Ultimate Hybrid NSX Project
- Thread starter LS7NSX
- Start date
If you click on the pic with your phone does it not enlarge
It does but it exceeds an iphone screen size and when you try to move it, it just disappears.
While I'm not sure you're request rises to the status of crisis, the truth is I simply don't remember how.....I presume I need to post my library to photobucket (or similar) first?
Thanks,....I take that as a compliment!
Actually I probably couldn't work FOR anyone......BUT, I wouldn't mind heading up a "skunkworks" funded by Penske or Ganassi, etc.
I truly spend a lot of time RE-engineering aspects of this project, when I thought my 1st design was pretty cool!.......case in point; the rear CM suspension sub-frame is currently in its THIRD design configuration, BUT I just figured out a VERY cool adjustable pickup point for the rear toe-links, SO it's coming back out for modification.....also discovered one of the innocent-looking "spuds" that attach the whole assy to the frame is in the way of the axle trajectory as the rear control arms move up & down thru their full range of motion! DANG!....some of this stuff is impossible to see in advance from just 2-dimensional drawings!
CAD?......WHAT'S THAT?
- Joined
- 2 June 2006
- Messages
- 769
I may be able to lend assistance in doing some CAD work for ya and getting you the files ready for CNC if you need them..Wont charge ya either(CNC programmer/machinist/mechanic/). Helped make a custom supercharger shaft once for a guy. I am totally going to plan a vacation when you get this thing done to see it race man. Great work as always!
WOW!......i will definitely take you up on your offer....I have a couple of very "interesting" axle components to fab (300M)....will need to be visually "rotatable" BEFORE CNC.....maybe you can PM me your phone & email info?
THANKS for your offer!
Enhanced tire clearance
These pics are with suspension in full compression (earlier pics at post 246 were @ static ride height).....just to be SURE I don't encounter ANY rubbing! I purposely am testing with the largest diameter tire (of 2 alternates) ......it's 31" tall!
I was pleased with the "first cut".....but if you look real closely, you will see some purple marker where I intend to remove just a little more wheel well. The final contour will have more curvature than I initially anticipated, so I'm forming the "skin" out of .080" instead of .090"......gonna be a hammer-weld job....think I'll bead roll it just for yuks!
These pics are with suspension in full compression (earlier pics at post 246 were @ static ride height).....just to be SURE I don't encounter ANY rubbing! I purposely am testing with the largest diameter tire (of 2 alternates) ......it's 31" tall!
I was pleased with the "first cut".....but if you look real closely, you will see some purple marker where I intend to remove just a little more wheel well. The final contour will have more curvature than I initially anticipated, so I'm forming the "skin" out of .080" instead of .090"......gonna be a hammer-weld job....think I'll bead roll it just for yuks!
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I admire the time and effort and checking in this build. Good check on the full compression, that is a worry saver.
Race Technology Meet Cup Holder!
You have to picture this recessed into the CF tunnel to really appreciate the race-inspired utility & durability! I'm not sure what the rules packages say about glass though......might have to "disguise" the bottle with an Igloo surround, haha!
You have to picture this recessed into the CF tunnel to really appreciate the race-inspired utility & durability! I'm not sure what the rules packages say about glass though......might have to "disguise" the bottle with an Igloo surround, haha!
ALMOST finished with suspension!
Yes, I now am finishing rear upper control arm version 3.0! (Needed to allow more total travel than the 4" limit of original design!). While my TIG guy finishes weld-up, I decided to put my "cypherin hat" on & design an adjustable pivot center for my rear toe links.
From paper drawings to water-jetting the Moly to putting an extremely slight break (about a .010" kiss in a press brake) in the gussets, to drilling & sleeving the aluminum buttons to rounding off the corners on the serrated steel slugs to final weld-up.......about 3 weeks & a couple hundred $ in gas, running the pieces around to my various "jobbers"!
The 1st pic shows how I used a foamcore template to determine the correct position for pivot center. The line running along the left side represents the plane that intersects the upper & lower control arm pivot centers (I literally taped piano wire to the bolt centers to "trace" my line). Notice that the final welded bracket welds have NOT been dressed down!
Stay Tuned.....I'm SO close to having it on the ground.....then final axle install & fabricate the stainless headers.......and then the HARD part: making it all work, haha!
Yes, I now am finishing rear upper control arm version 3.0! (Needed to allow more total travel than the 4" limit of original design!). While my TIG guy finishes weld-up, I decided to put my "cypherin hat" on & design an adjustable pivot center for my rear toe links.
