STMPO race products - New product offering - NSX Front Chassis Reinforcement Bar

[StmpoRaceProducts]

I knew you were selling me crap... LOL

so you don't think there is more of a chance of "flex" because the plates are being squeezed together where there is no bar? Are the plates that stiff? Could it seriously go up higher if we are willing to make cuts in the shroud?

On the plates... yes they are very stiff.. They bolt in three locations and we "mimicked" the oem style by welding a second tab for additional strength that hits two of the mounting locations... see image below.



As far as moving the bar higher....

Actually no.. I dont think it would make a difference and we did drive a car in above, middle, and below locations. The conclusion was simple... but pertains to where the chassis itself needed improvements.

The ideal location to add major chassis stiffness to any car would be begin at the shock towers and then connecting the other suspension mounting points to it and the frame. This is the goal for a complete cage.

The FCB connects the two frame rails at the furthest point in front of all the shock towers and mounting locations... the fact that the front of the car has had the 4th leg of a complete rectangle (firewall, 2 frame rails, FCB) connected is where the benefit is capitalized.

To answer your past question... there are many options up front (not just a FSTB) that could increase the chassis stiffness rather than move the bar location...

Give me a buzz and I'll go over our available custom designs that could fit what you are after.
Regards

 

[StmpoRaceProducts]

Shouldn't that read "I had mine installed" since your too much of a fairy/b*tch to install anything yourself:tongue:

Actually Dave it's the same spot where our Type R bars were before so this must be pretty much the optimal spot for the bar.

Also hey Ross how is that other front strut brace coming??

It's going ok... another "how do you make something appealing to everyone scenario"

We are waiting on the brackets at the cnc shop.... should be soon... slaes generated right now are going to the cause... so tell your buddies to get some gear so we can launch about 5 new products....

Regards

 

[TURBO2GO]

Shouldn't that read "I had mine installed" since your too much of a fairy/b*tch to install anything yourself:tongue:

You mean install my own like you installed your own stereo? with that hideous plate? They should ban you from working on any NSX ever.

And the R bar, which is still on my car, is like a foot higher up. What do you mean "same location"?

 

[StmpoRaceProducts]

You mean install my own like you installed your own stereo? with that hideous plate? They should ban you from working on any NSX ever.

And the R bar, which is still on my car, is like a foot higher up. What do you mean "same location"?

It's a foot higher up so you can remove it easily... sell the set for 300.00... and then you can stiffen up the rear the for only 300.00 bucks more on our RSTB.. :smile:

I think we can all trust cl65Captains opinion here... a guy who hits the track in double digit track events annually

I'm a step ahead of you. I first mounted the front bar and was impressed when driving up the driveway how the car never flexes. Then this week, I mounted the rear engine bay bar. BIG DIFFERENCE! It was 42 degrees and I took the top off for a quick spin just to see.... HUGE!

I'm not one of those "butt dyno" guys, and I have been disappointed many, many times chucking out $$$ because of reviews that I have read on Prime where they raved about something or another only to find out the change was minor or psychosomatic. I can say - adding the rear bar made a bigger change that adding the front. Both together is not a minor "I think it improved it a little" change - it's the real deal!

 

[TURBO2GO]

It's a foot higher up so you can remove it easily... sell the set for 300.00... and then you can stiffen up the rear the for only 300.00 bucks more on our RSTB.. :smile:

I think we can all trust cl65Captains opinion here... a guy who hits the track in double digit track events annually

Are you saying the R bar is now useless? what about the other part that fits on the bottom?

 

[CL65 Captain]

Are you saying the R bar is now useless? what about the other part that fits on the bottom?

Dave I left my Type R bar on the bottom on as it was already installed.

I can say that switching the front type R bar to Ross' bar made a significant difference. Ross asked me if I noticed it on the track? As I told him, I was too busy chasing a Carrera GT to even think about it. :tongue: Winter time hasn't let me get out on the track lately. But I can tell you that when I go up my driveway the car no longer flexes which it did (noticeably) when I had the type R bar.

