yea you can just drain it down a little , as far i see it drain completely , change the seal ,move on , i got fluid too if you need it
Inner CV Joint Boot Leak
- Thread starter Evoking
- Start date
Wow, you have fluid too? You're stocked with candy eh? 
You should come down! lol!
I guess it's some special tranny fluid too eh?
You should come down! lol!I guess it's some special tranny fluid too eh?
no its just honda MTF , which works fine , you will read a lot of stuff about different tranny lubes &how great they are , if your tranny is ok (no syncro grind) this is what you use , a lot guys talk about how diff. oils did away with their shifting problems , ITS JUST TEMPORARY , soon they will have shifting problems again !!!! I've played this game for a long time :wink:
- Joined
- 7 February 2010
- Messages
- 618
I don't know how you'd define "temporary" but I've been grind free for years for the past 50k of the 110k miles on my odometer since the change.
yea i expected this , there is always exceptions , your tranny probably was ok , were you constantly power shifting , stressing synchros , probably not , you 'll be ok , but TRUST ME when you start to grind in 2nd ,or 3rd , its the begining of the end , the blocker ring is bottomed on the gear , it can no longer synchronize , that is what these lubes do , they give you added time thru friction , drive it normally it will work . :wink:
Ok, got the nut off. Trying to get the axle out. Someone please e-mail me their number so I can call. Need help getting this out. [email protected] Thanks!
Ok, I have the driver's side cleaned and re-packed with grease. Now the passenger's side nut simply refuses to come off. D'OH! Time to Kroil the crap out of it and let it sit overnight... tomorrow is another day... wait... it's amost 1:30am... it is tomorrow! D'OH!!!
- Joined
- 7 February 2010
- Messages
- 618
Be sure to pop plenty of pain killers before bed. My chest and arms were soooo sore from working on my back under the car pulling the shaft out that it kept me up all night. I was in pain pretty bad.
Ok, got the passenger side hub nut off and removed everything else to get the shaft out. The shaft even came out very easily from the trans, unlike the drivers side. Here's my question: I was told to remove that little shield that covers the back side of the shaft. Does that really have to be removed? If yes, for what reason?
Ok, I removed the shield. I think it has to be removed to make room to get the axle out. Otherwise, its in the way.
Now all I have to do it pull the axle out. Unfortunately, my helper isn't available till next weekend so that's probably when we'll get it all done.
Next question: I'm going to change the trans seal while I'm in there. Does that require any special moves or anything? Or can it just be pried out of there and push the new one in like any other seal?
Now all I have to do it pull the axle out. Unfortunately, my helper isn't available till next weekend so that's probably when we'll get it all done.
Next question: I'm going to change the trans seal while I'm in there. Does that require any special moves or anything? Or can it just be pried out of there and push the new one in like any other seal?
Hey, also, where can I get the tool that properly installs these bands on the boots? Anyone out there???
NAPA
Part Number: SER 3191
Ok, cool. Does it crimp the clamp too or do I need another tool for that? The new style clamps are a loop and not two little flaps.
NAPA
Part Number: SER 3191
This should help.
Not the same tool but they work the same way.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnGeS2i6Jxs
Not the same tool but they work the same way.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnGeS2i6Jxs
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Wow, that's cool, but like I said, the new bands don't have the two little flaps. It has a solid loop now. I guess I could just pull it tight and loop it back over but there is no way to secure the excess piece. Any ideas?
OOOH OOOHH!!! I think I have one of those. Is this it? Performance Tool W83013
Only thing is, the center piece doesn't seem to protrude enough to crimp anything...
Only thing is, the center piece doesn't seem to protrude enough to crimp anything...
KDTool# 3955 or
Lisle 30800 CV Boot Clamp Pliers
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Understood. But the problem is, that's not the type of clamp supplied by Acura. Here's what came in my kit:
