Track test of non-compliance toe links and rear beam bushings from Ti Dave

I have been making rotors for Lotus Elise/Exige and build upgrade rotor sets for the Tesla Roadster which share the same calipers as the Elise/Exige platform. Folks are always interested in better braking so tend to get immersed in the options and limitations of the sets which is why I knew the AP caliper CB72 mentioned. I had a set in the shop last week for a test fit...

Only new brake project in my world is a light parking brake for the Elise/Exige, the stock parking brake is part of the caliper and weighs over 5 lb., making an aluminum one that should be 2 lb. with bracket.
 
I have been making rotors for Lotus Elise/Exige and build upgrade rotor sets for the Tesla Roadster which share the same calipers as the Elise/Exige platform. Folks are always interested in better braking so tend to get immersed in the options and limitations of the sets which is why I knew the AP caliper CB72 mentioned. I had a set in the shop last week for a test fit...

Only new brake project in my world is a light parking brake for the Elise/Exige, the stock parking brake is part of the caliper and weighs over 5 lb., making an aluminum one that should be 2 lb. with bracket.

Dave, beware that the AP Racing CP 7600 calipers I'm using are the CP 7611 that are used in the BBK for the Mini Cooper.
http://www.apracing.com/product_det...ons/mini_cooper-4_piston_kit_cp7611-1000.aspx.
They come with an integral bracket that I had machined to fit on the NSX rear wheel hub.
I just noticed that Alcon manufactures a rear disk that could be used with these calipers:
http://www.montgomery-motorsport.co.../alcon-subaru-wrc-rear-brake-disc-304x24.html
 
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Some ridiculously useful content in this thread, notes taken no doubt!

I have zero to add on the track stuff but I do know that the NSX specific rear AP BBK is CP7622 28mm, 28mm.

https://www.theboombopshop.com/AP-Racing-BBK-90-05-NSX-R-330mm-p/cp7622-1000.cg8.htm

R-Motion (@drmikey) had his AP BBK for sale a few months back and I convinced my buddy Trent out in AZ to buy it.
I was aware that APracing had a kit for the NSX but I'm not sure it's still available as it can't be found on their site.
 
Non-compliance front joint clamps added

The non-compliance front clamps from Ti Dave went on the car for the next Track day meeting.
The car was also fitted with my spare set of wheels running P Zero Corsa upfront and the famous Michelin Sport Cup 2's for the rear.
Riding to the track the car felt "tighter" and on the track I was able to keep more speed going into the fast downhill corner.
I'm not sure the car went much faster than before but I could more easily tackle my friend's Cayman GT4.
Apart from having to remove the front number plate to aid cooling, I had no issue whatsoever.
To go any quicker, I must reduce the understeer.
Two options are available: fit PZero Trofeo R's upfront and/or reinstall my rear Dali sway bar.
I can't understand why some of you don't understeer with weak or no rear sway bars?
I've tried going in on the brakes until the apex and then accelerating but no matter, understeer sets in going out of the bend.
Here's a first video where I chase a GTR and an AMG 55 (bare bone) after warming the tires behind a Boxster.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RppbGv-fK2Q&feature=youtu.be
 
Wish I was there to help you...you are doing what one of my coaches described as 'having the front end pinched and not letting the car rotate' before you hit your apex mid corner. The car is understeering because it is not pointed the correct direction before you get on power. You can reduce traction on the rear by using more sway bar on the rear to get the car to turn in quicker, like one does with autocross. I would suggest carrying a bit more speed into the corner and using the trail braking to get the car to rotate rather than 'steering' on your way out. Get the car pointed down track sooner, maybe a bit tail out since it will come back under you as you roll on the power.
 
Thanks Dave. My pal with his 997 GT3 phase 2 does exactly what you say as the 911's will understeer forever if you don't trailbrake them into the turn.
For some reason, I only manage this partially...
It's a bit like skying in deep snow, I suppose?
If you don't time the actions correctly you won't turn.
BTW I believe I did go 1 second faster than last time.
You'll see on the next video that it wasn't that bad in comparaison to a GT4.
 
Please don't take it as criticism, you are driving well. You are at 'the leap of faith' place in your develpoment as a driver and there is no way to creep up on it from my experience. Coaching really helps, someone in the passenger seat that can trade off with you and help with the subtle inputs. Racing a 993 for a couple of season is what got me comfortable with the move, like you say, 911 style cars just don't turn if they are not tail out. Then they throttle steer like a dream!
 
I would suggest carrying a bit more speed into the corner and using the trail braking to get the car to rotate rather than 'steering' on your way out. Get the car pointed down track sooner, maybe a bit tail out since it will come back under you as you roll on the power.

I physically had to remove my rear sway for the turbos and exhaust, but it also had the benefit of making me more confident in the rear during trail braking. Also, its less weight
 
thank you for all this good information :smile:
<body id="cke_pastebin" style="position: absolute; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; left: -1000px;">thank you for all this good information</body>
 
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