Need Help ASAP: Car won't start, windows won't go up!

[ALIENT]

Dropped a friend off at home.. but when I got back to the car, it wouldn't start. Doesn't even click.. The windows won't roll up, but the AC, radio, seats all work.. I don't think it's a battery issue..

I also don't hear the click of the fuel relay.

My car is stuck in the street right now at 2am with the windows down..


Any suggestions? I tried to check all of the fuses and they all look okay..

Please help..

 

[kam3ham3]

I'm no mechanic but I would try to jump it first if possible. It's worth a try. Good luck!

 

[ALIENT]

I'm no mechanic but I would try to jump it first if possible. It's worth a try. Good luck!

I'll give it a shot.

 

[ALIENT]

Jumping did nothing

 

[Jin1976]

Which terminal did you used for jumping the battery?

 

[DutchBlackNsx]

Main relay?

 

[ALIENT]

Which terminal did you used for jumping the battery?

Actually used the battery..

 

[ALIENT]

Main relay?

Not sure, can the main relay knock out the windows too ??

 

[Jin1976]

Please refer to this link.

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Troubleshooting/TroubleStarting.htm

Actually used the battery..

 

[rbirling]

I'm guessing ignition switch. Do the lights on the dash come on? If you wiggle the key does it help?

 

[Hugh]

Actually used the battery..

It might be a bad connection from the battery's negative terminal ground strap to the bulkhead. Try jumping the car the right way from the fuse block in the engine compartment. If you have it in the glove box, RTM!

 

[ALIENT]

Wiggling the ignition switch key thing has no effect.

Thanks for the link, I read that page.

It said turn the key and the lights on the dash will come on. My dash lights don't come on. But my stereo, AC and little abient temp fan all come on. The key chime does also come on.

Can this still be an ignition switch problem?

 

[ALIENT]

Aside from trying to get the car started, is there a hack to get the windows up? Some kind of a shunt or bypass cable?

 

[Hugh]

The window circuit is tied in to the ignition switch. Leading me to believe that you indeed have an ignition switch issue. Try a blast of WD-40 in the key slot and try wiggling the key a bit. Hopefully you can get the car to a more secure location or if not at least get a locking car cover to protect it until it can be flat bedded. Do you have AAA? If you don't I bet you will soon. Your auto insurance policy might include towing services. If you're not sure, call the number on your ID card.

 

[ALIENT]

It might be a bad connection from the battery's negative terminal ground strap to the bulkhead. Try jumping the car the right way from the fuse block in the engine compartment. If you have it in the glove box, RTM!

thanks Hugh.. I didn't mention.. My car has a BBSC and the relocation of the rear fuse box makes it impossible to use the terminals in there. ( I was trying to keep it simple )

The car gets plenty of power. I feel that it's some sort of relay, switch or fuse is keeping it from doing anything. The lights don't dim when I turn the key and none of the tell-tale signs of bad power are apparent.

 

[ALIENT]

Try a blast of WD-40 in the key slot and try wiggling the key a bit. Hopefully you can get the car to a more secure location or if not at least get a locking car cover to protect it until it can be flat bedded.

I'll give it a shot.. Thanks Hugh.

 

[D'Ecosse]

You have accessory but no ignition or starter power - check fuse #29 (50A) in the under-hood panel.

 

[DutchBlackNsx]

Not sure, can the main relay knock out the windows too ??

mm... no...lol, missed that one.....:biggrin:

 

[ALIENT]

Thanks! I'll check it out..

Why are the windows not working? Are the part of that 'system'?

 

[D'Ecosse]

Thanks! I'll check it out..

Why are the windows not working? Are the part of that 'system'?

There are two igintion circuits IG1 & IG2; most ignition controlled 'stuff' works off IG1 circuit.

There are two fuses that go to the ignition switch -
one feeds IG2 & ACC power (Fuse 12 in Engine compartment) which is OK since you have ACC functions; you can also validate IG2 functionality by testing the power mirrors (Switch must be in ignition position).

The second fuse that feeds IG1 circuit is from fuse 29 - this feeds all kinds of stuff, but primarily the ones you need to run (& the indicator lights) and as you have found, the power windows.
There are many fuses which tap off after the ignition switch but that fuse is the 'master' for all those sub functions if you will.

Check out the power distribution scheme in the manual - page 1039 & surrounding pages is area you want to look at.

Could be the switch itself, but the fuse also a good contender - when the switch is in IGN position, do the ACC functions continue to work?

 

[ALIENT]

you can also validate IG2 functionality by testing the power mirrors (Switch must be in ignition position).

I have the k-craft non-powered mirrors now

The second fuse that feeds IG1 circuit is from fuse 29 - this feeds all kinds of stuff, but primarily the ones you need to run (& the indicator lights) and as you have found, the power windows.
There are many fuses which tap off after the ignition switch but that fuse is the 'master' for all those sub functions if you will.

I tested the 50A fuse under the hood with a multi-meter. It is not blown.

Could be the switch itself, but the fuse also a good contender - when the switch is in IGN position, do the ACC functions continue to work?

This is position II on the key right? ACC functions work in that position also.
I got some WD40.. I'm gonna go spray the keyhole area now.

 

[D'Ecosse]

Remove the access tray under the dash to be able to test the connections on the ignition switch. It might also be easier to access if you can remove the knee bolster

Since you have a multimeter, then check the black/yellow wire that comes off the ignition switch - that should have power when you are in the ign position. To ensure the power is getting to the input side of the switch (off fuse 29) check the white/red

If you have power on input but not on output then the switch is bad.

 

[ALIENT]

Alright. .I'll give that a try in a sec.

I wanted to also mention that I have an AEM unit. Do you think that could be contributing to some of these issues? I'm not sure where the fuse for the AEM is, but if that was blown could the symptoms be similar?

 

[Briank]

There are 2 wires from the + side of the battery, Black and Black/Red. My guess is the black/red one is disconnected.

 

[drew]

Chances are the ignition switch contacts are dirty and need to be cleaned.

You can easily service your ignition switch, it is a few minute job and makes it function as new. No need to wait for new parts and save your money for something necessary.

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showpost.php?p=436339&postcount=5

Here is somebody who actually did the rebuild:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showpost.php?p=513504&postcount=7


Don't have to remove the knee bolster. Just the undercover and a 6mm or phillips screwdriver. The whole job is in the 10-15 minute range.

Drew
/I'm a skeptic of the WD40 down the keyhole...there isn't any good path for the fluid to reach the contacts...the electrical part of the ignition switch is very well insulated against such a method.