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KW V-3's

After about 200 miles, I went for an alignment. They have aligned this car several times over the years.

It's always been stock before.
Being new to tweaking suspensions, I asked for OEM specs.

With the K&W V3 install, the car dropped 1 inch in the front [Now measures 12.5 fender to hub] and dropped 1.25 inches on the rear [Now 13.25 fender to hub]. OEM calls for Front Camber -.3 to -.5 and Rear to be – 1.5 [Front and rear toe are in spec.].
<O:p
This is the closest they could get [ caster too]– [ camber was more negative before alignment, they dialed it back ]
From reading Prime, I see these numbers are leaning towards aggressive for track settings.
<O:p
You all ok with these numbers? Coz?
Running Dunlap Dirrenza<O:p</O:p

I’ll be tracking. I have 9 days in the seat and might get to 20 this year.

Thanks

<O:p</O:p
Front Camber<O:p</O:p
Left -0.9 Right – 1.0<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
Front Caster<O:p</O:p
Left 8.5 Right 8.9<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
Front Toe<O:p</O:p
Left -.06 Right -.06

Total Front Toe - 0.13 ---- Steer ahead 0.00

<O:p</O:p
Front Thrust .24<O:p</O:p<O:p</O:p

Rear Camber<O:p</O:p

Left -2.6 Right -2.4<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
Rear Toe<O:p</O:p
Left .07 Right .08

Total Rear Toe 0.15

<O:p</O:p
Rear Thrust -.01


acura chart.jpg
 
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First off, I personally think you need more front negative camber. Although you may not be able to get more without installing the CT Engineering front camber bushing.
Since I run a widebody, my set up is totally different than yours is.
My car has to sit higher because of the tire sizes and width.
It's been so long since I've run OEM size tires and set up, I'm not really sure what advise to give you.
I'm sure there are others that would be able to give you better advise on this.

I run 275x35x18 and 315x30x18's and here are my alignment spec's I use.

Front: In Degrees
Camber: -2.7 both sides
Caster: 7.9 & 7.9
Toe: - 1.7 & 1.7 Total Toe: - 3.4
Cross Camber: 0.0
Cross Caster: - 0.1

Rear: In Degrees
Camber: - 2.2 Both sides
Toe: 1.9 & 1.9 Total Tow 3.8
Cross Camber: - 0.1
Thrust Angle: 0.00
 
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for the track maxing out your front camber is helpful esp with r comps.....that said your car is still a road car and as long as you have a little toe out up front and toe in at the back (which you do) you are ok.The only thing i would check is your rake as long as you lowered the car to maintain the slight front down attitude then you are good.
 
Thanks, now I know what Rake is.

So, if the rear measured 14.5 hub center to fender lip and the front was 13.5 [ a difference of 1 ]
--- and now they measure rear: 13.25 and front:12.5 [ a difference of .75 ] my rake [relative to each other] went from 1 inch to 3/4 of an inch. ---


Thanks
 
Depending on how your car was corner balanced and the height of each shock, you are not getting a correct rake reading from center hub to fender lip.
Rake is measured from the ground up to a point on the front and rear of the chassis.
Per the manual, the front is measure from the center of the lower control arm bolt to the ground. The rear is measured from the tow control arm bolt to the ground.
Page 18-6 in the manual.

I just use the front and rear jack points and run 1/8" rake :)
 
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