Major Maintenance. Need help on what else to do.

Guys, thanks for all the comments in this thread.
I am definitely checking JR at Ray Laks Acura (Thanks Nigel). I will replace the 23 hoses and that's because it replaces the Oil Cooler lines as well. I'll be replacing the 4 cam seals as well (Thanks Drew)

goldNSX:
Do you know the name of these o-rings? Maybe you have part numbers?

Thanks again guys for all the help.

niM
 
nimdivino said:
goldNSX:
Do you know the name of these o-rings? Maybe you have part numbers?
Click to expand...

From my last order it must be:

91311-PR7-A00 O-RING (24.7X2.4) 1.35 1
19012-PV0-005 Radiator Plug O-rings 1.40 2
90471-580-000 WASHER (8MM) 1.08 2
90401-PE2-003 WASHER, SEALING (10MM) 1.50 2
 
I'd go ahead and change the foot pedals while you're at it. They can wear out, cause your foot to slip at a critical moment (or break under hard acceleration/deceleration), or simply get worn past their service life! Can never be too careful! lol :tongue:
 
nigel said:
Drilled rotors have a tendency to crack with hard braking such as tracking the car. Slotted are the way to go.
Click to expand...
Not in my experience. With hard braking such as tracking the car, ALL rotors crack - drilled, slotted, and solid-faced. I've used all of them on my heavily-tracked NSX. And no one kind lasted any longer before tracking than any other kind. The only difference in longevity I've found is that two-piece rotors last longer than one-piece rotors.
 
You really need to bleed and flush the ABS system too. After you do that, it needs to be exercised.

Check your motor mounts too. Look at them and check for cracks. You may have to remove them to get a good look. Typically it is the lower/forward engine mount that takes the load. You will have to remove the upper transmission mount(drivers side) and the top engine mount (passengers side) to do the timing belt service. Put them in a vise and put a long round screwdriver in the mount hole and torque the mount to see if there are any cracks in the rubber. Don't be surprised if you have one or two that are broken.

Look at the CV axle boots for cracks and grease leakage.

Get a crankshaft pulley holder tool orderd NOW or you are not going to get very far on the timing belt job.

Purchase a OEM Acura maintenance manual or at least print off the pages that will cover the services you are doing and read them a couple times before you start the project.

If the V-TEC solenoids are not leaking LEAVE THEM ALONE. Just do what you need to do. You don't realize what all of what you want to do is going to cost, or maybe you don't care. This NSX stuff adds up REAL FAST, even if you do it yourself.

Brad
 
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If your expansion tank is old you might want to replace it with the two hoses and cap.

If your tracking the car I would recommend the Harmonic Balancer along with the tensior and belts.
 
OLDMNSX said:
...Just do what you need to do. You don't realize what all of what you want to do is going to cost, or maybe you don't care. This NSX stuff adds up REAL FAST, even if you do it yourself.

Brad
Click to expand...

Yeah, almost $1000 for T-Belt/WP parts including tensioner, new crank pulley, and 12 hoses. These are discount prices from Ray Laks. Also in that price is one cheap ($20) crank holder tool and the Honda valve adjust tool ($13). :tongue:

Adds up quickly
 
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Just to clarify - the "harmonic balancer" that people are mentioning is the same part I referred to as the "crankshaft pulley".
 
nsxtasy said:
Just to clarify - the "harmonic balancer" that people are mentioning is the same part I referred to as the "crankshaft pulley".
Click to expand...

Yeah, I called it that and Larry didn't know WTF I was talking about. Then someone called me "old school!":rolleyes: I guess that us guys that used to work on Chevys call the thing a harmonic balancer.
 
NSXBill2 said:
Yeah, I called it that and Larry didn't know WTF I was talking about. Then someone called me "old school!":rolleyes: I guess that us guys that used to work on Chevys call the thing a harmonic balancer.
Click to expand...

Mercedes and most German companies have/use this term as well :)
 
NSXBill2 said:
Yeah, I called it that and Larry didn't know WTF I was talking about. Then someone called me "old school!":rolleyes: I guess that us guys that used to work on Chevys call the thing a harmonic balancer.
Click to expand...
:biggrin:

wow this thread is really growing fast. it has now become the, replace everything on your car thread. just buy a motor from honda :D
 
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NSXBill2 said:
Yeah, I called it that and Larry didn't know WTF I was talking about. Then someone called me "old school!":rolleyes: I guess that us guys that used to work on Chevys call the thing a harmonic balancer.
Click to expand...
Well, that is its purpose. And that directly relates to why it fails. The crankshaft pulley is a metal pulley with a huge hunk of rubber on the inside, like a big hockey puck. Its purpose is to smooth out any vibrations on the crankshaft. When it fails (due to some combination of age and stress), the rubber "puck" separates from the surrounding metal, and starts digging into, and eventually through, the timing belt cover.
 
