redshift said:
Health issues.
He posted in December, so hopefully we will see more of his posts soon.
He's the man for nitrous.
I want to add a 100 hp nos to my stock nsx
- Thread starter baynsac
- Start date
Health issues.
He posted in December, so hopefully we will see more of his posts soon.
He's the man for nitrous.
DutchBlackNsx said:
Hey Guys! yep been way to long that I have been inactive putting feedback-content on prime.to break it down things went from bad to fubar.
As it stands now expect to see me on the forum a little more each week as I recover from my second heart attack and install of my pace-defib unit a month ago. I am getting better everyday but my sabatical away from everything helped me regain a large portion of heart health as opposed to the (time to put things in order speech I received in october)
I know that several of you have pm'd me in regard to n20 info,kit building help and inquiry to me buiding kits again,with that said if you emailed-pm'd me during the last several months and received no reply please dont take it personal as I checked my pm's first time in months just now.
If you still want or need n20 info or kit help or just want general input on the subject shoot me a new pm and I will get back to you in a timely manner.I dont want to see folks going in blind and getting bad info that might hose your motor.
Finally I have written many tech posts concerning spray on an NSX,its not enough to know your NSX inside and out or to know how to set up a system on another car,you need to know YOUR NSX and N20 inside and out to do it right. their has been many good indepth articles posted over the last couple years that are not dated in terms of application NOW! use the search BadCarma nitrious,N20, NOS (my brand of choice) and it should yield some info you want.
BTW missed you guys (you know who you are
Best Regards David
PS Tony thanks for the kind plug..hows the kit? Dutch how goes it? nsxlover call me bro
I'm not sure how you draw this conclusion. Turbos aside, a 75-HP shot on an NSX is more than 25% increase; on a 400HP car, the same 75-HP shot is less than a 20% increase. The difference in "feel" may not seem as dramatic, but if you doubt the logic, use more extreme numbers (75-HP shot on a 75-HP motor vs. a 75-HP shot on a 2000-HP motor.)nsxsupra said:
While "better choices" is certainly subjective, in the issue of price/performance, nitrous wins hands down. Unquestionably. There is no greater performance add-on for the dollar.....
Jeff
I ran a 50 shot wet nitrous system on my old 1984 porsche 944. A 10 pound bottle lasted me forever. I was on the bottle on a daily basis. I'd run through all the gears with the button pressed 
.
My friends cars that used to beat the crap out of me now had a run for their money.
It was only after I got in trouble and had to go to the state ref that I sold it. I will be getting nos for my nsx soon. Check out these dyno results.
http://www.driftermagazine.com/article/nos/page1/944dyno.jpg
Comparison:
125.7 HP 127.6 Torque
175.0 HP 201.1 Torque With NOS
. My friends cars that used to beat the crap out of me now had a run for their money.
It was only after I got in trouble and had to go to the state ref that I sold it. I will be getting nos for my nsx soon. Check out these dyno results.
http://www.driftermagazine.com/article/nos/page1/944dyno.jpg
Comparison:
125.7 HP 127.6 Torque
175.0 HP 201.1 Torque With NOS
I had NOS yes I call it NOS also on my first X or to not sound like a ricer NSX.
I had the venom set up and had a 75 shot then a 100 shot. It was all stock when I did that and I never had a problem at all. I am going to get NOS on the NSX I have now. I will get it maybe by the end of the year since I really don't need it and I am only going to get it because if my GF gets NOS for her BMW Z3, I can not have her leave me in the dust. As far at I know from personal experience NOS on a stock NSX that is under 100 shot is OK. Just don't be using it none stop like every day for 10 seconds cause then you might have a BOOM problem. when I get my KIT I am going to do 55 or 75 just to be super safe.
sorry man but some people on this forums don't like to help at all. I have had the same experience befor. But most NSX owner are super cool and can really help you allot. but be grateful that the cool NSX owners outnumber the ones who just like to make fun of people who have a question that they think is important.
I had the venom set up and had a 75 shot then a 100 shot. It was all stock when I did that and I never had a problem at all. I am going to get NOS on the NSX I have now. I will get it maybe by the end of the year since I really don't need it and I am only going to get it because if my GF gets NOS for her BMW Z3, I can not have her leave me in the dust. As far at I know from personal experience NOS on a stock NSX that is under 100 shot is OK. Just don't be using it none stop like every day for 10 seconds cause then you might have a BOOM problem. when I get my KIT I am going to do 55 or 75 just to be super safe.
sorry man but some people on this forums don't like to help at all. I have had the same experience befor. But most NSX owner are super cool and can really help you allot. but be grateful that the cool NSX owners outnumber the ones who just like to make fun of people who have a question that they think is important.
VampNSX said:
Vamp is correct in the above statement.blow off the loser who gave you shit for wanting to run n20 and made the movie reference....
My handle is BadCarma and I did not give it to myself,the local racers did because I eat every car that stepped to my n20 X EXCEPT FOR THAT DARN STAURT whom whas running the same n20 set up as me but had a very light car I could never pull him.
I am back for good and if you need any n20 help or understanding how to run a super safe hit up to 100whp,,,,I prefer 70-75 but I can point you in the correct direction. ask someone running my shit they will back me 100% I dont screw around when designing custom one off n20 systems for the X and I have the balance of knowing the auto inside and out and how to apply the correct system for the car in regard to stock or mod./
with that said I just got back in the game and I have been swamped with requests for info,tech resolution for spray and requests for kits .IF YOU PM ME IT WILL TAKE A WHILE!!! I try like hell to tell folks to just call me up and that I can square them away but not enough guys do it. unless I am doing an install for you other then that all my verbal phone help is free so take the short route and ring me up. I can set up any n20 system in production.
