now I am really close to carving up a brand new woofer's metal frame to make it smaller to try in the factory sub box. The problem there is also depth... There is minimal depth even for a woofer magnet. This is a non-issue with the bass tubes. I can also carefully use the car's chassis to "load" the small woofers for more output using close proximity to the tunnel and to the door sill.
Yes, they are 3-4" woofers, but for those wondering how that will possibly make any bass don't forget the factory system is using a 3.5" Bose driver. It's not the highest excursion thing... I will have more info shortly in my other thread as soon as more drivers arrive.
The vote is so split here I am going to work on both options. This is all theory right now anyway, I could make some and they may sound like shit and that will be the end of that.
Right now I am really close to carving up a brand new woofer's metal frame to make it smaller to try in the factory sub box. The problem there is also depth... There is minimal depth even for a woofer magnet. This is a non-issue with the bass tubes. I can also carefully use the car's chassis to "load" the small woofers for more output using close proximity to the tunnel and to the door sill.
Yes, they are 3-4" woofers, but for those wondering how that will possibly make any bass don't forget the factory system is using a 3.5" Bose driver. It's not the highest excursion thing... I will have more info shortly in my other thread as soon as more drivers arrive.
I'll have to paint little nsx pictures on that to make it look good. LOL
Thanks for the pic, but your setup loses all sorts of room. My tubes are less than 1/2 the diameter of the smallest bazooka tube. When they go in front of the seats you barely even see them. Then that allows amps to go under the front carpet. The tubes also fit behind the seat with the seat ALL THE WAY BACK. There is no loss of space anywhere. Not at the footwell, not behind the seat, and not in the trunk.
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Well show them to us already!!
Do the bass tubes create a "kick" that is felt in the seat? They may not only produce low frequencies but I'm thinking something like it might create the old "Aura Bass-Shakers" effect? Is this so?
Did you ever finish the tubes?
Yes, and they sound great, but the finish is rough. I am working on getting a better finish on them and some sort of way to mount them.
damn.. i voted not realizing the date when this was first created.
I prefer the new woofer in the stock enclosure simply because that's what i'd like to do and because i'm hoping you have a subwoofer recommendation for me
I like where my fire extinguisher is and my gf already complains it's hard to get into the NSX because she always ends up stepping on it.
I prefer the new woofer in the stock enclosure simply because that's what i'd like to do and because i'm hoping you have a subwoofer recommendation for me
I like where my fire extinguisher is and my gf already complains it's hard to get into the NSX because she always ends up stepping on it.
Yes, they do in fact.
I realize you asked this question a long time ago but just stumbled across the thread and figured I'd post incase you hadn't already found the answer.
I realize this isn't a completely clear shot of what the footwell looks like (unfortunately I didn't take any of that) but you can see behind/around the custom mount decently
here's the sub bracket (might give some clues?)
here's the back of the sub
If you do decide to put an amp down there it's pretty constrained if you want to have it lean almost right against the back chassis firewall plane. You'd have a bit more room if you mounted on the passenger footwell plane (subwoofer aluminum cover plate) because it'd better clear the wheel well. I can always email you full resolution pics if that'd help you see things better, just let me know.
Would ventilation be adequate for a class AB amp down there though?
shawn110975
Suspended
when I hear people talk about tubes, I think of the 90's and driving around in a 5.0 mustang LOL
no tubes for me thanks I had enough in the 90's
no tubes for me thanks I had enough in the 90's
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