NSX-R modifications & future values

The NSX-R modifications in general are desirable to allot of NSX owners except the purist which may include you (nothing wrong with that, I'm not trying to offend you)

I'm not a purist and certainly did my part to modify( ruin?) some 1955-7 Chevrolets back in the day, likely before you were born :)

My NSX is stock because of my experience at a driving school Acura put on a year after I bought my NSX.
After three days of quality instruction I drove my NSX to my limits as a driver.
I then asked my instructor, who had never driven one, if he would drive me around the track to learn how he would drive the car.
After three laps I was hanging on for dear life, and after four laps asked him to head to the pits.
My instructor drove the NSX much faster than I could and he added there was a lot more left in the car but he didn't want to push it.
I decided then there was no point adding go fast mods until I could extract what was built into the car from the factory.
Well I've never reached the point of maxing out my NSX so it remains stock.
Not much of a comment on my driving skills I'll admit.

I support your going for your version of an NSX-R.
Build it, drive it, and enjoy it.
At some point if you choose to sell it we'll all learn about the retained value, meantime I think greenberet has summed it up nicely in his last line.
 
I really don't want to open the NSX-R GT can of worms, but the long bumpers and snorkel were like that to honologate the shape for an advantage in the JGTC/SUPER GT race series. It wasn't just for "style".

I didn't claim you wanted to be the singer of the NSX but just mentioned the possibility of it happening in the future.
 
Singer is an interesting topic to bring up. I visited them this summer and love their Carrera RS-themed 911s. They showed me their new 4.0 liter engines, their new intake manifolds, and all the options customers have to choose from. Fantastic. If I ordered one, I could option it just how I wanted with the latest, greatest engine. I would much rather do that than buy a Singer 911 that some other guy optioned and which still has the old 3.8 liter lump in back. It would be interesting what the resale is on used Singer 911s compared to their purchase prices when new. I'd assume owners take quite a hit.

Technology moves on and better intake, exhaust, and engine management systems may become available for NSXs in the future as may better suspension systems, chassis braces, and batteries. The state of the art today may be uninteresting for someone looking to modify an NSX in the future. If you could get an Öhlins suspension system, carbon fiber bumper beams that bolt up like OEM, titanium chassis braces, a cylinder-selective engine management system, a CFD-optimized intake manifold, a lithium iron phosphate battery that is compatible with an NSX's charging system, etc. how much more would you pay for an NSX fitted with the Koni shock absorbers and mild steel headers Comptech used to sell? I'd rather buy a stock car that was probably babied and modify it with the current state of the art "upgrades" myself.

If the financial aspect of modifications rubs you the wrong way, you could keep the stock parts and put them into storage. If you ever decide to sell your NSX, you'd have the option of converting it back to stock and selling the aftermarket parts separately. But dude, our hobby is a money pit. Just enjoy it!
 
We tried it 3-4 years ago, we did not even get it out of the shipping container, Funds are not the issue, while waiting I drove a friends right hand drive GTR and RX7 a few times, I really don't enjoy driving right hand drive, and the importer had some tricks up his sleeve, and the original plan after it was released was to drive it on a dealer plate, but insurance was not going to cover it, and my legal council scared the hell out of me regarding the high risk of exposure I would have in case of accident by operating an illegal car and people having a field day coming after my assets, Driving right hand drive in the US can be considered irresponsible, especially if you have considerable assets for people to chase they will find a way to paint you at fault. And alternatively keeping it in a garage for 5 years was not acceptable either.

Also NA1 NSX-R does not do it for me as much as much as the NA2 NSX-R. I decided I liked my car more. Thus the NA2-R obsession.

as far as the countless knock-off's, that's what happens when the original is not available in US. but honestly anything NSX related can hardly be considered countless when there's only maybe 30-50 NSX-R wannabes in the whole country? Not exactly roaming the streets like VW beettles to be considered countless.

Why the negativity of replicating an NSX-R as-if there are 5 NSX-R's on ebay right now and were too cheap to buy one? Its just not available thus replicating is the only option.
Its not like I'm building a kit car NSX-R from scratch on a pontiac fiero frame. :)

I guess I should have been more specific, I was frowning on the replica NSX-R parts.

