Meth Kit with CTSC

[jwmelvin]

i expect lower off-boost temps with the Adnan's gaskets and lower volume of water needed. won't know until i'm able to test.

Regan, did you decide whether the insulating gaskets reduced your off-boost temps? Or whether they affected your water consumption?

Edit: it occurs to me that injecting after the blower may not leave enough time for the IAT sensor to see the reduced temperatures. Is this at all a concern? Does it depend on where the sensor is (factory versus add-on)? I think in my setup I will inject before the blower with water for cooling, not a mix for additional timing; trying to figure out the eventual setup.

Edit more: I see this talked about above. I had re read/reread the whole thread. So I guess the pros outweigh any cons.

 

[DDozier]

Regan, did you decide whether the insulating gaskets reduced your off-boost temps? Or whether they affected your water consumption?

Edit: it occurs to me that injecting after the blower may not leave enough time for the IAT sensor to see the reduced temperatures. Is this at all a concern? Does it depend on where the sensor is (factory versus add-on)? I think in my setup I will inject before the blower with water for cooling, not a mix for additional timing; trying to figure out the eventual setup.

After works so much better, but you have to build one of these and may loose your engine cover, may also need a new longer belt.

Dave

 

[jwmelvin]

That does look very nice Dave. It may be in my future. At this point, there are so many changes happening to my setup that I need to draw the line somewhere. Hopefully I can get an intact engine with an F/IC and new injectors, and more monitoring. I will add water spray if (when) the temps are high, and will consider your spray plate at that point.

Using the F/IC to clamp the AIT signal seems good. you suggested earlier that 150 F wold be the right min temp to send to the ECU, but that it would be best to not do do during cold start. I could use the dual-map function of the F/IC to do this, since the spray would only be for managing AIT. Is there a better way? I thought the ECU ran in open loop based on the ECT, so I'm not sure what significance the AIT has for cold start.

 

[RYU]

I have noticed some cooling of the blower housing itself but it still gets darn hot. The biggest benefit was being able to spray post blower. I'm using the smallest nozzle sold by coolingmist and I still need to turn down my pump speed. Essentially I'm using about half the amount of water to reach the same IATs as spraying pre blower. Its really nice because a 1 gal tank can finally last more than a full 25min track session. I use to have to pit after 15mins from using up all the water.

I can't speak to actual dispersion rates of the water and if its getting atomized as well post blower, probably not as well as per blower but I don't really care at this point. I'm finally done figuring out my cooling solution and I'm happy.

- - - Updated - - -

BTW... I think you should get Dave's plate and be done with it. However, I don't think you'll need two nozzles. My small nozzle already seems more than adequate and you don't want to turn down your pump too low. High pressure, low flow rate has the best atomization.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh.. I'm only on 7psi. I can also get you the part # of the gatorback belt I used. Its the only one that doesn't slip.

 

[jwmelvin]

I think you should get Dave's plate and be done with it.

I guess that means that you don't think much of the insulating effect as compared to spraying post blower. Thanks for the feedback. Dave's plate does look great.

 

[RYU]

After works so much better, but you have to build one of these and may loose your engine cover, may also need a new longer belt.

Dave

Dave, are you able to produce a 1 nozzle version of this? Which nozzles are you using? (you can PM me offline if you'd like)

 

[jwmelvin]

Dave, if my entire setup is coming apart and various parts will be going to a machine shop, would it make sense for me to put in injector ports somewhere in the Comptech manifold? That would avoid raising things and interfering with my targa brace. I haven't thought about how to make it easy to change the nozzles so I will have to give that some thought. Any ideas you have would be most appreciated. -Jason

 

[RYU]

Dave, if my entire setup is coming apart and various parts will be going to a machine shop, would it make sense for me to put in injector ports somewhere in the Comptech manifold? That would avoid raising things and interfering with my targa brace. I haven't thought about how to make it easy to change the nozzles so I will have to give that some thought. Any ideas you have would be most appreciated. -Jason

I"m not Dave but you really want the nozzle as near to the outlet of the SC. I can't imagine any location on the IM itself will yield good results, meaning equal water distribution to each of the cylinders. There is also very little space in there already so you run the risk of poor atomization. If I *had* to do an injection system in the manifold i'd have to look into a direct injection setup.

Just my $0.02

- - - Updated - - -

btw.. if you had to do it in my manifold you can install the injector on the bottom plane of the manifold pointing up. That's likely the best way to get the best possible equal delivery.

 

[jwmelvin]

Thanks Regan, I appreciate the thoughts. I will have to look at the assembly some more to see if any options jump out at me but I do agree with the concerns you point out.

 

[LMR]

Dave, if my entire setup is coming apart and various parts will be going to a machine shop, would it make sense for me to put in injector ports somewhere in the Comptech manifold? That would avoid raising things and interfering with my targa brace. I haven't thought about how to make it easy to change the nozzles so I will have to give that some thought. Any ideas you have would be most appreciated. -Jason

I"m not Dave but you really want the nozzle as near to the outlet of the SC. I can't imagine any location on the IM itself will yield good results, meaning equal water distribution to each of the cylinders. There is also very little space in there already so you run the risk of poor atomization. If I *had* to do an injection system in the manifold i'd have to look into a direct injection setup.

