NSX @ Mid-Ohio

BlueGTS,

The Coleman rotors that we are using are with an aluminum hat. I am not positive on how many vanes, I will have to count, and they are directional. I know that the gentlemen from the race team said that the rotor that we are using has about half of the number of vanes than what they typically use, which I know would help with the expansion under heat. We have the PFC 83 compound, but we have also tryed various compounds to try to fix the problem. The less aggresive that we go, the better they seem to be. I have heard good and bad things about the Coleman rotor. A friend of ours with a 944 Turbo race car had the same problem that we had, and ended up just going with the Porsche rotor.

I was going to ask you if you would be at Viper Days this weekend at Mid-Ohio, but probably not since you live in California. We are going to go over to check it out. My boyfriend's brother has a GTS also.

Thanks for the help.
Angie
 
Rotors

Hi Angie, I am not sure where you got your alcon rotors but if you want to try something other than coleman, I know that Baer Racing has been using DBA rotors (from Australia) on their Alcon brake systems. I don't know how they compare because I have not used them. I do know they are not $800.

I run Viper Days but don't go farther than their California venues. They have a race and will probably have the comp coupes there. That would be nice to see. By the way, I used to own a 92 Black NSX and loved that car but I eventually thought it was too soft and Honda should've made it like the Japanese Type R. Still curious as to what the next gen NSX will be like and hope it is a 360 or 911GT3 beater as I am still an NSX fan.
 
BlueGTS,

We spoke with the gentleman at the shop where we were going to get the Alcon rotors, and he suggested maybe trying a different compound pad, the PFC01 pad that you are using. He wanted us to try that first before we spent the money on the new rotors. I really hope that it fixes the problem. I don't want to go to another driving event with this problem.

Thanks again for all of the help with this situation, it is much appreciated.

Angie
 
Dude, I seriously dislike you. :p

All I can say is maybe next year - I'm committed for the rest of this year.
 
cool. thanks to shawn for passing me the video. now you guys can see how bad GR drives. not perfect, but fairly consistant. :D

about 1:50.x for a few laps. going about 8.5/10th. on some forums there's a perception that i "slide" people's car around. most of the cars I've ever driven is about same pace as this... fairly quick, but very conservatice on corner entry.

http://www.g-speed.com/eg2/tq-midohio-0403/gr-in-shawn-nsx-mid-ohio.mov
 
Last edited:
I am in the process of shaking out (no pun intended) brake shudder problems on both my cars.

I have been told that proper bedding of the brakes is key, to transfer a uniform layer of material onto the rotors. I have also been told that proper bedding includes getting the brakes uniformly heated (on the street) with a series of stops of increasing severity, and then letting them cool overnight. There are also some good tips in nsxbuilder's post in this topic.

I had had problems with shudder on some brake pads (including stock) early on. More recently I have not encountered shudder on the NSX. On my ITR, I have encountered shudder, even with two-piece Stoptech rotors. I suspect the pads I am using on that car (Endless CC-X) may be worse for leaving those deposits on the rotors, and am considering alternatives.
 
nsxtasy said:
I have been told that proper bedding of the brakes is key, to transfer a uniform layer of material onto the rotors. I have also been told that proper bedding includes getting the brakes uniformly heated (on the street) with a series of stops of increasing severity, and then letting them cool overnight. There are also some good tips in nsxbuilder's post in this topic.
Click to expand...

Something I never understood was why the bedding procedure is like that. It conflicts with the manufacturer's recommendations when you buy a new car and they suggest that you go easy on the brakes for the initial break-in period. If we're supposed to bed-in our brakes with a series of stops of increasing severity, don't you think the manufacturer would recommend that in the break-in period? I've always been confused by this.

My guess is that bedding in the brakes (inducing green fade with a series of stops) is a short and quick alternative break-in procedure. It's used if you just put on new brakes and have to go to the track tomorrow, but don't have sufficient time to break-in the brakes in the usual way that the manufacturer suggested.

Can someone shed some light on this?

-CiaoBoy
 
The answer is, bedding in the brakes for street use - which is what the car manufacturer recommends - has a totally different purpose from doing so for track use.

For street use, the purpose is to get the pad surface and the rotor surface mated. This takes a while with normal street procedures - hence the advice to go easy for a few hundred miles, with no special procedure otherwise required.

For track use, the purpose is not only to get the surfaces mated, but also (a) to get the pads heated up enough to outgas so that they won't fade when heated ("green pad syndrome") and (b) to create a uniform deposit of pad material on the surface of the rotor. To achieve these objectives, the brakes must become very hot and then have a chance to cool down. Thus the need for a series of stops of increasing severity.

Most cars that never go to the track never get the brakes hot enough to sufficiently outgas the pads or deposit pad material on the rotors.
 

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