Back to your original question:

So whats the best way to build and own and hold value for an NSX-R aficionado. will the NSX-R replica desirability hold strong if so how much?

The best way is to keep all of your original parts, and enjoy your mods, then switch it all out when you're ready to sell. There is not a strong market for accurate NSX-R replicas because the price is so high for most parts. $20k OEM recaros, $10k, rear CF wing. If you do an accurate replica using OEM parts, expect to sit on it for years like the one that's listed for 147k or so in Colorado.
 
Singer topics are controversial too so I won't add to it.

Yes, you can build any kind of NSX-R themed tribute/restomod/clone/replica.. but you'll never see the market appreciate it as much as you will.. I mean heck.. it's your car and your build! This is why I said.. F IT. Build a car you want to build. Forget trying to copy the NSX R. Treat it as an expense and not an investment. Augment your life with lots of track days and spirited drives and lots of coaching from [MENTION=16531]stuntman[/MENTION]. Put your investment money in other assets that actually get proven returns and better bang for your buck. If it so happens an NSX-R clone tickles your fancy then by all means.. get to it but the question will be limiting your depreciation floor rather than maximing your profit ceiling.

For me, if I can't have a real NSX-R, I don't want a clone. Yet, since all of the real NSX-R are RHD i'm not interested in any of them unless I move to a RHD country permanently.
 
Thank you for your input for anyone that contributed.
Lets finish up with this 3 page thread about authenticity.

If anyone interested in modification and re-creating a functional and performing equal or better than NSX-R inspired car
discuss how its future value will hold up relative to similar oem cars ?
Not just slapping on NSX-R spoiler and CF hood and red seats and painting oem wheels white. that's just the look-a-like clone level....

Lets talk about really recreating the performance aspect of the nsx-r. really getting down to 2800-2600 lbs or less!
and being as fast or faster than a CTSC car with N/A bolt-ons

which NSX-R mods will be more desirable than others?
NA1 NSX-R or NA2 NSXR or half way in-between NA1/NA2 NSX-R with 02 front like I have so far?
3.0 engine or 3.2 engine is it worth the extra expense of putting a 3.2 into a NA1 coupe?
what their preferred build may be.
Welding the roof on the heavier NA2?
Whats a almost a reasonable value for a top performing NSX-R build
Whom would be rather buy one done that build one themselves
Weight reduction in a NSX-R themed build? frowned upon?
A/C removal? sound deadening removal? stereo removal
which of these things are you willing to do in your NSX-R build or acceptable when buying a already built NSX-R inspired/coned/replicated whatever?

So many questions besides authenticity of parts, since it will never be a real one anyway.
 
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Thank you for your input for anyone that contributed.
Lets finish up with this 3 page thread about authenticity.

If anyone interested in modification and re-creating a functional and performing equal or better than NSX-R inspired car
discuss how its future value will hold up relative to similar oem cars ?
Not just slapping on NSX-R spoiler and CF hood and red seats and painting oem wheels white. that's just the look alike level....
where talking about really recreating the performance aspect of the nsx-r. really getting down to 2800-2600 lbs or less! and being as fast or faster than a CTSC car

which NSX-R mods will be more desirable than others ?
what their preferred build may be.
Whats a almost a reasonable value for a top performing NSX-R build
Whom would be rather buy one done that build one themselves
Weight reduction in a NSX-R themed build? frowned upon?
A/C removal? sound deadening removal? which of these things are you willing to do in your NSX-R build or buying a already built one?

So many questions besides authenticity of parts, since it will never be a real one anyway.

It's not just about the authenticity of parts though... The real NSX-R also has it's shortcomings. First of all those dampers are stiff especially for US roads so as a daily driver it sucks. Some may not like the short gearing too. Also, if i'm spending the money i'd put a better LSD in there. These alone put you farther away from an ideal car that will achieve the best bang for your buck in today's technology.

