I have also bought one, mine cost 1895, pretty much the same thing. Now if only i could sell that 911 turbo to buy back an NSX...
I Bought a Lift today!
- Thread starter Sinisfun
- Start date
I also don't have a come-along, haha. I might go get one, or a compressor.
Ya, I think I paid too much for mine, did you have to pay extra for delivery? Did you get any extra parts with yours, like the oil tarp and the jack plate? Very nice Porsche BTW.
Here are the pictures...
I researched all the available options for nearly two months and in the end felt I was getting more than a reasonable product for a decent price. I saw only two examples in my search that were less expensive and they simply didn't appear to have sufficient spec and made me feel I would be purchasing an inferior product. I also didn't have to pay to have mine delivered or set-up which automatically adds to the bottom line.
Tim
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- 29 May 2007
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- 439
Ahhhh, the voice of experience. Don't say I didn't try to warn you - I paid for the installation on my second lift and think it was money well spent.
There wasn't one big problem, just a lot of little things, and I'd figure out I did something wrong/backwards and have to take parts off then re-install them properly. The lift is hydraulic, my new problem is that whenever I use it my breaker almost pops.
Ahhhh, the voice of experience. Don't say I didn't try to warn you - I paid for the installation on my second lift and think it was money well spent.
Ya you're definately right, the first time I got it moving was a good feeling though.
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I had the same problem with the breaker. Turns out I had too long of a cable run from the panel to the lift for the size of cable I was using. I upgraded the cable to welding cable (I forget the gauge) and I'm no longer popping breakers.
I picked mine up with a buddy of mine who has an industrial trailer, so no shipping. I have the jack tray and the wheels to move the lift but i am missing the oil pans, i figured i would just buy some 4x8 and it will do the job.
How wide is your garage and when you park a full sized car beside the liftcan you walk between the lift and the car next to it?
This item should be on a dedicated circuit. A 15A circuit with 14/2 wire will work, but it would be best to put in a 20A circuit with 12/2 wire to best handle the amperage.
Other wise it looks like a tight fit. I have high lift doors so I can open the garage door with a car on the lift at full height. I can also walk under the lift without ducking (6'-2" to u/s of rails). I built my garage addition and always planned for having a lift in it. I also planned for work benches, storage, tire racks, and the wifes 2500 Ram Diesel. My garage is 26' wide and has a staggered depth of 26' & 32'. Even with this much space I would have desired more as it's still tighter than I would desire and you don't want to be a bubba if you have to walk around the posts.
Tim
Hmm time to install a 30A circuit!
This I can probably do.
I doubt I can upgrade the wiring since my garage is an attached and the basement is finished so it would be hard to re-run wire from the panel to the garage.
My garage is 19" from inside wall to inside wall, I'll take pictures of the width versus having a car parked beside it, I forgot to tell Lift King that I needed an L bracket to mount my motor on so it wouldn't take up as much room, I phoned them today and they are going to send the bracket out on Greyhound first thing Monday morning free of charge.
Pretty much all I can do now is change the circuit, I don't know how I'd get a dedicated line for this. It's going to be really bad when I get my garage heater installed, so I do need to figure this out.
I would have liked to have designed a larger garage like yours when I bought this house, but when my company moved me I had a deadline to get my new house so I went with a spec home that was already under construction.
what is the power of your pump? Mine only uses 15A on start up and then goes back to 5 amps.
WRONG!! Do NOT put in a larger breaker without changing the wire.
You can ALWAYS put a smaller breaker on a larger wire, but you cannot put a large breaker on a smaller wire. This is a code breach and a fire hazzard. You could always run shielded cable or a PVC conduit to contain a dedicated circuit if thiat was your only option.Ultimately it should run on a 15A circuit so as long as you have nothing else drawing from that circuit at the same time you shouldn't have any problems.
Tim
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WRONG!! Do NOT put in a larger breaker without changing the wire.
My entire garage is on the same circuit, I don't know how I would get a dedicated power line to the garage. It's fine the way it is for now, it only blows it if I don't put the lift down on a stop first.
I don't know, I'll have to find out.
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It looks like you have a four panel garage door. Wont it hit your top vehicle in the lift when you open it? or do you still have to change the garage door track to go higher before it bends?
It looks to be the same, there are a lot that use the same parts, but most that I've looked at have a couple small differences (mostly the channel for the safety lock). Babco also sells one that looks identical for $1900.00.
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Yea just pop in a 30A breaker and have an electrician run some conduit to the lift so that its separate and wont be used by anything else. You don't have to pull up all your sheetrock for that 
Also is there enough room to work on the car while its lifted up? It would be nice if it doubled as a shop lift and not just for storage...
Also is there enough room to work on the car while its lifted up? It would be nice if it doubled as a shop lift and not just for storage...
When it's fully raised there is 77" clearance, but I don't know if I can lift it all the way with a car on it in my garage, maybe the NSX. I plan on doing some work on my Colt tommorow on it, so I guess I'll find out. :biggrin:
I've already ordered the new garage door hardware to raise the tracks, so I can't raise it over about 3-4 feet before that.
Perhaps an idea for those that don't have room for a 4-post lift:
As I have a somewhat small 2 car garage (6/6 metres) that is only 2.90m high, a 4 or even 2 post lift just takes up too much space (I wouldn't be able to park a 2nd car next to it anymore, nore under it.:frown:
I found the perfect solution: a 1 post lift:smile:
When lifting the NSX, I can clear about 1.2 m under it (as I am limited by the hight of the garagedoor frame that is above it), making it possible to comfortly work under the car while sitting/rolling around under it on a wheeled stool.
As only the middle section of the car is blocked by the main lift beam, it is perfect for a mid/rear engined car, as that doesn't have anything important in that section.
On 220-240V (home voltage) it has a lifting capacity of 1700KG, and with a 380V motor (regular workshop power voltage here in Europe) it has a capacity of 2000KG, more than enough for a NSX or likewise.
Have used it for the NSX and my MR2 Turbo a lot already and it works perfectly.:biggrin:
As I have a somewhat small 2 car garage (6/6 metres) that is only 2.90m high, a 4 or even 2 post lift just takes up too much space (I wouldn't be able to park a 2nd car next to it anymore, nore under it.:frown:
I found the perfect solution: a 1 post lift:smile:
When lifting the NSX, I can clear about 1.2 m under it (as I am limited by the hight of the garagedoor frame that is above it), making it possible to comfortly work under the car while sitting/rolling around under it on a wheeled stool.
As only the middle section of the car is blocked by the main lift beam, it is perfect for a mid/rear engined car, as that doesn't have anything important in that section.
On 220-240V (home voltage) it has a lifting capacity of 1700KG, and with a 380V motor (regular workshop power voltage here in Europe) it has a capacity of 2000KG, more than enough for a NSX or likewise.
Have used it for the NSX and my MR2 Turbo a lot already and it works perfectly.:biggrin:
those lifts are GREAT but they cost at least double the price of a 4 posts.
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