NO BRAKES. NEED HELP ASAP

Joined
15 July 2002
Messages
198
Location
MIAMI.FL USA
Hi guys,I JUST THIS CAR 2 DAYS AGO AND I'M HAVING A BIG PROBLEM,I WAS SO HAPPY WITH THE CAR AND OUT OF NO WHERE,MY BRAKE PEDAL GOES ALL THE WAY DOWN,SOMETIMES BRAKES OK,I NEED HELP ASAP.I CAN'T THIS IS HAPPENING TO ME ON THE 2ND DAY OF OWNERSHIP.FROM MY PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE WITH OTHER CARS.SOUND LIKE IS THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER,BUT I WANT TO KNOW IF ANY OF YOU GUYS HAD ANY PROBLEM LIKE THIS.THE CAR HAS 128K,I KNOW IS A LOT OF MILLAGE, BUT WHAT I NEED TO KNOW IS .IF THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER THE PROBLEM,ANY HELP WILL BE HIGHRLY APPRECIATED.MAYBE ONE OF YOU GUYS CAN TELL ME , WHERE TO BUY FOR A REASONABLE PRICE.ALL I CARE RIGHT KNOW IS TO FIX THE CAR AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

PLEASE HELP
 
Your probably correct, it could be the master cylinder...but I would probably check all 4 wheels first, actually whats behind each wheel. Look for signs of any wettness, or shine behind and around all the wheel parts.Then I'd check the brake and clutch fluid resevoirs which are located up front, by the spare tire. Also look at the fluid...does it look like muddy water or does it look somewhat new? If your clutch resevoir looks just as bad, well...

I use "Genuine Honda/Acura parts" when ever possible, don't be fooled by OEM (original equipment manufacturer)parts. "OEM" is not "Genuine". I am sorry to hear of your misfortune, but at 128k don't expect a trouble free vehicle, it's still a used car.

Saiyonara,

Choritsu-shi
wink.gif
 
Originally posted by Sensei:
Your probably correct, it could be the master cylinder...but I would probably check all 4 wheels first, actually whats behind each wheel. Look for signs of any wettness, or shine behind and around all the wheel parts.Then I'd check the brake and clutch fluid resevoirs which are located up front, by the spare tire. Also look at the fluid...does it look like muddy water or does it look somewhat new? If your clutch resevoir looks just as bad, well...

I use "Genuine Honda/Acura parts" when ever possible, don't be fooled by OEM (original equipment manufacturer)parts. "OEM" is not "Genuine". I am sorry to hear of your misfortune, but at 128k don't expect a trouble free vehicle, it's still a used car.

Saiyonara,

Choritsu-shi
wink.gif


FIRST OF ALL,THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR POST,YOU ARE THE FIRST ONE TO RESPONDED ME,I'VE BEEN SEATING ON MY COMPUTER FOR THE LAST 3 HOURS,WAITING FOR SOME RESPONSE,BY THE WAY, ALL THE FLUIDS ARE PRETTY CLEAN,NO SIGN OF ANY DIRT.BUT WHAT I WAS WONDERING SINCE THIS IS MY FIRST NSX, IF THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THEM? ALL OF MY PREVIOUS VEHICLE , NEVER GAVE ANY PROBLEM WITH THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER.I CAN DO PRETTY MUCH ANYTHING ON THE CAR,I JUST WANTED TO BE SURE BEFORE GO AND SPEND THE MONEY ON A NEW MASTER CYLINDER AND THEN NOT BE THE PROBLEM.I NEED TO FIX THIS PROBLEM AS SOON AS POSSIBLE,IS KILLING ME.
ONCE AGAIN THANKS FOR RESPONDING.
 
Hmmmn...I am not aware of any brake master cylinder issues other than normal wear. What year is your NSX? 5spd, 6spd, automatic? Were there any "check engine", "TCS", or "ABS" lights coming on? Don't count on it being the master cylinder just yet. What about the brake booster?

Thru various codes the NSX has a self-diaognostic system which can help isolate the problem. Have the codes checked by professional tech. It may be something as simple as re-bleeding your brake lines PROPERLY. Unlike most vehicles, Honda's bleeding proceedures are 1st)right rear, 2nd)left front, 3rd)left rear 4th)right front.

If you plan on working on it yourself get a factory manual, it will give you the proper procedures to check other brake related items.

Anyways, I thought there was a way to check the service history of the NSX's by VIN # thru the dealerships. Anyone?

Choritsu-shi
wink.gif
 
Originally posted by Sensei:
Anyways, I thought there was a way to check the service history of the NSX's by VIN # thru the dealerships. Anyone?

Only for warranty work. Any customer-paid work and you would have to talk to the dealership that actually did the work because those records are not shared.
 