In my opinion, you have first to put a set of criteria together for what an NSX-R is and everyone can contribute to properly build to it. So let me start.
* Mediocre tires since i'm pretty sure tires now like the Michelin Cup 2s are far superior. I wish they made a 215/40/17 or a 235 even
* Mediocre OEM LSD but torqued to Type R spec
* 4.23 Final Drive Ratio
* Updated ABS
* Lightweight bucket seats like Pole Positions (which can be subjective for some)
* Mediocre width wheels
* Mediocre brakes
* ...

I guess my point is... this is all just my opinion. We all have many.
 
It's not just about the authenticity of parts though... The real NSX-R also has it's shortcomings. First of all those dampers are stiff especially for US roads so as a daily driver it sucks. Some may not like the short gearing too. Also, if i'm spending the money i'd put a better LSD in there. These alone put you farther away from an ideal car that will achieve the best bang for your buck in today's technology.

In my opinion, you have first to put a set of criteria together for what an NSX-R is and everyone can contribute to properly build to it. So let me start.
* Mediocre tires since i'm pretty sure tires now like the Michelin Cup 2s are far superior. I wish they made a 215/40/17 or a 235 even
* Mediocre OEM LSD but torqued to Type R spec
* 4.23 Final Drive Ratio
* Updated ABS
* Lightweight bucket seats like Pole Positions (which can be subjective for some)
* Mediocre width wheels
* Mediocre brakes
* ...

I guess my point is... this is all just my opinion. We all have many.

Thank you for your interest and helping me guide this thread to be as constructive as possible

I agree with the same NSX-R weak points. how can we improve them?

I dont have much experience with the NSX-R suspension so my opinion is limited, but i don't believe its the best out there, and i think it may be harsher when installed on an OEM weight NSX especially a 3200 lbs NA2. we would only know how it intended to drive if it was tested on a 2800bs car as it was intended... of curiosity what was the estimated weight of the car you drove in if it was a 3200 lbs NA2 that is 15% heavier than intended that could that have pre-loaded the suspension more than expected? just a possibility. do you recall if it had 18/19's lower profile tires? non-compliance bits? I'm not questing validity of your opinion... just honestly curious for my own knowledge.
as far as I have seen plenty of JDM NSX-Rs including Drift King have chosen to scrap the OEM NSX-R suspension likely for good reason..

LSD I would go with something better as well
Tires NT01 are just amazing
Seats, recaro's are nice, there all similar in the end of the day
NA2 ABS is great upgrade
Wheel upgrade is highly recommended since real NSX-R wheels are impossible to get and NA2 oem wheels are not a sufficient substitute

As far as brakes OEM Brakes may not be sufficent for 3000-3200 lbs but that is another part that improves as weight gets lower, less lbs to stop means less braking needed, i'm not convinced the OEM brakes are not good enough for a light weight N/A build especially with the right pads, rotors, dot 6 fluid, proper ducting installed and heat shields removed. Although the stoptech BBK front with NA2 rear setup that was recommended to me by billy is absolutely incredible.

Tires widths have been discussed many times and although I run 235 and 275 rears as recommended by many, for an N/A build it may be more than necessary and the trade off between wheel weight and diameter and proper heat cycling and evenly controlled tire heat matching oem suspension camber design may play more into the NSX-R decision to run 255 than we common folk are able to understand. I have not ruled out reducing to 255 to see if times or lap consistency or traction stays the same or worsens or improves, what i do know is on 275 NT01 i have tons more traction than I could ever ever needed on the street. sidewall wear is also increased with 275 over 255. its a curious subject.
 
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there is a 97 white na2 type R clone for sale on autotrader for a long time. Initially, the dealer asked for 135k. Now, it's115k and still wont get sold.

even if we have a real NA2 type R in this country, I really doubt its price will go above 120k.
 
there is a 97 white na2 type R clone for sale on autotrader for a long time. Initially, the dealer asked for 135k. Now, it's115k and still wont get sold.

even if we have a real NA2 type R in this country, I really doubt its price will go above 120k.

hey thanks for the heads up.
wow what a great build

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...archRadius=0&showcaseListingId=411350763&mmt=[ACURA[NSX[]][]]&listingId=400578658&Log=0

120k is still allot of money, there are just as well built modified cars on the market for 60-70k with the exception of the OEM seats and supposed OEM NSX-R hood which I am doubtful of the hood being real.

thus why I mentioned the law of diminishing returns and am have been clear that 30-40k worth of mods may only return 10-20k over an OEM NSX.

