Lug Bolt Appears to be spinning!!

[nsxtasy]

I'd recommend picking up a set of aftermarket "extended" studs for replacement. These tend to have a larger and more aggressive knurl to bite into your hub, assuming that the stock studs have stripped out the hub. I traditionally use a stack of hardened washers bathed in bearing grease and hit it with impact. Easy to do with air.

There are several issues you'll need to consider before getting extended studs (which are just like they sound, the stick out further from the wheel than the stock studs). One, the looks; many people don't like the looks of studs protruding from their wheels. Two, you will need to buy open-ended lug nuts to go with the extended studs, to hold the wheels down. (If you are using Honda/Acura wheels, they have a ball-shaped seating area and you'll need to get lug nuts which also have a ball-shaped seating area. Honda actually makes open-ended lug nuts with a ball-shaped seating area which you can order at your local Honda or Acura car dealer; ask for part number 90381-SV1-901.) Three, if you don't already have a set of deep sockets, you'll probably need to get one, or at least a 19 mm deep socket, to use on the lug nuts.

Or, stick with the stock lug nuts. I've never had any problems with them. But I use a torque wrench on my lug nuts, and the mechanics I use know enough not to overtorque (or undertorque) them.

 

[N-Wing]

The NSX decided to cooperate a bit today. ...must have read this thread.

For the two lugs that wouldn't come off I continued to turn them (loosening). After about one full turn the first one broke off. The second did the same. I am guessing this is good news suggesting the studs where actually not spinning. So the wheels are off an will go out for refinishing.

After reading though this and reading up some more on changing the studs myself, I am going to have a go at it. I am going with the process which does not require the hub to come off. should be interesting. Going to pull the calipers off now and may even pick up an impact driver to get the rotor alignment/holder/whatever screws off. I thought I had one but apparently not. I am ordering the OEM parts today. I will probably change all 5 but maybe just the two. Worst case I need to do this again. I am documenting the process in detail (I try to do that whenever I struggle with a process). I will post that upon completion.

 

[N-Wing]

All came apart pretty well. Broken studs are out. I am following this post for the non-hub removal method (below). I have detailed photos of the process which I will write up in PowerPoint. Once I get the new studs I can finish the job. I was a bit uncomfortable shaving metal off the hub casting but it saves a lot of time and is less likely to mess up the alignment (as I understand it).

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/33137-Rear-Wheel-Stud-Removal-Hub-Removal/page2

 

[ATERPAK]

As Brian has stated that longer studs from ARP would be a plus if you are using wheel spacers. If not then stick with the stock lug nuts. OEM lug nuts are fine and of good quality. You can easily change lug nuts on the front hub using a hammer and a 1/2" drive ratchet and 19mm socket. I would recommend you also buy at least two or maybe four Acura Legend lug nuts as well. These nuts are chrome plated and work on the NSX. The hole goes all the way through the lug nut and it's a great for use with extended studs used on race or track cars which are still using the OEM rims. Remember that Acura rims use a rounded mating surface on the lug nut to the rim not conical like most aftermarket rims do. Now the reason for the two extra Legend lug nuts is that after hitting out the old damaged lug stud from the hub, you can then pull the new one into the old hole and then with a short spacer and a washer you can then pull the new stud through using the new Legend lug nut slowly using the ratchet drive and 19mm socket. Eventually it will cause the stud to bottom out against the back of the hub flange. Seat it tight and that's it. You can also press it in after taking things apart but it's not necessary at all. Now if it's the rear wheel studs, then you will have to grind down, very slightly, one edge of the hub flange near the bearing area between the hub bolts to the knuckle area to allow the stud to just clear it and then placed into the lug hole. I mean just slightly here people. Once your done, spray the ground down area with some clear to keep rust from forming and your done. I've done this on my car over 15 years ago and the extended studs around 10 years ago with no problems and plenty of track time. I also have two rear hubs with less than 5K miles on them which I've kept as spares if someone wants to buy them. There is nothing fancy about the process here and no real special tools are needed to do this repair. And for $%&@# sakes the car doesn't need to be realigned. I mean did you bend something or hit a curb? All the parts are machined for perfect alignment when changed if they are installed correctly so why should the alignment change. Good luck.

