Heated Garage??

[Runutzzzzz]

I'm building a new house and I want a ac/heated garage. The builder says that it is against code to tie into the houses ac/heat, which I can understand. Does everyone else just add a 4th zone just for the garage?

Thanks
Robert

 

[steveny]

I am confused. Is it within code to use the same heat source and add an additional zone. If you were using a hot water boiler at which point it would mix with the same water that is heating the house. If you are using forced air I could see the point of not wanting a cold air return. As an example at some point the air would have to circulate back through the system may pull exhaust fumes back into the house. Those fumes would then be distributed back into the living space. If the garage heat has to be "separate" you would have to use two separate heat sources. If that is the case I would just put in electric base board unless money is no object. Then I would build a 8 car garage with its own heating system, hydro-thermal for sure. That way when I lay on the floor to detail the underside of my NSX the floor would be nice and toasty.

 

[Runutzzzzz]

It is a forced system, they say it's a safety issue, gas/co. I'm wondering if anyone else had any other ideas because I'd like to have a/c also.

Originally posted by steveny:
I am confused. Is it within code to use the same heat source and add an additional zone. If you were using a hot water boiler at which point it would mix with the same water that is heating the house. If you are using forced air I could see the point of not wanting a cold air return. As an example at some point the air would have to circulate back through the system may pull exhaust fumes back into the house. Those fumes would then be distributed back into the living space. If the garage heat has to be "separate" you would have to use two separate heat sources. If that is the case I would just put in electric base board unless money is no object. Then I would build a 8 car garage with its own heating system, hydro-thermal for sure. That way when I lay on the floor to detail the underside of my NSX the floor would be nice and toasty.

 

[Spencer]

I'm guessing your part of Virginia is similar to the climate here in Seattle. At least for Winter heating...my solution was to locate the main gas heater for the entire house into the garage itself (on a common wall). This meets code requirements (subject to a minimum height off the floor)...and even though it's an efficient burner, it throws off enough waste heat, such that it's extremely comfortable even in the the dead of Winter. (This assumes an attached, insulated garage and insulated doors). Summer...that's a whole 'nother story, we don't have any humidity here.

 

[steveny]

Originally posted by Spencer:
I'm guessing your part of Virginia is similar to the climate here in Seattle. At least for Winter heating...my solution was to locate the main gas heater for the entire house into the garage itself (on a common wall). This meets code requirements (subject to a minimum height off the floor)...and even though it's an efficient burner, it throws off enough waste heat, such that it's extremely comfortable even in the the dead of Winter. (This assumes an attached, insulated garage and insulated doors). Summer...that's a whole 'nother story, we don't have any humidity here.

Make sure it is a sealed unit that only uses return air from the house mixed with fresh outside air. I am sure you do not want to pull exhaust fumes out of the garage and then feed them into the house. Be very careful. Some building codes are in place for your safety. I also e mailed you another solution.

 

[Spencer]

No kidding. Obviously, the cold air returns are located in the living space of the house, not in the garage where carbon monoxide occurs, and goes without saying that the system is 'sealed' -- what I AM saying though, is if the heat exchanger is located in a common wall of the garage, it meets code requirements (here at least), and the waste heat will keep the typical garage located in a mild climate comfortable all year long -- FOR FREE. Mine has been this way for 10 years, and there is no physical way for carbon monoxide to enter the living space.

 

[steveny]

Originally posted by Spencer:
No kidding. Obviously, the cold air returns are located in the living space of the house, not in the garage where carbon monoxide occurs, and goes without saying that the system is 'sealed' -- what I AM saying though, is if the heat exchanger is located in a common wall of the garage, it meets code requirements (here at least), and the waste heat will keep the typical garage located in a mild climate comfortable all year long -- FOR FREE. Mine has been this way for 10 years, and there is no physical way for carbon monoxide to enter the living space.

You know this and I know this. I was only trying to make sure he knew as well that's all. BTW in NY if you install the heating unit in a garage you must place pylons around the unit to insure it will not be run into with a vehicle.

 

[hejo]

I have heat and ac in my garage. My house was the model home and they used the garage for the office. Basically I have completely separate units for the garage. The ac unit is located outside next to the other 2 units and the heater is located in the attic above the garage separated and closed off from the rest of the attic.

If you can't do this then I would go down to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up an electric oil based space heater. Here's the one I used: http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=249077-33454-MG15T

For AC buy a window unit that supports the sqft you in the garage. Like this: http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=183166-000022085-AF05CML

Also you really want to make sure you garage sealed well but.... make sure you're bring in fresh air to cycle out the fumes. Also there are recirculators that you can put on to cycle the air in the room with fresh.

 

[ak]

Don't forget to add a drainage so you can wash your car indoor during the winter!

 

[MiamieNeSeX]

The whole code issue is that you should not use return air containing combustibles. We just completed a 6 car garage for a client where we installed seperate systems and it is running using 100% outside air, not very efficient but it meets the mechanical/safety codes here in Florida and it works, the only draw back is that you have to compensate by increasing both the cooling and heating capacity..

------------------
White 1992
Dali Intake,
Dali Sway Bars,
H & R Springs,
Slotted Rotors,
Comptech Exhaust,
BBSC

 

[jorligan]

If you have natural gas, then you could use one of the new ventless high efficiency units which simply mount into the wall for your heating needs. Little space and it works well. Put one into my friends place without any code issues. For AC, have them put in a high space for a window unit and permanently mount the unit. This seems a lot cheaper than a full separate system.

We had an addition put on a couple of years ago and there is a 3 car garage under a family room. We had to have a separate system put in for the room because of the additional cubic feet (10K). They located the system in the garage in its own separate sealed space about 4 feet off of the floor. All of the ducts run in the floor and it would be really easy to cut into the ducts simply to blow air into the space. I haven't done this since the temp in the garage during the summer with 100 degrees outside is around 80-85 until I open the doors and during the winter, I can use a portable electric heater if I want to work on the cars. Maybe one of the gas heaters in the future.

 

[jorligan]

Forgot, the 3 car garage is at the level of our basement in a walkout. I think that this is why it remains so cool during the summer.

 

[DanO]

For heat i've found that the Sterling unit below, which is rated for garage use, has preformed quite well and it is low profile enough to be ceiling mounted and not look ugly or get in the way. For A/C, I have seen small in-wall units with remote exchangers-these units are popular in computer rooms--not sure about manufacture names but this unit is kind of what i'm talking about www.abako.co.uk/awr_151822_model.html

I keep my garage at 60f during the winter and boost it a bit if I'm doing some wrenching; it has plenty of BTUs so setting the garage to a desired temperature is never an issue.

This is a Sterling Model "RF" which is Residential Garage Certified.
heater specs: www.sterlinghvac.com/litlibrary/LPRFM-4.pdf

[This message has been edited by DanO (edited 21 December 2002).]

 

[huckster]

anybody here do the heated floor thing? how well does that really work? Im thinking about building in the near future. Is this an effective option for heat???