In this case 50k-60k worth of mods may get this guy 20-30k over a regular NSX, therefore a 20k mile 1997 is worth 60k add 20-30k and it may be worth 80-90k.

Based on my calculations this is likely a 3150lb car at best since all the basic reductions from NSX-R CF seats, hood, spoiler engine cover, only add up to 40-50lbs at most, the Ti exhaust -30lbs, 02 headlight conversion -30lbs, misc 25lbs ..... = total weight reduction of around -140lbs still hardly offsetting the 75lbs additional from the CTSC and estimated 3200 stock starting weight... add an estimated 400 crank / 350whp to the wheels equals around a 7.87 Power to weight not really that fast overall.... and still heavy in the turns... and still limited by chassis flex of a targa. and the well known fact that a CTSC will start losing good bit of power as it heat-soaks.

Although a very impressive OEM NSX-R parts list which is easy to get googly eyed over....
I would put money on this car still being slower than a real NSX-R. and also slower than a few well built functional NSX-R type builds out there.... Mine for sure, with 650lbs weight advantage and better p/w of 7.55 even before heat-soak kicks in my setup would run circles around it. I'm not factoring in any driver variable here. just one setup vs another setup

as mentioned NSX-R function is not an easy feat
 
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http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...mt=[ACURA[NSX[]][]]&listingId=400578658&Log=0

Look at the mod list. It's impressive but not utilized. only 20k miles is very low. I don't really care the purpose behind it, but I won't do even if I have that kind of money.

I have a pair of downforce Kevlar seats at home. seriously, 5k is already a lot for a pair of seats. 15-18k for a pair of NSX-R seats is way overpriced. also, the 4k type R cluster is just ridiculous priced.
 
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Yes its an awesome mod list and easily will make someone think its faster than it is.

I thought the NSX-R seats were 7-8k..... now their 15-18k?

Agreed regardless of affordability not being an issue that's completely nuts.....
I fail to reckon the correlation between $750 per pound of weight savings and a good deal..
 
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I agree, there are a lot of aspects of that guy's NSX-R build that I would do differently. Other than replicating an NSX-R, there is no gold standard how an ideal NSX-R inspired build should be carried out.

I would want Procar's carbon front hood because it fits perfectly and is lighter than the OEM NSX-R front hood. I wouldn't want Procar's carbon bumper beams, however, because they don't protect the corners of the car. I'd prefer Pole2Flag's carbon bumper beams but only if they were custom made with metric threads so that they and the horns bolt up using stock fasteners. I think using aluminum bolts to save weight is great but only in non-structural areas and wherever they bolt into steel, I want anti-seize in there to prevent contact corrosion. If you aren't perfectly recreating an NSX-R, I'm sure every enthusiast has individual preferences like that.

Just as you aren't thrilled with the Colorado NSX-R build, buyers would want parts of your NSX-R build done differently. To lose as little money as possible with modifications, you should probably return the car to its stock configuration and sell the aftermarket pieces separately. If you had a Procar hood and bumper beams, you might find one buyer for the hood and another for the beams. It would be better to sell them separately and not force one buyer to take a package that includes things he doesn't want.
 
I agree, there are a lot of aspects of that guy's NSX-R build that I would do differently. Other than replicating an NSX-R, there is no gold standard how an ideal NSX-R inspired build should be carried out.

I would want Procar's carbon front hood because it fits perfectly and is lighter than the OEM NSX-R front hood. I wouldn't want Procar's carbon bumper beams, however, because they don't protect the corners of the car. I'd prefer Pole2Flag's carbon bumper beams but only if they were custom made with metric threads so that they and the horns bolt up using stock fasteners. I think using aluminum bolts to save weight is great but only in non-structural areas and wherever they bolt into steel, I want anti-seize in there to prevent contact corrosion. If you aren't perfectly recreating an NSX-R, I'm sure every enthusiast has individual preferences like that.

