Rear Wheel Stud Removal / Hub Removal

[NSXCessive]

Wondering if anyone can help...

I recently upgraded my wheels and I now have an 8mm Ring on the rears. So to be on the safe side I ordered longer studs for an extra 5.5mm longer over stock.

Problem I'm having is, I can easily remove the wheel studs, but they get caught between the hub base. Anyone know what needs to be done to remove the studs? I think I have to disassemble the hib assy into its 2 pieces then able to remove the studs?

Thanks,

 

[Steve]

Check the manual in the faq section. I do believe you will have to remove the hub. The next problem you will have if you do not remove the hub is the new studs. If you do not somewhat press them in from the back, you will not be able to get the lugs on without the new stud spinning freely. They will push out the back and the splines will not catch unless they are pressed in firmly from behind. I don't think you will be able to do this without removing the hub.

 

[D'Ecosse]

Need to remove the hub for sure - I replaced a single stock-length stud, which was not a trivial task but ended up managing somehow. With a longer stud it will be impossible, I'm confident of that.
Removing the rear hub is not for the faint-hearted either - the main hub nut is a 36mm & torqued to something like 260lbs. You will need an impact wrench to remove it, then try to borrow a torque wrench at that rating for the re-assembly.
My advice would be to have a shop do it!

 

[NSX 3.0]

Check out Dan's website.

http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fronthub/stud/studs.htm

 

[Yellow Rose]

NO NO NO !!!

You do not have to remove the rear hub. When I installed Brembos I ordered longer studs from Honda. I don't recall, they are either factory Civic or Prelude studs. With a Dremel tool, I shaved just enough metal (1 or 2mm) off of the carrier to allow insertion of the longer stud.

 

[D'Ecosse]

Check out Dan's website.

http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fronthub/stud/studs.htm

That is only good for the fronts - rear is different proposition entirely.

 

[Yellow Rose]

That is only good for the fronts - rear is different proposition entirely.

Not true. I replaced all twenty wheel studs without removing the front nor the rear hub carrier. Trust me, if there was a way to not deal with that 260 (or whatever the actual value is) FT-LB nut on the rear axle, I found it via Mr. Dremel's invention.

 

[NSXCessive]

Damn... this turned out to be more work then I imagined! Looks like I have to remove the whole rear hub assy, and then take it to a machine shop and have them pull the speed sensor, and wheel bearing to gain access to the wheel studs...

I'll post more as I dig deeper into this...

 

[NSXCessive]

Re: NO NO NO !!!

You do not have to remove the rear hub. When I installed Brembos I ordered longer studs from Honda. I don't recall, they are either factory Civic or Prelude studs. With a Dremel tool, I shaved just enough metal (1 or 2mm) off of the carrier to allow insertion of the longer stud.

Ok so how did you get the old ones out? As they come in contact with the bottom of the hub assy....

 

[D'Ecosse]

That is only good for the fronts - rear is different proposition entirely.

Not true. I replaced all twenty wheel studs without removing the front nor the rear hub carrier. Trust me, if there was a way to not deal with that 260 (or whatever the actual value is) FT-LB nut on the rear axle, I found it via Mr. Dremel's invention.

I appreciate your inventiveness Andy - the statement I made regarding Dano's procedure is true - that procedure (as written) is only good for the fronts. Removal of the rear hub is not the same as the fronts (but I know you know that).
That takes nothing away from your new procedure involving relief of material to allow the old stud to slip out/new one to be inserted. I think perhaps you maybe need to explain a little more detail for the general audience as to how to accomplish that , although I understand exactly what you've done. For the fronts however, it's pretty easy to remove the hub, so I'd probably choose removal over dremeling at that end. No question, 100% agreement in not having to remove rear hub with your creative solution!

 

[Yellow Rose]

Clarification

Yikes, what a faux pas!

When I said not true, I didn't mean that DanO's procedure is not correct, it is. What I meant to say is that hubs do not have to come off of the car. My apology to DanO if he thought I was second guessing his procedure.....I definitely was not intending this.

With the car in the air and wheel off, you can rotate the axle to allow the new stud to almost fit passed the carrier. If I recall correctly, the carrier has a couple of "indentations" that almost provide enough clearance to install the studs. I ground out 1 to 2mm of "relief to allow the studs to pass. Rotate axle to bring the next hole into place and insert another stud.

 

[1TITENSX]

Re: Clarification

Yikes, what a faux pas!

When I said not true, I didn't mean that DanO's procedure is not correct, it is. What I meant to say is that hubs do not have to come off of the car. My apology to DanO if he thought I was second guessing his procedure.....I definitely was not intending this.

With the car in the air and wheel off, you can rotate the axle to allow the new stud to almost fit passed the carrier. If I recall correctly, the carrier has a couple of "indentations" that almost provide enough clearance to install the studs. I ground out 1 to 2mm of "relief to allow the studs to pass. Rotate axle to bring the next hole into place and insert another stud.

For the rear studs, does this also mean you don't have to remove the brake disc to remove the factory studs and replace them with new ones

 

[Larry Bastanza]

You must remove the brake disk to gain access to the hub face, which holds the studs in. I have also ground a deeper groove into one dip in the bearing carrier to remove/insert the studs. Saves a ton of work.

BTW, I do not find the big nut such a large issue. I do use a good size impact gun, but nothing major. Last year when my impact gun gave out, I just used a 3/4 drive breaker bar with the 36mm socket (from my VW days). It is a very good reason to keep an old boat anchor 16" rear wheel around. With this wheel you can get to the nut and with the car on the ground the nut comes off like butter, with the appropriate pipe (5 feet!!).