If you want to call PM me with title n20 phone help
Best Regards David
Well, I'd like to assure the poster, that if you want to go wrong right off the bat, then put your nitrous activation on a button.
I've seen multiple attacks on your use of the term "nos" in reference to the substance itself, but some of those very attackers refer to the fact of using the juice with push button activation. This, in my opinion, becomes a direct contradiction.
Having owned and installed more nitrous systems than I can recall, NEVER have I installed a system for street driven use that is button activated. This is even more pertinent as far as dry systems are concerned.
The potential for injection during part throttle is much too high with push button. Couple that with the mere potential that on the street your distracted for a moment and continue to spray while off the throttle. All these things are just mere potential for disaster.
The best way to apply any system for "fun" use on the street or weekend track, is to use the WOT microswitch solution or a method of advanced control through an EMS.
Like someone mentioned above, a clear and precise understanding of the system and it's functions is imperative to the long life of your engine with part time nitrous use. I personally have injected 4 cylinder Honda's that I have owned since 1998 with only one failure, and it was directly attributed to the system (I'll get to that). I have dry injected up to a 100 shot on unmodified 1.6 liter sohc vtecs and went through a bottle a weekend for almost two years in some instances with no issues at all.
With that said though, despite my personal CONTINUED preference for NOS systems, it was their solenoid failure which caused my engines demise. It is widely known that NX's solenoids have more reliable seats than do any other manufacturer. This is a good piece of mind if you choose to use some type of controller which will modulate the solenoid like an injector. Using this allows for a ramping effect similar to the feel of a turbo, which can heavily aid in traction.
Power is pointless if you can't put it to the ground.
I've seen multiple attacks on your use of the term "nos" in reference to the substance itself, but some of those very attackers refer to the fact of using the juice with push button activation. This, in my opinion, becomes a direct contradiction.
Having owned and installed more nitrous systems than I can recall, NEVER have I installed a system for street driven use that is button activated. This is even more pertinent as far as dry systems are concerned.
The potential for injection during part throttle is much too high with push button. Couple that with the mere potential that on the street your distracted for a moment and continue to spray while off the throttle. All these things are just mere potential for disaster.
The best way to apply any system for "fun" use on the street or weekend track, is to use the WOT microswitch solution or a method of advanced control through an EMS.
Like someone mentioned above, a clear and precise understanding of the system and it's functions is imperative to the long life of your engine with part time nitrous use. I personally have injected 4 cylinder Honda's that I have owned since 1998 with only one failure, and it was directly attributed to the system (I'll get to that). I have dry injected up to a 100 shot on unmodified 1.6 liter sohc vtecs and went through a bottle a weekend for almost two years in some instances with no issues at all.
With that said though, despite my personal CONTINUED preference for NOS systems, it was their solenoid failure which caused my engines demise. It is widely known that NX's solenoids have more reliable seats than do any other manufacturer. This is a good piece of mind if you choose to use some type of controller which will modulate the solenoid like an injector. Using this allows for a ramping effect similar to the feel of a turbo, which can heavily aid in traction.
Power is pointless if you can't put it to the ground.
RC000E said:
My shit is on a horn button wow did I screw up. glad I used a inline WOT switch, window switch,fuel pressure safety switch,AIR FUEL safety switch,oil pressure safety switch,bottle heater backup fuel solenoid...I think thats it.please help me get this right as us NSX folks dont know shit bout n20 xcept what we learned watching TV. PM me your address FNG and I will mail you a buck to get a clue.stick to your civic until you grow hair in the basement....now that thats over I am just F-ing with you! welcome and glad to see a another n20 guy on the forum:smile:
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baynsac
Guest
Hey I have a few more questions. I bought SNDSOUL old kit from Victor. The kit includes (parts listed below). Now I want to be able to run it safely, so what other parts do I need?? I want the whole system simple to maintain and use. I know I need a bottle warmer. Anything else??? Thanks guys
Parts list:
Nitrous Express Wet kit (retail $450)
polished 10lb bottle (retail $349)
billet aluminum bottle brackets (retail $249)
Nitrous express solenoids for nitrous and fuel, set of four (two come with kit, retail $100 ea)
Dual stage wet kit fogger nozzle (retail $100)
Single stage wet kit fogger nozzle ( comes with kit)
jets for 35,50,75 shots (retail $20 ea set)
inline nitrous filter and steel braided lines for n2o and fuel (retail $50, lines come with kit)
MSD Rpm window activation switch with 3000,5000 and 7000 pills (retail $49 per pack)
MSD Rpm activation switch (retail $100)
MSD tach driver (retail $79)
custom mount for MSD boxes (I made it out of 1/2" lexan)
Fuel pressure safety switch, NIB (retail $49)
WOT switch(comes with kit)
horn button ring kit for aftermarket steering wheel (retail $75)
Autometer nitrous pressure gauge (retail $248 with sender)
nitrous pressure gauge sending unit
Autometer AFR gauge (retail $100)
purge kit (retail $150)
Parts list:
Nitrous Express Wet kit (retail $450)
polished 10lb bottle (retail $349)
billet aluminum bottle brackets (retail $249)
Nitrous express solenoids for nitrous and fuel, set of four (two come with kit, retail $100 ea)
Dual stage wet kit fogger nozzle (retail $100)
Single stage wet kit fogger nozzle ( comes with kit)
jets for 35,50,75 shots (retail $20 ea set)
inline nitrous filter and steel braided lines for n2o and fuel (retail $50, lines come with kit)
MSD Rpm window activation switch with 3000,5000 and 7000 pills (retail $49 per pack)
MSD Rpm activation switch (retail $100)
MSD tach driver (retail $79)
custom mount for MSD boxes (I made it out of 1/2" lexan)
Fuel pressure safety switch, NIB (retail $49)
WOT switch(comes with kit)
horn button ring kit for aftermarket steering wheel (retail $75)
Autometer nitrous pressure gauge (retail $248 with sender)
nitrous pressure gauge sending unit
Autometer AFR gauge (retail $100)
purge kit (retail $150)
baynsac
Guest
Re: I want to add a 100 hp nos to my stock nsx/ GOT the kit need help completing it