Originally posted by Lud:
Only for warranty work. Any customer-paid work and you would have to talk to the dealership that actually did the work because those records are not shared.

WELL,MY CAR IS 1991 5 SPEED.THERE IS NO WARNING LIGHT ON OR NOTHING LIKE THAT,THE CAR WAS STOPING FINE UNTIL ONE TIME START DOING IT,THE PEDAL WENT ALL THE WAY DOWN AND THE REGAIN PREASURE AGAIN,THEN WONT DO IT AFTER SEVERAL MORE BRAKES,ANDTHEN DO IT AGAIN,I'M GOING CRAZY ON THIS ONE SINCE IS MY FIRST NSX.I KNOW WHEN THE MASTER CYLINDER IS BAD ,ONE STEP ON THE BRAKE AND CAN FEEL THE PEDAL GOES DOWN SLOWLY ,BUT NOT ON AND OFF LIKE MINE DOES.

NEED HELP ASAP

THANKS,AC
 
Are the brakes pumping up? I am confused by the brakes/no brakes thing. If they can be pumped up to get a pedal it might just be air in the system. Give them a good bleeding with new fluid.

------------------
Happy Motoring At all Costs!
 
Originally posted by JPS Europa:
Are the brakes pumping up? I am confused by the brakes/no brakes thing. If they can be pumped up to get a pedal it might just be air in the system. Give them a good bleeding with new fluid.


I JUST CAME FROM ACURA DEALER, I TALKED WITH ONE OF THE MECHANIC.HE TOLD ME THAT 90% THAT IS THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER.BUT NOW I'M TRYING TO PLACE AN ORDER, BUT THERE IS NO PUMP AVAILABLE.DOES ANYONE KNOW WHO MIGHT HAVE?I NEED BY TOMORROW.
 
I have a pump to bleed the brake system. Where are you in Miami? I'd be more than willing to come down and do a full system bleed with you. Send me an e-mail with your phone number and I'll give you a call.
 
Originally posted by Dr.Lane:
I have a pump to bleed the brake system. Where are you in Miami? I'd be more than willing to come down and do a full system bleed with you. Send me an e-mail with your phone number and I'll give you a call.


HI.Is really nice to see that there is still nice people on this world.I really want to thank you for your offer.
 
Originally posted by NSX TT:
HI.Is really nice to see that there is still nice people on this world.I really want to thank you for your offer.

Well, did you take Dr. Lane up on his generous offer? Bleeding the whole system would be the best place to start. If you do buy a master cylinder, you will have to bleed the brakes again. Is there any other way to check the rest of the brake system without going and buying a new master cylinder and THEN finding out if that fixed it? Anyone?
Good luck,
John
 
Originally posted by ANYTIME:
Well, did you take Dr. Lane up on his generous offer? Bleeding the whole system would be the best place to start. If you do buy a master cylinder, you will have to bleed the brakes again. Is there any other way to check the rest of the brake system without going and buying a new master cylinder and THEN finding out if that fixed it? Anyone?
Good luck,
John

Like i said I went to the dealer and i spoke with one mechanic.I told him what the car was doing and he told me that 90% was the master cylinder,the car is braking fine for a while and out the blue the pedal goes all the way down.that was really scary.I dont even want to drive it like that anymore,and now there is no pump available in usa.go figure,no luck with my first nsx
frown.gif
 
Relax, just because you have a problem, doesn't mean the NSX is junk. I just installed a CTSC and started having problems(my cars a 00' with 3k miles) and all that was wrong was a loose wire. If you need a master cylinder, then replace it and enjoy your car! No car is problem free and sometimes issues come at the most inopportune time. Mine happened 1hr. before the canyonball drive. I am sure that you will figure out the problem. Can your local NSX tech do a check on your brake system? I understand that he knows the symtoms, but isn't there tests he can do to narrow down the cause? I can't see just throwing parts at the car and hoping they are correct. The NSX brake system is very complex and more than just a master cylinder and a proportioning valve. I say, have some more diagnosis done.
Good luck again,
John
 
Originally posted by ANYTIME:
Relax, just because you have a problem, doesn't mean the NSX is junk. I just installed a CTSC and started having problems(my cars a 00' with 3k miles) and all that was wrong was a loose wire. If you need a master cylinder, then replace it and enjoy your car! No car is problem free and sometimes issues come at the most inopportune time. Mine happened 1hr. before the canyonball drive. I am sure that you will figure out the problem. Can your local NSX tech do a check on your brake system? I understand that he knows the symtoms, but isn't there tests he can do to narrow down the cause? I can't see just throwing parts at the car and hoping they are correct. The NSX brake system is very complex and more than just a master cylinder and a proportioning valve. I say, have some more diagnosis done.
Good luck again,
John

Well,if the people from the dealer ship I bought it from can't fix it by monday, then I will take it to the dealer for inspection.

