Keep getting lowballed. How much are these cars worth?

No the lip is sticking out like 3 millimeters on one small corner. Nobdoy actually notices until I show them.

Also, the reason why I wanted to sell it is because I don't have a garage for it. I live in PB next to bars and anything can happen to it especially with everybody I know asking if they can drive it to work or to a friends house. So now I'm the bad guy for saying no.

I will probably just cut my sister a check and have her take it to Acura. Then put a car cover over it with the words "Miata" stiched on it.

How much to trade up to a T you think?

RickySals what car is that in your sig?
 
NSSEX91 said:
Also, the reason why I wanted to sell it is because I don't have a garage for it. I live in PB next to bars and anything can happen to it

Isn't PB great? I've known more than one person park on the sidestreets there without their top/T on and have been greeted by vomit in the seat...
 
Cairo94507 said:
I have had a ton of low-ball callers just asking if I would take $40K? It is hard not to just hang up on them but I take the time to explain this is not a salvaged, wrecked, raced, heavily ricer (no offense) modified car. I also tell them I own it and am not in a financial bind to sell it.

So.....sooner or later that one buyer who wants that one right car will come along, recognize what they are looking at and gladly pay to own it

Flip the coin from a buyers perspective.

I have looked at a ton of high to market priced cars. It is hard not to just hang up on them, but I take the time to explain this is not a car that sells quickly and easily. I try to find out if they are in a financial bind and need to sell it fast.

So.....sooner or later that one seller who is between a rock and a hard place will come along, recognize that they need to get rid of the car now and gladly sell it at a deal where I can drive it for a while and not lose much money to depreciation.

Then there are those sellers that refuse to take anything less than what they think the car is worth and hold on to the car while the value falls and end up finally selling the car at a reduced price because of the depreciation that has occured between the time they first listed the car and then just gave in and sold the car. On the right day you might just get this person in the right mood to sell at a good deal to the buyer. I do this all the time with real-estate. Property sits on the market forever and I usually do end up getting the property in the end but almost always the price I pay is way below the very first offer I made. The first offer yo get is usually the best one.
 
jond said:
I imagine you could make a healthy living low balling people on high-end cars and reselling them at a profit. $10-15k is a lot of money.

And even a better living doing it with real-estate. All that needs to be done is to put out lots of offers and hope one sticks. I do it all the time and I really don't care who it pisses off. It's business, I am trying to make a profit not make friends.
 
Take a que from business negotiations. If you are negotiating with someone that is informed (not just a random kid, in your case) but really wants to nickle and dime -- don't let them up front.

Price the car at its TRUE fair market value. You should know what that is within $1k or so. Explain, up front, in your ad EXACTLY how you arrived at that figure. For example, say $30k represents mint condition, less: X, Y, Z for a final price of ___.

Then, finish your ad by stating something to the effect of "This is a final price, based on my knowledge of NSX market values. I will not negotiate, but can assure you that the car is as represented. Take it or leave it."

You will only get serious buyers if up front about price and value, and if you are honest about your firm price and value, it should sell to one of the next few interested parties.
 
Its all about condition. + winter is a bad time to sell.
I have seen 91's go for as much as $42,000.00 and as little as 22,000.00
in the past year. Be careful if you drop your car off at Acura for all its repairs.
It might surprise you, making it harder to recover your $$$.
 
So are you mailing letters to these distressed Home Owners or giving them calls? Do you look in foreclosure websites or MLS's, newspaper and the local police station?

I have one house already at Market Value but trying to get at least 10% equity in the Austin Texas area. It's harder when houses are only FS for about a week or two in a sellers market.
 
Hang in there. A car is worth what someone is willing to pay. If you hold on long enough, someone will pay your price. And you will be doing a service to the rest of us. :biggrin:
 
I had inspection done for this car at GreenLight Honda. Rear bumper and whole left side was painted in addition to worn out clutch and different cosmetic imperfections. Motor seem to be strong and body straight.

Carfax clean right now, but this is recent accident and most likely will show up on report soon.

Car should be strong runner for DIY person and right price... After some hours of TLC :) My math showed me that paying for services doesn't worth it, because it will bump price to the level where I can get car with all records and even original body.
 
Having bought and sold many cars, I've found they are only worth what someone is willing to pay for them. You can ask more and wait for the right buyer to come along or you can ask less and sell it quicker. Depends on the market, what the majority is paying for like and kind quality and how fast you need to turn it.

One thing for sure, you can put lots of money into your car, upgrades, repairs, etc and never see most of it back when you sell it.

As cars get up in age, financing options get less and less unless you have other collateral to pledge against the loan. So cash is now a major part of the deal which makes it harder again to sell.

Most cars are a losing investment.

As for test drives when I'm selling off one of my cars, I drive, they ride until they have put the money in my hand for the car. Then they can drive it all they want. But if they break it or crash it, I fix it with their money if they don't buy it. I've had my fill of idiots that are just Dan Gurney wanta be's that just want a chance to drive such cars and couldn't afford the insurance to begin with let alone the car itself.
 
