To upgrade or not - from NA1 brakes to....?

I didn't notice your response - I was looking at your "Where to buy thread" I bought mine off ebay some time ago.
I believe they were the 4000 series - If I can find the exact number I will PM you. Fit was perfect.
 
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I didn't notice your response - I was looking at your "Where to buy thread" I bought mine off ebay some time ago.
I believe they were the 4000 series - If I can find the exact number I will PM you. Fit was perfect.

Were they the T3 with the curved slots or the straight slots?


This is what I want...

http://www.dbausa.com/4000-series/
DBA_4000S-1024x735-updated.jpg


apparently there are 2 types of 4000 series.. This is not what I want:

1038.jpg
 
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Apparently they are discontinued .... :(
 
FYI, don't under estimate the condition of the modulator assembly effecting how the brakes feel in general (with the 1990-1999 cars).
Replacing the ABS with out touching the brakes can make the whole car brake so much better, visa versa when back to back testing cars that on paper are the same but have different brake characteristic (again condition of the modulator).

Now that said, in normal driving good discs,pads and stainless lines with proper fresh fluid should be perfectly fine.
The 97-05 cars actually have bigger diameter rear discs 303 in the rear and 298 in the font to get more heat out of the rear axle.
As the 282 heat soak much more easily in the back.

97-05 cars have smaller pistons in their front calipers versus 90-97 cars whilst calipers look identical en interchange perfectly, it will directly effect the hydraulic bias of the system (more force forward)
The cooling capacity of the later discs is a big advantage as the surface area is so much larger.

In terms of making the step up to actual BBK, the main question remains do you really need it?
This from a stopping power and heat prescriptive.

It's a rather large investment I always recommend customers to make that step last, often you see people going first BBK, then playing with compounds then as final solution the abs.
Working the other way around is going to save you time and money.

Now there are alternatives that sit between full bbk and oem brakes.
We have extension kits with floating discs on billet bells & cnc machined brackets that extend the stock calipers to fit basically bbk dics, specifically sized for the NSX bias and caliper width.
A good solution for those not wanting to mess with the handbrake OR the headache of wheels clearance which is a issue on the NSX.


That said a good setup for any stock NSX is,
StopTech or DBA discs (or OE NSX-R if your in for weight reduction of your wallet)
Good pads (i'm not going to say pick "A" brand of pad that is firstly personal secondly could spark a offtopic debat just like oil)
Stainless braided hoses
Good brake fluid

A cleaned and properly work ABS. (These have offical mandatory service intervals 90% aren't maintained)
Even with a perfectly fine 90-99 abs the 00-05 will kick it each and every time due to it being digitally bias controlled.

Now pads,

What i usually install on street cars would be StopTech i like there compound for a daily driver it works well. (far better than HPS)
That said if loudness and powder coating isn't a issue DS2500 Ferodo or Hawk HP+ are good options.
I also often use EBC Red and Yellow does are quite good too.

Like i said I'm not going to endorse a specific brand here and now, It's something that you unfortunately need to play around with and test.
Also lastly BED IN YOUR BRAKES.
 
I have stock brakes and love them. I would love to have the spoon calipers but i want to avoid to spend $1500 just to satisfy the Best Motoring inner me.

Here is my setup:

SOS brake lines
Amazon.com rotors (I think $28 shipped each?)
Carbotech XP10

I can't stress enough the importance of a good brake flush to have the right "feel".

If you flush the brakes and it doesn't feel right, do it again.

The nissin calipers may not be as flashy but are perfectly fine for the NSX. And that's a fact!
 
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