Just as you aren't thrilled with the Colorado NSX-R build, buyers would want parts of your NSX-R build done differently. To lose as little money as possible with modifications, you should probably return the car to its stock configuration and sell the aftermarket pieces separately. If you had a Procar hood and bumper beams, you might find one buyer for the hood and another for the beams. It would be better to sell them separately and not force one buyer to take a package that includes things he doesn't want.

i completely understand everyone will have their own version, I have nothing against that,
the difficult part of this discussion is to get people thinking beyond the appearance, hood, spoiler and seats, and onto the next level which is actually recreating the "function" of a NSX-R.
Actually painstakingly reaching the 2700-2800lbs or lower and having a 8.1 P/W or better and the reaching the real NSX-R performance rather just cosmetics.

That car had the "type-r look" it was just cosmetic it did not have anywhere near equal mechanical function of the type-r, it was substantially heavy, not rigid, no real attempts to reduce weight. And even boosted it would still slower. it was the usual opposite to NSX-R approach.... to add more boost to overcome the weight and that result only makes it faster in the straights.. which has nothing to do with what a type-r is about.

For someone curious of nsx-r capabilities and feel and to drive this car, would have a very incorrect NSX-R impression.

- - - Updated - - -



------------------------------------------------------------

Well FWIW.... i just realized something I had never thought of before :)....

even a real 2810lbs 3.2 NA2 NSXR is not necessarily any more capable than a real 2700lbs 3.0 NA1 NSX-R.


the NA1R chassis actually starts out nearly 200 lbs lighter than NA2R chassis thus capable of evening out the additional 10-15 Hp from the difference between a the blueprinted NA1R 3.0 and the blueprinted NA2's 3.2
The difference is the additional 100lbs weight reduction techniques found the NA2R such as front end and CF aero parts and aluminum bumpers and ect....

So to further compare apples to apples...... if you take a real 3.0 NA1R and apply the real parts from the 3.2 NA2-R and MATCH the newer NA2-R lighter techniques such as: 02 front -30, Areo, hood -8 & spoiler -8, aluminum bumpers -30lbs and misc small reductions -20, and NA2 suspension -7 and tire widths. you would have a 2600lbs NA1 NSXR that's 200lbs lighter than NA2-R with equal handling. at that point the only advantage the NA2 has is the 3.2's 10-15 more hp & 6spd which i don't believe would overcome the NA1R newfound 200lb advantage. The NA1R would handle better and have a better P/W....

the result after installing all the NA2R parts onto the real NA1R would be:
updated 3.0 NA1R 2600 lbs and about 280whp (330crank) = 7.87 p/w
3.2 NA2R 2810lbs and about 295whp (346crank) = 8.1 p/w

the P/W & 200lbs weight advantage and equally advanced suspension/tires/aero will give the "updated" NA1R a serious advantage at that point.
 
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I think we agree that the "function" of the NSX-R was mainly weight reduction, balanced front to rear; getting rid of lift, again making sure the front/rear balance isn't screwed up; and a track-oriented suspension.

Modifying an NSX along those lines gets you a modified NSX. If the purpose of this thread is to discuss how to lose as little money as possible when modifying an NSX to be lighter and more powerful, having a great power to weight ratio while staying naturally aspirated, I think the answer is to convert it back to stock before you sell it and sell the mods separately.

Which specific mods Honda's engineers would have chosen if they had access to today's technology and weren't held back by the bean-counters and gentleman's agreements is a different question. But looking at the financial side of things – if you ever want to sell your NSX, go back to stock and sell the mods to those individuals who are looking for those individual parts.
 
I think the NSX is one of the few cases where the engineers were given a free ride (no bean counters), they were held back by the "gentlemen agreement" though.
I am going this way too (lightweight and N/A), although i wont change the front end, the pop up lights are too classic, also everything i do can be reverted. I have an NA2 coupe as a base so a lot of work is already done by Honda :)
 
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I agree that there don't seem to have been many budget restrictions when the NSX was originally developed. But at the turn of the millennium, after sales had nosedived, I suspect Honda tried to keep a lid on further development costs. Otherwise, I think the 2002 NSX-R would have been fitted with things like an uprated engine oil cooler and a transmission oil cooler.
 