NSSEX91, whatever price you are asking for is worth every penny because you know the exact condition of the car and what it's worth. I posted my car for $37k and got 5 people wanting to buy it without any lowballin. I did get a few kids calling trying to low ball, but I hung up and ignored it. KBB says my car is worth $28-32k, but I know my car and when i said "mint" it mean "mint" no fluff no BS. So stick with your price...if you gonna sell for under $20k, might as well just keep it. Decent condition NSX are getting harder and harder to come by.
 
NSSEX91, whatever price you are asking for is worth every penny because you know the exact condition of the car and what it's worth. I posted my car for $37k and got 5 people wanting to buy it without any lowballin. I did get a few kids calling trying to low ball, but I hung up and ignored it. KBB says my car is worth $28-32k, but I know my car and when i said "mint" it mean "mint" no fluff no BS. So stick with your price...if you gonna sell for under $20k, might as well just keep it. Decent condition NSX are getting harder and harder to come by.

You sold your car???
 
...I offered another guy 23,000 but wanted to go 21k because of the missing front plastic clip ($45)...

If you are referring to the black plastic front chin spolier those cost about $140 - $150 new from the dealer. I even had one dealer quote me $165 for one. Just FYI so you have proper information when negotiating.

By the way...your car looks nice from the ad. Good luck with your sale.
 
I'm not going to just reiterate everything already mentioned but I've got a couple tips from my perspective since you asked.

Coming from someone who has sold used cars on the side from Honda Accords to Lexus LS's for many years.. it's basically up to you what people you want to contact you.

If you want low baller's, you focus on the mods, how fast you can go in it, perhaps an emergency situation requiring you to sell it, and no justification for your price. Here's an example that just screams 'come rip me off I need to sell NOW and I'm probably hiding things so I'll even come down more, wholesalers and low ballers HIT ME UP NOW'. Text in brackets are what most people think when they read it->
***
i.e.-green NSX with awesome 19's [that's the best part?], [some overpriced] intake/exhaust, goes 150+mph and is steady as a rock [because I did it yesterday], new clutch [because I probably burnt it driving it aggressively], new "racing" seats [because the old ones were deteriorated], gets looks like Ferrari's but have to leave the country immediately so MUST sell [i need cash now]. all offers considered[please offer me 15 grand]. xxx-xxx-xxxx [here's my number because I want EVERYONE calling me] $25,000 [I hope at least, since I didn't tell you why I'm asking that much].
***
If you want professionals with the $$$ in the bank to actually buy your car you could go more a long the lines of this..
***
i.e.- excellent condition cosmetically/mechanically but not perfect [probably minor issues that are normal, I'll ask him in an email], all maint. records available including recent new clutch [hmm.. clutch is replaced as maint. as opposed to abuse sounds good], knowledgeable owner [hmm.. there goes most my chances of low balling him] and priced to sell 24k FIRM [I won't waste my time asking him to take my civic as a trade]. Email for questions/phone number [hmm.. if I have to go to the effort to email him instead of harassing him now on the phone, forget it], serious inquiries only [OK, I get it, your not going to be low balled].
***
Let the pictures show the seats etc. and if people don't like them they won't bother you. If they do like them or don't mind they'll ask you more questions and you can phrase the response to answer the question to your advantage.

a"the seats look OK in the pictures, what happened to the old ones"
b"Nothing you wouldn't find on any other 91 car. They had the usual minor wear/tear from 15 years of use so I spared no expense and refurbished them professionally for $1500 at blank shop."

etc. etc.

Be careful-many unexperienced 'car salesmen' will say 25k or something close to that; or along those lines, or "in the ball-park of". That's an instant 2k off. Might as well just say 23k -FIRM- so people don't waste your time. Trying to be greedy or get more than you truly think the car is worth is usually what wastes people's time. VERY VERY rarely do people pay more than a car's worth in a market like this. Also giving your number out at first can cause problems if you aren't convincing on the firmness of your price. On the opposite side, if you were to say 30k -FIRM- for your car, you might not get an email til 2009, so it can hurt you if you abuse it. Everyone and their mom will call to low ball you because if they call 100 people that seem a little desperate and even one guy says yes, they make 3-5k. Don't ask me how I know.
 
I'm not going to just reiterate everything already mentioned but I've got a couple tips from my perspective since you asked.

Coming from someone who has sold used cars on the side from Honda Accords to Lexus LS's for many years.. it's basically up to you what people you want to contact you.