Al

 

[N-Wing]

Thanks for the added comments. I didn't think about shooting some clear on the grounded hub but will do that. I also will take a look for a legend lugs nut, I was going to search for a bolt at the hardware store but that will do fine. I am going all OEM. Parts are in route.

Dropped off the wheels yesterday for refinishing. Going with slightly darker than stock gun metal grey. The guy sounds like a real wheel guy so we will see how it comes out. It's costing about $125 per wheel which I didn't think was too bad. This includes dismount and remount of the wheels and straightening if necessary.

 

[nsxtasy]

I would recommend you also buy at least two or maybe four Acura Legend lug nuts as well. These nuts are chrome plated and work on the NSX. The hole goes all the way through the lug nut

Those are what are called "open-ended lug nuts". As I mentioned above, you can buy them at any Acura or Honda car dealer. Don't ask for "Legend lug nuts" since they were only used on certain models and years! Just ask for them by part number (see below). You might want to phone ahead in case they don't have them in stock and need to order them for you.

you will need to buy open-ended lug nuts to go with the extended studs, to hold the wheels down. (If you are using Honda/Acura wheels, they have a ball-shaped seating area and you'll need to get lug nuts which also have a ball-shaped seating area. Honda actually makes open-ended lug nuts with a ball-shaped seating area which you can order at your local Honda or Acura car dealer; ask for part number 90381-SV1-901.)

 

[N-Wing]

Thanks. That PN helped. I have two on the way. My wheels are already done. 24 turnaround! Can't wait to see them...

 

[Ko-nsx]

Not sure if the problem studs were on the back or front. I replaced my oemstuds with ARP studs on the rear and it was not bad, got some from alas-nsx. We did have to do some grinding because i didn't want to replace the hub. i hear the fronts are really easy to replace. I got longer arp studs to go with the 15mm spacers we put on the rear.

 

[RJD1022]

Where did you bring the wheels? Let me know what you think.

 

[N-Wing]

The company is KwickSilver of Longmeadow mass (Email: [email protected]). The wheels are perfect and the color is just what I wanted, slightly darker than the stock gunmetal color. I will post a better pic later but here is one from the trunk.

I do wish one thing, I meant to tell them I didn't not want glossy. That is my fault though. They did as asked which was powder coat the wheels the color I requested (with clear coat). At least it will be easier to clean this way... No complaints.



image by michael_lohr, on Flickr

Waiting on my lugs now...

 

[N-Wing]

To avoid the flames in advance...

I know many purist would be appalled at my tire choices. I will evaluate my new budget rear tires once I drive some. They are Handkook Ventus v12's or something, which are in the 280 wear rating category and sub par to stock. Perhaps I will regret it but that was my choice.

I have seen some rough posts on the topic... I was almost afraid to post the pic!

 

[nsxtasy]

I know many purist would be appalled at my tire choices. I will evaluate my new budget rear tires once I drive some. They are Handkook Ventus v12's or something, which are in the 280 wear rating category and sub par to stock. Perhaps I will regret it but that was my choice.

The Hankook Ventus V12 evo K110 is actually a pretty good tire. It's in the "maximum performance summer tire" category. Not everyone wants to live with the faster tire wear in the "extreme performance" category, and most of the tires in the maximum performance category are still very good.

 

[N-Wing]

It's good to know the Hankooks have some acceptable feedback. Can't wait to try them. Had the stocks before but they where bald going into the winter.

It was a bit dark but this is the lot of them. Just slightly darker than the stock grey I think. Will look better with some real lighting.


image by michael_lohr, on Flickr

Against the red: Speaking of red, I still miss the red that was on my 1992. Not sure why they switched. Fortunately for me a local prime member purchased my 92. When our cars are next to each other, the red on his car is unquestionably deeper and his has nearly 100k more miles. Crazy. (I do however love the lower first gear, removable top and low speed power steering, can't complain overall).


Untitled by michael_lohr, on Flickr

Expecting the studs and lugs will arrive maybe tomorrow.

 

[RJD1022]

The wheels look great. I can't wait to see them in person.

 

[OLDMNSX]

I would recommend that you apply a coat of anti-seize to your lug bolts before reinstalling the wheels. Brush it on, wipe off the excess with your finger. If the previous owner would have done this you would not have had to do this work. TQ to 80 FT/LB.

