Sorry, I read through the thread and must've missed that you replaced the plugs. (when you did the coils just looked back, sorry)
Strong hesitation when cold
- Thread starter CL65 Captain
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All of them do not rub... we put these on cars all the time man.
I also mentioned that a motor or the bar needs to "move back and forth" quite a bit in order to rub a vac line... and that the rstb isnt moving.
I also mentioned that mixing your own urethane in a bowl then packing it in a stock motor mount isn’t a good idea and you don’t have a stable motor.
and the vac lines are steel... they do bend.. very easily.. bend right back too... just as easy... the work steel has been used.. yes... steel
my $.01 to defend one of the best NSX parts ever made... both price and performance wise.
To help out a friend.... Jim.... Ive had this problem before... it took almost 1.5-2 years to take my ground wires serious.. they wont throw a cel... it takes 2-3 minutes to turn enough to tighten them.. but your wires will increase corrosion when they are on/off/on/off.
The dirty engine bay..just like mine... makes it worse
Thats my $.02 there
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Just updating this thread. Replaced my small battery (XL16) with my OEM size battery and made sure the connections were tight. Replaced the fuel pump with a new Walbro. Still no change.
Car idles smoothly and runs normal but for the first few minutes of driving it has a slight hesitation occasionally like there is no power (but consistent in that it does it every time when the engine isn't warmed up) for about 5 min and then it drives normal. Leave the house and when I stop at the top of the street its idling at 1000 rpm. Next stop light still 1000 and then every stop there after 800 rpm like normal.
Car idles smoothly and runs normal but for the first few minutes of driving it has a slight hesitation occasionally like there is no power (but consistent in that it does it every time when the engine isn't warmed up) for about 5 min and then it drives normal. Leave the house and when I stop at the top of the street its idling at 1000 rpm. Next stop light still 1000 and then every stop there after 800 rpm like normal.
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Mine hasn't done it for over a year. And frankly, I haven't made any parts changes except for using a normal battery and now it is on a battery tender regularly.
Just curious, do you take about 5 seconds of pause before going to full ignition contact/cranking (from I to II do you pause?). Try that and see if helps.
Just curious, do you take about 5 seconds of pause before going to full ignition contact/cranking (from I to II do you pause?). Try that and see if helps.
I do. Usually one click on the ignition, turn and put the seat belt on, then start. Doesn't matter. Most of the time I start the car, let it idle for one cigarette (smoke in the garage, never in the car) and then go. So the car actually sits and idles for about 5 minutes. But it still does it until the car is warm. BTW: It's engine temp not water temp because if I go into the store for 15-20 minutes and come out the water temp will still show warm, but the car has the slight hesitation for a few minutes while driving and then back to normal.
My next step (which is cheap) is to replace the hose on the bottom of this pic. Justin at SourceOne just cut it at the point where the hole was and put it back so it's a bit shorter and I'm wondering if the bend is now too severe and restricting the vacuum. What is that thing it goes to anyway?
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I do. Usually one click on the ignition, turn and put the seat belt on, then start. Doesn't matter. Most of the time I start the car, let it idle for one cigarette (smoke in the garage, never in the car) and then go. So the car actually sits and idles for about 5 minutes. But it still does it until the car is warm. BTW: It's engine temp not water temp because if I go into the store for 15-20 minutes and come out the water temp will still show warm, but the car has the slight hesitation for a few minutes while driving and then back to normal.
My next step (which is cheap) is to replace the hose on the bottom of this pic. Justin at SourceOne just cut it at the point where the hole was and put it back so it's a bit shorter and I'm wondering if the bend is now too severe and restricting the vacuum. What is that thing it goes to anyway?
That line is a vacuum line and would not cause the problem mentioned. Vacuum is on or off... it would be difficult to have it pinch and then flow... since your noticing idle issues.
your still mentioning all the symptoms of ground issues. Still trying to pay attention to the wrong characteristics. Jim… This is a PITA and its exactly what I went through… cant chase a ghost..
While ur ground was on - then off - then on -then off for a long period of time. IMO.. Corrosion has corrupted the line and one would go crazy trying to figure that out… the loss of power is the ecu pulling timing away then correcting itself when the ground signal does.
You have your grounds connected... yes. But corrosion most likely is causing the mixed signal. Corrosion in the line itself finally had to replace all lines with new Honda lines and di-electric grease on all connections. While filing all mounting location.
You talk to tidave... call him
I went through this… I also mentioned… I had to take my grounds seriously… which is where I would start with in your case.
good luck
Ross, how many ground wires are there? The only thing I can find is 32600-SL0-003 the ground wire that connects from the terminal to the frame.
