What about the type-R braces that SOS sells? Does anyone have experience with them?
How to reduce flex?
- Thread starter 2000NSXT
- Start date
I would expect them to help, but maybe not as much since they are not specifically designed to address targa flex...
Flex, especially, in the NSX-T is there to help the car cornform to the pitch and contour of the highway or road surface. When the car flexes it helps the true high performace driver, like we all are, by moulding the car to the road, helping you when your skills exceed the basic design.
Flex is FUN. Flex is fast! Bounce is better!
Flex is FUN. Flex is fast! Bounce is better!
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Viagra. Fixes limp targa syndrome np!
Actually I don't. You guys are the ones with the limp targas! LOL
Mine's stiffer... :tongue:
Worth it if you track the car. On the street with a coupe.... meh...
Bracing is application based. When you have 1200 pound springs, are on slicks, and going around a turn at Laguna Seca you need more bracing than when you are on stock suspension, street tires, going around a turn in your neighborhood that you think is fast. LOL...
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I have a targa and I plan to track it. But initially I am running on street tires and stock suspension. I guess I'm wondering if the type-R bracing is significant enough to make a meaningful difference. And if I would wish for something else once I set up the car better for the track?
Yes I think you will wish for something else eventually. Get just a STMPO FCB for the front for now if you want my opinion. It is way better than the R bar. Leave that setup on until your car has a lot more suspension and tire on it and you are more advanced. Everyone will have an opinion on this but that is what I would personally do.
I think this is the essence of the problem. Is there any way to strengthen the floor with a X-brace or somehow connect the front and rear sections underneath the car?
This weekend my friend and I went for some spirited drives, him in S2K, me in NSXT. My NSX-T has the Taitec front strut tower bar (BTW doesn't do too much, also needs some trimming to fit), STMPO rear triangle bar (easily the BEST stiffening mod you can do) , type R front bars (maybe a little difference?). His S2K has Spoon x-brace, and a hard dog bolt in roll bar. The S2K was noticeably stiffer---just feels like "one piece". And I think the reason for the difference is because S2K has a very high and strong center tunnel.
I like the NSX-T for its uniqueness but I remember the first time I drove my car (bone stock) over a bump with the roof off I was like "why is the front going one way and the rear going the other?" The braces definitely helped. So it may mean the middle part is absorbing more force, but it could also mean that the torsional force is more equally transmitted now from side to side.
Ultimately I think the fundamental problem is that the floor wasn't designed for open top motoring, and also because the car is aluminum it's just not as stiff as a steel car (at least back when the NSX was originally designed).
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how to reduce flex?
sell the NSX and get a proper coupe.
sell the NSX and get a proper coupe.
when I take the top off and hit a bump,the wheel wiggles in my hand more then I would like.that said it's worth it to me for the pleasure of top-off motoring on a nice day.the t does have a fair amount of stiffening material in it,which has to be doing something,though,and I assume with the top on it's about as stiff as a coupe.here's the reinforcements from the wiki-Approx. 100 lbs heaver than 1991/1992 models due to reinforcements for targa top, including: The base of the B pillar where it joins the rocker panel, larger rear bulkhead crossbar, thicker trunk leading edge panel, a redesigned and thicker-walled rear roof section, a redesigned front roof rail section, additional rib in the center rear bulkhead section, a completely redesigned and thicker upper A-pillar. There's also a redesigned and thicker upper dashboard cross member and a redesigned front lower floor section. The extruded aluminum side sills were extensively reinforced - wall thickness of the vertical center web of the 5-sided extrusion went from 2mm to 6mm
Several customers have substantial increases in chassis rigidity, steering feel, and turn-in with our chassis bar packages. All chromoly, no "flanges" to flex; all buttressed construction.
Check them out on the website, and where we are offering a sale until October 1st. There is also a link in the Vendor section.
Check them out on the website, and where we are offering a sale until October 1st. There is also a link in the Vendor section.
Cody, I checked out your site, the front upper and rear braces and targa braces look great and has great reviews from other owners. I am seriously considering it. If you were to do this in stages, what would you recommend? Would love to buy the complete package but just bought some wheels 
. My goal is a better street car with 2-3 HPDE days a year. Thanks.
. My goal is a better street car with 2-3 HPDE days a year. Thanks.
Cody, I checked out your site, the front upper and rear braces and targa braces look great and has great reviews from other owners. I am seriously considering it. If you were to do this in stages, what would you recommend? Would love to buy the complete package but just bought some wheels
The complete package is the way to go, but many start with the front upper brace, then purhcase the front lower. For the Coupes, a lot of guys call it good. For the Targas, our Targa bar makes a world of difference. PM DRZZZ for impressions, he took delivery of his car in early August and was quite happy.
for those who have a stock targa like me,does the flex you are feeling come in the form of the wheel wiggling form side to side when you hit a bump with the roof off? i want to be sure what i am feeling is the normal flex and not something else.the car has 40k miles on it,and i've had the suspension checked out for this issue,with no problems found.
Our chassis bar system eliminates that flex.
How does it do that that because I have a STMPO FCB, a welded chromoly STMPO rear targa brace, both type R braces, and a steel harness bar that is tightly bracing 4 points in the B pillar an floor. And I still have flex. So how does your system eliminate flex? I really would like an answer to this question:
How does stiffening the front half and the rear half of the car, reduce flex in the middle when the middle is where the problem is and the joint is basically only the floor. Doors do nothing, and as billy Johnson said, remove the targa, open your doors, and look at the car.
That is what holds the front and rear halves together. That is where the flex is. Logic tells me stiffening the other parts sends more stress into the section that is the weakest link.
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Logic tells me unless you join the A and B pillars, you are not going to reduce THAT flex.
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When I go into a driveway a wheel at a time I still hear creaking around my targa.
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as above...I have all the type R braces and a comptech harness bar which is a very solid piece and my car is still floppy in the middle with the roof off. I like the toys in the attic guy with those braces across the top of what an f-50?