 

[FXMDBilly]

Support the cause: FXMD to Australia

Buy the STMPO bar here at a discounted price (while the offer lasts) and know you are supporting our effort to compete against the World in Australia in May:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132626


Billy

 

[TURBO2GO]

Guys I already have the bar. I just was wondering if I should take the R bar off. And if so both pieces or just one. Or if its not worth it just leave them on.

 

[FXMDBilly]

Guys I already have the bar. I just was wondering if I should take the R bar off. And if so both pieces or just one. Or if its not worth it just leave them on.

Having the R bar on there isn't hurting anything. It dosnt' weigh that much and if you're lazy, just leave it on. If you wanna sell it and make $300 - so the rear bar will only cost you $250 on that link, or save 10-14lbs and get a STMPO aluminum rear bumper, then go for it!

I don't think there will be a noticeable difference if you take the R bar off.


Billy

 

[StmpoRaceProducts]

Guys I already have the bar. I just was wondering if I should take the R bar off. And if so both pieces or just one. Or if its not worth it just leave them on.

I'm with billy... my comment of selling the type r bars was relative to the "total driving experience"... for example

1) A targa NSX with STMPO FCB + Type R bars + 300.00 in your pocket = Your current set up with a stiff front end and finacial freedom while driving through town

2) A targa NSX with STMPO FCB + STMPO RSTB - type r bars - 300.00 bucks = A cost effective way to improve the performance substantially. Plus...Depending on the denomonation of the 300 bucks... there could be a great deal of weight savings if there are a lot of 5's and 1's....

3) A targa NSX with STMPO FCB + STMPO RSTB +Type R bars - 550.00 in your pocket = The exspensive way to accomplish example 2


to qoute Tidave... More is not always better.... more is always more though.

The front of your NSX has exsperienced an increase in rigidity... my advice would be to take the next step and increase rigidity in the center of your NSX

You will feel the difference everytime you drive your car... or your money back!

Regards

 

[TURBO2GO]

I'm with billy... my comment of selling the type r bars was relative to the "total driving experience"... for example

1) A targa NSX with STMPO FCB + Type R bars + 300.00 in your pocket = Your current set up with a stiff front end and finacial freedom while driving through town

2) A targa NSX with STMPO FCB + STMPO RSTB - type r bars - 300.00 bucks = A cost effective way to improve the performance substantially. Plus...Depending on the denomonation of the 300 bucks... there could be a great deal of weight savings if there are a lot of 5's and 1's....

3) A targa NSX with STMPO FCB + STMPO RSTB +Type R bars - 550.00 in your pocket = The exspensive way to accomplish example 2


to qoute Tidave... More is not always better.... more is always more though.

The front of your NSX has exsperienced an increase in rigidity... my advice would be to take the next step and increase rigidity in the center of your NSX

You will feel the difference everytime you drive your car... or your money back!

Regards

What about the bar that goes underneat? This one:

The second part of the R bar? doesn't that do anything anymore? obviously it was a weak point for Honda to make a bar for it? Should I have just had both of them removed when the FCB went it? These two sell for $330. So used, I'd have to sell for $200. Then I have to pay the mechanic to lift the car, take them off, that is at least $100. That will net me $100. If its useless now, then $100 is $100. If its doing something, then is it worth keeping it there for $100?

As for the RSTB you guys keep hounding me on.... I am heistant because I want to get something that will fit over an intercooled CTSC. I don't think this will clear as is. That Laminova intercooler looks pretty cool.

As for the bumper beam, I already have it. Just haven't put it on yet. I bought it despite the fact that mine is aluminum anyway. I'm looking at just a few pounds of weight savings. Eagerly awaiting the front beam Ross!

 

[WingZ]

What about the bar that goes underneat? This one:

The second part of the R bar? doesn't that do anything anymore? obviously it was a weak point for Honda to make a bar for it? Should I have just had both of them removed when the FCB went it? These two sell for $330. So used, I'd have to sell for $200. Then I have to pay the mechanic to lift the car, take them off, that is at least $100. That will net me $100. If its useless now, then $100 is $100. If its doing something, then is it worth keeping it there for $100?