If you want low baller's, you focus on the mods, how fast you can go in it, perhaps an emergency situation requiring you to sell it, and no justification for your price. Here's an example that just screams 'come rip me off I need to sell NOW and I'm probably hiding things so I'll even come down more, wholesalers and low ballers HIT ME UP NOW'. Text in brackets are what most people think when they read it->
***
i.e.-green NSX with awesome 19's [that's the best part?], [some overpriced] intake/exhaust, goes 150+mph and is steady as a rock [because I did it yesterday], new clutch [because I probably burnt it driving it aggressively], new "racing" seats [because the old ones were deteriorated], gets looks like Ferrari's but have to leave the country immediately so MUST sell [i need cash now]. all offers considered[please offer me 15 grand]. xxx-xxx-xxxx [here's my number because I want EVERYONE calling me] $25,000 [I hope at least, since I didn't tell you why I'm asking that much].
***
If you want professionals with the $$$ in the bank to actually buy your car you could go more a long the lines of this..
***
i.e.- excellent condition cosmetically/mechanically but not perfect [probably minor issues that are normal, I'll ask him in an email], all maint. records available including recent new clutch [hmm.. clutch is replaced as maint. as opposed to abuse sounds good], knowledgeable owner [hmm.. there goes most my chances of low balling him] and priced to sell 24k FIRM [I won't waste my time asking him to take my civic as a trade]. Email for questions/phone number [hmm.. if I have to go to the effort to email him instead of harassing him now on the phone, forget it], serious inquiries only [OK, I get it, your not going to be low balled].
***
Let the pictures show the seats etc. and if people don't like them they won't bother you. If they do like them or don't mind they'll ask you more questions and you can phrase the response to answer the question to your advantage.

a"the seats look OK in the pictures, what happened to the old ones"
b"Nothing you wouldn't find on any other 91 car. They had the usual minor wear/tear from 15 years of use so I spared no expense and refurbished them professionally for $1500 at blank shop."

etc. etc.

Be careful-many unexperienced 'car salesmen' will say 25k or something close to that; or along those lines, or "in the ball-park of". That's an instant 2k off. Might as well just say 23k -FIRM- so people don't waste your time. Trying to be greedy or get more than you truly think the car is worth is usually what wastes people's time. VERY VERY rarely do people pay more than a car's worth in a market like this. Also giving your number out at first can cause problems if you aren't convincing on the firmness of your price. On the opposite side, if you were to say 30k -FIRM- for your car, you might not get an email til 2009, so it can hurt you if you abuse it. Everyone and their mom will call to low ball you because if they call 100 people that seem a little desperate and even one guy says yes, they make 3-5k. Don't ask me how I know.

Exactly.
 
I'm not going to just reiterate everything already mentioned but I've got a couple tips from my perspective since you asked.

Coming from someone who has sold used cars on the side from Honda Accords to Lexus LS's for many years.. it's basically up to you what people you want to contact you.

If you want low baller's, you focus on the mods, how fast you can go in it, perhaps an emergency situation requiring you to sell it, and no justification for your price. Here's an example that just screams 'come rip me off I need to sell NOW and I'm probably hiding things so I'll even come down more, wholesalers and low ballers HIT ME UP NOW'. Text in brackets are what most people think when they read it->
***
i.e.-green NSX with awesome 19's [that's the best part?], [some overpriced] intake/exhaust, goes 150+mph and is steady as a rock [because I did it yesterday], new clutch [because I probably burnt it driving it aggressively], new "racing" seats [because the old ones were deteriorated], gets looks like Ferrari's but have to leave the country immediately so MUST sell [i need cash now]. all offers considered[please offer me 15 grand]. xxx-xxx-xxxx [here's my number because I want EVERYONE calling me] $25,000 [I hope at least, since I didn't tell you why I'm asking that much].
***
If you want professionals with the $$$ in the bank to actually buy your car you could go more a long the lines of this..
***
i.e.- excellent condition cosmetically/mechanically but not perfect [probably minor issues that are normal, I'll ask him in an email], all maint. records available including recent new clutch [hmm.. clutch is replaced as maint. as opposed to abuse sounds good], knowledgeable owner [hmm.. there goes most my chances of low balling him] and priced to sell 24k FIRM [I won't waste my time asking him to take my civic as a trade]. Email for questions/phone number [hmm.. if I have to go to the effort to email him instead of harassing him now on the phone, forget it], serious inquiries only [OK, I get it, your not going to be low balled].
***
Let the pictures show the seats etc. and if people don't like them they won't bother you. If they do like them or don't mind they'll ask you more questions and you can phrase the response to answer the question to your advantage.

a"the seats look OK in the pictures, what happened to the old ones"
b"Nothing you wouldn't find on any other 91 car. They had the usual minor wear/tear from 15 years of use so I spared no expense and refurbished them professionally for $1500 at blank shop."

etc. etc.

Be careful-many unexperienced 'car salesmen' will say 25k or something close to that; or along those lines, or "in the ball-park of". That's an instant 2k off. Might as well just say 23k -FIRM- so people don't waste your time. Trying to be greedy or get more than you truly think the car is worth is usually what wastes people's time. VERY VERY rarely do people pay more than a car's worth in a market like this. Also giving your number out at first can cause problems if you aren't convincing on the firmness of your price. On the opposite side, if you were to say 30k -FIRM- for your car, you might not get an email til 2009, so it can hurt you if you abuse it. Everyone and their mom will call to low ball you because if they call 100 people that seem a little desperate and even one guy says yes, they make 3-5k. Don't ask me how I know.

The last line is my MO buying RE.:biggrin:
As for the rest you are right on target. The thing that blows my mind is that there are people out there who don't get it. It really is pretty simple I can peg a situation within 30 seconds most of the time.
 
Back
Top