Keyless woes
- Thread starter ChopsJazz
- Start date
I think that goo is from one of the big capacitors.
Check if BrianK can replace gooey capacitors & refurbuish the unit. He's well known for doing other NSX electronics.
The goo was put on when the unit was made to stabilize the big capacitors. I have not done any work on the keyless units but you did check the inline fuse?
Thanks Brian, that's good to know. Mike (Chromatose) and I ran some continuity tests and it seemed to fall into spec in some areas and out of spec in others.
definitely wish we had a keyless pro. I've also got an oem keyless and it doesn't work but my remote blinks still 
definitely wish we had a keyless pro. I've also got an oem keyless and it doesn't work but my remote blinks still
Brian, wanna take this on?
I am always up for a chalange but I need to have time to sleep. :wink:
I wish there was a way to test just the box or the remote. Because I've been wondering for years if the problem is my keyless box or if it's the remote. Remote blinks nothing happens. Even tried the Danoland trick on hit or miss programming a remote.
I'm another that needs keyless system that works right.
My remote locks and unlocks doors but the LED next to the lock knob doesn't blink and I can't set off the alarm even if I try.
I've taken the door panel off and verified the LED is plugged in but still no luck.:frown:
My remote locks and unlocks doors but the LED next to the lock knob doesn't blink and I can't set off the alarm even if I try.
I've taken the door panel off and verified the LED is plugged in but still no luck.:frown:
Your keyless entry is working fine, you have a issue with the securty system, most likely one of the inputs to it are not right. trunk swich, hatch switch, hood switch would be the first to confirm proper operation.
My keyless works 90% of the time but it has on occasion not worked until after a few trys.
BTW how does one test the security part of it?
BTW how does one test the security part of it?
My keyless works 90% of the time but it has on occasion not worked until after a few trys.
The keyless entry is just that, it just locks and unlocks the door it is not part of the security system. If you lock and close the door and the security light on the drivers dor starts blinking the system is armed. It you want to confirm that, open the window, lock and close the door and then pull up the lock on the top of the door and the alarm should go off.
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:smile:
The trunk and hatch light are on on the dash when they are open so I feel like they are working correctly. However, the hood latch doesn't have a light on dash so I can't confirm it is working properly. Is there a way to test it?
I guess I could look in my service manual and see if there is.
How about this one. Anyone have "range issues" with the remote? I literally have to hold the remote right up next to the door to get it to unlock. And yeah, the battery is new.
can i just replace the oem keyless with a simple aftermarket keyless by just tapping into the wires where the oem one was? Or will I have to hunt and splice else where also to get all the wires?
There aren't many wires to track down for keyless entry. Which module were you looking at buying?
- Joined
- 13 October 2007
- Messages
- 180
Great tip, Brian.
About a month ago, the keyless function on my 1998 NSX stopped working. I could lock the door(s) once with my keyless remote, but couldn't then unlock the door(s) with the keyless remote; I had to manually use the key to unlock a door.
Moreover, after locking the door with the keyless remote, the light on the driver's side door (that blinks when the alarm is activated) wasn't blinking.
In searching a solution on Prime, I came across a number of potential solutions - the bad fuse solution; the broken keyless remote solution; etc.
The solution, however, was simple: the rear hatch glass latch had somehow been slightly knocked out of place, and as a result wasn't closed correctly enough to activate the alarm.
So first and foremost, in the event your alarm suddenly stops working, ensure that your rear hatch, trunk, hood; etc., - when closed - is closed to the extent that they are activating the alarm connections. Over time, something may get slightly knocked out of place, and when this happens - no more alarm.
It's an easy solution, and not one I had thought of until Steve Gooding took about ten minutes (or less) to figure it out...
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So first and foremost, in the event your alarm suddenly stops working, ensure that your rear hatch, trunk, hood; etc., - when closed - is closed to the extent that they are activating the alarm connections. Over time, something may get slightly knocked out of place, and when this happens - no more alarm.
It's an easy solution, and not one I had thought of until Steve Gooding took about ten minutes (or less) to figure it out...
I'll check it out. Thanks for the tip.