Just my $0.02

- - - Updated - - -

btw.. if you had to do it in my manifold you can install the injector on the bottom plane of the manifold pointing up. That's likely the best way to get the best possible equal delivery.

This is what I did ^^^^

 

[jwmelvin]

That looks quite good! Maybe on the pulley side wouldn't be bad either?

 

[LMR]

That looks quite good! Maybe on the pulley side wouldn't be bad either?

BTW I'm running nozzles before and after blower. Trying to get the best of both worlds.:wink:

 

[DDozier]

Dave, if my entire setup is coming apart and various parts will be going to a machine shop, would it make sense for me to put in injector ports somewhere in the Comptech manifold? That would avoid raising things and interfering with my targa brace. I haven't thought about how to make it easy to change the nozzles so I will have to give that some thought. Any ideas you have would be most appreciated. -Jason

Do you have the CTSC Intake with the removable top plate like LMR's or is it a welded top plate like the one in the pictures of my plate?

The Whipple base plate of the blower itself is very thick a nozzle could be added there with a competent machinist, but the nozzle would likely be inside the blower discharge and have to be screwed in for the inside. So servicing the nozzle would mean removal of the blower, but that is better then removal of the intake.

I am sure the placement will be effective there, but I hope you have at least two prefilters before that nozzle and a flow meter, I would hate to be the guy that has to clean the filter at the nozzle when it clogs, and they do clog. You should filter your meth when you refill your tank, always use distilled water, and add a filter before the pump (if you do not already have one) and another filter that is as close to the nozzle as possible and still be serviceable. Depending on what mix you spray they still have to be cleaned out from time to time and the only way you are going to know for sure is to monitor the flow of fluid.

Another concern about the bottom of the intake location is as the car starts to have blow by issues you will have oil pooling in the bottom of the intake from an over active PCV. That location should see the least possibilities for oil to pool but it could cause a clogging issue down the road. I am not saying I would not do this setup, and if it meant I could save my brace and engine cover I would give it a try, but I am also willing and able to do this type of work on my own car, if I was not I'm not sure I would let someone else that I had to pay every time there was an issue to resolve the problem do that particular location. The removal of the blower is one thing the removal of the blower and the intake is quite another. I will not do one for less than a grand to R&R the blower and intake.

Dave

 

[jwmelvin]

Do you have the CTSC Intake with the removable top plate like LMR's or is it a welded top plate like the one in the pictures of my plate?

The Whipple base plate of the blower itself is very thick a nozzle could be added there with a competent machinist, but the nozzle would likely be inside the blower discharge and have to be screwed in for the inside. So servicing the nozzle would mean removal of the blower, but that is better then removal of the intake.

I have the welded top plate like you. Does that change things though? I would have thought I could put a nozzle in the bottom pointing up just like LMR. I suggested the side because that would potentially allow access without removing things. Like if the nozzle screws in the inside of a larger plug that screws in the outside of the intake. But I can see Regan's point that such a setup wouldn't leave much room for evaporation and uniform mixing. That does bring to mind my similar concern about using that side-of-the-intake port for my AIT if I am spraying in the vicinity.

I will have to look at the pieces as they are apart and see what looks like it makes sense to me. I wasn't under the impression that the blower came off without the intake (because of the bypass pipe?). As you can tell, I don't have the most detailed practical knowledge of my setup.

 

[DDozier]

I have the welded top plate like you. Does that change things though? I would have thought I could put a nozzle in the bottom pointing up just like LMR. I suggested the side because that would potentially allow access without removing things. Like if the nozzle screws in the inside of a larger plug that screws in the outside of the intake. But I can see Regan's point that such a setup wouldn't leave much room for evaporation and uniform mixing. That does bring to mind my similar concern about using that side-of-the-intake port for my AIT if I am spraying in the vicinity.

I will have to look at the pieces as they are apart and see what looks like it makes sense to me. I wasn't under the impression that the blower came off without the intake (because of the bypass pipe?). As you can tell, I don't have the most detailed practical knowledge of my setup.

Blower comes off after the snout (part with the throttle body attached) is unbolted from the blower (4 nuts). Then the 4 large nuts holding the blower to the intake can be removed and the blower lifted off the intake. The only reason to remove the intake to do any service work on a CTSC is to deal with the bypass or bypass hose. You can remove the blower and ship it in for service without braking the fuel system loose. The blower comes out in about an hour. The intake takes about 4 more hours, In some cases if you know you are taking the blower and the intake out it comes out easier as an assembly but it is really heavy and will require two guys or an engine hoist to get them out together. Either way after leaning over the back end of an NSX you back will be hurting for sure.

Dave