Ok here is what I got new
1.Coper plugs BKR7E gapped at .35 or pregapped BKRE11 which is pregapped at .44
2. Replace fuel filter.
3. Validate fuel pump is still running strong. Add second inline fuel pump to be really careful.
4. Validate if your ignition is putting out enough spark ( OEM LEVEL)
Can BADCARMA or SNDSOUL or any others add to this. I know I need a few more things before I even think about getting it installed.
Ok here is what I got new
1.Coper plugs BKR7E gapped at .35 or pregapped BKRE11 which is pregapped at .44
2. Replace fuel filter.
3. Validate fuel pump is still running strong. Add second inline fuel pump to be really careful.
4. Validate if your ignition is putting out enough spark ( OEM LEVEL)
Can BADCARMA or SNDSOUL or any others add to this. I know I need a few more things before I even think about getting it installed.
Re: I want to add a 100 hp nos to my stock nsx/ GOT the kit need help completing it
8888888888888888888888888888888889
1. if you have the choice between both plugs go with the 7E'S instead of the 7E-11'S as .35 is best for n20 overall and bringing the gap down from .44 to .35 is to much don't try and gap more then .04 with a given plug
2. filter replace is in order and correct
3. validate pump is working at proper flow level,adding a second pump will not hurt. you can also jump your OEM pump up to 12 volt full time.
4. make sure your check your ignition system is as stated a must and check each coil pack is in spec.
5. send injectors off to RC and have them C&C'ed or buy new off ther shelf ones that flow 15% more fuel,if you have an older car use the peak hold injectors as they are better suited to n20 application.
6. replace air filter
7. check out the FPR and make sure it is up to snuff (on any of the older cars this stuff is good to do n20 prep or not. the FPR is what will raise your pressure during dry n20 activation.
THINGS THAT ARE NOT TO BE CONSIDERED AS ADD ON'S when installiing n20:
1. FPSS, the fuel pressure safety switch is attached to an NSX mostly via where the test port is on top of the fuel filter.you run your ground line off the primary solenoid to the switch and ground off the opposite side.it will not allow your primary to fire (the one that injects n20 via a fogger into the intake) until proper fuel pressure is present thus closing the circuit to ground and away you go.there are vairations on this setup that we can address if you explain what set up you are going with. I have put them in many different locations dependant on system design. on a base setup dry (AS AN EXAMPLE ONLY) you would have three n20 solenoids all n20 and marked with a blue logo by NOS,the blue indicates that only n20 will flow via the solenoid and lines entering and existing. so a basic set up would be in order that n20 enters them from the bottle.
purge: you install this as close to your primary solenoid and fuel solenoid as possible.the purge is used to remove n20 that has turned from loquid to gas state from lingering in the line for more the a minute,it will often go gas form much faster then that dependant on length of the feed line from bottle,a short feed is much better them those long lines that come with a kit. I rec and use a 6 foot line on my kits.anyway use the purge while waiting for launch if you are drag racing from a dig (dead stop) use it while maintaining a constant speed ready to launch from a slow roll and give it a hit if you are cruising and are about to launch on a car that has pulled up to you and slowed to your speed and wants to run you. two short taps of the activation button on any of the above conditions will bring that liquid n20 tothe solenoid and insure to shorten any lag in the system avfter activation. the purge is not a luxury and a part of any prper n20 setup.
Recap:so we have discussed the prep of the car and two componants of a proper dry n20 setup,the two features FPSS is safety and purge a componant of a well designed system.before we go into more safety elements and system activation lets talk about the bottle placement,bottle heater arrangement.
OK SORRY GUYS BUT I HAVE TO BREAK ASAP.
Break over:
lets discuss the bottle placement and heater:
This is often overlooked or perhaps under considered regarding the overall performance of your N20 setup,yes I know they go into detail about bottle position and its effect and if you buy a base kit the bottle heater is not their, now why would a corp that sells n20 kits leave the bottle warmer out of the BASE ? when if you do purchase one at the same time it has its own setup instructions and wire diagram and goes to great length's to insure you that you made a good choice for system design, so to be blunt as hell they as in most n20 vendors dont give a rats butt about your cars motor or the performance of the kit or it would be included with the base, ITS ALL ABOUT THE CASH FROM ADD ON'S for them. a bottle heater is required period and we will get to it after bottle placement.
Bottle placement is a critical aspect of any well designed system regardless of wet,dry,fogger,direct port ECT. I feel strongly about this and please remember alll the design we are working with here is for our beloved X'S,I dont care about where you put it or how well it works using another setup on another car.
Now I do know that many guys spraying have taken the path of mounting the bottle in the front compartment and run a long ass line back to the engine bay as to use the heat from the radiator to act as a heat source,yes it is using the noodle if you are short on cash and making the best of it but NOT in my world. for the test dry kit we are making with the thread we will decide to mount it in the rear bay on the drivers side as to effect a short feedline 6 feet for this model and we also are taking advantage of the exhaust right below the bottle.( for this model we do not remove the heat shield for the exhaust but some do this.)
