Gravity Bleeding....as we speak.

[stuntman]

Actually I am refering to street driven cars mostly. The track folks, just like you, are always diligent and keep there fluid changed quite often. This are from modtly the folks that when you say: "When did you last change you brake fluid?", they say: "not sure"

In your case, if the fluid was old originally, luck is on your side.

Regards,
LarryB

While people who track and maintain their cars better tend to flush their brake fluid often; but:

How could the original brake fluid in a car with 100-200K miles be beneficial? How would it reduce the chances of dirt buildup on the inner bore of a master cylinder from ruining the seal when pressing the brake pedal to the floor for the first time (probably ever) in the cars history when bleeding it for the first time for track use?

 

[MetalSpikeRacing]

Ok, well I just ordered the master cylinder.

Larry, could you please explain how the bench bleeding is done?

I will aprecciate that.

Nevermind,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGVnS4BetlA&p=39F98D4731DED3B9&playnext=1&index=13


-MSR

 

[Larry Bastanza]

While people who track and maintain their cars better tend to flush their brake fluid often; but:

How could the original brake fluid in a car with 100-200K miles be beneficial? How would it reduce the chances of dirt buildup on the inner bore of a master cylinder from ruining the seal when pressing the brake pedal to the floor for the first time (probably ever) in the cars history when bleeding it for the first time for track use?

My wording was not that clear, I was joking if you did not have a problem at 100K miles with old fluid, you got lucky it did not cause the issue.

Regards,
LarryB

 

[MetalSpikeRacing]

Ok, this is freaking stupid!!!

I replace the master cylinder yesterday afternoon and spent a total of five hours last night trying to bleed the system, and still felt like garbage.

Tonight I went out thinking that I was close to get all the air out and I was wrong, I started at around eight o'clock, is now eleven thirty and they feel just as they felt last night!!!

They will almost get stiff/spongy and then they go down to almost half, There is still lots of tiny bubles coming from the left rear and from the inner right front (stoptech*) and they dont seem to stop!!!!

There would be no bubles for about 12-16 pumps and the then there start appering again!!

I did not use the bench bleeding technique because I did not have the fitting for master, is it normal that is taking this long to bleed.

I had teflon tape around the Speed bleeders so they dont leak, but just to make sure they werent pulling air, I re-tape them again.

Brakes get stiff when the car is not running, as soon as I turn it on the pedal just go soft.

Could the problem be related to the brake booster? I can hear it whistling when I press the pedal to bleed, But I thoght that was normal.

Thanks for the help guys, I really need it.

-MSR

 

[warrenw]

Ok, this is freaking stupid!!!

I replace the master cylinder yesterday afternoon and spent a total of five hours last night trying to bleed the system, and still felt like garbage.

Tonight I went out thinking that I was close to get all the air out and I was wrong, I started at around eight o'clock, is now eleven thirty and they feel just as they felt last night!!!

They will almost get stiff/spongy and then they go down to almost half, There is still lots of tiny bubles coming from the left rear and from the inner right front (stoptech*) and they dont seem to stop!!!!

There would be no bubles for about 12-16 pumps and the then there start appering again!!

I did not use the bench bleeding technique because I did not have the fitting for master, is it normal that is taking this long to bleed.

I had teflon tape around the Speed bleeders so they dont leak, but just to make sure they werent pulling air, I re-tape them again.

Brakes get stiff when the car is not running, as soon as I turn it on the pedal just go soft.

Could the problem be related to the brake booster? I can hear it whistling when I press the pedal to bleed, But I thoght that was normal.

Thanks for the help guys, I really need it.

-MSR

First, did you get the rubber seal in place between the master and the vacuum booster? This may be the cause of the whistling...

I had a similar issue. I thought I did something wrong.
Start the car, allow the vacuum to build up, pump the brake until firm, let the car run, let vacuum build again, repeat from the start.

Now bleed the breaks again.
This may help.

 

[MetalSpikeRacing]

Yeah, the seal us there between the master and the booster, brand new it came with the new master.

I did let the car run for a bit and kept pumping but still very smushy.

I guess the question is, does there supposed to be that much air in the lines?
The LR and inner FR just have so much air in them while the other ones don't seem to have any air in them.

I am starting to think there was nothing wrong with my original master to beging with!!

 

[MetalSpikeRacing]

Still bleeding, still the same.

some light guys, please.

-MSR

 

[FogCityNSX]

Have you tried a pressure bleeder yet?

The one I built is for in master cylinder and out the slave/caliper but a simple adapter and it can be used for reverse bleeding in the slave/caliper and out the master cylinder.

No more stinking pumping for me. Cost a whole ~$25

 

[MetalSpikeRacing]

Ok, Finally!!! the brakes are track worthy. kind of.. They could be a little more stiffer but I will do that later sometime.

Thanks for the help guys, I cant even tell you what the problem was I just kept bleeding. and this morning I put the wheels on and decided to go for a drive, and the brakes were fine.

-MSR