C.Y.A. :biggrin:
The New CT Engineering Supercharger
- Thread starter DrivingAmbition
- Start date
C.Y.A. :biggrin:
You be the judge :tongue: but I do think both statements are accurate :biggrin:
I've ran my NSX in 15 degree weather and still the AFR's were solid. I don't know how much colder it needs to be before it's considered "safe". Where did all this fear come from all of a sudden? FWIW I spoke to shad and went over all my parameters (A/F ratios, boost levels, power) and he said "its perfect". I have posted all that info on other threads.
Netviper, yes pinging should happen in colder weather, I am just saying I ran two hard track days it ran flawlessly. None of the higher horsepower cars on the track (Z06, Ford GT, 997TT) were able to increase their lead on me on the straights at Watkins. I suppose with an even longer straight its possible but the 997TT owner asked me how I could keep up in the straights after I passed him on one of our last laps.
I am sure the new one is fine, so was the autorotor, and so was the older whipple. In general, any CT supercharger, for the number sold, driven, and ran at the track is the most proven FI system there is.
Netviper, yes pinging should happen in colder weather, I am just saying I ran two hard track days it ran flawlessly. None of the higher horsepower cars on the track (Z06, Ford GT, 997TT) were able to increase their lead on me on the straights at Watkins. I suppose with an even longer straight its possible but the 997TT owner asked me how I could keep up in the straights after I passed him on one of our last laps.
I am sure the new one is fine, so was the autorotor, and so was the older whipple. In general, any CT supercharger, for the number sold, driven, and ran at the track is the most proven FI system there is.
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I don't have an answer for you as to why your car runs perfect and others did not. Maybe it was the installs on some of the cars that led to problems? I have no idea. I am glad yours run great though.
I don't think the "fear" is all of a sudden. The problems started pretty soon after the switch the autorotor. I haven't read any in a long time so maybe they are all fixed. Maybe someone that had the problems can post in here for us.
You are right also that the CT is the most proven solution out there. I am looking forward to seeing what the new version can do.
I'm here in NY and it's as cold as where you are Turbo2go. My AFR numbers have been fine as well. My Autorotor CTSC does not cause my motor to "ping".
An honest answer not an indictment.
Still others will remember and hear what they want to.
I find it hard to believe there were NO problems with the early first few whipple CTSC's.
It would be nice if R&D, anyone's, caught all the problems up front but they seldom do.
What I'm sure of is that if there were to be are any hiccups in the new unit it would be resolved quickly by CTE.
An honest answer not an indictment.
Still others will remember and hear what they want to.
I find it hard to believe there were NO problems with the early first few whipple CTSC's.
It would be nice if R&D, anyone's, caught all the problems up front but they seldom do.
What I'm sure of is that if there were to be are any hiccups in the new unit it would be resolved quickly by CTE.
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While I expect my Whipple will last tens of years into the future, in the back of my mind I'm always wondering about availability of replacement parts (in this case replacing blower without also needing to purchase a new manifold).
Shad, can you confirm and elaborate on Trev's last statement? Which (if any) variants of the old Whipple and Autorotor kits will accept this newer blower as a more-or-less drop-in replacement? Seems at some point I may have lost track of the various different manifolds available for the old kit (I know of "made from OEM manifold" and "not made from OEM manifold...but know not of "bolted top plate" vs. "welded top plate"). A list of the various generations/versions of manifolds would be great.
I'm diggin' those injectors.
I think we can skip the very first few that where made using the existing nsx intake manifold.
So that leaves the first comptech castings that had the top plate welded on.
These are the ones that are sol.
Anything after that you are fine.
Just go look at the top of your manifold, if the top deck is screwed or bolted on, then you are good.
If not like me, then you are sol.
My welded manifold is powder coated black. I'm not saying all of them where but mine is.
Trev
Now after saying all that, I am not sure if the new blower 1600AX used as a replacement for the 1600AR will need a new manifold top plate or just a modification to your removeable, but my guess is that you would need to get it as a kit since mounting is different between the two 1600's. This was true for using the autorotor as a replacement for those that could on their 1600ar's. The autorotor and this new 1600AX both bolt from the bottom, so you got to get under there.
So that leaves the first comptech castings that had the top plate welded on.
These are the ones that are sol.