As for the RSTB you guys keep hounding me on.... I am heistant because I want to get something that will fit over an intercooled CTSC. I don't think this will clear as is. That Laminova intercooler looks pretty cool.

As for the bumper beam, I already have it. Just haven't put it on yet. I bought it despite the fact that mine is aluminum anyway. I'm looking at just a few pounds of weight savings. Eagerly awaiting the front beam Ross!

LOL He probably hasn't responded because he can't believe you paid someone $100 for like 10 mins work:biggrin: Dude as you can see in the pic it's two bolts .. just two.

Do you have a jack? It's this thing in the back of the car that can be used to change a tire. Jack up one front wheel remove one bolt with a metric socket wrench ( looks like a 14 ) then remove the other. Flip it over and pull it out. If that sounds too difficult get one of those half naked hotties of yours to do it for you while you read the instructions:wink:

Personally I would leave it on till Ross comes up with a replacement then follow the instructions above.

 

[TURBO2GO]

LOL He probably hasn't responded because he can't believe you paid someone $100 for like 10 mins work:biggrin: Dude as you can see in the pic it's two bolts .. just two.

Do you have a jack? It's this thing in the back of the car that can be used to change a tire. Jack up one front wheel remove one bolt with a metric socket wrench ( looks like a 14 ) then remove the other. Flip it over and pull it out. If that sounds too difficult get one of those half naked hotties of yours to do it for you while you read the instructions:wink:

Personally I would leave it on till Ross comes up with a replacement then follow the instructions above.

Yes that one is easy to pull but the upper one is not that easy. I guess next time I'm in there, or my car is at the shop I will have them both pulled since I guess neither makes a difference with the STMPO in there. Then I will just sell them. I am still not 100% sure that even the bottom one makes no difference anymore. Ross are they both a waste now? If that is the case maybe I will pull both.

 

[StmpoRaceProducts]

Yes that one is easy to pull but the upper one is not that easy. I guess next time I'm in there, or my car is at the shop I will have them both pulled since I guess neither makes a difference with the STMPO in there. Then I will just sell them. I am still not 100% sure that even the bottom one makes no difference anymore. Ross are they both a waste now? If that is the case maybe I will pull both.

sorry it took so long to answer this...

I guess it's hard to answer this since my personal modification theory over the past 7 years with my daily driver NSX has always been value for what you get.

If there were a couple parts I needed but one of them could be sold to help pay for the replacement... with the ending result netting a positive.. I did it before the others.

I would actually view the upgrade on the cost of what left my pocket. So when I had a bilstien/zanardi shock set up... I sold them for 600.00 to buy buddy clubs for 900.00... I bought coilovers for 300.00 bucks.

If you have a sc and want to go turbo... your ecu stays the same, you get to sell your charger/cats/test pipes/exhaust/airbox/ext to "upgrade to it".

You could potentially upgrade for zero cost if you plan it right.

Then there is the crazy part fluctuation... which is crazy. 6-7 years ago stock airboxes sold for nothing since people were removing them to add a k&n filter. A couple years later everyone realizes that hurt their system rather than increased it... and you can sell stock airboxes for 200.00 bucks.

The opposite is the bumper example. I designed that part because years ago I could sell the aluminum bumper for 650-750 bucks (I did... twice) Last year I tried to sell the others I had for 300-400 unsuccessfully. Now I make one even lighter for 360.00.

We sold over 150 FCB's so far and today I can post a customer’s type-r bars for 300.00 bucks and they sell the same day. We crack up laughing here when it happens. One day they will actually come in and when we remove them we'll probably toss them in the scrap bin.

If that doesn’t make much sense... here is a different way to look at it... pretend it is 20 years ago and I'm telling you to trade your Bo Jackson rookie for the Mark McGuire USA Olympic card..... lol

Regards

 

[TURBO2GO]

LOL....

Ross, how about just yes or no:

Does the bottom R bar make ANY difference now that the FCB is in place?

That's all I want to know. McGwire got busted on roids and Bo Jackson played 2 sports. Ask me which card is worth more and I have no idea.You are confusing me with your space-time continum and trick way to upgrade theories... :biggrin:

 

[StmpoRaceProducts]

LOL....

