TCS DIAGNOSIS, TCS stay on.

[Sato Kun]

I recently had brake problem and changed the master cylinder and piston in ALB solenoid(left rear). I got the brake oil breed fine and it has the noise. So I diagnosis and the indicator telimg me some sign, but I habe.no idea. If anyone can or know this problem? Key on then alb off, tcs off, tcs on, srs off. TCS is on ... turn on engine and the cel is on
Anyone any idea or could help me?

Thanks to NSX PRIME

 

[Old Guy]

Have you used the service check connector to trigger the display of error codes? Model year is always a useful detail because the systems did change during the production run.

 

[Sato Kun]

Thanks for the reply and yes this is diagnosis mode i have it jump and this is the code indicater giving me, I am so confused beause I can't match the code from the list or I just don't know how to read it.

 

[Old Guy]

You obviously have a non North American market car so you really need to consult the market specific service manual.

With the service check connector disconnected, does the TCS light stay on or does it go off? On the ALB / TCS systems, the warning light coming on and staying on with no blinks can be an indication of low voltage. It looks like the ABS turns off normally and the TCS light turns off once you start the car? If that is correct, I would check your battery voltage and check the battery connections and the connection to the TCS module.

Your CEL is staying on which is a sign of a stored code. Try erasing the code in the ECU to see if that makes the CEL go away. You could also try erasing the stored codes in the TCS (different fuse) to see if that clears the problem after check the battery voltages and connections.

 

[Sato Kun]

Thanks again and the battery using since 2021 Nov and I drove more than 40k km.
It may aout to change the battery thanks.

 

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Next time, please try recording under better lighting so that we can see volt reading, etc.

Did you see any warning lights while driving?
Just couldn’t understand what you were really trying to diagnose.

Any extra info on the exact issue would help in assisting you.

Also, as @Old Guy mentioned, please let us know extra info on the spec of your NSX.
Country spec, year model, MT/AT (I can see it’s AT), with/without EPS, any modifications, etc.

If JDM, please specify the first 3 digits of the VIN after the NA1- or NA2- code.
The [***] part of the NA1-***.
For example, NA1-100, -110, -120, etc.


Your video is just showing the normal behaviour when there was no error code stored with SCS shorted.

[TCS]: TCS warning light
SCS shorted -> IGSW ON -> [TCS] On for 2sec for the bulb check mode -> [TCS] Off for 0.5sec -> [TCS] On permanently if no code stored -> Eng started -> [TCS] Off after Eng fireup.

[ALB]: ALB warning light
ALB controller uses IG2 that is only active when IGSW in P2 ON position.
The controller will lose power (same as power cycling) during cranking for IGSW P3 START.
As soon as you release the IG key after starting the Eng, it will just repeat the bulb check mode again.

ALB controller can only display the error code once per IGSW cycle.
It will stop displaying ([ALB] stays Off) after timed out or displayed max 3 codes per IGSW cycle.

You’ll need to power cycle the controller (IGSW P0 or P1) to display the code again.
If no code stored, [ALB] will stay Off after the initial bulb check mode of about 1sec.

SCS shorted -> IGSW ON -> [ALB] On for 1sec for the bulb check mode -> [ALB] stays Off if no code stored -> IGSW P3 START (cranking) -> ALB controller power cycled -> [ALB] On for 1sec for the bulb check mode -> [ALB] stays Off until another power cycle.

[CEL]: Check Engine Light
If SCS shorted and no code stored, [CEL] would stay On until SCS removed even after Eng started.

[SRS]: SRS warning light
[SRS] is not within the SCS circuit.
Therefore, it will just follow the normal operation regardless of the SCS status.

IGSW ON -> [SRS] On for 6sec for the bulb check mode -> [SRS] stays Off until failure detected.


Please note that for some CEL codes, the [CEL] won’t be triggered until after same failure detected multiple times or same failure detected over multiple driving cycles.
However, the detection of the 1st occurence would be stored in the ECU even if you haven't seen the CEL.

Thus, it’s good idea to read the error code from time to time even if you haven’t seen any warning lights on the dash.

Kaz

 

[Sato Kun]

Thank you Kaz san
I Will take better one.
Thanks again

 

[Sato Kun]

Hi,
It is E-NA1 1004... Automatic 1992
While driving there is no light on indicator, but A.L.B. is making noise every 15 secs to 30 secs.

I usually have the A.L.B.1.4 fuse taken out to drive. When I diagnosis or self test mode, I reset and have all the fuse in and drove for 30mins.
The Pump was replaced on 2020, butno change on accumulator or switch.