With that said, as Andy states: "get out the dremel"

HTH,
LarryB

 

[emdoller]

You must remove the brake disk to gain access to the hub face, which holds the studs in. I have also ground a deeper groove into one dip in the bearing carrier to remove/insert the studs. Saves a ton of work.

BTW, I do not find the big nut such a large issue. I do use a good size impact gun, but nothing major. Last year when my impact gun gave out, I just used a 3/4 drive breaker bar with the 36mm socket (from my VW days). It is a very good reason to keep an old boat anchor 16" rear wheel around. With this wheel you can get to the nut and with the car on the ground the nut comes off like butter, with the appropriate pipe (5 feet!!).

With that said, as Andy states: "get out the dremel"

HTH,
LarryB

Can you guys explain th dremel? I'm thinking of replacing my rear wheel studs and want to know what I'm getting myself into beofre I get started.

 

[D'Ecosse]

See the exploded diagram below of the wheel hub - you need to remove some material from the hub-bearing assembly to allow the stud to slip out past it when aligned to that point. Also grind a little from the knuckle. You will have less material to remove if you grind one of the indentations in the bearing housing (rather than the centre which is higher), but you will have to remove the flange bolts to make the slots line up before removing the studs.
I also cut out the area shown in the splash guard to be an open 'C' shape (lower image), to allow that to slip off to get better visibility and access.


.

 

[emdoller]

See the exploded diagram below of the wheel hub - you need to remove some material from the hub-bearing assembly to allow the stud to slip out past it when aligned to that point. Also grind a little from the knuckle. You will have less material to remove if you grind one of the indentations in the bearing housing (rather than the centre which is higher), but you will have to remove the flange bolts to make the slots line up before removing the studs.
I also cut out the area shown in the splash guard to be an open 'C' shape (lower image), to allow that to slip off to get better visibility and access.


.

Thanks. I think I'm starting to understand but am still confused. Did you do all this to get the hub bearing off or to remove the studs while the hub bearing was on the car? If so, why didn't you remove everything?

Thanks for you patience with me on this.

Ed

 

[D'Ecosse]

This is instead of removing the hub
From memory:
1) remove wheel
2) remove caliper
3) remove disc
4) remove splash guard screws & cut the section out with dremel or tin snips; remove guard
5) remove flange bolts
6) dremel away material from bearing housing & knuckle (Knuckle is the primary obstacle)
7) rotate each stud to the relieved area and remove old stud, insert new
8) turn hub to next stud & repeat

 

[emdoller]

Makes sense now but I'm still not sure why you wouldn't remove the hub and remove the studs off the car?

What's so difiicult about removing it vs. doing it on the car as described?

 

[D'Ecosse]

Because the hub is secured by a ~260ft-lb 36mm nut - if you have a pneumatic impact wrench, 3/4" drive 36mm socket and a 300 ft-lb torque wrench to re-torque it, then knock yourself out & just take it off.

 

[emdoller]

Because the hub is secured by a ~260ft-lb 36mm nut - if you have a pneumatic impact wrench, 3/4" drive 36mm socket and a 300 ft-lb torque wrench to re-torque it, then knock yourself out & just take it off.

Got it!

I have a friend with the 36mm socket and I have the impact wrench. How hard was it to remove the two screws (I hate screws) that are on the face of the hub?

 

[Briank]

Got it!

I have a friend with the 36mm socket and I have the impact wrench. How hard was it to remove the two screws (I hate screws) that are on the face of the hub?

Are you refering to the 2 philips countersunk head screws that hold brake rotor in place?

If you are see this thread:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48004&highlight=impact+driver

With a little skill you can also get them broken loose with a punch or a chisel but punching them loose will damage them so you may want to replace them or leave them out. After taking mine out I replaced them with allen head ones.

 

[emdoller]

Yup, those are the ones. Looks like I need to go bu an impact driver... I always wanted on anyway!

So other than the 250 ft/lb bolt and the screws, it doesn't seem to be that bad. Am I missing anything else?

Thanks - Ed

 

[ATERPAK]

Yes you are. You are making it a lot more work by removing the hub than you need to. Even if you do get that axle nut loose, you then have to free the hub from the axle splines. This may or may not be easy depending on the amount of corrosion on the splines plus the other bolts holding the hub onto the knuckle. Just do what Vytas has suggested and Ken's great directions and use a Dremel tool with a reinforced cutting wheel or grinding wheel to relieve a small area on the hub for the studs to pass through. Also make sure you paint the area you've just ground with some clear to keep corrosion from forming on the hub when you're done. It's not rocket science and it's a lot quicker than trying your way because you are still going to have to grind the hub in that same area while it's off the car. Doing it the other way will save you time, money (no new axle nut to buy) and aggravation.

 

[emdoller]

Yes you are. You are making it a lot more work by removing the hub than you need to. Even if you do get that axle nut loose, you then have to free the hub from the axle splines. This may or may not be easy depending on the amount of corrosion on the splines plus the other bolts holding the hub onto the knuckle. Just do what Vytas has suggested and Ken's great directions and use a Dremel tool with a reinforced cutting wheel or grinding wheel to relieve a small area on the hub for the studs to pass through. Also make sure you paint the area you've just ground with some clear to keep corrosion from forming on the hub when you're done. It's not rocket science and it's a lot quicker than trying your way because you are still going to have to grind the hub in that same area while it's off the car. Doing it the other way will save you time, money (no new axle nut to buy) and aggravation.

Thanks Al. If I took my car into comptech or niello to replace the, would they remove them and what do you think that might cost?

Ed

 

[NSXpert01]

I notched the actual stud head with a grinder slightly and this saved me tons of time and was able to get the stud on with no problem. :biggrin: