taking engine out

[Bart Geerts]

I blew a head-gasket 5 minutes ago...
I'm going to take the whole engine out and do a full overhaul.
Is there anything I can do to get higher compression? I know at some race engines the head-gaskets are replaced by thin metal ones? Do they exist for NSX and has someone experience with them?
Anything else I should do besides timing belt, waterpump, oil-pan gasket? Would it be a good idea to disassemble the lower engine block for segment rings etc???
thx

 

[j14nsx]

Will you need to skim the head anyway if the head gasket blew, and you lost coolant - overheating the engine / head?

 

[Bart Geerts]

Will you need to skim the head anyway if the head gasket blew, and you lost coolant - overheating the engine / head?

Nothing of that... white smoke just like I elected a new pope....
smell of coolant, comming out of the right exhaust pipe. And traces of oil on the rear bumper. But never overheated, I was 2 miles from home when it happened. But I might consider trimming the head away anyways for some compression gain, or is that dangerous ?

 

[jgtcnsx]

i would try to get a copper head gasket. those probably are the best. im sure if you do a search on it you will find something to help you.

 

[Dave Hardy]

I've been less than impressed with copper head gaskets. You might see if Honda updated the gaskets at some point. My 89 and 91 Civics came with a fiber gasket, but in '94 they changed over to a three layer metal gasket. The old engines can use the new gasket though. See if something similar occured in the C-Series engines. It is hard to beat the OE three-layer.

As for bumping the compression, I wouldn't shave the head. It throws your cam timing off, which means you will need to buy and tune adjustable gears. It also makes the head less robust if you ever do overheat. Since you're going to have the whole engine down anyway, do the compression bump the proper way with new pistons.

 

[Andrie Hartanto]

Use the 3.2L gasket. They are metal and will fit.

 

[NSX-Racer]

Just for the record (I PMd you too): You don't have to remove the engine to change gaskets, water pump and timing belt.

BTW: The metal gaskets of the 3.2 can leak too (just changed mine).

edit (off topic): Just saw that this was my 1000. posting - I guess I'm now officialy a NSX Prime addict too (with place No. 116 on the reputation point charts - thank you for the points).

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

Remember that modifying the deck heights on a V motor will change the geometry of the timing belt. Adjustable cam gears will be required for any significant changes.

-- Chris

 

[mikeh]

Good info in this thread, thanks guys.

I've also been contemplating building my own turbo system for my car. I was considering going with a thicker than oem copper head gasket to reduce compression slightly (just enough to make me sleep better at night, not a large amount to run tons of boost) without cracking open the engine and putting in lower compression pistons.

I hadn't realized that adjustable cam gears would be required after that.

Anyone know how much the copper head gaskets would cost? I assume if you called up one of the copper gasket vendors they would say they would have to custom make it since they wouldn't have a model/mold for the nsx engine..

-mike

 

[Dave Hardy]

Any reason you want to drop the CR? Low CR with big boost works great at the strip, but for normal driving I prefer a relatively high CR with low boost. My race motor is going to be running 4-5 psi on top of 11.1:1 using 100 octane. An extreme example, but not unheard of. What is the stock CR in the NSX? Forged or cast pistons?

 

[The Kid]

Just wanted to say great info on this thread!! Enjoyable and a learning experience all in one :wink:

 

[Bart Geerts]

Remember that modifying the deck heights on a V motor will change the geometry of the timing belt. Adjustable cam gears will be required for any significant changes.

-- Chris

Hi Chris,
thx for the input.
With your 3.3liter pistons, do I need anything else than bigger holes and sleeves?? I mean is the 3.3 liter option stand-alone?
I guess it's a pretty stupid question, I expect to need another ECU since the cm3 has changed for starters... reply pvt if necessary, this might be a commercial answer and off topic. ([email protected])

 

[Bart Geerts]

out !!

 

[goldNSX]

Hi Bart
Congratulations! Must have been quite a hard job. How did it take you?
Greetings,
Thomas

 

[Brian2by2]

Any reason you want to drop the CR? Low CR with big boost works great at the strip, but for normal driving I prefer a relatively high CR with low boost. My race motor is going to be running 4-5 psi on top of 11.1:1 using 100 octane. An extreme example, but not unheard of. What is the stock CR in the NSX? Forged or cast pistons?

10.2:1 i think is the stock compression...and they are cast pistons, not forged. titanium rods though. I may be wrong, but thats just what i recall.

Is the 3.3 just the pistons or do u need a different crank shaft as well?

 

[keene1bj]

anymore pics of the engine out of the car, also can you post pics of the empty engine bay and pics of the undercarriage?


thanks so much

 

[Dave Hardy]

At 10.2:1, I think you'd be fine running 6 psi on 93 Octane, given the efficency of the pentroof combustion chamber. Make sure fueling and tuning are up to par and have at it.

 

[jgtcnsx]

ahh you got it out nice. :smile: did you start takin it apart yet??

 

[Bart Geerts]

not yet... That is my job for today. First get the engine to my hangar, then take it all appart. Here are some more pics that someone asked for... I'll take pics when taking the engine appart for sure. Man, what a fun hobby

 

[jgtcnsx]

i love projects :biggrin:

 

[Dave Hardy]

Looks good. You might want to tie the AC compressor up with some safety wire or some wire ties. Hanging it on the AC lines can cause them to leak.

 

[Bart Geerts]

Looks good. You might want to tie the AC compressor up with some safety wire or some wire ties. Hanging it on the AC lines can cause them to leak.

take a closer look if the picture permits... it's hanging with straps. :smile:

 

[Dave Hardy]

Very good Daniel San...

 

[jlindy]

not yet... That is my job for today. First get the engine to my hangar, then take it all appart. Here are some more pics that someone asked for... I'll take pics when taking the engine appart for sure. Man, what a fun hobby

That scares the crap out of me!

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

The 3.3L pistons (as all aftermarket pistons do) require modification to the connecting rods. Nothing else is needed. The most crucial part of the puzzle is the sleeving of the block. The factory liners are pressed out, and new liners are pressed in. The installation and tolerances are crucial for durability. The crank is unmodified (however, we do micropolish the journals and balance the rotating mass in our stage 3 package). Let me know if you have any questions.

By the way, here's a picture of our engine dolley we use for engine removal (it needs a type-R decal)

Cheers,
-- Chris

Hi Chris,
thx for the input.
With your 3.3liter pistons, do I need anything else than bigger holes and sleeves?? I mean is the 3.3 liter option stand-alone?
I guess it's a pretty stupid question, I expect to need another ECU since the cm3 has changed for starters... reply pvt if necessary, this might be a commercial answer and off topic. ([email protected])