NO BRAKES. NEED HELP ASAP

Originally posted by Sensei:
Okay, now you guys are making me look this stuff up
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Here are 4 simple tests that you can do yourselves to check the brake booster. In the 3rd test, I did come across an interesting fact which involves the Air Conditioning system...I hope this helps.

1) With to engine stopped, depress the brake pedal several times to complete the vacuum reservoir, then depress the pedal hard and hold it for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, either the master cylinder is bypassing internally, or the brake system, is leaking.(master cylinder, linings, modulator, proportioning valve, or calipers)

2)Start the engine with the pedal depressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is operating normally, if the pedal height does not very, the booster or check valve is faulty. With the engine running, you can pull the vacuum hose off the brake booster. If there is no vacuum coming from the hose, the check valve is bad.

3)With the engine running, depress the brake pedal lightly. Apply just enough pressure to hold back “automatic transmission creep”, if the brake pedal sinks more than one inch(25mm) in three minutes, the master cylinder is faulty. A slight change in pedal height when the AC compressor cycles on and off is normal. The AC compressor load changes the vacuum available to the booster.

4)Depress the brake pedal with the engine running, then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary while depressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is okay. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty.


[This message has been edited by Sensei (edited 29 September 2002).]

Well.I just got off the phone with acura and the told me that my brake problems are the following.
1 brake master cylinder
2 abs modulator
can you guy really think that the abs modulator wich is about $2500 is the problem, they told me that both are leaking.i need your imput as soon as possible.
 
Your problem sounds like the typical master cylinder bypassing internally. The pedal fading down with constant pressure is almost always a bad master cylinder. The abs modulator has nothing to do with the brake pedal fade. I would replace the master cylinder and have them bleed your abs system and drive it. Should be OK. The modulator can get wet from one of the solenoids purging and fluid leaking out the top of the resevoir. Just my .02

Bruce
 
Bruce,

I agree 100%, I was starting to composing this response, then I saw your post.

Any of us that have experience with the ABS know there are many reasons why the ABS modulator can be "wet", most of the time, not requiring replacement.

Do the MC, Good Luck.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Originally posted by PettittsAuto:
Your problem sounds like the typical master cylinder bypassing internally. The pedal fading down with constant pressure is almost always a bad master cylinder. The abs modulator has nothing to do with the brake pedal fade. I would replace the master cylinder and have them bleed your abs system and drive it. Should be OK. The modulator can get wet from one of the solenoids purging and fluid leaking out the top of the resevoir. Just my .02

Bruce

I just wanted to thank you guys for your fast reponse and I garantee you,that if the master cylinder only , I will give you my help on anything you may need down the line.I really thought that this people are trying to full me around,I hope.well now the master cylinder is in back order,any idea what to do.there is no mc available right now.
 
Originally posted by PettittsAuto:
Your problem sounds like the typical master cylinder bypassing internally. The pedal fading down with constant pressure is almost always a bad master cylinder. The abs modulator has nothing to do with the brake pedal fade. I would replace the master cylinder and have them bleed your abs system and drive it. Should be OK. The modulator can get wet from one of the solenoids purging and fluid leaking out the top of the resevoir. Just my .02

Bruce
Let me ask you, bleeding the abs is the same as bleeding the brake system?for example.if I replace the MC alone,the only thing I have to do is bleed the mc and then the brake calipers?right,I have done this job before on other cars,I just wanted make sure that is the regular procedure.

regards,AC
 
Originally posted by Larry Bastanza:
Bruce,

I agree 100%, I was starting to composing this response, then I saw your post.

Any of us that have experience with the ABS know there are many reasons why the ABS modulator can be "wet", most of the time, not requiring replacement.

Do the MC, Good Luck.

HTH,
LarryB

Guys can I consider a after market MC since the original acura MC is on back order?please let me know asap
or guys please call me 305-469-5355.I'm going to pick up the car right now.if one you guys can call me and let me know.

[This message has been edited by NSX TT (edited 01 October 2002).]
 
I don't recommend aftermarket parts when it comes to a safety item. I called Niello Acura and the release date for the master cylinder is 10/05/02 give or take a day or two. I personally would wait for the factory part. To answer your other question you do not have to bleed the abs when replacing the master cylinder. It would be a good idea to do it though. The dealer can use a scan tool with special software to excercise all of the solenoids. Good luck.

Bruce
 
Originally posted by PettittsAuto:
I don't recommend aftermarket parts when it comes to a safety item. I called Niello Acura and the release date for the master cylinder is 10/05/02 give or take a day or two. I personally would wait for the factory part. To answer your other question you do not have to bleed the abs when replacing the master cylinder. It would be a good idea to do it though. The dealer can use a scan tool with special software to excercise all of the solenoids. Good luck.

Bruce

once again.thanks for your help.by the way, the mechani at acura told me that the problem with the abs is that the selonoid were leaking but probably wiht a couple of run and use of the abs will probably take care of the problem.

[This message has been edited by NSX TT (edited 01 October 2002).]
 
Originally posted by PettittsAuto:
I don't recommend aftermarket parts when it comes to a safety item. I called Niello Acura and the release date for the master cylinder is 10/05/02 give or take a day or two. I personally would wait for the factory part. To answer your other question you do not have to bleed the abs when replacing the master cylinder. It would be a good idea to do it though. The dealer can use a scan tool with special software to excercise all of the solenoids. Good luck.

Bruce

I ordered the pump. now.the waiting process
 
Give me a call when the master cylinder comes in. I'd be happy to do the install with you if convienent. I've done a few on Porsches, and trust me, the NSX is going to be a piece of cake. I also have the factory shop manual and lot's of dental instruments in my garage. I'm sure we can get the job done right!
 
Originally posted by Dr.Lane:
Give me a call when the master cylinder comes in. I'd be happy to do the install with you if convienent. I've done a few on Porsches, and trust me, the NSX is going to be a piece of cake. I also have the factory shop manual and lot's of dental instruments in my garage. I'm sure we can get the job done right!

Once again, thank a lot
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There's a master cylinder for sale on NSX Parts posted today. Hope it helps.
 
FYI, many shipments from Japan (and anywhere else on the other side of the Pacific) are being held up due to this strike. So there might be a slight delay there - it's no one's fault (but the dockworkers), but that's another topic entirely.
 
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