Anything after that you are fine.
Just go look at the top of your manifold, if the top deck is screwed or bolted on, then you are good.
If not like me, then you are sol.
My welded manifold is powder coated black. I'm not saying all of them where but mine is.
Trev
Now after saying all that, I am not sure if the new blower 1600AX used as a replacement for the 1600AR will need a new manifold top plate or just a modification to your removeable, but my guess is that you would need to get it as a kit since mounting is different between the two 1600's. This was true for using the autorotor as a replacement for those that could on their 1600ar's. The autorotor and this new 1600AX both bolt from the bottom, so you got to get under there.
wait...
im running the stock autorotor setup... in this cold weather, im bein dangerously lean?
im running the stock autorotor setup... in this cold weather, im bein dangerously lean?
Because I've had my CTSC low boost setup for about 100k miles, and have driven it in 109F - 38F dry/wet situations...I've heard ping before, and when I do I pour a can of Torco in the tank...problem solved.:wink:
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<TABLE cellSpacing=2 cellPadding=0 width=550 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD bgColor=white>
</TD></TR><TR><TD bgColor=white>
<TABLE cellSpacing=2 cellPadding=0 width=430 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>[FONT=Courier New, Courier, Monaco, monospace]Get TORCO for $95.00 a case of 6 cans. The unleaded concentrate when mixed with 91-93 octane super unleaded gas makes up to 100 octane race fuel depending on the mix. Take a case with you and never worry again about not having high octane racing fuel on hand
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<TABLE cellSpacing=2 cellPadding=0 width=550 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD bgColor=white>
TORCO ACCELERATOR RACE FUEL
CONCENTRATE UNLEADED
Case of 6 quarts
</TD></TR><TR><TD>CONCENTRATE UNLEADED
Case of 6 quarts
<TABLE cellSpacing=2 cellPadding=0 width=537 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=142 bgColor=#010066>CHECK OUT
TORCO’S STATS</TD><TD>
</TD></TR><TR><TD bgColor=white>TORCO’S STATS</TD><TD>
<!--ENTER BUTTON CODE HERE --><FORM action=https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr method=post> <INPUT type=image alt="" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/btn_buynowCC_LG.gif" border=0 name=submit>
</FORM>
</TD><TD bgColor=#010066></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE cellSpacing=2 cellPadding=0 width=430 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>[FONT=Courier New, Courier, Monaco, monospace]Get TORCO for $95.00 a case of 6 cans. The unleaded concentrate when mixed with 91-93 octane super unleaded gas makes up to 100 octane race fuel depending on the mix. Take a case with you and never worry again about not having high octane racing fuel on hand
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Because I've had my CTSC low boost setup for about 100k miles, and have driven it in 109F - 38F dry/wet situations...I've heard ping before, and when I do I pour a can of Torco in the tank...problem solved.:wink:
=============================
<TABLE cellSpacing=2 cellPadding=0 width=550 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD bgColor=white>TORCO ACCELERATOR RACE FUEL</TD></TR><TR><TD>
CONCENTRATE UNLEADED
Case of 6 quarts</TD></TR><TR><TD bgColor=white><TABLE cellSpacing=2 cellPadding=0 width=537 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=142 bgColor=#010066>CHECK OUT</TD></TR><TR><TD bgColor=white>
TORCO’S STATS</TD><TD><!--ENTER BUTTON CODE HERE --><FORM action=https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr method=post> <INPUT type=image alt="" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/btn_buynowCC_LG.gif" border=0 name=submit></TD><TD bgColor=#010066></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></FORM></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE cellSpacing=2 cellPadding=0 width=430 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>[FONT=Courier New, Courier, Monaco, monospace]Get TORCO for $95.00 a case of 6 cans. The unleaded concentrate when mixed with 91-93 octane super unleaded gas makes up to 100 octane race fuel depending on the mix. Take a case with you and never worry again about not having high octane racing fuel on hand
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
What is Torco made out of, lead?
How does it raise the octane that high...
How much boost are your making?
100k? Good man! Which CTSC do you have? Whipple, Autorotor?
"and when I do I pour a can of Torco in the tank...problem solved."
So what your saying is, there is a problem!!!
Trev
So what your saying is, there is a problem!!!
Trev
Whipple.
