New owner. Mini fix it / build thread

[Tech7042]

06/14/2012

Haven't updated in a while. Been busy with work and been enjoying the car. It is running strong and smooth with virtually no issues whatsoever. I have done multiple long road trips to and from the beach (300 miles round trip). The only thing I have really noticed is a minor poof of smoke at the top of the RPM range when letting off the gas or in between shifts. I was doing some research and trying to put a finger on what it was. Since it didn't smoke all the time, I ruled out the common oil restrictor fix. I went after the possibility of excessive crankcase pressure/blow by.

Since I had the Science of Speed catch can equipped, I thought of ways to improve its functionality, and ability to breathe. I basically reworked the plumbing using AN fittings and lines, Added an extra breather port for the front valve cover, and added more breather filters.

First step was to remove the valve cover and tap it out using a 1/2 NPT tap to accept the -8AN fitting:

You have to partially remove the baffle inside the valve cover in order for the tap to thread all the way through:

Fitting installed:

90* (found later that a 45* works better):

Next I started working on the can itself. I bought a cheap aluminum oil cap and tapped it out using the 1/2NPT tap. I then fitted it using a -10AN fitting.

Next I drilled out and tapped the catch can to accept new hose barb fittings, which would hold the new breather filter elements:

Catch can with hose barbs fitted and filters ready to be installed:

Installed finished product:

I replaced the rubber hose from each valve cover using -8AN nylon hose and used hose finishers to complete the look. I used -10AN braided hose to connect the new oil cap breather to the can. Oh and while I was in there, I installed the SOS coolant tank.

This setup really helped a TON. There is no more smoke in my rear view in between shifts! I want to modify it further by adding another breather port on the rear valve cover and by rigging up a self draining system.

Made it to Ocean City Car show this past weekend:

parked with FD3SNSX's ITB setup which won 1st Place BEST EXOTIC!!

And last but not least, my girlfriend got me this snazzy TURBOSMART dual stage boost controller for my birthday!!

Itching to install it...

 

[Nefarious]

Nice job man. Way to think outside the box. Your boy needs to post up some new pics of his ride too. Still waiting to see some new angles of it since you guys finished it.

 

[myw]

your engine bay looks amazingly clean.

not at all surprised that tae's nsx took home a title! congrats!

 

[FD3SNSX]

Nice job man. Way to think outside the box. Your boy needs to post up some new pics of his ride too. Still waiting to see some new angles of it since you guys finished it.

Oh the car is not done lol

 

[doc_tai]

Wonder what size oil restrictor u r running? Most guys run 0.03"

 

[Tech7042]

Wonder what size oil restrictor u r running? Most guys run 0.03"

Didn't like the idea of running a restrictor, so instead I swapped the -4AN feed line to a -3AN. The car does not smoke one bit after the catch can mod, and even cleaned it up at the top of the RPM range after I changed the oil line.

 

[Tech7042]

06/28/2012: Finally got around to installing my Turbosmart dual stage boost controller. The controller allows me to switch from a low boost setting (wastegate spring 5psi) to a high boost setting (9psi) with the flip of a switch. The controller is a very nicely made high quality part. The instructions to wire the controller have you wire in a rocket launcher switch to activate the unit.

At first I really wanted to have a rocket launcher switch mounted somewhere in the car.... but the more I thought about it, the more cheesy it seemed. I just couldn't find anywhere to mount it that wouldn't look unobtrusive.

After thinking it through, I decided that I wanted the switch to be easily accessible for on the fly switches, and most of all I wanted the switch to look factory, or even hidden if possible. I decided on deleting my cruise control, and using the cruise control switch to activate the controller (since I never use cc anyway, and later on down the road is an aftermarket steering wheel). Doing this not only simplified installation of the controller, but it achieved the stealthy look and functionality I was after. The cool thing about this mod is that If I ever want to return back to stock, All I have to do is de-pin the connector I made, and return the two wires back to their respective cavities.

On with the pics from the install:

Controller and 2P connectors used to make a complete plug and play installation with custom sub-harness:

Locate cruise control unit connector:

Use ETM to find power and ground source for control unit and de-pin:

Re-pin using 2P connector:

Test operation of switch. 0V with switch off:

Battery voltage with switch on:

Run wire from boost controller in engine bay to newly made connector and plug in:

And test for voltage at the controller:

Installed and plumbed:

Old TURBOXs manual boost controller:

MAN THIS SETUP IS AWESOME! The cruise control switch works great as an initiator. Clean and tidy wiring, plug and play controller with custom sub-harness makes for clean and functional install. I'm going to look into ways I can change out the lettering on illuminated switch to read BOOST+ instead of CRUISE.

also, my headliner had started sagging.... to the point where it was touching my head. :-/ So I had a local shop redo my headliner in black alcantara. Their work is amazing:

For now, I used duplicolor vynil paint to refinish my visors, a pillars and b pillars in black. This stuff works great. I plan to have them wrapped in the future:

and a random shot that I took in downtown bethesda:

Thats it for now, stay tuned as I have even more planned.