nsxtasy said:
Well, that is its purpose. And that directly relates to why it fails. The crankshaft pulley is a metal pulley with a huge hunk of rubber on the inside, like a big hockey puck. Its purpose is to smooth out any vibrations on the crankshaft. When it fails (due to some combination of age and stress), the rubber "puck" separates from the surrounding metal, and starts digging into, and eventually through, the timing belt cover.
Click to expand...

happens with supras too. they come right out the front and eat up the fan assembly. :tongue:
 
I'm gonna slightly jack this thread, but since ya'll mentioned harmonic balancer is there any special tool I need to purchase for replacing the HB. I know, I know "search".:biggrin:
 
davidf said:
I'm gonna slightly jack this thread, but since ya'll mentioned harmonic balancer is there any special tool I need to purchase for replacing the HB. I know, I know "search".:biggrin:
Click to expand...

Crank Pulley Holder (usually 45mm unless you have auto or VERY early '91, then you need 50mm holder). I got mine on Amazon for $20. Also need 1/2 breaker bar to go on the holder. Also need 19mm six point socket, 14"+ of at least 1/2" extensions and a very large breaker bar. Buy a 3/4" one and some pipe! :smile: Need jack stand to rest breaker bar on. Search Timing Belt DIY on google and you'll get Gary's DIY on Prime.

HTH,
Bill
 
I did all my coolant hoses last summer. Because I hadn't done much wrenching in a while, and knew it was tough, somehow I found a way to enjoy the project.

That being said, it is a lot of work and the hoses that came off looked perfect to me. I can see that analysis of which ones really need to be replaced makes some sense. The problem with that is - I think that they are all under pressure, except the ones that go to the heater core when the CCU is not needing heat. That means that if any one of them fail, the system will lose pressure and drain coolant - and result it you being stranded.

Perhaps someone knows better which hoses can fail without stranding the vehicle. (Yes, the coolant overflow hose is an example.)

I do know that when one of the big coolant hoses fails, its is a serious event. We lost a good chunk of track time at NSXPO #3 at Laguna Seca when one of mine let go. I'm hoping to not get stranded like that again, so that's why I replaced all of mine just to be safe.

But, I am not sure I've read of any other coolant hoses failing (other then one of the big 3 that go from firewall to engine.) Have there been any other coolant hose failures? If not, maybe in another 100k I'll only replace those three.
 
l8apex32 said:
But, I am not sure I've read of any other coolant hoses failing (other then one of the big 3 that go from firewall to engine.) Have there been any other coolant hose failures? If not, maybe in another 100k I'll only replace those three.
Click to expand...

It's not a good idea to change only the main hoses b/c of the following empirical data and these are only the ones I recall:

-oil cooler hose on nsxprime
-radiator hose in my country
-heater bleeding cap on nsxcb.uk -> interesting, no?

The heater hoses are not under strong pressure, that's true but a failure let you stranded out of nowhere too and these are the most cheapest ones of all.
 
Wow, yeah this thread is becoming long. Maybe it is easier to buy a new engine. hahaha.

Thanks guys for adding more stuff to do and check. I've added it to my first post so some people can use it as a guide.

OLDMNSX:
Good thinking about the ABS flush and bleed. However I am going to remove my ABS completely. I never like how it feels, maybe my ABS is broken or something but either way I like the old school. But I added the task in my list anyway for other people.

List is getting bigger, not quite sure how much these parts going to cost me.. yikes.. hahaha.

Thanks again guys.

niM
 
Hey guys,
I'm having trouble finding some of the part numbers. Can you help me out?

Fuel Filter
Fuel Filter Hose
PCV Valve

Thank you

niM
 
I agree with Larry on the thermostat failing - its the only part failure I've had on my '96, now approaching 50K mi. On my other cars that have gone as high as 180,000 miles, I've never had a thermostat fail.

I just don't like that extra rubber seal in the Honda design - mine "mushroomed" and held the thermostat open so it took 10 miles for the car to warm up. So, I bought one from NAPA (just brass on brass, no rubber seal on the moving part) instead of Acura and it has been fine.

Frank
96 NSX-T, red/tan

PS - did my timing belt 10 months ago. Simply followed Gary Kentosh's article to the letter, then donated my belt to Larry B's "TB Museum".
 

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