I don't think there is a problem with the CTSC. I haven't used Torco in months, and I really think the cold ping issue is likely due to a change in fuel formulation during the winter months.
The last time I've heard pinging was last winter [2007].
My memory is the same as yours; that when the gas in CA dropped octane that first fall, that the lowered octane PLUS the cooler outside temps produced SOME pinging. This lead to the to the introduction of the fuel piggy back to make the cars run a bit richer at some points during the range. Shad developed this, no?
I think this was because the autorotor runs much cooler than the other units, so it doesnt have the ECU pulling timing back (with the heat). So you run more aggressive timing which makes you more likely to ping than otherwise. The cooler temps (and denser air) with lower octane where enough to put it just over the ping/no ping threshold prior to the introduction of the piggy back.
Ive never heard my car ping. Ive never had anyone say that they've heard my car ping. Ive driven my car hundreds of times well below freezing. Ive tried to always make sure that it has had 94 octane in it in the cold, and 91 at minimum at all times. My car runs rich and according to the data from my AEM A/F wideband, Im not at all worried.
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Yeah, Aem is something different though.
We are not worried bout that.
We are talking basic kits sold back in the day really.
Stock injectors, you know.
Trev
We are not worried bout that.
We are talking basic kits sold back in the day really.
Stock injectors, you know.
Trev
Regarding autorotors being a "ticking time bomb".
I think that that is a sensational comment. Is it true that you're at greater risk of blowing up your engine with an autorotor on it, or any supercharger for that matter? YES.
Is it true that the autorotor is less safe than the lysholm? Possibly, but neither have been shown to be an unsafe option. I would even go further and say that there is no evidence to suggest that either is an unsafe option. There is certainly none that Ive seen. The autorotor also produces way more power for the same engine than the whipple. Its either higher boost (debatable), leaner (not according to what Ive seen), or timing (definitely).
When it is cold, make sure you have 94 octane in the car. Make sure you stay easy on the gas until the engine is warmed up, and I dont mean until the vents are blowing warm air or until the needle shows its warm. Be cautious on the gas until the engine is heat soaked, which is probably 15 minutes of driving.
I think that that is a sensational comment. Is it true that you're at greater risk of blowing up your engine with an autorotor on it, or any supercharger for that matter? YES.
Is it true that the autorotor is less safe than the lysholm? Possibly, but neither have been shown to be an unsafe option. I would even go further and say that there is no evidence to suggest that either is an unsafe option. There is certainly none that Ive seen. The autorotor also produces way more power for the same engine than the whipple. Its either higher boost (debatable), leaner (not according to what Ive seen), or timing (definitely).
When it is cold, make sure you have 94 octane in the car. Make sure you stay easy on the gas until the engine is warmed up, and I dont mean until the vents are blowing warm air or until the needle shows its warm. Be cautious on the gas until the engine is heat soaked, which is probably 15 minutes of driving.
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Thanks for the back-up. I was starting to think I was insane since nobody seemed to remember this but me.
I am glad to hear your car is running great still. I will have to see it one of these days. Are you planning on going with the AEM FIC?
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AEM is a company that makes wide band controllers. They also make ECM's.
Before you assume Biobanker is taking about the latter maybe we ought to get some clarification.
Biobanker, do you have a AEM Electronic Control Module that controls your cars tuning or a AEM wideband controller that monitors your A/F ratios?
They are two different things.
I have a wideband O2 sensor and control unit that monitors my A/F ratio but it's by Innovate Motorsports though AEM makes one as well.
As I have previously posted, my car A/F numbers are in the low 11's in the 20F and below temps.
I hope you all noticed that one fellow here reported pinging with his Whipple unit as well. It would seem possible that the temp and the lower octane fuel served up in some parts of California makes this more of geographical problem than a Autorotor or Whipple blower phenomenon.
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I've just got the gauge.
It has always read that my ratios are low to mid 11s
My base autorotor kit with the piggy back was taken out of the box, installed, dynod and never really touched again during the last 3 yrs.
It rocks!!!!
It has always read that my ratios are low to mid 11s
My base autorotor kit with the piggy back was taken out of the box, installed, dynod and never really touched again during the last 3 yrs.
It rocks!!!!
Sounds like it works just like mine. :biggrin:
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