Yeah i suppose the ambition of the program was quickly lost after the death of the founder who had this "race spirit".. Weird how they never really got motivated to do something out of their Prelude and NSX lines, like Porsche and others are doing, the S2K was a one-off basically. Is the market for affordable, reliable sports car really dead ?
The NSX-R was nice and all, but it was really too expensive for what it delivered. Also there's very little knowledge about it outside of the Honda hardcore enthusiast ranks, even my friends in the local Lotus club know about the NSX but never heard of the R model - and some of them did swap Honda engines in their Lotus, so they're already enthusiasts.
I'd rather aim towards something Patricio mentioned, getting to NSX-R level of performance but with a different approach, with more modern parts.
 
I agree that there don't seem to have been many budget restrictions when the NSX was originally developed. But at the turn of the millennium, after sales had nosedived, I suspect Honda tried to keep a lid on further development costs. Otherwise, I think the 2002 NSX-R would have been fitted with things like an uprated engine oil cooler and a transmission oil cooler.

Also, any guesses if the Type R engine oil delivery system could handle the lateral forces that go along with racing slicks?
 
Yes its an awesome mod list and easily will make someone think its faster than it is.

I thought the NSX-R seats were 7-8k..... now their 15-18k?

Agreed regardless of affordability not being an issue that's completely nuts.....
I fail to reckon the correlation between $750 per pound of weight savings and a good deal..

if oem type R seats are 7-8k for a pair, I wouldn't buy downforce replica seats. they were always 15-18k for a pair depends where you get from. Type R seats are already discontinued when I purchased my downforce seats.

by the way, I appreciate Honda's effort to create a R model, but it's too expensive for what it brings. only hardcore Honda fans will pay for it if they have enough money. the rest of the world won't.

again, it's your money and build whatever you want if you really want to have a TYPE R. however, the resale value won't exceed what you spent. That white R conversion is a good sample. Other than the weight, it has more than a real type R. But 119k wont get it sold, and it will stay there for another few years.
 
again, it's your money and build whatever you want if you really want to have a TYPE R. however, the resale value won't exceed what you spent. That white R conversion is a good sample. Other than the weight, it has more than a real type R. But 119k wont get it sold, and it will stay there for another few years.


yes 15k is crazy,

Just to be clear I have no intention of getting all my money back, and especially not exceeding the value.


OK.... i just feel inclined to defend a NSX-R vs CTSC comparison and set the record straight. overall performance is just not that simple.

I do not understand how that white 97 NA2 CTSC with a cosmetic NSX-R conversion for 119k car has more of anything than a real type-R? that is impossible. this just goes to show how much a NSX-R must be the most completely misunderstood and under estimated car. An NSXR performs at GT3 levels with 10X the reliability and full interior street drive-ability.

Many people drastically underestimate weight importance to the NSX chassis.... Any real nsx-r or a functional light weight clone like mine would out perform and beat that thing to death over and over to an embarrassing level

I broke it down to numbers in a previous post that i will quote myself here. showing how a CTSC is not the simple answer to beating a NSX-R.

Weight plays into two very important places:
One: is the power to weight ratio that's gives a relative acceleration comparison::: 8.1 p/w NSXR compared to 7.87 p/w NA2 CTSC very close 3% difference
Two: much less understood is weight alone and effects on braking, turning, weight transfer curve to curve ect. 2800 lbs vs 3150 lbs = 15% difference

Simplified: the CTSC may be 3% faster in the straights but the NSX-R will be 15% faster everywhere else, it will carry more speed through and out of the turns and therefore drastically out-run the CTSC everywhere. and keep doing it for many more laps way beyond that CTSC cars overheating limits. Theoretically the CTSC car would need to improve it P/W RATIO by 15% which would equal = 475hp at crank to get close to overpowering the nsx-r's weight advantage. but then comes reality that managing that kind of power for many laps is very very difficult, and motors will blow unless many precautions have been made.

As also mentioned CTSC heat soak has not even been taken into consideration yet... the CTSC is a great power adder but no power adder is perfect... will lose 20-30whp after a just a few laps... at that point it the CTSC power to weight will be around 8.4 and it will not even be fair to even bother to continue the comparison. The 450 lbs lighter better handling and braking NSX-R and newfound better power to weight will be lapping the heat soaked CTSC. Theoretically after Heat soak consideration that same CTSC that needed 475 hp to keep up now needs at least 525whp.. and it will blowup long before it does that.

