taking engine out

[synergy004]

Bart Geerts,

good job on getting her out. Did you use a lift or the old hard fashioned way of jacks and jack stands?

Thanks
gil

 

[Bart Geerts]

Bart Geerts,

good job on getting her out. Did you use a lift or the old hard fashioned way of jacks and jack stands?

Thanks
gil

no, I'm a lucky guy that can use a lift of a friend of mine. And for taking the engine apart, I can use all the stuff here at the biggest workshop here at my airport. I'm even going to do an eddy current check on the alu parts, I can even clean everything ultra-sone...

 

[Bart Geerts]

The 3.3L pistons (as all aftermarket pistons do) require modification to the connecting rods. Nothing else is needed. The most crucial part of the puzzle is the sleeving of the block. The factory liners are pressed out, and new liners are pressed in. The installation and tolerances are crucial for durability. The crank is unmodified (however, we do micropolish the journals and balance the rotating mass in our stage 3 package). Let me know if you have any questions.

By the way, here's a picture of our engine dolley we use for engine removal (it needs a type-R decal)

Cheers,
-- Chris

1/ modification of the connecting rods. Is that with existing parts or parts made in the field?
2/ Do I understand this right? Only new liners, so the new liners are thinner (to get 95mm)? no need to make the cilindric walls in the alu bigger before installing new liners? do you carry those new liners?
3/ I can use the aircraft-engine overhaul facility here. I'm capable of balancing the crank myself.

thx, Bart

 

[jgtcnsx]

haha nice dolly. i made the same one. seriously it was the best thing i ever made :biggrin:

 

[Bart Geerts]

I just remembered how all-alu engines are normally made by Honda. The liners are kept in place and the liquid alu is poored around it. So the liner is not pressed into an existing lower-block. Doesn't this make a difference when taking the liners out.
Before I get 100 mails saying I'm wrong about the pooring... I know honda engines, but to be honnest I'm just learning more and more about the NSX-engine now.

 

[Bart Geerts]

my work of today :

 

[NSXLuvr]

- we're not worthy, we're not worthy(think Wayne's world)

 

[jgtcnsx]

- we're not worthy, we're not worthy(think Wayne's world)

hahah i agree :wink:

 

[Bart Geerts]

All,
Lower engine block is open and cleaned. Me personally I think that the sleeves are too thin to even think about changing them for a 3.3 liter. Also the alu just next to the sleeves in between the cilinders is very thin as well. I wouldn't feel comfortable making a 3.3 out of it. (I'll make a close up pic for this!)

just my honnest opinion!

 

[xxx]

Bump! :tongue:

 

[Dave Hardy]

Clean that thing while you've got it apart. Normal degreasers and elbow grease will get you a lot of the way there, but for the truley anal have the block and heads walnut shell blasted. It will remove all of the gunk and oxidation, but none of the aluminum. I advise against abrasive blasting, as abrasives + engines = bad. I like clean engine bays. Here's the one in my CRX:

 

[Bart Geerts]

Has been done... just didn't want to 'overpost' pictures. :biggrin: