Wrapped up a fun little project here over this past weekend. My NSX is now almost at 117k miles, and with that, comes the necessity to replace old and worn components.
Earlier this year, the Southwest region hosted its 3rd annual NSX WestFest event, which was for sure our best one yet. On my way home from Las Vegas, I began hearing the dreaded "humming" coming from the front left wheel bearing every time I'd decelerate to stop. I knew it was time to replace the front wheel bearings!
I began searching online for the wheel bearings, going through the typical sources like OEM Acura Parts, etc. I remembered RockAuto kept bugging me about my expiring promotional code, so I figured what the heck, lets take a gander. Much to my surprise, there were only 2 remaining Timken front and rear wheel bearings, so to maximize my 5% off code and future proof the rears, I ordered all 4.
In typical lazy Mexi fashion, I'd go on to partake in several canyon runs with the So Cal NSX group, as well as separate runs with some local buddies. The main route up in ACH was closed for maintenance and forced us to reroute, which unexpectedly proved to be much more fun than the "normal" way through.
It was on this last So Cal NSX run that we organized, carving through ACH and having lunch at Lake Arrowhead, where I really felt the negative effects of a worn bearing. Aside from the noise, vibrations became apparent, so I knew it was officially time.
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Wheel hubs removed as well as the axle nuts. Heavy duty impact is key for axle nut removal.
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The bearing separator tool I purchased from harbor freight came with these steel rods with threaded ends, but they were not long enough. A trip to home depot for some threaded rod and 4 nuts to secure it as well as hacksaw to cut the rod to length came in handy.
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Now we are in business. When you have the right tools, any job can be easy.
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New Timken wheel hub and p/n for reference
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Since I was replacing the wheel bearings, I took the opportunity to also replace the front wheel studs. They are a wear item often overlooked as the ones on my car were tired and beat. Pictured above are the OEM rear wheel studs off a 96-98 Acura TL. I went with the Dorman variant, p/n pictured for reference. The OEM Acura p/n is 90113-SD2-005.
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These OEM studs are 5mm longer than our stock ones. Because I am running Tarox BBK, the top hats are 5mm thicker over stock. Not that it's a safety hazard, but why not run these OEM studs and regain stock wheel stud protrusion. I already have them pressed in to my rear back when I had the CV boots replaced.
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I have to credit Honda-Tech for this information as I still frequent the site for information and research. One of the biggest concerns about running these was the knurling diameter. Some said it was safe, others said it may be a bit smaller in diameter than their (honda civic) car's stock counterpart. I went ahead and measured them both and turns out the TL studs are just a hair larger in diameter than our stock ones. This could potentially be because the knurling on my used stud is worn, but either I am sure these are perfectly safe to run.
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Wheel studs being pressed in.
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Next order of business was removal of the inner race. I went ahead and cut some grooves in the bearing so that my separator tool can dig in and clamp properly.
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All set up and ready for removal
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No for the fun part, pressing the new bearings in. HUGE thank you to Jimmy (
@flexthatdx) for loaning me his press and Tyler (ex-owner but always so cal nsx family member) for loaning me his custom made wheel hub cradle. The cradle he made was especially important for pressing the new bearings in. I don't know why, but pressing the new bearings in was very soothing and relaxing lol
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My ghetto wheel hub placeholder for torquing the axle nut back to 242 ft/lbs. Just a 5x114.3 steelie I had laying around.
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Back to factory wheel stud protrusion
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All done!! Ready to rock n roll
Cushions are already orange alcantara, so just waiting on the leather outers- I bought a hide called "Black Pebble". It's a very soft, low sheen black with a fine grain. Should look awesome. One thing on fitment- the "wings" on the shells are about the same width as the Pole Position (584mm vs 580mm for the PP), but during test fitting in the car, I noticed they touch the door panel when it is closed. Spencer says his DF-R seats do it too. Do yours? I am going with Planted direct-bolt brackets, so I have some room to move the seat around, but I'm wondering if there is a positioning trick to get the door to close without hitting the seat!
