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- 2 May 2019
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Has anyone ever weighed the 5 speed and the 6 speed transmissions?
Unofficial weight reduction thread
- Thread starter nsxsupra
- Start date
Not necessarily true. Although I do drive my car a lot there are times where I leave the car sitting for a week and it still starts up just fine. If you drive it at least once a week a Shorai works. If you going longer than that then yes don't get a Shorai. and I mean who wouldn't want the excuse of driving the NSX at least once a week
lol
Not necessarily true. Although I do drive my car a lot there are times where I leave the car sitting for a week and it still starts up just fine. If you drive it at least once a week a Shorai works. If you going longer than that then yes don't get a Shorai. and I mean who wouldn't want the excuse of driving the NSX at least once a week
I don't drive mine weekly or use a tender. My shorai is relatively old and works great. I always install a quick release battery cutoff switch. If I let it sit, I simply just hit the cutoff switch. There is no negative drawbacks for me with this, doesn't change my radio stuff or any long term fuel trim curves since I'm running a standalone computer.
I need to find my sheet from Toledo Scale but I weighed in at 2745 lbs a few years ago when I had to get mine weighed for Hawaii DMV
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A/C and its components and most lines weigh ~42lbs (~19kg). Not included is the longest line (forget what it’s called) but I doubt it’s more than 2lbs.
My car in its lightest configuration (Taitec GT-009 exhaust, no passenger seat) with a full tank of gas is now ~2650lbs (~1202kg).
My car in its lightest configuration (Taitec GT-009 exhaust, no passenger seat) with a full tank of gas is now ~2650lbs (~1202kg).
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I am back in another NSX. It has been a week. This is what I have done so far. The weight data should be pretty dead on accurate, anything else I miss or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I will go back and read all the post on this thread to see if I miss anything. Because I already have other really high power cars, I don't want a lot of power for the NSX. But for sure am looking at options of adding 100hp via FI.
At current stage, it is already a huge difference compare to when I took delivery of bone stock 03 NSX. The car simply does everything better with the weight removed and tiny power gain. It really is what made this car so special.
Currently I focus on what is most efficient first then move onto more difficult ones:
Weight reduction done so far:
Spare tires -29.4lbs
Spare tires mounting bracket -2.45lbs
Air compressor + Jack -9lbs
Engine Cover -25.5lbs
Windshield wiper and motors -20lbs
Windshield wiper fluid ~3lbs (extracted more than 2 large drink size)
Total Free=-98.4lbs
Exhaust 27-44= -17lbs (Pride V2, did not go Titanium mainly due to turbo is possibility)
Battery 4.8-43= -37.2lbs (Shorai Lithium Ion battery)
Pride High Flow Cats 12-22= -10lbs
Total so far: -162.6lbs
Others weight reduction being considered:
Volk Racing CE28N
17x7.5": 13.8 lbs
17x9.0": 14.8 lbs
Yokohama Advan A052 215/40R/17 19lbs vs oem Neova AD08R 21lbs
Yokohama Advan A052255/40R17 23lbs vs oem Neova AD08R 27lbs
OEM 02~05 wheel weight:
17x7 17.35 lbs
17x9 20lbs
3.55+5.20=8.75 x2=17.5lbs total weight saving from CE28N
Horse power/Weight formula: (old weight)/new power to weight ratio
At current stage, it is already a huge difference compare to when I took delivery of bone stock 03 NSX. The car simply does everything better with the weight removed and tiny power gain. It really is what made this car so special.
Currently I focus on what is most efficient first then move onto more difficult ones:
Weight reduction done so far:
Spare tires -29.4lbs
Spare tires mounting bracket -2.45lbs
Air compressor + Jack -9lbs
Engine Cover -25.5lbs
Windshield wiper and motors -20lbs
Windshield wiper fluid ~3lbs (extracted more than 2 large drink size)
Total Free=-98.4lbs
Exhaust 27-44= -17lbs (Pride V2, did not go Titanium mainly due to turbo is possibility)
Battery 4.8-43= -37.2lbs (Shorai Lithium Ion battery)
Pride High Flow Cats 12-22= -10lbs
Total so far: -162.6lbs
Others weight reduction being considered:
Volk Racing CE28N
17x7.5": 13.8 lbs
17x9.0": 14.8 lbs
Yokohama Advan A052 215/40R/17 19lbs vs oem Neova AD08R 21lbs
Yokohama Advan A052255/40R17 23lbs vs oem Neova AD08R 27lbs
OEM 02~05 wheel weight:
17x7 17.35 lbs
17x9 20lbs
3.55+5.20=8.75 x2=17.5lbs total weight saving from CE28N
Horse power/Weight formula: (old weight)/new power to weight ratio
Attachments
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[MENTION=11309]nsxsupra[/MENTION] - replacement of front bumper beam is big. You already have an alum rear beam so not such a big savings there. Though there are CF versions made of both.