 

[PHOEN$X]

Looks sweet! The interior looks amazing, and love that last shot of the car with the white rims. :smile:

 

[Fuoss484]

Just read through this. Such a clean build. Your car looks amazing! Much inspiration.

 

[myw]

that interior is looking sexy

 

[06_typeS]

Great build. Do you have plans or are you currently running meth?

 

[MidnightSun]

Tech7042- this thread and you rule. That is all.

x100000000:biggrin:

You should open a business giving new life to such a beautiful car.

Ditto

 

[Tech7042]

Thanks for all the comments guys! Here is a link to the photo shoot I just had done:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1622249#post1622249

 

[NSX105]

Sick

 

[stevieray122854]

Shit hot. Bravo!

 

[StupidJunior]

why did u take the turbo off???

 

[myclue]

looking good!

 

[Tech7042]

2013 rebuild

Haven't updated the thread in a while. Been busy with a rebuild. A few months ago, I was exploring options for changing out the turbo kit for a twin turbo kit, but was unable to make it work. So instead, I was going to install a water/meth kit, new clutch and tune for more boost to put down some more power. Before I did anything, I performed a compression and leakdown test on the engine to see how everything has held up:

Cyl1: 150psi
Cyl2: 200psi
Cyl3: 200psi
Cyl4: 200psi
Cyl5: 200psi
Cyl6: 200psi

We have a problem. The leakage test was showing a 20% leak in cylinder 1. Weird thing was the engine ran like a BEAST and never showed any signs of failure. Smooth idle, no power loss, just normal as it ever was. It was at this point that I decided the best route for me to take was a rebuild with fresh forged internals. The car is a street car, so the goal is safe, reliable, streetable performance. So the list of upgrades planned are as follows:

-Forged pistons
-Upgraded valvetrain
-Water to air cooler
-Fuel system upgrade
-Clutch
-Tune with E85

Goal is 550WHP.

So begins the teardown:

And here is the problem. I guess stock pistons don't hold up well against boost:

Broken ring lands. I'm surprised. . .it could have been MUCH worse. Cylinder walls are in great shape. Only normal wear is present, which means I will be able to get away with just a rehone and new pistons. Glad I caught it when I did.

And here are the new Wiseco 9.2:1 Forged pistons with xylan skirt coatings:

I dropped the pistons and pins off at my machine shop to have the small ends of the connecting rods bored out to accept the new floating wrist pins. While they are doing that, I started gapping the rings to the required end gap.

All in all, it took me about 8 hours to gap the rings. It's a slow and precision process, but it'll be worth it in the end!

Ordered up some fresh intake and exhaust valves from SOS, along with some LMA's and headgaskets. These are the forged steel nitrite coated and inconel valves that they offer:

Valve job and installed:

Right now I'm waiting on my pistons and rods to come back from the machine shop. Once they arrive, I should have startup within a day of getting them back. Stay tuned for updates!

 

[Vi3tBoy]

exciting! I am def. tuned in

 

[doc_tai]

Interested to see how u do ur fuel system upgrade? Twin walbro pumps to feed two separate fuel line to each rail?

 

[Tech7042]

Interested to see how u do ur fuel system upgrade? Twin walbro pumps to feed two separate fuel line to each rail?

It's a rough sketch right now, but I'm going either one of two routes. Since I already have the walbro 255, I am going to either use the 255 to feed a surge tank that will house a Bosch 044 which will feed the rails. Or I will get an in tank hanger that will allow me to run twin 044. -8AN lines on the feed and -6AN on the return. FPR, and ID 1000's.

 

[felixR]

Awesome thread. Keep it up!

 

[nsxot1c]

Very Very nice work!! This thing is going to be a beast!!

 

[Honcho]

Very nice work! It is awesome to see a C30A teardown job with pics.

 

[Tech7042]

Awesome thread. Keep it up!

Very Very nice work!! This thing is going to be a beast!!

Very nice work! It is awesome to see a C30A teardown job with pics.

Thanks guys! it's always fun to dive into a project like this. Can't wait to put it all together!