I'm going through a major rebuild of a '91 right now which is basically a frame off restoration. There are hundreds maybe even thousands of fasteners that hold together many critical components together. The NSX in its majority is made of many aluminum components. These must be fastened together correctly to ensure our beloved car (and any other car) performs as safely and flawlessly as it was designed for by Honda Engineers (and other companies as well).
I was taught the importance of tourqing fasteners at an early age, and the importance of over, and under tightening fasteners in different materials. The design of contact surfaces between materials that have been thoroughly analyzed for stress, fatigue, strain, or thermal expansion. All that need to be fitted together within a certain degree of tightness and tolerance in order to successfully meet the design requirements set out. Lets face it your car took many very skilled Engineers & Experts years of R&D I thought the NSX was +10yrs in the making prior to 1991.
I saw a post about if the threads of the bolt were dry, oiled lubed for the torque procedure. Any lube will reduce the amount of friction between the threads, so less torque is needed to obtain the same clamping load. If I'm in doubt install the bolts with clean, dry threads as Honda used only the designated nuts and bolts coated with DACRO or DACRO + TORQUER. Right from the repair manual "DACRO finish can be identified by gray plating. Dacro finish bolts have a green coating on the thread section of the bolt for easier application. This type of bolt is called a "Torquer" bolt. Use of other types of nuts and bolts may cause electrolysis and corrosion, which in turn could cause the bolt to loosen."
Everytime I buy a new toy whether it is a vehicle, motorbike, electrical equipment, or any mechanical machine I will try to obtain a copy of the OEM factory repair manual. I personally like to take care of what I own, and make it last in most cases past its life expectancy. I’ve personally seen so many trained mechanics, and DIY wrenchers that do not correctly follow torque specifications or tightening sequences pretty much ignore it.
Yes I do agree there are some bolts that do not require torquing and can simply be snugged, but would you want someone to just snug your wheel lugs back on? Majority of fasteners should be torque to the design engineer's original standards especially on an all aluminum masterpiece. :wink:
I was taught the importance of tourqing fasteners at an early age, and the importance of over, and under tightening fasteners in different materials. The design of contact surfaces between materials that have been thoroughly analyzed for stress, fatigue, strain, or thermal expansion. All that need to be fitted together within a certain degree of tightness and tolerance in order to successfully meet the design requirements set out. Lets face it your car took many very skilled Engineers & Experts years of R&D I thought the NSX was +10yrs in the making prior to 1991.
I saw a post about if the threads of the bolt were dry, oiled lubed for the torque procedure. Any lube will reduce the amount of friction between the threads, so less torque is needed to obtain the same clamping load. If I'm in doubt install the bolts with clean, dry threads as Honda used only the designated nuts and bolts coated with DACRO or DACRO + TORQUER. Right from the repair manual "DACRO finish can be identified by gray plating. Dacro finish bolts have a green coating on the thread section of the bolt for easier application. This type of bolt is called a "Torquer" bolt. Use of other types of nuts and bolts may cause electrolysis and corrosion, which in turn could cause the bolt to loosen."
Everytime I buy a new toy whether it is a vehicle, motorbike, electrical equipment, or any mechanical machine I will try to obtain a copy of the OEM factory repair manual. I personally like to take care of what I own, and make it last in most cases past its life expectancy. I’ve personally seen so many trained mechanics, and DIY wrenchers that do not correctly follow torque specifications or tightening sequences pretty much ignore it.
Yes I do agree there are some bolts that do not require torquing and can simply be snugged, but would you want someone to just snug your wheel lugs back on? Majority of fasteners should be torque to the design engineer's original standards especially on an all aluminum masterpiece. :wink:
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