From paper drawings to water-jetting the Moly to putting an extremely slight break (about a .010" kiss in a press brake) in the gussets, to drilling & sleeving the aluminum buttons to rounding off the corners on the serrated steel slugs to final weld-up.......about 3 weeks & a couple hundred $ in gas, running the pieces around to my various "jobbers"!
The 1st pic shows how I used a foamcore template to determine the correct position for pivot center. The line running along the left side represents the plane that intersects the upper & lower control arm pivot centers (I literally taped piano wire to the bolt centers to "trace" my line). Notice that the final welded bracket welds have NOT been dressed down!
Stay Tuned.....I'm SO close to having it on the ground.....then final axle install & fabricate the stainless headers.......and then the HARD part: making it all work, haha!
FINISHED Fuel Cell Surrounds
I spent an afternoon drilling, tapping & precision-countersinking (micro-stop cutter) 42 holes.....just so I could be sure the bottom covers to my fuel cell "chambers" were structurally sound enough for any serious mishap!
I epoxied the aluminum bar stock to the "lip" that I had fabbed into the sheet metal.....so I had something to screw into that didn't invade cavity.....the killer epoxy for ANYTHING aluminum is from Loctite....it is the only epoxy certified for FAA repair stations (like if your 737 loses some skin in BFE!)
I spent an afternoon drilling, tapping & precision-countersinking (micro-stop cutter) 42 holes.....just so I could be sure the bottom covers to my fuel cell "chambers" were structurally sound enough for any serious mishap!
I epoxied the aluminum bar stock to the "lip" that I had fabbed into the sheet metal.....so I had something to screw into that didn't invade cavity.....the killer epoxy for ANYTHING aluminum is from Loctite....it is the only epoxy certified for FAA repair stations (like if your 737 loses some skin in BFE!)
Latest Suspension Progress
Recently I posted a pic of me solving rear tire clearance issues by cutting off parts of the rear chassis. NOW I have finished those off with hand formed .065" 6061 aluminum for improved rigidity & aesthitics
The suspension design & fab has taken such a ridiculous amount of time that I decided to fab Version 2.0 of the rear shock rockers.....so I would have more adjustability in the ARB blades pushrod ratios (kinda shooting in the dark on total deflection per unit of suspension travel)
Also, I discovered that my original design for the rear upper control arms wasn't giving me adequate suspension travel (without monoball bind), I just finished Version 3.0 on that! The arm needs to be so short (because the NSX chassis is WIDE) that even a high-misalignment monoball wouldn't work.....hence the giant heim end!
Problem solved!.....now I have a total of 5 1/2" of rear suspension travel (2 1/2" of compression & 3" of droop), with no bind! The new control arms look a little funny because the wheels have such a huge inboard offset that I was having clearance issues with the upper inside edge of the wheel in "full-droop" position.
So while all these suspension pieces were getting fabbed, I finished a couple of belt tensioners that came out pretty trick! (I know, I know....who cares?.....but the design challenge is rewarding, WHEN IT WORKS THE FIRST TIME, haha!)
I just got some ackerman slugs (for my front uprights) back from my machinest today! They facilitate changing the steering ratio with no mods to the rack & pinion or input shaft! Now I can finish final tie-rod fab......and maybe roll this sucker around on the ground!.......Then I can finish rear axles, build the bottom tunnels, & have my header guy work his magic with the stainless. YIPPEE!
Recently I posted a pic of me solving rear tire clearance issues by cutting off parts of the rear chassis. NOW I have finished those off with hand formed .065" 6061 aluminum for improved rigidity & aesthitics
The suspension design & fab has taken such a ridiculous amount of time that I decided to fab Version 2.0 of the rear shock rockers.....so I would have more adjustability in the ARB blades pushrod ratios (kinda shooting in the dark on total deflection per unit of suspension travel)
Also, I discovered that my original design for the rear upper control arms wasn't giving me adequate suspension travel (without monoball bind), I just finished Version 3.0 on that! The arm needs to be so short (because the NSX chassis is WIDE) that even a high-misalignment monoball wouldn't work.....hence the giant heim end!
Problem solved!.....now I have a total of 5 1/2" of rear suspension travel (2 1/2" of compression & 3" of droop), with no bind! The new control arms look a little funny because the wheels have such a huge inboard offset that I was having clearance issues with the upper inside edge of the wheel in "full-droop" position.
So while all these suspension pieces were getting fabbed, I finished a couple of belt tensioners that came out pretty trick! (I know, I know....who cares?.....but the design challenge is rewarding, WHEN IT WORKS THE FIRST TIME, haha!)
