Help! oil in coil pack

[Eclipsed]

car started running like crap a few weeks back. pulled the plugs and packs and found the rear passenger side cylinder (think its #6) coil pack and plug covered in oil. now im not burning and oil at all, and i did find that the rubber boot on the bottom of the coil pack was basically shot. it tore with almost no effort. so i cleaned everything up and repaired the coil pack and swapped in the coil pack from the #5 cylinder. car ran great again for about a week then started acting up again. pulled the packs and sure enough #6 was covered in oil again (not a lot but some). now this was a different coil pack then previously but again when i was cleaning
the oil off the coil pack the rubber boot on the bottom tore with almost no effort. i was told to replace the coil pack o-rings because that could cause this problem.

so is there any chance that oil in the coil pack could be caused by the rubber boots being shot or am i looking at a blown ring on cyl #6?

107k miles on car, original coil packs. have had valve adjustment, tb, wp, fuel filter, regular oil changes, dont race the car at all. new plugs.

 

[EdinKali]

I would guess that you have a leaking valve cover gasket that is allowing oil to seep down into the spark plug cavity.

 

[pgilliam1]

If the spark plug is tight, there's no way for oil to come up through the cylinder. So it's likely draining from above, probably through the valve cover gasket (especially since you just had the valves adjusted - the gasket was probably installed incorrectly or torn). Start there, it's an easy fix. Happy Motoring!

 

[NSXclear]

Check the tube seals. They could've unseated when trying to put the valve covers back on or they might have installed them backwards.

If they weren't changed during the valve adjustment, then change them now.

 

[Eclipsed]

Check the tube seals. They could've unseated when trying to put the valve covers back on or they might have installed them backwards.

If they weren't changed during the valve adjustment, then change them now.

Well I watched them do the valve adjustment, and nothing was replaced during that part of the maintenance. However I do believe i've found the problem. Not sure if it's where I live, lack of driving the car, or the fact i'm running on 20 year old OEM coil packs, but it appears that almost all of the rubber boots that seal around the spark plugs have basically rotted. Also ohm'ing them out they are averaging anywhere from 1.0 to 1.2, so I ordered some replacements this morning.

Apologies on the lack of grammer on my initial post, i made it from my cell phone.

By chance can someone post a part number or reference to the tube seals? So i can get those ordered.

If the spark plug is tight, there's no way for oil to come up through the cylinder. So it's likely draining from above, probably through the valve cover gasket (especially since you just had the valves adjusted - the gasket was probably installed incorrectly or torn). Start there, it's an easy fix. Happy Motoring!

I had the timing belt, water pump, timing belt tensioner, valve adjustment, spark plugs, thermostat, gaskets (OEM gaskets and Hondabond sealer), brakes, and tires done all at the same time last summer, around may time frame. However, i did have to take it to another shop to get the timing re-set (long story but the initial shop i took it to was a friends and I was trying to help him out, bad idea)

 

[NSXclear]

I can't imagine why they did the valve cover gaskets and didn't replace the tube seals. You better check if they replace the rubber grommets on the nuts that hold down the valve covers.

Tube seal part number Qty (6): 12343-PR7-A00 GASKET B, HEAD COVER $2.53

Rubber Washer grommets Qty (12): 022 90442-PR7-A00 WASHER, HEAD COVER $4.43

 

[Eclipsed]

I can't imagine why they did the valve cover gaskets and didn't replace the tube seals. You better check if they replace the rubber grommets on the nuts that hold down the valve covers.

Tube seal part number Qty (6): 12343-PR7-A00 GASKET B, HEAD COVER $2.53

Rubber Washer grommets Qty (12): 022 90442-PR7-A00 WASHER, HEAD COVER $4.43

ya i got to digging around acuraoemparts.com and found them. I'm gonna order new valve cover gaskets, tube seals, and washers this week and replace them all while im swapping the coil packs. Just wish it was 115 for the next 2 weeks here, heat is killing me.

 

[NSXclear]

If your replacing all those parts, there is a kit number you can get instead. It's the same price. It just make ordering a little easier because it has only one part number.

You migh want to get the gasket that covers the cam sprocket area also. That is a seperate part number than the kit, I think.

 

[ftuhy]

Be careful when re-installing the valve covers. When working them around various objects, its easy to fold over the edge of one (or more) or the tube seals and cause an oil leak. I worked on a Prime member's car and found that exact problem, with the same puddle of oil you found. A dealer had done a valve adjustment less than 10k mi earlier.:frown:

If you are really anal (like me) use a dental mirror and shine a flashlight down each tube to check the seal before you begin to install the nuts.