Seats is another one.
Seats is another one.
No, don't turbo it.....
Agree...and he should get that Ti muffler!
This is one of my all time favorite threads on Prime. By my own chart, I'm close to 2,800. I'll post up a full accounting once the project is done.
Should be in the 2250-2300lb range imo when done
k24 turbo with a DSG transmission
https://www.instagram.com/p/CY9QlOgLqoR/?utm_medium=copy_link
k24 turbo with a DSG transmission
https://www.instagram.com/p/CY9QlOgLqoR/?utm_medium=copy_link
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I did it too and the manual is fine to me- even in the parking lot with the NSX-R diff.
Where did you get your manual rack? How much did you pay?
Trying to decide if I should sell will my perfectly functional EPS.
I’ve collected so much parts over the years and it’s one less thing I need on the shelf.
Exchanged it for my non-working EPS from NSX Rack Repair.
Owner of a 92 since 93, 25k miles with 5 track days at mid-ohio. A cold dead hands car for me. My goal is to make it as simple as my go-kart from my youth. Don't have emissions test. Still have AC. My milling machine loves to carve on NSX parts and i have the engineering background to do it safely. Feel free to ask for clarifications. Here is my current status: All parts removed were carefully weighed and subtracted from OE 3010.
| ITEM | SAVINGS IN LBS | |
| SPARE TIRE | 31 | |
| JACK | 4 | |
| TIRE COMPRESSOR | 3.25 | |
| R STEERING WHEEL CONVERSION | 10.2 | |
| CF REAR BUMPER BEAM REPLACEMENT | 17.8 | |
| CF FRONT BUMPER BEAM REPLACEMENT | 15.4 | |
| CRUISE CONTROL REMOVAL | 4.5 | |
| TCS REMOVAL | 3.2 | |
| SRS REMOVAL | 5.91 | |
| SRS WIRE HARNESS | 1.44 | |
| FRONT LICENSE PLATE FRAME DELETE | 0.7 | |
| WINDSHIELD WASHER TANK DELETE | 1.4 | |
| WINDSHIELD WIPER ASSEMBLY DELETE | 15.3 | |
| TIRE CRADLE DELETE | 2.5 | |
| ODESSY 925 BATTERY | 7.1 | |
| FABRICATED BATTERY MOUNT REPLACEMENT | 1 | |
| HEADER REPLACEMENT (COMPTECH) | 10 | |
| CAT REMOVAL | 17 | |
| EXHAUST REPLACEMENT (HKS)????? | 15 | |
| R PARTITION WINDOW | 4.2 | |
| ENGINE COMPARTMENT FAN REMOVAL | 2.4 | |
| TCS STEP MOTOR REMOVAL | 1.25 | |
| ENGINE/TRANNY REMOVAL BRACKETS | 0.72 | |
| FIREWALL SOUND INSULATION | 10.25 | |
| CF SIDE VENT REPLACEMENT | 4.2 | |
| HEADLIGHT SKELETONIZATION | 2.3 | |
| ABS LATE MODEL CONVERSION | 14.5 | |
| ABS CUSTOM BRACKET | 2 | |
| ECU BRACKET SKELETONIZATION | 1.6 | |
| POWER ANTENNA REMOVAL | 2.1 | |
| FIREWALL COVER PANEL REPLACEMENT FOR MORE SOUND TRANSMISSION | 0.5 | |
| CF ENGINE COVER REPLACEMENT-PERSONAL DESIGN | 7 | |
| COMPTECH CF INTAKE SNOUT | 1 | |
| BRAKE SPLASH SHIELDS | 3.2 | |
| FRONT A-ARM SPLASH DEFLECTORS | 0.5 | |
| CARPET MATS (MAY NOT BE VALID ? | 6.1 | |
| TOE LINKS | ADD .7 | |
| MISC WIRING | 0.7 | |
| ENGINE HATCH AJAR SWITCH REMOVAL | 0.5 | |
| HOOD AJAR SWITCH REMOVAL & LATCH MODS | 0.3 | |
| CIGARETTE LIGHTER REMOVAL | 0.25 | |
| CD PLAYER DELETE | 10 | |
| AUDIO SYSTEM DELETION | 19.8 | |
| SKELOTONIZE SUB COVER | 0.23 | |
| SKELOTONIZE KNEE BOLSTER UNDERCOVER | 0.55 | |
| IMOBILIZE STEERING COLUMN TELESCOPING | 0.19 | |
| SKELOTONIZE STEERING COLUMN LOWER COVER MOUNT | 0.4 | |
| SKELOTONIZE STEERING COLUMN LOWER COVER | 0.59 | |
| HATCH STRUT REMOVAL | 1.2 | |
| RECARO CARBON FIBER SEAT CONVERSION | 28 | |
| O.E. 3010 LBS MINUS 249.53 = CALCULATED WEIGHT | 2717.5 | |
That break down really shows how all the small things really add up. Everything 2lb and under came to 23 lb total. Pretty cool to see it like this.
