Technical Help please

thanks guys..

Lud- the VT e-mail address is my brothers, my real e-mail adress is [email protected]
nsx prime forums didn't accept hotmail
frown.gif

I live in Virginia Beach

I made an appointment this Tuesday for the car to be checked and diagnosed..
anyone have any idea how much, like an est. of getting the diagnosis, check up, coolant change, oil change, etc.
it looks pretty costly, like $1500 to change water pump!
if seals, head gasket, etc. need to be replaced anyone know how much? I know they would needed to be replace eventually.. I'm scared.. I will have $0 by this month..

The guy at Acura seems to be a decent mechanic and he knows what he's doing, I'm pretty sure he worked on other NSX's in my area.

I drove the car today, any everything seemed to work fine. The acceleration and the VTEC seemed to be working fine.. like normal.
But who knows, I'am hoping if the car is ok.
I planned to take it to the Acura dealer for a check up next week anyways

I will only let Acura and other professional mechanics work on my car. As of now I'am still upset, but now there's no turning back, and nothing I can do to change the past..

Some people said it could be minor, and 20% major.. I hope for the best, and I'll keep you all informed on what happens..

if anyone has Aol Instant Messenger, post your SN!!

http://www.nsxsc.com/ubb/Forum17/HTML/000031.html

here is a good post about over heating by Brent Cobb


[This message has been edited by Gokwi (edited 23 October 2002).]
 
I'm surprised no one mentioned an easy way to kill an idling engine when locked out of the cab. Take 2 potatoes, rags, or whatever is handy (rocks and mud), and plug the exhaust. You can suffocate an engine by plugging the exhaust as well as plugging the intake. If the hatch over the engine was open (someones dad had access to the cooling system), plugging the intake would also work quite nicely.

Fritz
 
yea that what I was thinking at the time, or someone told me I could disconnect the coil wire to shut the engine off..

I have a feeling the head gaskets, the seals will eventually need to be replaced, because when my dad drained out the bluish greenish fluid before it over heated,

i saw some black oil spots in the coolant. So I'm guessing maybe some tubes or head gasket needs to be replaced..

if anyone can go into further detail, please do so..
 
Well,

If the hatch was open you could easily disconnect the resistor pack for the fuel injectors and fuel flow would stop. This is located near the fuel filter, and the connector is just behind and to the side of the alternator.

That would be the safest way. I was under the impression the rear glass was also closed.

Oh, Please, Please, Please STOP listening to people who know nothing about these cars. Your neighbor has no idea what he is talking about. Talk to anyone hear that has installed a FRAM filter and has had it blow out and send oil all over the place.

If you think overheating is a problem for your engine, no oil pressure will really wake you up!!!!!!

In regard to something like an "engine reseal" I would say no. If it runs fine, you could do a compression test to verify condition, but I would stop there, unless results are not good.

Yes, the water pump job is expensive, because it is a lot of work to get to it. At 108,000 miles has the car had a timing belt replacement yet? It should have.

Fritz,

Watch out for those potato projectiles
smile.gif
Could be one hell of a "french fry" LOL

HTH,
LarryB

[This message has been edited by Larry Bastanza (edited 24 October 2002).]
 
thanks fritz for your reply..
yes as of now I'am letting Acura do everything, use honda oil filter and honda NSX coolant..

are you sure an engine seal is not needed?

where should I get the compression test done at, by acura or by somewhere else?

Well, what my first concern right now, is the engine status, I want to know if there is any internal damage or what not..
I'am going to let acura doa diagnosis.. so.. I'm looking foward to Tuesday..
 
Originally posted by Gokwi:
I made an appointment this Tuesday for the car to be checked and diagnosed..
anyone have any idea how much, like an est. of getting the diagnosis, check up, coolant change, oil change, etc.
Click to expand...

Coolant change will take a couple hours, oil change should be a standard charge and a compression test should no take more than an hour. I'd guess a total cost of around $300, but that's just a guess.

Originally posted by Gokwi:
it looks pretty costly, like $1500 to change water pump!
Click to expand...

Yes, changing the water pump is expensive as it is basically a t-belt change + a bit to do the water pump. I'm not sure you need a new water pump at this point. I'd wait for a professional diagnosis before you start replacing parts arbitrarily.

Originally posted by Gokwi:
if seals, head gasket, etc. need to be replaced anyone know how much?
Click to expand...


Worst case is your entire engine needs replacment (warped block and heads). Most likely this is not the case and if your car is running "fine" right now then we know that there is nothing catastrophically wrong with your engine (which is good). If it is determined that your head gaskets need replacing then it would be wise to replace them along with a bunch of other seals and water pump. If this is the case, it would be worth taking it to Barn Man for a second opinion and to do the work right. Parts alone for a head gasket and all new seals, water pump and t-belt would run around $700 bucks. It would take around 15 hours (I'm not 100% sure abou this) to replace the gaskets, etc., so you're looking at around 2k for the fix.