The bottle we will mount or two will locate right where the bay is designed to store the OEM spare tire if not up front for reasons like me with a hood scoop that negates me mounting there. back to the bottle and lets get something out on the table right now.if you are installing n20 as a custom mod for the car show circuit and want pretty designs and a big list of mods I understand that is your thing and you dont worry about this section unless you want it functional and pretty, if you are into the show side you are probably pretty aware of all this.
Darn: break now,it cant be avoided will get back to it soon: please leave thread as is:
UPDATE GOT BUSY WITH A DUDES KIT AND MY BABE WAS SICK AS HECK THIS WEEKEND AND an unnamed 15 minutes of fame friend needed an ear so I have not slept for a couple days,I will be done with the kit tonight and need a long nights sleep THEN WILL CONTINUE THIS THREAD,GONNA GET GOOD SO STAY TUNED!
8888888888888888888888888888888889
yaynsx said:
1. if you have the choice between both plugs go with the 7E'S instead of the 7E-11'S as .35 is best for n20 overall and bringing the gap down from .44 to .35 is to much don't try and gap more then .04 with a given plug
2. filter replace is in order and correct
3. validate pump is working at proper flow level,adding a second pump will not hurt. you can also jump your OEM pump up to 12 volt full time.
4. make sure your check your ignition system is as stated a must and check each coil pack is in spec.
5. send injectors off to RC and have them C&C'ed or buy new off ther shelf ones that flow 15% more fuel,if you have an older car use the peak hold injectors as they are better suited to n20 application.
6. replace air filter
7. check out the FPR and make sure it is up to snuff (on any of the older cars this stuff is good to do n20 prep or not. the FPR is what will raise your pressure during dry n20 activation.
THINGS THAT ARE NOT TO BE CONSIDERED AS ADD ON'S when installiing n20:
1. FPSS, the fuel pressure safety switch is attached to an NSX mostly via where the test port is on top of the fuel filter.you run your ground line off the primary solenoid to the switch and ground off the opposite side.it will not allow your primary to fire (the one that injects n20 via a fogger into the intake) until proper fuel pressure is present thus closing the circuit to ground and away you go.there are vairations on this setup that we can address if you explain what set up you are going with. I have put them in many different locations dependant on system design. on a base setup dry (AS AN EXAMPLE ONLY) you would have three n20 solenoids all n20 and marked with a blue logo by NOS,the blue indicates that only n20 will flow via the solenoid and lines entering and existing. so a basic set up would be in order that n20 enters them from the bottle.
purge: you install this as close to your primary solenoid and fuel solenoid as possible.the purge is used to remove n20 that has turned from loquid to gas state from lingering in the line for more the a minute,it will often go gas form much faster then that dependant on length of the feed line from bottle,a short feed is much better them those long lines that come with a kit. I rec and use a 6 foot line on my kits.anyway use the purge while waiting for launch if you are drag racing from a dig (dead stop) use it while maintaining a constant speed ready to launch from a slow roll and give it a hit if you are cruising and are about to launch on a car that has pulled up to you and slowed to your speed and wants to run you. two short taps of the activation button on any of the above conditions will bring that liquid n20 tothe solenoid and insure to shorten any lag in the system avfter activation. the purge is not a luxury and a part of any prper n20 setup.
Recap:so we have discussed the prep of the car and two componants of a proper dry n20 setup,the two features FPSS is safety and purge a componant of a well designed system.before we go into more safety elements and system activation lets talk about the bottle placement,bottle heater arrangement.
OK SORRY GUYS BUT I HAVE TO BREAK ASAP.
Break over:
lets discuss the bottle placement and heater:
This is often overlooked or perhaps under considered regarding the overall performance of your N20 setup,yes I know they go into detail about bottle position and its effect and if you buy a base kit the bottle heater is not their, now why would a corp that sells n20 kits leave the bottle warmer out of the BASE ? when if you do purchase one at the same time it has its own setup instructions and wire diagram and goes to great length's to insure you that you made a good choice for system design, so to be blunt as hell they as in most n20 vendors dont give a rats butt about your cars motor or the performance of the kit or it would be included with the base, ITS ALL ABOUT THE CASH FROM ADD ON'S for them. a bottle heater is required period and we will get to it after bottle placement.
Bottle placement is a critical aspect of any well designed system regardless of wet,dry,fogger,direct port ECT. I feel strongly about this and please remember alll the design we are working with here is for our beloved X'S,I dont care about where you put it or how well it works using another setup on another car.
Now I do know that many guys spraying have taken the path of mounting the bottle in the front compartment and run a long ass line back to the engine bay as to use the heat from the radiator to act as a heat source,yes it is using the noodle if you are short on cash and making the best of it but NOT in my world. for the test dry kit we are making with the thread we will decide to mount it in the rear bay on the drivers side as to effect a short feedline 6 feet for this model and we also are taking advantage of the exhaust right below the bottle.( for this model we do not remove the heat shield for the exhaust but some do this.)
The bottle we will mount or two will locate right where the bay is designed to store the OEM spare tire if not up front for reasons like me with a hood scoop that negates me mounting there. back to the bottle and lets get something out on the table right now.if you are installing n20 as a custom mod for the car show circuit and want pretty designs and a big list of mods I understand that is your thing and you dont worry about this section unless you want it functional and pretty, if you are into the show side you are probably pretty aware of all this.
Darn: break now,it cant be avoided will get back to it soon: please leave thread as is:
UPDATE GOT BUSY WITH A DUDES KIT AND MY BABE WAS SICK AS HECK THIS WEEKEND AND an unnamed 15 minutes of fame friend needed an ear so I have not slept for a couple days,I will be done with the kit tonight and need a long nights sleep THEN WILL CONTINUE THIS THREAD,GONNA GET GOOD SO STAY TUNED!
