Remove the dash board, how hard is it?

[carmar]

For all the DIYers out there, how hard is it to remove the dash board to get access the A/C expansion valve?

I am thinking of replacing my A/C evarporator, expansion valve, dryer and reiver and upgrade the system to R134.

Or should I leave this job to the professional?

 

[CL65 Captain]

Not hard at all. Just a lot of work and a lot of screws.

One tip.... I get 5 or 6 little zip lock baggies and label each one (under dash, glove box, center console, instrument cluster, etc.) and put the screws from each section in each bag as I go. That way when it comes time to put everything back you are looking at 6-8 screws in each bag instead of 100 screws in one big bag or cup. :wink:

 

[nsxinohio]

like he said, it is really not hard. prolly do it in an afternoon. does require a little bit of crwaling on ur back under dash to get to few screws but rest are easy. make sure you do not just yank on stuff bc the dash is rather flimsy and can crack

 

[carmar]

CL65_Captain, thanks for the tip.

 

[carmar]

make sure you do not just yank on stuff bc the dash is rather flimsy and can crack

nsxinohio, thanks for the advice. how long did it take you?

 

[nsxinohio]

prolly an afternoon. like he said just make sure u keep stuff seperated. i always put the screws back in the spots after i remove the pieces. that way i know excatly where they fit

 

[ENSSEX]

not bad remove the seats MUCH easier

 

[asylum]

Follow the service manual for the screw positions and disassembly sequence. And take your time...

 

[carmar]

Follow the service manual for the screw positions and disassembly sequence. And take your time...
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wow, thanks for the pic, asylum

 

[Briank]

To do the evaporator it's a 8 hour job for a skilled person, for compentent do it yourselfer figure 14 hours.

 

[DutchBlackNsx]

I did it last week (again). Put screws back where you took them out from.

Worst part is getting the heater unit out, which can be a real PITA when some butcher installed an aftermarket alarmsystem.

Workorder:

- Glovebox
- clock
- centreconsole
- radio
- CCU
- Both sidevents
- Lower steeringcolumn
- Gauge unit
- A/C / coolingwater / valve conections under bonnet
- Blower motor
- Nuts from heaterunit
- 2 screws on both sides behind the removed sidevents
- 2 screws which hold the dash in place inbetween the seats (PITA).
- 1 screw in the center of the console below radiomount

That should be about it, additions/workorderchanges are welcome.

Oh, and btw, if i remember correctly, the manual states to remove the seats. Dont bother.

 

[carmar]

To do the evaporator it's a 8 hour job for a skilled person, for compentent do it yourselfer figure 14 hours.

Briank, thanks for a head up. can i skip the evaporator and change only the expansion valve and the dryer/receiver?

 

[carmar]

I did it last week (again). Put screws back where you took them out from.

Workorder:

- Glovebox
- clock
- centreconsole
- radio
- CCU
- Both sidevents
- Lower steeringcolumn
- Gauge unit
- A/C / coolingwater / valve conections under bonnet
- Blower motor
- Nuts from heaterunit
- 2 screws on both sides behind the removed sidevents
- 2 screws which hold the dash in place inbetween the seats (PITA).
- 1 screw in the center of the console below radiomount

That should be about it, additions/workorderchanges are welcome.

Oh, and btw, if i remember correctly, the manual states to remove the seats. Dont bother.

DutchBlackNsx, this is great tip, thanks.

 

[drew]

can i skip the evaporator and change only the expansion valve and the dryer/receiver?

Yes, you can. There is an access hole through the heater blower.

If there is a leak in that area, you will likely have to replace the evap.


I actually prefer to remove the seats...gives you a bit more room that was very useful.

I also lubed up the contact points on the front of the dash with shin etzu grease. Keeps the squeaks to a minimum.

Drew

 

[carmar]

Yes, you can. There is an access hole through the heater blower.

Drew

Thanks, Drew.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

For all the DIYers out there, how hard is it to remove the dash board to get access the A/C expansion valve?

I am thinking of replacing my A/C evarporator, expansion valve, dryer and reiver and upgrade the system to R134.

Or should I leave this job to the professional?

