Major Maintenance. Need help on what else to do.

[nimdivino]

Hello guys,
I got my NSX 11 months ago and its time for me to jack the car-up in stands for couple weekends to fix things here and there, adjust and maintain.

I have a list here that needs to be done. And I hope you guys don't mind going through it and maybe add things that I missed. For example, to adjust the valves, might as well replace the valve cover gaskets. Thank you in advance..

Maintenance List:

Valve Adjustment
Valve Cover Gasket

Spark Plugs
Alternator Drive Belt
A/C Compressor Belt

Timing Belt
Timing Belt Tensioner
Water Pump comes with W/P Gasket
Thermostat
Thermostat Rubber Mounting

Oil Pan gasket
Vtec Solenoid Gasket
Injector O-Rings
PCV Valve
Fuel Filter

Change Motor Oil
Change Tranny Oil
Change Rear Differential Oil

Coolant Flush
Brake Fluid Flush
Brake Pads
Brake Rotors
Brake Lines

Additionals:
Hoses 23 pieces
Cam Seals
Remove ABS - this is just for me.
Flush and Bleed ABS system - most folks
Crank Shaft Pulley --- ??? Apparently replace if tracking the car
Check and grease CV Boots


That's what I have so far.. And I know I am missing some stuff. Please add anything you can think off that may well be replaced or adjusted.

My friend mentions to replace all the seals, but I really don't know the name of it. Can someone enumerate all the seals I can replace outside of the engine?

I hope I'm making sense here. hahaha!

Thank you very much in advance for your time. I'm basically trying to gather every single part I need before I take on the task to save on shipping, possible bigger discount and time.

Speaking of savings, where would you recommend me to buy these OEM parts. I'm currently browsing here..
http://www.sonsacuraparts.com/sons/jsp/home.jsp

Thanks again guys for all the help

niM

 

[willabeest]

Hello guys,
I got my NSX 11 months ago and its time for me to jack the car-up in stands for couple weekends to fix things here and there, adjust and maintain.

I have a list here that needs to be done. And I hope you guys don't mind going through it and maybe add things that I missed. For example, to adjust the valves, might as well replace the valve cover gaskets. Thank you in advance..

Maintenance List:

Valve Adjustment
Valve Cover Gasket

Spark Plugs
Alternator Drive Belt
A/C Compressor Belt

Timing Belt
Timing Belt Tensioner
Water Pump comes with W/P Gasket
Thermostat
Thermostat Rubber Mounting

Oil Pan gasket
Vtec Solenoid Gasket
Injector O-Rings
PCV Valve
Fuel Filter

Motor Oil
Transmission Oil
Rear Differential Oil

That's what I have so far.. And I know I am missing some stuff. Please add anything you can think off that may well be replaced or adjusted.

My friend mentions to replace all the seals, but I really don't know the name of it. Can someone enumerate all the seals I can replace outside of the engine?

I hope I'm making sense here. hahaha!

Thank you very much in advance for your time. I'm basically trying to gather every single part I need before I take on the task to save on shipping, possible bigger discount and time.

Speaking of savings, where would you recommend me to buy these OEM parts. I'm currently browsing here..
http://www.sonsacuraparts.com/sons/jsp/home.jsp

Thanks again guys for all the help

niM

i have heard that the thermostat will never go bad so it does not need to be replaced.

 

[NSXBill2]

Hi, please post car year and milage and what you think has been done already. Also where you live for parts. I've bought stuff from Sean at Son's and he'll do you right, but local sales tax and actual shipping will kill ya. Tim or JR at RayLaks is excellent for parts also.

Trans and diff oil are one and the same.

Willabeest, nice avitar!

 

[RON98]

i have heard that the thermostat will never go bad so it does not need to be replaced.

not true :biggrin:

i see them go bad all the time. just had to change out the one on my personal 97. the rubber seal was almost completely gone and car never warmed up.

Its an easy job. if you want to knock out everything at once, go for it, but i dont see why you need to change it unless it starts acting up or you want to get it out of the way.

also i would recommend flushing the brakes and clutch.

if they are not flushed out about once every year, you could see problems in master and slave cylinder walls pitting and causing you to need new brake and clutch master and slave cylinders.

i been changing them out recently for some customers.

flush coolant also.. im sure you have it in your list.

take your time and dont rush the TB job esp if its your first time.

for the TB job, 2 tips are vital. Individual camshaft isolation and engine shifting makes night and day difference with both the quality and speed of the tb job.

happy motoring

Rob

 

[nimdivino]

Hi, please post car year and milage and what you think has been done already.

Ooops sorry, forgot to mention that..

I have a 91 with 155K miles. I don't have the reciepts right now, but last time I checked, tbelt and w/p has been replaced on 114K miles. As far as I know, that was the last time this car had service done. So I'm treating this car as if no one took good care of it.

Thanks for answering my post. Flush will be included but I'm going with the dealership with that. Price shouldn't be too bad. The brakes will be done as well, flush system, new cross-drilled rotors, pads and lines. I guess I'll update my list. hehe.