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Re: I want to add a 100 hp nos to my stock nsx/ GOT the kit need help completing it
its about the peak hold matter.they are whats on your 91 as OEM and they should ohm at 2.5,It is the best thing you can do for even A/F across all the cylinders aside from direct port.
rc engineering is the place google em 24 hour turn time, I see you are in fla WHERE, if you want I can help you do the install free of charge of course...no I dont bullshit when it comes to n20. let me know when pm me,I got a gig next weekend but am cool aside from that and this tuesday I am slammed but any other day and we can knock it out proper if you wish if not I made the offer
best regards david
what year is your car? FORGET THAT SAW IT IN YOUR PROFILE.NSX~PERT said:
its about the peak hold matter.they are whats on your 91 as OEM and they should ohm at 2.5,It is the best thing you can do for even A/F across all the cylinders aside from direct port.
rc engineering is the place google em 24 hour turn time, I see you are in fla WHERE, if you want I can help you do the install free of charge of course...no I dont bullshit when it comes to n20. let me know when pm me,I got a gig next weekend but am cool aside from that and this tuesday I am slammed but any other day and we can knock it out proper if you wish if not I made the offer
best regards david
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Re: I want to add a 100 hp nos to my stock nsx/ GOT the kit need help completing it
David,
Thanks for your generosity, Im located in Miami. My car is at the body shop now touching up some burnt clearcoat. I should get it back by next week. I want to go small but extra safe I use to run an 80 shot with just colder plugs and FPR, never had any problems but this time I want to redo my setup I would like to bump it up to 100-110 shot. I found them
http://www.rceng.com/
Which ones do you recommend "cc/min?"
David,
Thanks for your generosity, Im located in Miami. My car is at the body shop now touching up some burnt clearcoat. I should get it back by next week. I want to go small but extra safe I use to run an 80 shot with just colder plugs and FPR, never had any problems but this time I want to redo my setup I would like to bump it up to 100-110 shot. I found them
http://www.rceng.com/
Which ones do you recommend "cc/min?"
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From one standpoint, the cost for decent modifications for the NSX are so expensive, nitrous becomes a great alternative to those that want a stock performing/sounding NSX when they want, and a z06 killer when they need it.
From another standpoint, the replacement cost for an NSX engine is quite high. 75hp is not worth getting overly concerned about, but at 100hp or above puts enough additional stress on the engine to the point you should not be attempting it if you cannot risk replacing the engine. Done right, it can last many years. If done even slightly incorrectly, you will be out 10 grand overnight.
It would be a shame to blow your engine up when you could have had a well set up SC or even turbo kit for much less.
Just do your HW as it seems you are and you'll probably be fine.
From another standpoint, the replacement cost for an NSX engine is quite high. 75hp is not worth getting overly concerned about, but at 100hp or above puts enough additional stress on the engine to the point you should not be attempting it if you cannot risk replacing the engine. Done right, it can last many years. If done even slightly incorrectly, you will be out 10 grand overnight.
It would be a shame to blow your engine up when you could have had a well set up SC or even turbo kit for much less.
Just do your HW as it seems you are and you'll probably be fine.
baynsac
Guest
Hey BADCARMA I have a few questions I would like to call you sometime Please check your pm
Thanks
Thanks
sahtt, From one standpoint, the cost for decent modifications for the NSX are so expensive, nitrous becomes a great alternative to those that want a stock performing/sounding NSX when they want, and a z06 killer when they need it.
SO you are saying that n20 done correctly is a cheap solution But not a decent modifiction? also you think our X'S are stock? and not modded with I/HE untill we hit the magic button? then its a zo6 killer.
From another standpoint, the replacement cost for an NSX engine is quite high. 75hp is not worth getting overly concerned about, but at 100hp or above puts enough additional stress on the engine to the point you should not be attempting it if you cannot risk replacing the engine. Done right, it can last many years. If done even slightly incorrectly, you will be out 10 grand overnight.
So correct me here because I want to understand your logic,at 100 hp is it n20 that becomes unsafe or the n20 safe and a risk the S/C also that is making a 100hp? so if the n20 is done right and the S/C WRONG wheres that put us?
It would be a shame to blow your engine up when you could have had a well set up SC or even turbo kit for much less.
I can get a S/C and correct engine management tuned and set up for much less then 10 grand? including a stand alone ecu and all the dyno time and a wide band logger OR you mean I could get a S/C base unit from COMPTECH and using their state of the art FMS I am way safer then the way I ,we do it with n20 which is BTW the same!. help me learn here,its never to late.what works best on your S/C?
looking forward to your response to ALL the questions answered as I really want to understand how they do the magic they do with a 100 saftey record.
for all you hard core tuners ready to xplain it to me I want to hear from the wise man first on ALL the points then feel free to chime?
Best Regards David
Just do your HW as it seems you are and you'll probably be fine.
we will take your thoughts to heart on this matter. BTW whats the differnce between how n20 makes its power and a standard 6 psi S/C and what is the difference in what is done hardware wise to tune the 6 psi COMPTECH unit and N20. Fyi THEY BOTH USE THE SAME TRICKING OF THE STCK ECU to attain A/F. if I add an aem ecu to control my n20 is it safer then the way the comptech unit controls A/F now?
and lastly do you own a supercharger? if so do you understand how it tricks the ecu into proper A/F and if so do you know how a n20 dry kit tricks the ECU? I really want to understand and save my precious motor from a 10 grand slag from a cheap trick setup that is good enough for n20 dry but not as solid as a S/C. btw has ,have ANY comptech blowers slagged a motor due to improper A/F or a turbo for that matter. please take the time to retort as you took the time to disparage and want to know these things so I never injure my motor with a bad S/C or n20 fuel mangement design. and will then dismiss those photos of the S/C comptech car with a hole in the engine block you could STICK your head through.