DanO
 
Originally posted by nsx4fun:
I'm surprised no one mentioned an easy way to kill an idling engine when locked out of the cab. Take 2 potatoes, rags, or whatever is handy (rocks and mud), and plug the exhaust. You can suffocate an engine by plugging the exhaust as well as plugging the intake.
Click to expand...

True and I might try that myself, but I'm hesitant to recommend it to others because it can have "exciting" results...
smile.gif
 
Originally posted by Markbert:
Helm publishes Acura shop manuals, electrical manuals, supplements and the like for the NSX (revised content specific to years with updates). For example, all the information on my 1994 NSX
Click to expand...
from helms
I'am confused, should I buy the
$42 Owner manual, or the
$76 Service manual?
or is it another manual?
 
Definitely Service Manual. The owner's manual is nice to have in the glovebox, but for getting the facts on service, it's the best $76 you can spend. I have one for every car I own (well almost, I haven't bought one yet for my 2002 CR-V, but I will before my first oil change).

Fritz
 
You can ask your dad to go to this website too to learn about NSX a little bit. Me and my father never have time to spend together.
 
*UPDATE*

my car is driving well, and this morning i just got back form the acura dealer.. they said it should be ok, and if there is anything, bring it in
but anyways I ended up buying an OEM filter, and some other acessories..
then I went to my friend's meineke shop, and brought 6 guarts of synthetic oil. and they did an oil change..

the guy was telling me, all about NSX's and stuff, and he rarely sees them around there, and he told me that their is a TWIN TURBO NSX in the movie "Pulp fiction"
someone correct me please? i didn't know that..

then they lifted the car, and found out one of my struts is leaking!! they have to replace them in pairs, so I have to buy 2, plus labor!
frown.gif

total of $1001!!

man I'am going to be so broke, I just got the car for almost 2 weeks..
 
Originally posted by Gokwi:
[UPDATE*

, plus labor!
frown.gif

total of $1001!!

man I'am going to be so broke, I just got the car for almost 2 weeks..[/B]
Click to expand...

AOL VOICE: Welcome!!
biggrin.gif
Really once you get those small things fixed, this car is very reliable. So do not let this discourage your ownership. The repairs will pay for themselves. Also, Did you get the service manual to learn about the car?
 
Gokwi,

The strut thing, although it's not good, you may wish to wait to have this done. I realize this may seem like strange advice, but based on your situation you are kind of at the mercy of the dealer.

I sense they know it. There are many alternatives to new "OEM" struts that are more cost effective. For example, many folks have upgraded their shocks, and have OEM shocks, probably in perfect condition, or close, that come up for sale. There are Koni's, Bilsteins, and others to choose from.

I guess I am suggesting that you take a breath from this last episode, and do a little homework first. If the strut is weeping, it does not mean it is totally shot TODAY, and must be changed immediately. I am thinking you can investigate a more cost effective solution with a little time invested here, and at other sources.

The way to look at it is $1000, what can I get??

Bilsteins are $544 for FOUR, at www.daliracing.com and even if you are charged one hour per wheel, you are at $280 @$70/hr. So I am thinking for $825 out the door you could have a complete 4 corner replacement.

I am sure you could find used OEM's (2) for less then that. I would immediately post an ad in "Parts Wanted" here and see what happens, you could get a response today!!

Anyway, just wanted to mention some alternatives. Relax, do some homework, then decide.

HTH,
LarryB




[This message has been edited by Larry Bastanza (edited 29 October 2002).]
 
Originally posted by Gokwi:
*UPDATE*

my car is driving well, and this morning i just got back form the acura dealer.. they said it should be ok, and if there is anything, bring it in
but anyways I ended up buying an OEM filter, and some other acessories..
then I went to my friend's meineke shop, and brought 6 guarts of synthetic oil. and they did an oil change..

the guy was telling me, all about NSX's and stuff, and he rarely sees them around there, and he told me that their is a TWIN TURBO NSX in the movie "Pulp fiction"
someone correct me please? i didn't know that..

then they lifted the car, and found out one of my struts is leaking!! they have to replace them in pairs, so I have to buy 2, plus labor!
frown.gif

total of $1001!!

man I'am going to be so broke, I just got the car for almost 2 weeks..
Click to expand...

Buy a set of 4 Bilsteins for $550 TOTAL and have those installed. Look at daliracing.com for the Bilsteins
Should not cost more than a couple hundred to install all 4 shocks
 
so basically, you all are telling me to buy a set of after market blisteins, for $550, and replace all 4? they(MEINEKE) said it's hard to do it on the nsx.
This is not the quote from Acura it's from Meineke, I don't know how much from Acura it cost..
but I'll find out, as for the manual, I have yet no time to order it
frown.gif


but will soon, anyways, should I just get OEM, or Blisteins? Do they make much difference?


sorry I'am lost, can someone link me to the dali racing $550 struts? thanks

[This message has been edited by Gokwi (edited 29 October 2002).]
 
Gokwi,

If the MEINEKE guy states it's "hard to do", then do not let him do it! He obviously has NO experience, so let's not get into more trouble here.

I posted the link in my post for Dali, see above.