The NSXR is an amazing balance of power and weight very few fully understand.

You could attempt to reduce the weight of the NSX-T CTSC car.... But its not so simple.... the targa chassis its self weighs 200lbs more than a coupe. Then there is heavy power steering, no A/C, No stereo, and many other differences that add up to the 450lbs weight difference.. its a long road of deducting and swapping out pound after pound just to get to 3000lbs. getting to 2800lbs would require weight reduction beyond the NSX-R. no interior ect.. You really have to start with a coupe to recreate a functional NSX-R, or its an uphill battle..

If handling and "overall" performance is not something on the top of the priority list then weight reduction and NSX-R functionality is not relative just add the biggest turbo available, forget everything else, smash the gas and go straight there plenty of cars that do that very well..

I'm not anti-boost by any means, if someone does boost and weight reduction than more power to them, but there is a misconception that boost by itself makes a car perform better overall than a light weight N/A car. theres allot of skill of factors that go into driving a boosted car fast. especially since any turbo or CTSC also adds about 75lbs to the rear of a NSX therefore inducing a bit more over steer... I used to drive a 2800lb roll caged 1988 911 with 500hp, its no easy feat, its like wrestling a snake or an alligator around the track all day. Thus why many race variants like GT3 and challenge cars are N/A

As the great Colin Chapman is quoted often...." add power and you make a car faster in the straights, add lightness and you make it faster everywhere".

Based on my calculations this is likely a 3150lb car at best since all the basic reductions from NSX-R CF seats, hood, spoiler engine cover, only add up to 40-50lbs at most, the Ti exhaust -30lbs, 02 headlight conversion -30lbs, misc 25lbs ..... = total weight reduction of around -140lbs still hardly offsetting the 75lbs additional from the CTSC and estimated 3200 stock starting weight... add an estimated 400 crank / 350whp to the wheels equals around a 7.87 Power to weight not really that fast overall.... and still heavy in the turns... and still limited by chassis flex of a targa. and the well known fact that a CTSC will start losing good bit of power as it heat-soaks.

Although a very impressive OEM NSX-R parts list which is easy to get googly eyed over....
I would put money on this car still being slower than a real NSX-R. and also slower than a few well built functional NSX-R type builds out there.... Mine for sure, with 650lbs weight advantage and better p/w of 7.55 even before heat-soak kicks in my setup would run circles around it. I'm not factoring in any driver variable here. just one setup vs another setup

as mentioned NSX-R function is not an easy feat
 
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Patricio, what about the older SOS shop car build? Is that closer to how you'd explain your notion of a more current Type R inspiration?:
http://www.rarecarsforsaleblog.com/2012/10/24/the-craziest-nsx-ive-ever-come-across/

Specifically with the 3.5l ITB setup. (It seems to have changed hands a couple times since, and become a twin turbo according to the newer classified ads I saw.)

It is a GPW early coupe and is (was) street legal and NA. And it would run circles around a Type R in every performance metric. Except resale value haha.:rolleyes:

I ran to their doorstep with my car when I saw that car's dyno with 400whp and 308tq. With that and a sub-1200kg curb weight all-in sign me up! But Chris explained its 12.5 compression means strictly E85-only, and said I would need to adjust and tune the ITBs a lot if I try to emulate that build. My favorite drive in AZ puts me at less than half ethanol when I am out in the boonies.

It was good he talked me out of it since my CTSC setup works better than ever.. (flex fuel + AEM Infinity, & efficient cooling from a Koyo radiator and Shad after cooler). But there is still the appeal of something more rare and special, plus I'm sure the throttle response is pretty awesome too.
 
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Patricio, what about the older SOS shop car build? Is that closer to how you'd explain your notion of a more current Type R inspiration?:
http://www.rarecarsforsaleblog.com/2012/10/24/the-craziest-nsx-ive-ever-come-across/

Specifically with the 3.5l ITB setup. (It seems to have changed hands a couple times since, and become a twin turbo according to the newer classified ads I saw.)