Their is always so much to learn from the new tuners these days, you are a tuner right? I may be intererested having my car tuned by you so I dont lose its awesome A/F on and off the juice AND I really want to understand how and why my motors compression is so good. and can help me with my COMPTECH S/C with direct port n20 setup I am working on so I have it down pat.
SO you are saying that n20 done correctly is a cheap solution But not a decent modifiction? also you think our X'S are stock? and not modded with I/HE untill we hit the magic button? then its a zo6 killer.
From another standpoint, the replacement cost for an NSX engine is quite high. 75hp is not worth getting overly concerned about, but at 100hp or above puts enough additional stress on the engine to the point you should not be attempting it if you cannot risk replacing the engine. Done right, it can last many years. If done even slightly incorrectly, you will be out 10 grand overnight.
So correct me here because I want to understand your logic,at 100 hp is it n20 that becomes unsafe or the n20 safe and a risk the S/C also that is making a 100hp? so if the n20 is done right and the S/C WRONG wheres that put us?
It would be a shame to blow your engine up when you could have had a well set up SC or even turbo kit for much less.
I can get a S/C and correct engine management tuned and set up for much less then 10 grand? including a stand alone ecu and all the dyno time and a wide band logger OR you mean I could get a S/C base unit from COMPTECH and using their state of the art FMS I am way safer then the way I ,we do it with n20 which is BTW the same!. help me learn here,its never to late.what works best on your S/C?
looking forward to your response to ALL the questions answered as I really want to understand how they do the magic they do with a 100 saftey record.
for all you hard core tuners ready to xplain it to me I want to hear from the wise man first on ALL the points then feel free to chime?
Best Regards David
Just do your HW as it seems you are and you'll probably be fine.
we will take your thoughts to heart on this matter. BTW whats the differnce between how n20 makes its power and a standard 6 psi S/C and what is the difference in what is done hardware wise to tune the 6 psi COMPTECH unit and N20. Fyi THEY BOTH USE THE SAME TRICKING OF THE STCK ECU to attain A/F. if I add an aem ecu to control my n20 is it safer then the way the comptech unit controls A/F now?
and lastly do you own a supercharger? if so do you understand how it tricks the ecu into proper A/F and if so do you know how a n20 dry kit tricks the ECU? I really want to understand and save my precious motor from a 10 grand slag from a cheap trick setup that is good enough for n20 dry but not as solid as a S/C. btw has ,have ANY comptech blowers slagged a motor due to improper A/F or a turbo for that matter. please take the time to retort as you took the time to disparage and want to know these things so I never injure my motor with a bad S/C or n20 fuel mangement design. and will then dismiss those photos of the S/C comptech car with a hole in the engine block you could STICK your head through.
Their is always so much to learn from the new tuners these days, you are a tuner right? I may be intererested having my car tuned by you so I dont lose its awesome A/F on and off the juice AND I really want to understand how and why my motors compression is so good. and can help me with my COMPTECH S/C with direct port n20 setup I am working on so I have it down pat.
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Re: I want to add a 100 hp nos to my stock nsx/ GOT the kit need help completing it
BTW FYI, the older cars were peak hold better for n20 on the 3.0 and the newer cars use saturated 270 cc on the 3.2 motor I think am not sure off the top off my head,I used to know but the memory ya know. but I do remember that if you swap out injectors you can use peak hold on a newer car that came with saturated but not the other way around,you cant use saturated on a peak hold car ,has to do with the ecu,with the aem whoa..I would put in some big boys and adjust the driver pulse at will during tuning.cant remmber off hand about using either or on the aem ecu but think yes but would get that qaulified by aem
without knowing what set up you are going with wet or dry, off hand I would choose the 270cc peak hold if I was buying, for the cost to buy you can get your all done for 175$ the cost of two new ones. you get a report that shows system balance and thats critical for A/F ON a single FOGGER set up. I would contact them and tell them you have 240 peak hold ion the car. and ASK them how high they can go without effecting idle or causing washdown.BTW IF YOU DONT BUY AND THEYU SAY YEAH 270 P/H SOUNDS GOOD BUT YOU COULD GOA A LITTLE HIGHER OR LOWER ,THEY CAN SET THE ONES YOU SEND IN UP TO THE NEW FLOW RATE,COST MORE,JUST DO THE MATH AND LISTEN TO THETRE ADVISE CAUSE THEY KNOW INJECTORS! you might be surprised,tell em what they are being done for and ask em what the think.NSX~PERT said:
BTW FYI, the older cars were peak hold better for n20 on the 3.0 and the newer cars use saturated 270 cc on the 3.2 motor I think am not sure off the top off my head,I used to know but the memory ya know. but I do remember that if you swap out injectors you can use peak hold on a newer car that came with saturated but not the other way around,you cant use saturated on a peak hold car ,has to do with the ecu,with the aem whoa..I would put in some big boys and adjust the driver pulse at will during tuning.cant remmber off hand about using either or on the aem ecu but think yes but would get that qaulified by aem
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Re: I want to add a 100 hp nos to my stock nsx/ GOT the kit need help completing it
Im planning on going with a dry kit and sparying depending who Im going to run......lol, 75-100 or possibly 110 shots, no more. So sending out my inj. to these guys will make my set-up that much more safer? how about performance will it also increase when not on the juice? What do you think?
