Done: See post 8.
It seems everything on the road is getting bigger and we are getting harder to see. My search has turned up empty except a couple of threads on how many red/black wires you need to interrupt with switches to get the clock, dash, radio, and climate control to high intensity while still driving with your running lights on, which seems like a lot of wiring changes, not to mention the cig lighter, ashtray, and glove box lights.
(Here in Canada, motorcycles have to run with their headlights and tail lights on all the time; there is no switch. I notice them, so I do the same. This works fine because my other cars can adjust the dash and instruments to full brightness even with the running lights on during the day.)
What I would like to add is sort of a "super DRL", with the front DRL and rear running lights on with the ignition for greater visibility, without dimming the radio, climate control, clock, cc-set indicator, lighter, glovebox lights etc by turning on the running lights. Has anyone already performed this modification or know how to do it efficiently?
For the front, I plan to run @centerpunch mod from the fusebox to make white DRL's with switchback LED's in the front turn signal housings, that work as amber signals, but illuminate white as DRL's otherwise. For the back, it looks like I could repin F4 in connector C407 to ingition-on from the underdash fuse panel could do it, but that connector looks hard to access. F8 in C241 would be easier to access but finding ignition-on supply that could handle adding another few amps (brake/tails are LED) would be the challenge - perhaps run it all the way from the left fuse box? @drew is an expert in repinning connectors - done anything similar?
Thanks in advance for any insights.
It seems everything on the road is getting bigger and we are getting harder to see. My search has turned up empty except a couple of threads on how many red/black wires you need to interrupt with switches to get the clock, dash, radio, and climate control to high intensity while still driving with your running lights on, which seems like a lot of wiring changes, not to mention the cig lighter, ashtray, and glove box lights.
(Here in Canada, motorcycles have to run with their headlights and tail lights on all the time; there is no switch. I notice them, so I do the same. This works fine because my other cars can adjust the dash and instruments to full brightness even with the running lights on during the day.)
What I would like to add is sort of a "super DRL", with the front DRL and rear running lights on with the ignition for greater visibility, without dimming the radio, climate control, clock, cc-set indicator, lighter, glovebox lights etc by turning on the running lights. Has anyone already performed this modification or know how to do it efficiently?
For the front, I plan to run @centerpunch mod from the fusebox to make white DRL's with switchback LED's in the front turn signal housings, that work as amber signals, but illuminate white as DRL's otherwise. For the back, it looks like I could repin F4 in connector C407 to ingition-on from the underdash fuse panel could do it, but that connector looks hard to access. F8 in C241 would be easier to access but finding ignition-on supply that could handle adding another few amps (brake/tails are LED) would be the challenge - perhaps run it all the way from the left fuse box? @drew is an expert in repinning connectors - done anything similar?
Best DRL solution - looks OEM - easy under-hood connection, converts turn signals to white DRL / amber turn
WARNING: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU OR YOUR CAR EXPLODE. IF YOU DON'T HAVE EXTENSIVE EXPERIENCE WITH AUTOMOTIVE ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS, PLEASE STOP READING NOW. I'm a believer in DRLs, especially on silver cars that can blend in with the background on overcast days. I searched here and found...
www.nsxprime.com
Thanks in advance for any insights.
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