TEIN NSX Flex suspension - who's tried 'em and why do you like them?

[03 raw nsx]

Wow guys, great reading. :biggrin:

Now I have a question:
I have Eibach pro, I think they are the 'out of production' progressive springs. If I hit a pot hole, I feel a 'bottoming out' sensation in the front only. I need to put it up on a lift to find out what is hitting. But if it is the current suspension set up and I need to change what are my options?

current set up:
Work Termist TS-1 18/8 +38, 19/10 +45
Toyo Proxies T1-R 225/35/18, 275/30/19 (the 225's are not an issue)
Eibach Pro Springs on OE 2003 shocks w/10k miles
Ayott Camber Correction Hardware

I would like to maintain my current lowered height of 1.25 and I may want to take it on the track for fun - not hard core tracking.

and can it be done for around $1000 :redface: in parts, I can install myself. Although I would love to get the KW's, the sound like THE BEST setup.:wink:

TIA
Rich Wong

 

[djdrock]

I hate Tein with a royal passion. I take every opportunity to steer business away from them. The pillow ball mounts will rattle most likely. See this thread...

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124500

Their service sucks! They make no appology for their faulty engineering! They say it is normal for them to make noise after a while... Laughable!

 

[dablackgoku1234]

Bottoming out sensation sounds more like a blown shock. Check for leaks in the front.

Wow guys, great reading. :biggrin:

Now I have a question:
I have Eibach pro, I think they are the 'out of production' progressive springs. If I hit a pot hole, I feel a 'bottoming out' sensation in the front only. I need to put it up on a lift to find out what is hitting. But if it is the current suspension set up and I need to change what are my options?

current set up:
Work Termist TS-1 18/8 +38, 19/10 +45
Toyo Proxies T1-R 225/35/18, 275/30/19 (the 225's are not an issue)
Eibach Pro Springs on OE 2003 shocks w/10k miles
Ayott Camber Correction Hardware

I would like to maintain my current lowered height of 1.25 and I may want to take it on the track for fun - not hard core tracking.

and can it be done for around $1000 :redface: in parts, I can install myself. Although I would love to get the KW's, the sound like THE BEST setup.:wink:

TIA
Rich Wong

 

[MrHugo]

With lowering springs on OEM shocks, the dampers will be compressed most of the time, like previous posters have mentioned about less distance of damping travel. Lets say I won't hit any bumps with the setup, won't that kill the OEM shocks in a long run since the shocks are compressed all the time? Thus, making the setup not balance?

On that note, will it be a better choice to just run the OEM setup on track (which might handle better than OEM with lowering springs) till one is ready to upgrade to something like the KW V3, or JRZ/Moton? I think the KW V3s are not independent ride height adjustable either, which causes similar problem as stated above about the OEM with lowering springs setup?

Hugo

 

[stuntman]

With lowering springs on OEM shocks, the dampers will be compressed most of the time, like previous posters have mentioned about less distance of damping travel. Lets say I won't hit any bumps with the setup, won't that kill the OEM shocks in a long run since the shocks are compressed all the time? Thus, making the setup not balance?

Having a lower ride height shouldn't 'kill' the OEM shock even though the static ride height/position is closer to bottoming out than stock. What does kill the shock is running out of travel and bottoming out. As you said, you reduce the compression travel with lowering springs (you don't get extra travel) and without the compression travel with barely stiffer springs, big bumps can cause the new system to bottom out - and thus kill the shock. I've done this on my M3 with Koni Yellows and H&R Lowering springs.

On that note, will it be a better choice to just run the OEM setup on track (which might handle better than OEM with lowering springs) till one is ready to upgrade to something like the KW V3, or JRZ/Moton? I think the KW V3s are not independent ride height adjustable either, which causes similar problem as stated above about the OEM with lowering springs setup?

Hugo

Its tough to say if the OEM ride height and spring rate will be faster on track than lowering springs (which make the car have a lower center of gravity, slightly higher spring rates, etc...). It depends on how often you drive the car on the street and how often you run over crappy torn up pavement. If you barely drive the car and you track it often and changing out the springs to lowering springs wont cost you much, then why not. Especially if its temporary.

The KW V3's have shortened shock bodies and a lot of thought has gone into them for each application, so no you will not run into the bottoming out issue with just lowering springs. They are designed to have the proper compression and droop travel for street to track use given their spring rates and recommended ride height (KW has a booklet that says what their recommended operating height ranges are - and truthfully, you shouldn't lower the car any lower than they recommend due to clearance and roll center issues). Retrofitting stiffer springs on a KW V3 also isn't an issue because the suspension will travel less given the same load/bump as long as you are still within their recommended height range.


Billy

 

[RYU]

(KW has a booklet that says what their recommended operating height ranges are - and truthfully, you shouldn't lower the car any lower than they recommend due to clearance and roll center issues)

Sorry for the OT.

Billy, do you have any idea what is the recommended ride height range for the KW V3s?

Reason I ask... I'm currently at around 1.575" F / 1.875" R lower ride height with my Tein S-Tech & Bilsteins on lower perch. It would be nice to get some reference for my future KW purchase if my current ride height is too low already.

 

[stuntman]

Sorry for the OT.

Billy, do you have any idea what is the recommended ride height range for the KW V3s?

Reason I ask... I'm currently at around 1.575" F / 1.875" R lower ride height with my Tein S-Tech & Bilsteins on lower perch. It would be nice to get some reference for my future KW purchase if my current ride height is too low already.

Measure your ride height from the ground to the front and rear jacking points on the frame rail and tell me the heights of your current setup.

 

[RYU]

Measure your ride height from the ground to the front and rear jacking points on the frame rail and tell me the heights of your current setup.

I can do that. However, I tend not to use those measuring points because it may vary based on my wheel/tire combinations. I do know that based on the advertised drop of the Bilsteins + Teins I am at 1.575" F / 1.875" R lower ride height.

Easy enough to get you the jacking point height thought. I appreciate the comments.

Will PM you so not to derail this thread.

 

[stuntman]

I can do that. However, I tend not to use those measuring points because it may vary based on my wheel/tire combinations. I do know that based on the advertised drop of the Bilsteins + Teins I am at 1.575" F / 1.875" R lower ride height.

Easy enough to get you the jacking point height thought. I appreciate the comments.

Will PM you so not to derail this thread.

Many reputable companies (not naming any names) have substantial differences in the consistency of their spring rates. Also springs (especially lowering springs in the stock diameter) tend to sag over time.

List the height measurements as well as your tire size front and rear (to calculate diameter and wheel centerline).