The choice on which way you go Bilstein vs. OEM vs. Koni is up to you. Do some research on pricing as I mentioned above and decide. Obviously a full set vs. two struts is better if the price is the same or lower.

LarryB
 
larry, I know you gave me the site to dali, but I can't find any koni, blistens struts for sale in their list, it only has coil over strut bars, etc.

I'm asking for the direct link to the product..

I'm debating to let 4 mechanics from meineke work on it..
or just let Acura dealership do it?

I'm going to get quotes and see how much it cost to do..
also debating on to get blistens or konis?!?! anyone have experience with those? maybe Teins? lol

your comment would be apppriciated.. thanks

[This message has been edited by Gokwi (edited 30 October 2002).]
 
Larry, I know this is a stupid question..
I thought shocks and struts are 2 different things?
does that $272 pair all in one?

like do they both work together like how for an exhaust system, 4-2-1 headers work with a cat back exhaust system?

yea i'm thinking of replacing all 4 of them if they are that cheap!! man $404 for each pair from the other shop..
and idea on where I should get the replacement done at?

[This message has been edited by Gokwi (edited 30 October 2002).]
 
Gokwi,

In the days of front engine/rear wheel drive American cars the "shock" was a unit that bolted at each end and was removed (separate) from the spring.

In the majority of cars today, including the NSX, the "shock" and "spring" get assembled together(spring over shock) and is commonly called a "strut".

So for the purposes of our discussion they are the same. When the dealer said your "strut" was leaking he was refering to the "shock" which is located inside the spring.

The pricing from Dali is for the "shock" and the "springs" on your car will be reused, over the new shocks.

As far as where to go for the job, did I recall Lud mentioning in this thread he was in your area, or your brothers??

Lud,

Do you know of any experienced shop for Gokwi to have his suspension work done?

Also, if you consider an Acura dealer, you want to be sure there is an NSX trained tech available.

HTH,
LarryB
 
yea thanks, I hope Lud can direct me to a shop that can do this..
is there anyway to find out if there are any other NSX owners in my area, besides lud?
 
Sorry, if you are in VA Beach I don't know any shops in your area. I am 5-6 hours away.

If you go up to the DC area, Pohanka Acura or Curry's Automotive have decent NSX experience. I think Performance Acura in Chapel Hill, NC has decent experience as well. But those are all a few hours from VA Beach.

[This message has been edited by Lud (edited 30 October 2002).]
 
Originally posted by Gokwi:
today has been a bad day


i brung it to my dads place
he thought he knew wat he was doing

he flushed out the coolant
and then put another type of coolant which was red
which he was not suppose to use
then he told me to start it, so i did
then he closed the door
and my keys were locked in
i was like holy $#@$
so i had to drive to my restaurant to get my mom' house key then, drive home to get my spare key
and that all took 30 minutes
while that was happenening he called me up and said the car was heating up
the radiator container was steaming
so he let slowly lose of the radiator cap to get all the steam out
while this was happening I'm pretty sure the engine temperature was all the way HIGH, you know that thermometer near ur speedometer
R he called his friend who used to be a mechanic
Romir0: he took out the radioator container and flushed out the whole thing, with a water hose
and put the right coolant (bluish greenish) in there

questions
I would like to know, if there could be any internal engine damage cause the engine was so hot, cause nothing was going through the radiator

does radiator coolant harm the paint of the car, when my dad release the pressure from the radiator, the coolant splatter, but then we hosed it down with water right away..

is it diffulcult to change the oil of an NSX by yourself, or should I just leave it to Acura?

thank you in advanced for your help
Click to expand...


Several posters have suggested not mixing coolants. They are correct.

There are two main types of coolant in use today (sorry guys, but I cannot remember the fine details!). The older, more tradnitional one is the one we are all aware of, usually based on polyethylene glycol. The newer stuff has a completely different formulation (organic acid type) - this is the so called "super coolants", like GM's Dexcool. They are called that because they are touted as "lasting 150,000 miles" or something like that. Of course, coolants also contain buffers to keep the Ph levels neutral. Sometime they will also have components (silicates, perhaps) to coat and protect the metal surfaces from galvanic corrosion.

Although the labels on the coolant suggest mixing is fine, they can have some side effects. Using the newer coolant in a system designed for the older poly-glycol is not always recommended. For example, the newer coolant types cannot be used where heat exchangers use tin or lead based solders because the coolant can slowly dissolve these. In other words, soldered or brazed joints, like in some radiators and heater cores, can get damaged over time.

Also, some manufactuers often specify unique additives in their coolant to prevent the corrosion of metals. In a case where iron and aluminum are used, the coolant must have additives (buffers) to prevent it from creating electrolytic flow - this is what causes metal to be eroded away over time. Note that the Japanese companies in particular like to specify unique requirements. Its therefore best to follow their recommendations to the letter.

If you want to know more on this subject, "Car and Driver" ran a few articles on coolants some time back. Their editor, Pat Bedard, explained the differences in coolant types and effects in better detail. I know this may be nerdy response, or maybe it doesn't have enough information, but I hope it helps explain that all coolants are not equal!

Drive well!

Kyle
(hopefully future NSX owner)
 

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