If you do not need to replace the evaporator, the expansion valve is accessed through the fan housing in the front bay behind the spare tire, and the receiver/dryer is also up front with the hi/low valves for the 134a conversion. Hate to see you pull the dash if you do not need to.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[carmar]

If you do not need to replace the evaporator, the expansion valve is accessed through the fan housing in the front bay behind the spare tire, and the receiver/dryer is also up front with the hi/low valves for the 134a conversion. Hate to see you pull the dash if you do not need to.

HTH,
LarryB

Larry, thanks for the tip. This is great.

I will try your suggestion first and see if the expansion valve is the culprit :biggrin:.

 

[carmar]

I changed the expansion valve by getting access to the blower hole (thanks for the tip Larry) but my A/C is not working.

Notice, a lot of oil dripping under the evarporator hole under the bonet.

So I decided to order the evaporator and spend a whole day pulling out the dash board. That was fun :tongue: !!!.

The new evaporator is replaced and ready to go back to the dash.

I am thinking of flushing out the A/C system just to ensure everything is clean since the old evaporator had alot of oil and dirt.

Has anyone done this before "flushing the system"? I am thinking just blowing dry air from my "air" compressor to one of the suction or receiver line to ensure all the oil and dirt are pushed out of the system?

Thanks in advance,

 

[Big_D]

Wow, you guys have major cajones to pull the dash yourself. Just make sure you don't forget to plug everything back in...:smile: I think I would rather work overtime and let my tech do it. Or smash my hand in the car door. LOL

 

[Paul Boz]

Yanking a dash is definitely a big job but its not hard, just time consuming.

A word of advice: Drop the steering wheel column and remove the seats. It will make the job significantly easier. I recently fully restored the interior in my Mr2 turbo down to bare chassis and the dash was honestly not the hardest part. For keeping inventory of various nuts and bolts I use a small compartmentalized tackle box found at Wal Mart or any other sporting goods store.

 

[goldNSX]

Notice, a lot of oil dripping under the evarporator hole under the bonet.

Did it look like this?

I did some additional testing and am pretty sure that only the o-rings are leaking. So no need to change the evap.

BTW: The manual states lowering/dismounting the sterring wheel? True/false?

 

[carmar]

Did it look like this?

I did some additional testing and am pretty sure that only the o-rings are leaking. So no need to change the evap.

BTW: The manual states lowering/dismounting the sterring wheel? True/false?

According to your picture, my car does not have the dye around the connection between the A/C pipe and evaporator. However, when I remove the connection the pipes were very dirty with particles on them and the evaporator was dirty with alot of oil on it.

I suspect my evaporator was clogged up. It is time for me to change to the new one anyway, since I already bought it.

Yes, you need to lowering/dismounting the steering wheel in order to remove the dash.

 

[drew]

I did some additional testing and am pretty sure that only the o-rings are leaking. So no need to change the evap.

goldNSX

You can replace those o-rings easily enough....do not R&R the dash for those.

The evap fails at a tight bend where the coil starts. The bend is needless and I was strongly considering making up a custom evap without the bend.

Yes, you MUST drop the steering wheel. Make sure you cover it with cloth and tape. Also tape up and protect the e-brake so you do not damage the boot during R&R.

Drew

 

[goldNSX]

goldNSX
You can replace those o-rings easily enough....do not R&R the dash for those.

Thanks. Yes, I'll replace the o-rings without removing the dashboard. I was just asking for the case the o-rings do not solve the problem.

 

[angus]

I did it last week (again). Put screws back where you took them out from.

Worst part is getting the heater unit out, which can be a real PITA when some butcher installed an aftermarket alarmsystem.

Workorder:

- Glovebox
- clock
- centreconsole
- radio
- CCU
- Both sidevents
- Lower steeringcolumn
- Gauge unit
- A/C / coolingwater / valve conections under bonnet
- Blower motor
- Nuts from heaterunit
- 2 screws on both sides behind the removed sidevents
- 2 screws which hold the dash in place inbetween the seats (PITA).
- 1 screw in the center of the console below radiomount

That should be about it, additions/workorderchanges are welcome.

Oh, and btw, if i remember correctly, the manual states to remove the seats. Dont bother.

If I am just changing the dash itself , do I need to remove the heater box? Disconnect the a/c and water connections under hood?