It is a GPW early coupe and is (was) street legal and NA. And it would run circles around a Type R in every performance metric. Except resale value haha.:rolleyes:

I ran to their doorstep with my car when I saw that car's dyno with 400whp and 308tq. With that and a sub-1200kg curb weight all-in sign me up! But Chris explained its 12.5 compression means strictly E85-only, and said I would need to adjust and tune the ITBs a lot if I try to emulate that build. My favorite drive in AZ puts me at less than half ethanol when I am out in the boonies.

It was good he talked me out of it since my CTSC setup works better than ever.. (flex fuel + AEM Infinity, & efficient cooling from a Koyo radiator and Shad after cooler). But there is still the appeal of something more rare and special, plus I'm sure the throttle response is pretty awesome too.


Seems like you really have that CTSC operating right!

I love that car, and wish I would have bought it when it was available, timing was wrong for me.. :( :( :(
Yes this is a great NSX-R inspired build!

I'd prefer a bit less race car look on the street and more NSX-R looking
I too noticed the engine is now a turbo built engine now, is it possible that build did not live up to expectations or maybe not drive-able? I think that's why i did not jump on it now that I think of it... My plan was to tune the engine down a bit to be able to guzzle regular gas.
Also I think there are some interior panels removed for a partial cage, I would remove the cage and replace the interior panels, and take off all those stickers.

As far as what makes an NSX-R to me... I am not the NSX authority :) just trying to keep a thread constructive. Rather than be sidetracked by boost and authenticity talk. I think the main components of the NSX-R is maximizing light weight, while maintaining drive-ability, full interior, most creature comforts, performance & N/A reliability, and the NSX-R cosmetics to finish off the package.

I see nothing wrong with replicating NSX-R functionality but choosing to not follow NSX-R cosmetic style (like this car)
Thus basically the opposite of most cars with NSX-R cosmetics but without NSX-R functionality
My preference is to have both NSX-R functionality and looks.


Can someone get me in contact with the current owner? maybe the time is right for me?... Although its a salvage history car.... :( that's a tough one for me to swallow.

it sold for 60k with salvage history ... that's 35-40k over a comparable oem salvage car. There was probably 60k-80k into that car, so 40-50% recuperated on mods was not to bad.. I'd be happy with that as the builder seller.



Thinking about this a bit more, All i'm really missing compared to this car, (things that matter to me) would be the engine build. Since the motons are awesome, but may be overkill for the street? and although I appreciate the wide-body nsx's, i love the oem lines more.

Can u confirm where you saw it was sub 1200kg?
 
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I'm not sure I buy the Japanese NSX-R propaganda that it's as fast as a 997.2 GT3 or an F430.

I don't think the NSX-R has a baffled oil pan and would therefore starve itself in long right-hand sweepers on slicks.
 
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I'm not sure I buy the Japanese NSX-R propaganda that it's as fast as a 997.2 GT3 or an F430.

I don't think the NSX-R has a baffled oil pan and would therefore starve itself in long right-hand sweepers on slicks.

Sounds to good to be true to me as well....


From my arm chair racing professional analysis prospective: :)

997.2 GT3 the figures are close, the better overall balance of the NSX-R may give it an edge?
Against the Ferrari F430 the NSX-R may get its ass kicked


997 vs NSX-R has 12% lighter weight but 3% P/W disadvantage
997.2 vs NSX-R has 11% lighter weight but 10% P/W disadvantage
F430 vs NSX-R has 12% lighter weight but 20% P/W disadvantage

NSXR: 2810lbs, 346hp = 8.10 P/W
997 GT3: 3200 lbs, 415hp = 7.71 P/W
997.2 GT3: 3160lbs, 435hp = 7.26 P/W
F430: 3190 lbs, 490hp = 6.51 P/W


FWIW: the NSXR should have an edge over the original 997 GT3

This is based on NSX-R having 295whp estimated 346 crank for sake of comparison. Now if those sneaky engineers where massaging them up to 300-305 whp out of those things than the NSX-R could have 360 estimated crank and a 7.8 P/W and that could be enough to keep up.
 
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