Please don't hesitate to add anything you can think of, even little things.

Thanks again

niM

 

[nimdivino]

Guys for coolant flush, I think its safe to say to replace the hoses as well. Would you replace the rest of the hoses? If so, how many hoses are there total and is their a part number for a kit?

Thank you

nim

 

[NSXBill2]

Ooops sorry, forgot to mention that..

I have a 91 with 155K miles. I don't have the reciepts right now, but last time I checked, tbelt and w/p has been replaced on 114K miles. As far as I know, that was the last time this car had service done. So I'm treating this car as if no one took good care of it.

Thanks for answering my post. Flush will be included but I'm going with the dealership with that. Price shouldn't be too bad. The brakes will be done as well, flush system, new cross-drilled rotors, pads and lines. I guess I'll update my list. hehe.

Please don't hesitate to add anything you can think of, even little things.

Thanks again

niM

I probably misunderstood.

So......you're going to take your car to the dealer to bleed and change your brakes, but you are doing your T-Belt/WP yourself

No offense intended, but most people would do that the other way around:smile:

 

[RON98]

Guys for coolant flush, I think its safe to say to replace the hoses as well. Would you replace the rest of the hoses? If so, how many hoses are there total and is their a part number for a kit?

Thank you

nim

hoses is a total different kettle of fish. i takes 1 hour to forever depending on if you want to "replace the hoses"... or REPLACE the hoses:smile:

look over the nsx manual, i think theres at least like 3732 of them? (some one fix my rough estimated number plz) to change them all, your looking at an all day job since some of them are tricky to get to esp the oil cooler ones and also the 3 large pipes under the car.

if you chose to replace the hoses,

you should do them all at the same time as the TB since the coolant will be dumped anyways.

your looking at at least 6 hours to get all of them that is if they come off smoothly.

 

[RON98]

I probably misunderstood.

So......you're going to take your car to the dealer to bleed and change your brakes, but you are doing your T-Belt/WP yourself

No offense intended, but most people would do that the other way around:smile:

good ? bill.

 

[nsxtasy]

You don't need to replace the brake pads unless the friction material is getting thin. You don't need to replace the rotors unless they are cracking or unless their thickness is at the minimum spec. Cross-drilled rotors don't improve performance.

You'll flush the coolant as part of the water pump replacement. Replacing all the cooling system hoses is a good idea. You can find a list of the part numbers for all 23 hoses in this topic. They don't come as a kit.

I also recommend replacing the crankshaft pulley, which can come apart, dig into and then through the timing belt cover, and cause your engine's timing to jump, turning it into a very large paperweight. Don't ask me how I know this.

 

[nimdivino]

I probably misunderstood.

So......you're going to take your car to the dealer to bleed and change your brakes, but you are doing your T-Belt/WP yourself

No offense intended, but most people would do that the other way around:smile:

None taken.... It was my fault not clarifying things. :smile:

I just checked the manual and it doesn't seem to be that hard so I may well just take a shot at it. I just didn't want to collect coolant in a big container. And Jiffy Lube has this coolant machine that flush and fills, so I thought Acura has the same thing but with a Honda coolant and none of that Preston crap. I guess I can also use the Preston flush kit from Kragen, but I really do not want to use tap water. Errrr, we'll see.

I will work on my own brakes, sorry I didn't type that clearly.

niM

 

[RON98]

I always use distilled water.

you can get it from walmart. :wink:

 

[nimdivino]

hoses is a total different kettle of fish. i takes 1 hour to forever depending on if you want to "replace the hoses"... or REPLACE the hoses:smile:

look over the nsx manual, i think theres at least like 3732 of them? (some one fix my rough estimated number plz) to change them all, your looking at an all day job since some of them are tricky to get to esp the oil cooler ones and also the 3 large pipes under the car.

if you chose to replace the hoses,

you should do them all at the same time as the TB since the coolant will be dumped anyways.

your looking at at least 6 hours to get all of them that is if they come off smoothly.

What I meant for the hoses are the major water/cooling hoses. I checked the manual (I really should've checked before I asked) and there are 6 of them. Dali has a kit for for $138, about $30 cheaper than sonsacura.com.

Yeah, I'm not too picky to be replacing all the hoses. In fact I'm not picky at all. :biggrin:


niM

 

[nimdivino]

I always use distilled water.

you can get it from walmart. :wink:

Yeah exactly, but for you to flush using that preston flush kit, don't you need running water from your garden hose to do it properly?

niM

 

[RON98]

Yeah exactly, but for you to flush using that preston flush kit, don't you need running water from your garden hose to do it properly?

niM

yes you need to run the hose water through it. when you fill it up, use distilled ofcouse. just drain the system after your done with the flush.

 

[nimdivino]

You don't need to replace the brake pads unless the friction material is getting thin. You don't need to replace the rotors unless they are cracking or unless their thickness is at the minimum spec. Cross-drilled rotors don't improve performance.