Hipefully this can get some idea.
Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[Old Guy]

That noise suggests an ABS unit mechanical problem. I have a 2000 so no experience with the early ABS unit.

 

[Sato Kun]

Thanks KaZ san and old guy san

My seld diagnosis showing no error, i may just need to change the pressing switch or to uodate ABS.
Thanks again

 

[drew]

Jump the ALB accumulator pressure switch and that may pacify the TCS. If so, you know where the issue is

It is not difficult to rebuild the ALB. I posted recently on this.

 

[Sato Kun]

Thanks drew san

 

[drew]

I've advised you to jump the connector on a previous thread.

You really should try it and it may resolve your TCS issues.

Post in thread 'Best place to buy an ABS Accumulator'

22 December 2007

1. Go find the ALB pressure sensor, under the brake master/booster. It is round flat disc about 50mm in diameter with a orange connector. (see picture)
2. Unplug it.
3. Take the orange connector end that is on the end toward the car and jump/short the metal contacts inside it. Jump/short means to use a wire (something like a paperclip) and connect the two metal parts inside the connector.

Your system is now wired up to think the ABS is fully pressurized.

• drew

It is unlikely the compliance techs will know how to test the workings of the ALB. As long as there are no warning lights: your car is good to go. I find the ALB to be annoying and highly unsophisticated to be useful, but I'm old so there is that too.

Rebuilding the ALB is quite simple. Need an o-ring kit, a 9mm square socket, flexible tubing, line flare nut wrenches, and a couple of liters of brake fluid.

 

[Sato Kun]

Yes i have your old post, I have download in2021.
I watched many times of the how to rebuild too
I am little worry if I can do it right.
Thanks again

 

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Your NSX is NA1-100type.
Upto NA1-1005465, all JDM NSX had the 1st gen ALB/ABS that consists of 4 separated solenoid modules.

Watched the video.
As in my above message, all of your video so far are showing just the normal behaviour when there were no codes stored on any of the controllers.

No issues detected by the TCS or the ALB controllers.
TCS light is behaving normal when SCS shorted with no code stored so nothing wrong.
Nothing on the ECU.

This doesn't mean you have no problem as touched on this later.
It's just not 'detected' with the limit of algorithm and the CPU power of the controller.

Not related to your OP but you may want checking the alternator rectifier or its performance.
While your volt gauge would have some calibration offset by now, yours is close enough.

At IGSW P2 ON, you are getting about 12V. Good.
In P3 START (cranking), it’s just about 10V with warm engine so at least, your battery is not too bad.

However, once the eng started, you were only getting just over 13.0V.
Unless you have huge current consumption somewhere else, it should be around 14.0 – 14.5V with the state of your volt gauge calibration.
Way too low.
Possibly one or even multiple diodes punctured on the rectifier.
If using OEM Denso alternator, very easy to open the alternator and check it.

Hi,
It is E-NA1 1004... Automatic 1992
While driving there is no light on indicator, but A.L.B. is making noise every 15 secs to 30 secs.

I usually have the A.L.B.1.4 fuse taken out to drive. When I diagnosis or self test mode, I reset and have all the fuse in and drove for 30mins.
The Pump was replaced on 2020, butno change on accumulator or switch.

Hipefully this can get some idea.
Thanks for everyone's help.

You mentioned about the ALB making noise every 15sec – 30sec.

Q1: Is it the squeaking continuous noise of the ALB Pump?

Q2: Or, is it faint but multiple rapid clicking noise of 0.1 – 0.5sec interval and continues for about 1sec?

Q3: Are you sure you are driving with the ALB 1,4 fuse removed and not the ALB 2,3?
Also, what is the reason for removing one of the ALB fuse when driving?
If you remove it, you would be driving with the ALB warning light On all the time.

Q4: Have you ever seen ALB warning light and read the code related to the w/speed sensor?
(You won’t get any codes stored while driving with the ALB 2,3 fuse removed.)

Q5: Not easy to hear while driving but how often does the ALB pump get activated?
Please note that ALB pump and any ALB functions will be disabled while driving with the ALB warning light On.

Q6: Have you ever experienced brake pedal being pushed back when none of the wheels were locking up?
For example, while slowing down and the car just about becoming to halt, like when slowing down for the red traffic light.


If we are talking about the same noise, it’s actually the ALB solenoid being activated by the noisy signal by one or multiple w/speed sensor(s).

Driven few NSX with such issue.
Unfortunately, the 1st and 2nd gen. ALB controller CPU can’t detect this failure mode so no warning light.
Only the upgraded one body Bosch style ABS would detect such failure mode.

But we could be talking about different noise so will wait for the answers to the above questions.

Kaz