If the rubber boots on the coil packs have seriously deteriorated, the resistance value of the coil packs is irrelevant. The coils in the pack are OK, but the voltage is arcing to the covers, etc because the boot insulation is no longer effective. You did the right thing buying new packs.:wink:

The gasket set (one side) with tube seals and washers is 12030-PR7-010.

As to the seal to the timing belt cover, that just keeps out dust. There's no oil in that area. As long as the seal is flexible, rub some silicon grease into it. That will help preserve it and make it very easy to insert back in place.

 

[Eclipsed]

Be careful when re-installing the valve covers. When working them around various objects, its easy to fold over the edge of one (or more) or the tube seals and cause an oil leak. I worked on a Prime member's car and found that exact problem, with the same puddle of oil you found. A dealer had done a valve adjustment less than 10k mi earlier.:frown:

If you are really anal (like me) use a dental mirror and shine a flashlight down each tube to check the seal before you begin to install the nuts.

If the rubber boots on the coil packs have seriously deteriorated, the resistance value of the coil packs is irrelevant. The coils in the pack are OK, but the voltage is arcing to the covers, etc because the boot insulation is no longer effective. You did the right thing buying new packs.:wink:

The gasket set (one side) with tube seals and washers is 12030-PR7-010.

As to the seal to the timing belt cover, that just keeps out dust. There's no oil in that area. As long as the seal is flexible, rub some silicon grease into it. That will help preserve it and make it very easy to insert back in place.

Hit the nail on the head with this one, ordered some coil packs from umbrella, amazingly enough the acura dealer here in wichita kansas actually had every gasket i needed sitting on the shelf so i will pick those up after work today. And ya i'm very very anal about my nsx, it figures it's the rear head that is having the problem too, couldnt be the front head near the firewall thats easy to work on. Oh well at least I have it all figured out, talked to the wife and she gave me the go ahead to go ahead and start fixing all the little things wrong on my car since i'm trying to sell it, like the upper windshield trim and i'm missing the top off one of my window switches, and i need a new a/c idler pulley.

Oh well at least I know it's nothing major and it's something easily, and cheapily fixed, as opposed to having to rebuild the whole motor.

Thanks for all the help gang!

 

[ftuhy]

and i need a new a/c idler pulley.

I recently found a hint on Prime on the A/C idler pulley. Just change out the bearing. Check this bearing out at a local auto parts store. If they don't have it, they probably have a cross reference to another brand.
A/C tensioner pulley bearing NTN part number 6203LLBC3/2AS
($8 instead of $80 for a new tensioner)

 

[Eclipsed]

Yep sure enough pulled off the valve cover last night and found this. Had to have happened when I took it in to get the timing belt changed. Normally I do all my own maintenance but with the nsx i've usually taken it to shops, i think for now on i'll be doing the maintenance on it as well. I'm assuming the shop snagged the tube seal on the head stud when putting it back on, not that i'm pointing fingers at the shop, it is a PITA getting the rear valve cover back on. Took me and my brother about an hour to get it back in. Stupid metal clip that bolts the wiring harness to the valve cover kept getting hung up on the cam gear cover.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

12030-PR7-010 complete VC Gasket set:
(6) Washers
(1) Gasket
(3) Spark plug seals.

You will need one per headcover.

Also a good check iF the spark plug gaskets are in place is once you have installed the cover stick you finger into the opening and feel the edge of the seal, all the way around the hole. You can easily feel the edge of the seal and know they are in place.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[Eclipsed]

12030-PR7-010 complete VC Gasket set:
(6) Washers
(1) Gasket
(3) Spark plug seals.

You will need one per headcover.

Also a good check iF the spark plug gaskets are in place is once you have installed the cover stick you finger into the opening and feel the edge of the seal, all the way around the hole. You can easily feel the edge of the seal and know they are in place.

HTH,
LarryB

Ya i replaced them all last night, and did the finger check on the plug seals.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Ya i replaced them all last night, and did the finger check on the plug seals.

mmm..."finger check"

Also known as the "Finger Test" Very universal diagnostic tool

Regards,
LarryB

 

[ATERPAK]

Do you need to be an OB GYN specialist for that test? :tongue:

Al