You'll flush the coolant as part of the water pump replacement. Replacing all the cooling system hoses is a good idea. You can find a list of the part numbers for all 23 hoses in this topic. They don't come as a kit.

I also recommend replacing the crankshaft pulley, which can come apart, dig into and then through the timing belt cover, and cause your engine's timing to jump, turning it into a very large paperweight. Don't ask me how I know this.

The whole brake maintenance is really a brake modification. I have the rotors already, just need the rest. I'll be getting a set of rims hence why I chose cross-drilled rotors, and I can't stand rusty rotors especially with wheels that have large spoke openings. Unfortunately I can't afford a BBK.

Thank you for the list of part numbers, I noticed that those prices are cheaper than sonsacura.com.

niM



niM

 

[Tom239]

My NSX's coolant has always been changed at 2 year intervals. Every time I've drained it, the coolant that comes out doesn't look much different than it did when it went in. That is, it's not full of crud.

So why flush? Me personally, I wouldn't want to put tap water in the system as I couldn't get every drop of it out. At least I wouldn't do it where I live, my tap water is well water with a fair amount of mineral content.

 

[NSXBill2]

I just did hoses in the last several weeks. Those hose prices were from 2003. They are MUCH more now. I think the 23 hoses add up to over $300. There are really only 22 part numbers as two of one part number is required. The overflow tube would take like 30 seconds to replace, but never sees coolant and doesn't require changing. I bought what I considered to be the 12 most important hoses to change and they still cost me over $200 from Son's, and that was a good price. Hoses I changed were two radiator, three under the car, three engine-to-firewall, two engine-to-bottle and two at the oil cooler. The 10 others inlcude several heater hoses in the front, few more oil cooler line ones and some really small ones in and out of the throttle body housing. The lower two oil cooler ones (most problematic, due to header heat) are impossible to change without removing the cooler, but not too bad if you do remove it.

 

[NSXBill2]

Coolant ---the new Honda coolant is pre-diluted. Its blue not green. You don't mix it with water. Buy 4 gallons if replacing all of it.

 

[nigel]

Just my opinion but if your going to all the trouble to change the hoses,(6) change them all,(23)!! Prestone isn't bad anti-freeze at all unless you live in Calif. Then everything is bad. Do use distilled, as the aluminun passages don't corrode as fast as with tap H2O. The hoses all age at the same rate and the ones at the coolant tank will go off. Just because some are hard to change, (pain in the a#*)!!! shouldn't stop you from doing so. Do it right the first time! You'll be glad you did, when Murphys Law rears its head, be certain it will be one of the hoses you didn't change that proves this law is as certain as one of Newtons!
Let there be no mistake thermostats do fail. While you have your car that apart, put in a $10 part and be sure it won't. They fail as well as the hoses in the coolant system.
Get your parts from JR at Ray Laks Acura, 1-888-RAY-LAKS. They sell a complete hose kit and have the best prices around, free shipping as well! They also sell injector o-rings. Larry Bastanza put together a t/b, w/p, cam cover, valve adjust, etc.. kit that has all the bits you'll need for the job that JR has as well. He's the man.
Drilled rotors have a tendency to crack with hard braking such as tracking the car. Slotted are the way to go. Don't get them from e-bay!! Get name brand. Install s/s lines if not already done. They're only $100 from SOS and are real nice.
Don't forget the door and window thingies. A must!! SOS again.
Get rid of the stock exhaust manifold. On the early NSX, it does rob a little power and they look like a V-6 Buick 3800.

Cheers
nigel

 

[Larry Bastanza]

i have heard that the thermostat will never go bad so it does not need to be replaced.

Not true at all, I have had to replace many of them.

 

[davidf]

I'd stick with Honda's new type II coolant. Service the trans. with the advanced MTF also.

 

[4AU4LIFE]

I have a 91 with 155K miles. I don't have the reciepts right now, but last time I checked, tbelt and w/p has been replaced on 114K miles. As far as I know, that was the last time this car had service done. So I'm treating this car as if no one took good care of it.
niM

The mileage doesn't indicate needing the t/b w/p service but it might depending on the time frame since it was done.

 

[goldNSX]

Hoses I changed were two radiator, three under the car, three engine-to-firewall, two engine-to-bottle and two at the oil cooler. The 10 others inlcude several heater hoses in the front, few more oil cooler line ones and some really small ones in and out of the throttle body housing. The lower two oil cooler ones (most problematic, due to header heat) are impossible to change without removing the cooler, but not too bad if you do remove it.

There has been a car on nsxcb.uk where the heater drain 'hose'/cap went south.

Also: make sure that you change the o-rings, 2 at the radiator, 1 at the engine and while you're there the 8-shaped-ring of the oil cooler. If the system looses pressure it's at these points. Mine had been so.

 

[drew]

Might as well change the cam seals and/or get new cam plugs. (can't tell if this was already suggested).

midas swell, you know.

Drew