Nice @TANTO395 !
Figure I should add my info now that the S-zero project is complete. Only thing yet to install is the rear partition glass. The charts are from when I thought I would build the car in stages, but of course I ended up doing it all at once.
Should be sitting right around 2,650 lbs/1,200 kg. For comparison, the real S-Zero is 1,270 kg. I think the -70kg makes up for having a 3.0 instead of a 3.2.
Figure I should add my info now that the S-zero project is complete. Only thing yet to install is the rear partition glass. The charts are from when I thought I would build the car in stages, but of course I ended up doing it all at once.
Should be sitting right around 2,650 lbs/1,200 kg. For comparison, the real S-Zero is 1,270 kg. I think the -70kg makes up for having a 3.0 instead of a 3.2.
| R STEERING WHEEL CONVERSION | 10.2 |
Wow 10lbs saved with this? Airbag deleted, cruise control deleted, what else?
10.3 by my scale. Steering wheel, airbag and cable reel.
Those spreadsheets are fantastic. One thing maybe not accounted for in there, though, is the damper/spring weight. I see Honcho has 59lbs for the factory suspension.
My old tein RAs were 43.5lbs all in (front 12.25lb each, rear 9.5lb each) and the MCS/swift setup is 26.4lbs total (6.6lb each). Honcho, your fronts are probably lighter with the 6” springs. 32lb savings in one go, not bad.
(Edit: nvm, I see the mcs on Honchos list now. And I fixed my dumb math)
My old tein RAs were 43.5lbs all in (front 12.25lb each, rear 9.5lb each) and the MCS/swift setup is 26.4lbs total (6.6lb each). Honcho, your fronts are probably lighter with the 6” springs. 32lb savings in one go, not bad.
(Edit: nvm, I see the mcs on Honchos list now. And I fixed my dumb math)
Wow! just amazing guys. My goal is 2800lbs
Hood prop rod support replacement to save 1 lb for ~free.
Since you seldom raise the front bonnet, here's a replacement option that weighs 9 g, or 0.02 lb, to give you back the functionality when you need it. Just loop it around a button on the rear glass and then around the hood striker. Additional advantage of not having the prop rod in the way if you're working in front. Sure it looks dorky, but rarely used & you can leave that pound at home.
2 mm Dyneema (UHMWPE); probably anything would do. I strung it in yellow to illustrate for the picture, & I actually like it better. Switch to 1.1 mm Dyneema to save another 50% and get to 0.01 lb! Use bowline or any other non-tightening knots. Store in a tiny ziplock to keep it tidy.
Guessing many have deleted their front hood prop to save the pound. Some have switched to a CF hood prop, but that's putting 1/2 of the weight back, & not cheap.
Since you seldom raise the front bonnet, here's a replacement option that weighs 9 g, or 0.02 lb, to give you back the functionality when you need it. Just loop it around a button on the rear glass and then around the hood striker. Additional advantage of not having the prop rod in the way if you're working in front. Sure it looks dorky, but rarely used & you can leave that pound at home.
2 mm Dyneema (UHMWPE); probably anything would do. I strung it in yellow to illustrate for the picture, & I actually like it better. Switch to 1.1 mm Dyneema to save another 50% and get to 0.01 lb! Use bowline or any other non-tightening knots. Store in a tiny ziplock to keep it tidy.
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