Im planning on going with a dry kit and sparying depending who Im going to run......lol, 75-100 or possibly 110 shots, no more. So sending out my inj. to these guys will make my set-up that much more safer? how about performance will it also increase when not on the juice? What do you think?
Re: I want to add a 100 hp nos to my stock nsx/ GOT the kit need help completing it
the increased flow rate you are getting might give you a smidge OR it might slow you down a smidge, the reason you are getting them is for on the juice and then yes they will allow the fuel to be evenly dispursed in the manifold as well ad the n20.and you will not tax the duty cycle. its the whole safe thing.
BTW WHEN I say gain or loss off the spray you would need a dyno to see it.I am talking a very minute gain or loss. on the spray you wont be worrying about the motor detonating. IMHO I would not run dry 100-110.if you want to go that high goe wet. read my post on this matter via search. the motor will not like a dry shot that high FOR THE LONG HAUL UNLESS you get an AEM ECU then you can upgrade your fuel pump and injectors and run 125 dry safe.now you only have to worry about the max the motor can handle and the power is NOT linear like a S/C .
LET me make this real clear, a S/C builds its power on a pretty staight line to redline. if you here some say I am buying the new this or that and it makes 125hp at the wheels THAT IS AT THE WHEELS DAMN CLOSE TO YOUR REV LIMITER. at about 7800 RPM.
Now when you here a N20 guy say I am making 100 at the wheels that is at 2500 RPM all the way to redline. it will smoke the hell out of the car putting down 100 at the wheels on a S/C and the torque is sicko. now someone tell me I am wrong.
SO with all this said if you have not owned an NSX with N20 or driven you buddys TRUST ME when I say you need a teeny little 75 shot to be very happy I mean it. it is apples and oranges with the S/C cars*(btw this is not meant to diparage the S/C cars I want an S/C myself after some motor work and have decided to wait until I need a motor.that will be a long time (I KID I am looking for a spare motor now). AND you can upgrade your n20 system so easy after install of all the wiring and safety devices,add a second bottle if you want. start out low and dyno the car and if you want more prep the car for more and go for it. if you do get an AEM and inj the standard dry kit solenoids are good for making 175 hp so whatever you decide will be easy.but when the moron says listen buddy I got the pills to make 125 hp or 150 even and they are only 3 bucks for the pair RUN like hell not safe on a stock motor injected with n20 for the LONG HAUL, like I have said all along n20 and S/C are not the same,look and compare dyno charts,a picture is worth a thousand words
NSX~PERT said:
the increased flow rate you are getting might give you a smidge OR it might slow you down a smidge, the reason you are getting them is for on the juice and then yes they will allow the fuel to be evenly dispursed in the manifold as well ad the n20.and you will not tax the duty cycle. its the whole safe thing.
BTW WHEN I say gain or loss off the spray you would need a dyno to see it.I am talking a very minute gain or loss. on the spray you wont be worrying about the motor detonating. IMHO I would not run dry 100-110.if you want to go that high goe wet. read my post on this matter via search. the motor will not like a dry shot that high FOR THE LONG HAUL UNLESS you get an AEM ECU then you can upgrade your fuel pump and injectors and run 125 dry safe.now you only have to worry about the max the motor can handle and the power is NOT linear like a S/C .
LET me make this real clear, a S/C builds its power on a pretty staight line to redline. if you here some say I am buying the new this or that and it makes 125hp at the wheels THAT IS AT THE WHEELS DAMN CLOSE TO YOUR REV LIMITER. at about 7800 RPM.
Now when you here a N20 guy say I am making 100 at the wheels that is at 2500 RPM all the way to redline. it will smoke the hell out of the car putting down 100 at the wheels on a S/C and the torque is sicko. now someone tell me I am wrong.
SO with all this said if you have not owned an NSX with N20 or driven you buddys TRUST ME when I say you need a teeny little 75 shot to be very happy I mean it. it is apples and oranges with the S/C cars*(btw this is not meant to diparage the S/C cars I want an S/C myself after some motor work and have decided to wait until I need a motor.that will be a long time (I KID I am looking for a spare motor now). AND you can upgrade your n20 system so easy after install of all the wiring and safety devices,add a second bottle if you want. start out low and dyno the car and if you want more prep the car for more and go for it. if you do get an AEM and inj the standard dry kit solenoids are good for making 175 hp so whatever you decide will be easy.but when the moron says listen buddy I got the pills to make 125 hp or 150 even and they are only 3 bucks for the pair RUN like hell not safe on a stock motor injected with n20 for the LONG HAUL, like I have said all along n20 and S/C are not the same,look and compare dyno charts,a picture is worth a thousand words
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Re: I want to add a 100 hp nos to my stock nsx/ GOT the kit need help completing it
I have no experience with N2O, but HP value is a function of both RPM and torque. If N2O is giving an even 100HP from 2500 to redline, the torque (from N2O) would have to be decreasing as the engine revs higher. It would have to be 1/3 @ 7500RPM whatever it is at 2500RPM. Again, I have no experience with N2O, but is that the case? Or is it that the torque is even across the powerband and HP increases?BadCarma said:
Re: I want to add a 100 hp nos to my stock nsx/ GOT the kit need help completing it
DAE, if HP is a function of RPM and torque why do motors continue to make more HP when their torque level has become as you stated flat at some point in the powerband, now you question is very relevent yet pissed me off at the same time because to explain it correctly I need to dig way back and pull up a hardcore N20 tune post where this is explained quite well aside from the fact it took me a couple hours to lay out every little detail and included formulas and discussion on CFM and fuel injector theory and charts and all mannor of ho ha...so I dig it up or rewrite it,and as much as I would injoy that I think you are the only one following the thread that cares about how or why they just want it and care less how it happens and why. we need to talk about injector duty cycles, cfm ,massive cfm as the motor reaches its max mechanical ability to make power HP without breaking something fuel system setup and how n20 is not much different then a S/C in theory but makes more power faster. do you want the hardcore nuts and bolts and have no plans to run it and just want me to back my statment with facts, or are you really into the nuts and bolts of how S/C n20 Turbos make power in a clinical way or do you just want to see dyno charts with brief examples and explanations. that would be easier ,even easier if I had you prove me wrong with well thoughtout plots and examples of your own more then a brief understatement.