I just got some ackerman slugs (for my front uprights) back from my machinest today! They facilitate changing the steering ratio with no mods to the rack & pinion or input shaft! Now I can finish final tie-rod fab......and maybe roll this sucker around on the ground!.......Then I can finish rear axles, build the bottom tunnels, & have my header guy work his magic with the stainless. YIPPEE!
Man I love reading through your thread Dale, especially when you post pics.....
It's like engineering porn .... LOL.......
I love the attention to detail.......top notch..... I like others, can't wait to see if running under it's own steam and doing what it was made for....
Keep up the good work sir...
It's like engineering porn .... LOL.......
I love the attention to detail.......top notch..... I like others, can't wait to see if running under it's own steam and doing what it was made for....
Keep up the good work sir...
Do I know you?.....sorry, but I can't find your name? Anyway, it appears you are local, so of course you can come by & check out the beast!
Thanks Fraser!
I'll have to use "engineering porn"......it's like you're "getting precious" all over it, haha!
More Engineering Porn!
I forgot to mention (in my last post) that in order to convert the upper rearcontrol arms from a monoball & post design to a Heim-end & "saddle"....I had to design & fab a SADDLE! It needs to bolt to the aluminum upright since it is made of 4340 (VERY strong!).
Testing front suspension through full range of motion; note the "dummy" shock rocker mock-up. I decided to revise the rockers similar to the rear rocker revision, mainly to increase adjustabilty of the ARB Blades / pushrods.
I designed the upper control arm connection to the upright to be adjustable fore & aft for caster, WITHOUT impacting camber! Not as obvious in this design is the ability to adjust scrub-radius when running different tire & wheel sizes....OR setting the car up for "WET" conditions.
OK, all you engineers & techies.....Anyone care to guess how I can adjust SCRUB, without disassembling the hub, wheel, or tire???
I forgot to mention (in my last post) that in order to convert the upper rearcontrol arms from a monoball & post design to a Heim-end & "saddle"....I had to design & fab a SADDLE! It needs to bolt to the aluminum upright since it is made of 4340 (VERY strong!).
Testing front suspension through full range of motion; note the "dummy" shock rocker mock-up. I decided to revise the rockers similar to the rear rocker revision, mainly to increase adjustabilty of the ARB Blades / pushrods.
I designed the upper control arm connection to the upright to be adjustable fore & aft for caster, WITHOUT impacting camber! Not as obvious in this design is the ability to adjust scrub-radius when running different tire & wheel sizes....OR setting the car up for "WET" conditions.
OK, all you engineers & techies.....Anyone care to guess how I can adjust SCRUB, without disassembling the hub, wheel, or tire???
My guess is: since you have heim on the upper and lower outer wishbone, you can adjust scrub that way.
NOPE,.....remember; scrub RADIUS only applies to the FRONT upright & wheel assemblies. Take a closer look @ the last 2 pics in post # 269
Yes....ideally, the smaller the s. radius the better the steering feedback. Well, you have a .090" thk plate so that can varies to adj. the scrub?
Well, you are getting closer, but you need to describe how your idea works?
BTW, the .090" written on the serrated saddle in the pic has nothing to do with any plate. Actually refers to how much I needed to grind off the 2 bolts that hold the saddle to the upper control arm.....so I could arrive at desired total steering angle (see blue ink lines on top of upright). The bolts act as stops to prevent rack damage.
HINT; I can adjust camber without affecting scrub radius & vice versa.....If I dial in zero scrub for a 12" wide wheel, & then bolt on an 11" wide wheel (assuming same offset), does it change the SR?
HINT; I can adjust camber without affecting scrub radius & vice versa.....If I dial in zero scrub for a 12" wide wheel, & then bolt on an 11" wide wheel (assuming same offset), does it change the SR?[/QUOTE]
pix 7/8 shows the backside of the upright is tapered and the "pillow block" mounts to it can be mounted the other way to increase camber but that number is fixed and not adjustable, if not, I give up.
AFAIK, SR is independent of the wheel dia., its dependent on the offset of the wheel. so the answer is no.
pix 7/8 shows the backside of the upright is tapered and the "pillow block" mounts to it can be mounted the other way to increase camber but that number is fixed and not adjustable, if not, I give up.
AFAIK, SR is independent of the wheel dia., its dependent on the offset of the wheel. so the answer is no.
Geeez one minute it's engineering porn 101, then the next it's a bloody university lesson........... alright already just tell us lesser beings !! LOL 