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Wouldn't the grounds "stay warm" when the car only sits for 15-20min? Not discounting the info at all, just trying to think out loud. This stuff kills me too.
ck pm
grounds dont need to be warm.. they need good conectivity w/o corrosion
There are about 5 main ground wires in the NSX but don't quote me! I am not near my repair book. There is one that goes from the battery to the rear of the car. One under the center console. One that goes from the tranny to the rear bulkhead behind the coolant tank. One on the igniter. Possibly another by the fuel pump.
I'd remove lightly sand, cover with the proper grease and retighten.
I'd remove lightly sand, cover with the proper grease and retighten.
Update:
Replaced the 3 main ground wires with new ones. The one to the battery and the two in the engine compartment.
No dice. Still have the hesitation for the first few minutes of driving.
It's not bad, doesn't stumble or run rough, just feels like it's pulling timing or something. Does it consistently for the first 5 minutes or so and then runs like normal.
Replaced the 3 main ground wires with new ones. The one to the battery and the two in the engine compartment.
No dice. Still have the hesitation for the first few minutes of driving.
It's not bad, doesn't stumble or run rough, just feels like it's pulling timing or something. Does it consistently for the first 5 minutes or so and then runs like normal.
No CEL
Hesitation during steady state cruising, not under acceleration or load.
Only happens when the engine is cold (first few min)
Consistent every time I drive the car for the first few min.
I'm hesitant to throw more money ($280) for an ignitor when that's usually a heat/load related symptom.
R
Can u borrow the ignitor from someone local to test it? Just to test, aint gonna hurt nothin.
No CEL
Hesitation during steady state cruising, not under acceleration or load.
Only happens when the engine is cold (first few min)
Consistent every time I drive the car for the first few min.
I'm hesitant to throw more money ($280) for an ignitor when that's usually a heat/load related symptom.
Can u borrow the ignitor from someone local to test it? Just to test, aint gonna hurt nothin.
Jim, when you note OEM "size" battery, can you identify the cold cranking power? When Shad replaced my Odyssey battery, he used the highest cold cranking that he could find.
I think the offers been made already by davidf. These are available on eBay now for $30.
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640 cca
That's it. Should be cheap to ship from davidf. Worth a try.
i have an extra igniter from my NSX doomsday stash of extra parts. I can send you mine to try if you need it as well.
Since part of the issue seems to be associated with low initial voltage - and cold weather affects this - perhaps the battery capacity may be at issue.
Shad installed this one 24REXTJ which has 700 cold cranking amperage. I know what the OEM manual says, but perhaps the additional 60 amperage does solve the issue. But it is heavy - helps with lower the cg and the front can use some weight :wink:
Update - replaced the TW Sensor.
No change.
Here is what has been done to date:
Replaced both primary O2s.
Replaced fuel pump resistor
Replaced fuel pump with Walbro
Replaced all 6 coils and new spark-plugs
Replaced ignitor
Replaced battery (small one with OEM size)
Replaced ground wires
Replaced TW Sensor
Ran Techron fuel cleaner - empty-full tank-empty
No change.
Here is what has been done to date:
Replaced both primary O2s.
Replaced fuel pump resistor
Replaced fuel pump with Walbro
Replaced all 6 coils and new spark-plugs
Replaced ignitor
Replaced battery (small one with OEM size)
Replaced ground wires
Replaced TW Sensor
Ran Techron fuel cleaner - empty-full tank-empty
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Update here too! A few weeks ago and after my post above, it happened to me yet again out of the blue and after almost a year of no issues. Battery was on tender so definitely not a battery issue.
Shad explained to me the issue of vacuum hose #4 and I saw the fix he did given the CTSC. The short of it is vacuum hose #4 has U shape to it around the bottom of the engine area. This, we think, is trapping the vacuum. So he designed another route to ease this "potential" by splicing and another connection. Might work; we shall see.
Now "if" he was a marketing wiz/guru, he would make a kit packaged with full 3 pages of instructions and pictures and sell it for $49.99 :tongue:
Shad explained to me the issue of vacuum hose #4 and I saw the fix he did given the CTSC. The short of it is vacuum hose #4 has U shape to it around the bottom of the engine area. This, we think, is trapping the vacuum. So he designed another route to ease this "potential" by splicing and another connection. Might work; we shall see.
Now "if" he was a marketing wiz/guru, he would make a kit packaged with full 3 pages of instructions and pictures and sell it for $49.99 :tongue:
How about a pic of said #4 location please! :biggrin:
I know where #4 is but can't visualize the area you're referring to
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