I am going to ask you a question now before tonight,now I do the same as you did I Quote the point that interests me or pisses me off or think is relevent BUT what about the sentence before the one that interested you.I think you looked at comptechs dyno chart that is linear and built your conclusions working backwards,if you did it that way its why your question is oversimplified
IT IS WAY MORE COMPLICATED THEN HP IS A FUNCTION OF TORQUE AND RPM, its 845 and as a few on the forum know I have been at it all night.I will leave this for tonight,you had better give me more then a oh yeah after I write it.I dont mind disagreement ,I only mind mindless disaggreement. come around tonight
lets have a good discussion,something thats been missing lately.a good discussion that is better then you are wrong im right chatter but something with some meat to it that doesnt make people want to throw stones at each other. see you tonight
best regards David
ps if I can put down 100 whp at 2500 rpm and I have a second stage that is set up to kick in at 6000rpm and the first stage kicks off at the same time am I not putting down 100 ADDITONAL hp at both 2500rpm and 6000 rpm and thus al the way thru the band?what happened to my torque curve is it falling off,is their a balance act between torque and rpm making HP, or do you mean torque and CFM make HP...WHAT DO YOU MEAN HEHE oh yeah is my second shot set up for 100hp making 100 at 6000 rpm?or do I need to set up for a bigger shot to make the same hp.remember n20 systems are 'dumb' they dont know what the cfm is ,think on that for your answer. lets have some fun with this.
Daedalus said:
DAE, if HP is a function of RPM and torque why do motors continue to make more HP when their torque level has become as you stated flat at some point in the powerband, now you question is very relevent yet pissed me off at the same time because to explain it correctly I need to dig way back and pull up a hardcore N20 tune post where this is explained quite well aside from the fact it took me a couple hours to lay out every little detail and included formulas and discussion on CFM and fuel injector theory and charts and all mannor of ho ha...so I dig it up or rewrite it,and as much as I would injoy that I think you are the only one following the thread that cares about how or why they just want it and care less how it happens and why. we need to talk about injector duty cycles, cfm ,massive cfm as the motor reaches its max mechanical ability to make power HP without breaking something fuel system setup and how n20 is not much different then a S/C in theory but makes more power faster. do you want the hardcore nuts and bolts and have no plans to run it and just want me to back my statment with facts, or are you really into the nuts and bolts of how S/C n20 Turbos make power in a clinical way or do you just want to see dyno charts with brief examples and explanations. that would be easier ,even easier if I had you prove me wrong with well thoughtout plots and examples of your own more then a brief understatement.
I am going to ask you a question now before tonight,now I do the same as you did I Quote the point that interests me or pisses me off or think is relevent BUT what about the sentence before the one that interested you.I think you looked at comptechs dyno chart that is linear and built your conclusions working backwards,if you did it that way its why your question is oversimplified
IT IS WAY MORE COMPLICATED THEN HP IS A FUNCTION OF TORQUE AND RPM, its 845 and as a few on the forum know I have been at it all night.I will leave this for tonight,you had better give me more then a oh yeah after I write it.I dont mind disagreement ,I only mind mindless disaggreement. come around tonight
lets have a good discussion,something thats been missing lately.a good discussion that is better then you are wrong im right chatter but something with some meat to it that doesnt make people want to throw stones at each other. see you tonightbest regards David
ps if I can put down 100 whp at 2500 rpm and I have a second stage that is set up to kick in at 6000rpm and the first stage kicks off at the same time am I not putting down 100 ADDITONAL hp at both 2500rpm and 6000 rpm and thus al the way thru the band?what happened to my torque curve is it falling off,is their a balance act between torque and rpm making HP, or do you mean torque and CFM make HP...WHAT DO YOU MEAN HEHE
oh yeah is my second shot set up for 100hp making 100 at 6000 rpm?or do I need to set up for a bigger shot to make the same hp.remember n20 systems are 'dumb' they dont know what the cfm is ,think on that for your answer. lets have some fun with this.
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baynsac
Guest
HEY BADCARMA I pm'ed you with the title N02 phone help like you asked, can you check it out I would love to get your advice before I go throw some more money away. If you are not available by phone let me know whats the best way to reach you. I have my kit listed above I just want to first collect all the parts I need to make this a complete safe badcarma approved kit. Than I will find a good tuner around here to install it. Thanks
Not looking to get into a heated discussion or ride any nerves. I pretty much take your word on most of what you write, but no, I'm probably not going to install a N2O system on any of my cars. I read this thread because I'm interested in most things related to engine performance and it doesn't hurt, right? But if I see something that doesn't sound right I'll speak up. HP is a calculated value. Dynamometers can only measure the torque at any given point in time. The HP value must be calculated from measured torque. HP = (torque x RPM)/5252. Look at any dyno chart and punch in the numbers to verify. Thus if torque flatlines, HP still goes up as RPMs go up. But if I hear that HP is the same throughout the powerband, I raise an eyebrow and ask a question because it doesn't sound right to me.
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