ARMANDO
 
I have had a very similar experiance to yours. I simply changed the front pads (they were worn out), completely bled the system, bed in new pads, and everything was perfect.

It's your money but I would take Dr. Lane up on his offer to bleed the system. You only have $10 in fluid to loose and you would learn a lot about the proceedure in the process.

IMO - if you just run to Acura every time there is an aledged problem - you are going to get taken to the cleaners and you will really hate this car.
 
Originally posted by matteni:
I have had a very similar experiance to yours. I simply changed the front pads (they were worn out), completely bled the system, bed in new pads, and everything was perfect.

It's your money but I would take Dr. Lane up on his offer to bleed the system. You only have $10 in fluid to loose and you would learn a lot about the proceedure in the process.

IMO - if you just run to Acura every time there is an aledged problem - you are going to get taken to the cleaners and you will really hate this car.

Great advice Matteni...
 
This is waired becouse for the last few days my brakes started to act up too.

When driving on highway it is fine, bracking is fine and stops the wheels in a sec
smile.gif


When in city traffic right a way after few traffic lights the pedal goes down all the way. When I pump the pedal it gets little stiffer.

I bleed my system and gived ABS little workup on rain but still the same thing. Check all wheels for licks and changed brake oil. I have vented cross drilled/slotted disks with OEM calipers.

It must be the master cylynder.
Let me know if it fixes your problem. For now I just live with it becouse drive my nsx like once a week
frown.gif


Thanks
 
Okay, now you guys are making me look this stuff up
smile.gif
Here are 4 simple tests that you can do yourselves to check the brake booster. In the 3rd test, I did come across an interesting fact which involves the Air Conditioning system...I hope this helps.

1) With to engine stopped, depress the brake pedal several times to complete the vacuum reservoir, then depress the pedal hard and hold it for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, either the master cylinder is bypassing internally, or the brake system, is leaking.(master cylinder, linings, modulator, proportioning valve, or calipers)

2)Start the engine with the pedal depressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is operating normally, if the pedal height does not very, the booster or check valve is faulty. With the engine running, you can pull the vacuum hose off the brake booster. If there is no vacuum coming from the hose, the check valve is bad.

3)With the engine running, depress the brake pedal lightly. Apply just enough pressure to hold back “automatic transmission creep”, if the brake pedal sinks more than one inch(25mm) in three minutes, the master cylinder is faulty. A slight change in pedal height when the AC compressor cycles on and off is normal. The AC compressor load changes the vacuum available to the booster.

4)Depress the brake pedal with the engine running, then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary while depressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is okay. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty.


[This message has been edited by Sensei (edited 29 September 2002).]
 
Originally posted by winreboot:
This is waired becouse for the last few days my brakes started to act up too.

When driving on highway it is fine, bracking is fine and stops the wheels in a sec
smile.gif


When in city traffic right a way after few traffic lights the pedal goes down all the way. When I pump the pedal it gets little stiffer.

I bleed my system and gived ABS little workup on rain but still the same thing. Check all wheels for licks and changed brake oil. I have vented cross drilled/slotted disks with OEM calipers.

It must be the master cylynder.
Let me know if it fixes your problem. For now I just live with it becouse drive my nsx like once a week
frown.gif


Thanks


THIS IS EXACTLY THE SAME PROBLEM I GOT.SAME SAME SAME EXACT PROBLEM.
 
Originally posted by Sensei:
Okay, now you guys are making me look this stuff up
smile.gif
Here are 4 simple tests that you can do yourselves to check the brake booster. In the 3rd test, I did come across an interesting fact which involves the Air Conditioning system...I hope this helps.

1) With to engine stopped, depress the brake pedal several times to complete the vacuum reservoir, then depress the pedal hard and hold it for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, either the master cylinder is bypassing internally, or the brake system, is leaking.(master cylinder, linings, modulator, proportioning valve, or calipers)

2)Start the engine with the pedal depressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is operating normally, if the pedal height does not very, the booster or check valve is faulty. With the engine running, you can pull the vacuum hose off the brake booster. If there is no vacuum coming from the hose, the check valve is bad.

3)With the engine running, depress the brake pedal lightly. Apply just enough pressure to hold back “automatic transmission creep”, if the brake pedal sinks more than one inch(25mm) in three minutes, the master cylinder is faulty. A slight change in pedal height when the AC compressor cycles on and off is normal. The AC compressor load changes the vacuum available to the booster.

4)Depress the brake pedal with the engine running, then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary while depressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is okay. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty.


[This message has been edited by Sensei (edited 29 September 2002).]

I WILL DO THIS I WILL LET YOU KNOW.I NEED SOME TYPE OF DIAGNOSTIC,SO I WILL TRY THIS.
THANKS A MILLION.
 
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