 

[N-Wing]

I got my studs and new lugs. The buzzing down 1/4 of the bolt head worked perfectly. Studs are now in. Those lugs must be really soft. When seating the studs with the through bolt part NSXasty suggested it took a bit to get them seated (nothing crazy but enough). When taking the "tool" lugs/bolts back out, they were not smooth so I believe that they slightly deformed. Glad I bought two so I didn't have to re-use the same one. I wouldn't want to get into further trouble. In any case it is all seated and looks good.

Soooooo, I sprayed some undercoat paint over where I had shaved the knuckle down some (still documenting as promised). While that was drying I figured I would put the new wheels on the others areas. Then I ran into this...

After all my praise of the wheel guys I realized two things.
1. They powder coated the mounting face.
2. They powder coated the hub mating surface.
Does that make any sense??? Obviously I cannot get the wheel on over the center hub. I think I need to buzz the center hub area down. Agreed? Do you think there will be an issue with the mounting face?


Untitled by michael_lohr, on Flickr

 

[N-Wing]

The coating is chipped a bit only because I took a shot putting that wheel on. That confirmed it would not fit.

 

[N-Wing]

So I buzzed the inner mating face for the hub. I didn't remove the coating on the full mating surface. It seemed to work. It was dry out so I warmed the car up good and took it on the highway for a few exits. Spooled it up to a 'respectable speed' and now shakes or anything. Re-torqued when I got home so I think I'm good.

I put the center caps on (which I didn't as the best way to get them back off is remove the wheel again). Maybe I'll find a suction cup that will do the trick. I think they need to be painted to match although they don't look too horrific.

Thanks all who helped with advice. In the end it went rather smoothly. I will finalize the documentation and then post it.

Here are the results.

No Center Caps

NSX-Wheels(2013-01-13)1 by michael_lohr, on Flickr

With the center caps that were with the OEM color.

NSX-Wheels2(2013-01-13) by michael_lohr, on Flickr

 

[RJD1022]

Looks great. It is coming together nicely!

 

[N-Wing]

I completed the documentation as promised. I don't have a way to upload PowerPoint or PDF. I was able to turn the PP into a movie and post through flickr. PM me if you need the doc or can post it. This should do for now. I will post another thread with just this doc and a good header to make it easy to search.


[flash=http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=109786]width="400" height="300" flashvars="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=874af9e74d&photo_id=8395749179" bgcolor="#000000" allowFullScreen="true"[/flash]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/58042737@N05/8395749179/

Here is the post where I put the documentation with a good title and tags.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...ut-Hub-Removal-Process)?p=1666272#post1666272

 

[ATERPAK]

I've only got a few minor comments. First good job doing them on the car. When mine broke, the dealer replaced the hub assembly completely because he said it wouldn't be safe to do it any other way. I was a newbie to the NSX then and so I got taken for some big bucks on that. Once off I basically did the same thing you did with replacing the studs and relieving some area on the hub surface. Since you had the rotors off, that would have been a good time to get rid of the splash guards. If I remember correctly you'll have to cut them in half to get them completely off. No big deal. Also on the painting of your rims, I also had mine redone and I found over time that the mating surface which should be completely flat will eventually start to break down and have to be scraped flat and clean. Didn't seem to bother anything until I took them off recently to redo the brakes and noticed the deterioration of the paint in uneven patches. Nice job and continue to have fun with the car. Looks real clean.

Al

 

[N-Wing]

Thanks for the notes. I did have to cut the splash guard but why would you remove it? I will keep the mating face comments in mind. If it starts breaking down I will be sure to remove it.

 

[nsxnut]

It take only a few extra min to remove the hub from the car. Once removed you can place them on a bench and hammer them out or use a press.
Hammering them out when on the car will stress the bearings. Re-installing is also much easier when the hubs are removed..
You don't have to grind the studs when you remove the hub from the car.

Later,
Don

 

[N-Wing]

I hear that perspective. My primary concern is with damaging something and possibly affecting alignment (alignment probably less of a concern). I agree that would avoid the dremel work which is more optimal. That said, I am more comfortable with not removing the hub (personally).

 

[nsxnut]

Removing the hub doesn't effect the alignment.
It is really easy to remove the hub. Easier than I thought it would be.