Need Help ASAP: Car won't start, windows won't go up!

Due to the 110 degree Texas heat outside right now (no shade over the car) I have to take a break. . can't take it.. So I will resume when the sun moves a little behind the tree..

I TRULY thank every one of you for your help so far. We will figure this one out!

- Sweaty
 
This might or might not help, had a similiar problem couple of months ago. Car just won't crank, no tell sign of power problem. After further investigation found the battery connection was a bit loose, can't really tell initially. But after retightening(plus connector cleaner) the battery connector the problem went away.
Just double check the battery as well.
 
I just sent you a PM with my contact info, I'm in nort dallas (frisco) if you want to borrow my main relay and give it a shot.


-j
 
Alright.. here is what I've done.

- Checked every fuse.. All okay

- Removed the ignition switch and clean it up and re-installed. Still nothing.

- Took my Main Relay out and headed up to JBLACK's house to pick up his Main Relay to test.. Unfortunately, his 04 has a different relay. :(

- decided to open up my main relay and check it out. .everything looked clean inside.. (wasn't really sure what I was looking for) so I reassembled and put it back in the car.. Tried again.. nothing..

- I attemped the knock test again.. turned the key to the 3rd position (spring loaded position) and started knocking on the relay..

Woot! the car started up. Like an idiot.. I turned the car off to see if I could do it again (without rolling up the windows). After a few minutes of knocking.. I got it to start up again.. and rolled the windows up. I left the car running and put my stuff up so that I could drive the car home and put it in the garage.. Once I was ready to leave, I put the car in reverse to pull out of my spot and it died. Got it to start up again.. put it in reverse and it died. I haven't been able to get it started since... I'm gonna try again after dinner.

I'm trying to decide if I should leave the car here and pick up a new main relay tomorrow and put it in.. or attempt to drive it home this evening (20 mins highway and side streets)

I know all of my symptoms just don't make sense.. but I've confirm that they are as noted.

Derek
 
Too weird - don't know why all those syptoms would be caused by main relay.
As far as fixing that goes, try this repair (also more details here of how to solder it) - cheaper than a new relay even if you don't have a solder iron & have to buy one!

I'm skeptical that is the problem though - the switch appears more likely - did you test the voltage either side of it? Much more conclusive re diagnosis!
 
Me neither.. I'll resolder in the morning!

I didn't spend any time with the multimeter on the Main Relay.. I was just tired of working on it. :( I'm just glad I got the windows up.

Perhaps the AEM has something to do with the windows? The main relay is actually 2 relays, I learned.
 
ALIENT said:
Perhaps the AEM has something to do with the windows? The main relay is actually 2 relays, I learned.
No - the power for these functions come from different circuits.

The ignition power to main relay is as follows - Fuse 29 then ignition switch & then goes off through fuse 13 for PGM-FI main relay.

Th power windows actually get their power through a relay which is connected directly to battery power (no ignition switch for main power interrupt) but the power window relay is energized via the integrated control unit. Now that receives power from IG1 via a completely different parallel circuit to (& independent of!) that for PG1. There is NOTHING in the post-PG1 circuit that comes back & in any way could inhibit the windows. The only things common are fuse 29 & the ignition switch - fuse can be discounted since they aren't intermittant but switches can be.

I meant to check the ignition with your multimeter, not your relay.
Ideally when it's not working, just check the voltage out on the black/yellow wire with the switch in ignition position. If you don't want to lay under dash it might be easier to turn switch to ignition position then check for voltage on fuse 13 in the engine bay panel. If there's no power present then your switch is bad.
 
This morning I got up early and resoldered the solder points on the Main Relay. After installing it.. there was no change.

Next I got under the dash and used the multimeter to test the black/yellow wire and it had power at position 2 (IGN I assume).

I just thought I would try again after testing the black/yellow wire.. and the car started up... Haven't had any problems since.. I took advantage of this and drove home and put the car into my garage.

I shut the car off and started a few times.. started up everytime without a hitch. But that really doesn't help much because I'm too scared to take the car anywhere (in fear that this will happen again).. and I can't figure out a root cause.

Not sure where to go from here.. I have a feeling that I won't be able to replicate what happened.. :( :(
 
I will attempt to logically go through all the steps again and try to find the root cause and post my findings here.

You guys have been great! I am very thankful to have such an awesome crew of knowledgable and helpful people available. I'd love to buy all of you a drink sometime..

Derek
 
Perhaps when you tested the bl/ye wire by moving it you restored continuity from a loose connection. Intermittant electrical problems suck. You have my sympathy.
 
Buy a new switch for peace of mind
35130-SL0-A01 - you're looking at ~ $60 from discount supplier ($75 retail)

I'm convinced that's the issue
 
This happened to me about a month ago. The negative connection on the battery cable was just a bit lose. Wiggled it around and eventually it started up again. No problem since. I did notice the clamp was on but not real tight.
 
I'm convinced that's the issue

While I can see getting a new switch: If you do: put it in the trunk.

The switch is easily hooked to the harness and you can easily operate the car with it flopping around on the carpet. At least you will know if you solved the problem....

I would also get a Main Relay and throw that in the trunk too. It is also field replaceable.

I'm leaning toward battery cable issues too.


Drew
/The ignition switch is extremely well made and there isn't much to wear out. It does get dirty though which causes poor contact.
 
drew said:
...I'm leaning toward battery cable issues too.....

What's stopping me going here, Drew, is that his ACC functions are working - including the AC which should be drawing a fair amount of power from the blowers. Also he's not messing with the battery cables so nothing is changing there in parked situation, whereas interacting with the switch is possibly disturbing things.
I rule out the PG1 conclusively (at least to me!) because the other symptoms are unrelated to it.
 
I checked the battery cables.. all nice tight and clean..

But I am not discounting anything..

Even though the car started while I was tapping on the main relay.. like D'Ecosse, I'm not convinced that was it.. might have been a fluke.. or maybe issues with both things.. ??
 
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