Ross, how about just yes or no:

Does the bottom R bar make ANY difference now that the FCB is in place?

That's all I want to know. McGwire got busted on roids and Bo Jackson played 2 sports. Ask me which card is worth more and I have no idea.You are confusing me with your space-time continum and trick way to upgrade theories... :biggrin:

lol... the lower bar helps and the top bar is pretty

 

[Texas91Brent]

lol... the lower bar helps and the top bar is pretty

I think its time for R&D on a lower brace.....Ross make me a lower piece like your upper piece, but not aluminum......Make the car rock solid tight and safe.
Maybe its overkill, but I am willing to try the lower piece. Now if someone could design a roll bar for a targa that wasnt ugly as hell, I might be down for that too

 

[Racerxjling]

Just installed the STMPO chassis bar. It fit like a glove. I haven't had a chance to test drive it yet as car is down due to other work being done on it. Will report back when I have a chance for a test drive.

Jeff

 

[Cozmo]

I think this is the coolest product you guys have ever made that I've seen. I can't wait to get one. :wink:

 

[StmpoRaceProducts]

For those always asking about type r bars... and the benefits they provide.

We finally had a complete set to compare weight with.

Type R bars retain the factory tie down brackets... if you remove them... your frame rails are unprotected along with no tie down location in case of a tow.

100% functional Type r bars (upper and lower) + tie down brackets + hardware = 9.6 lbs

100% functional STMPO FCB + Hardware = 6.6lbs

There you have it... The numbers don’t lie... the STMPO FCB weighs 3 lbs lighter than Type - R bars do... and the NSX chassis receives a more notable amount of reinforcement as well.

Regards

 

[UnhuZ]

^ very good... excellent... but don't forget that the NSX-R bars are 2... yours only replace the front one... will you make one to replace the lower on, under the battery undercover?

 

[WingZ]

Not to bust the bubble but doesn't everyone take the tow hooks off when installing the R bars.

 

[StmpoRaceProducts]

^ very good... excellent... but don't forget that the NSX-R bars are 2... yours only replace the front one... will you make one to replace the lower on, under the battery undercover?

lol... true... but to qoute ti-dave yet again... "more is always more"

Type r bars also have more brackets, more hardware, more bends, more pieces....ect ect

a one piece design with a much more ridgid material doesnt mean that it needs the same amount of bars or mounting locations to provide a greater benifit.

Just my $.02

on the lower bar... our current r&d has built a replacement for the entire lower set up.... it will replace the battery tray and the same time lkower chassis support.

It will also have mounting locations for an undertray/splitter.

we will say it again... if we dont move parts that are figured out already... you wont see new ones :wink:

Regards

 

[UnhuZ]

you are right... one piece design is always more rigid than multi piece with brackets and stuff.... but the thing is that the NSX-R bars are in different locations attaching to different chassi points...

but...

... your new design for the bottom makes me curious.... :tongue:

about selling what you already have made, i agree with you... you need to convert parts to cash so you can keep the development of new parts... and i wish my wallet filled as fast as my will to buy stuff.... you will have a customer here for the bars, but man, i can only ask you some patient waiting for me :wink:

for now, you have 3 bars that i want:
- rear strut for the coupe
- front chassi
- front strut (keeps driver wiper working)

and it seems that you will have a 4th that i will want also:
- front lower chassi

man..... i just got to take a deep breath

Nuno

 

[WingZ]

you are right... one piece design is always more rigid than multi piece with brackets and stuff.... but the thing is that the NSX-R bars are in different locations attaching to different chassi points...

but...

... your new design for the bottom makes me curious.... :tongue:

about selling what you already have made, i agree with you... you need to convert parts to cash so you can keep the development of new parts... and i wish my wallet filled as fast as my will to buy stuff.... you will have a customer here for the bars, but man, i can only ask you some patient waiting for me :wink:

for now, you have 3 bars that i want:
- rear strut for the coupe
- front chassi
- front strut (keeps driver wiper working)

and it seems that you will have a 4th that i will want also:
- front lower chassi

man..... i just got to take a deep breath

Nuno

Time to spend as your holding up future development if you don't:biggrin: