Gran Turismo 6 - December 6, 2013 on PS3

Haven't tried the M4 yet, but it sure is a pretty car. I think I found the "golden" tune for the 91 NSX when running with stockish horsepower... it drives like perfection.

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I think, though, that I'm giong to have to get creative with this game. In GT3, I used to limit myself to a certain number of cars at a time. I could never own, for example, more than 10 cars at a time. If I needed another one for a race and already had my 10, I'd have to sell one. It really brought a certain level of challenge to the game, and I tended to keep one or two "throw away" cars that received very little in terms of modifications or investments. This game incorporates a performance point limit which helps to maintain the challenge level, but I think I might need somewhat more "challenge" than just a performance point limit (which is ususally way higher than necessary for a veteran player).

On my second playthrough, I may do it without putting a single mile on any NSX. I can also see a playthrough using only a single manufacturer except where an event forces a certain car/mfr, or using only cars from a certain continent or country (again, other than the races that require specifics). Just to add some challenge to the game and expand my experience overall with various cars.
 
Coming to GT6 this week as a free download, the just announced Toyota FT-1 Concept! This week's update is also said to include an interior for the M4 Concept.


BTW, I found that I had to enable SRF to earn the gold on the M4 and one other Seasonal Challenge. That seems so wrong. I NEVER enable SRF. I tried the M4 in other races and didn't have any problems driving it with SRF off.
 
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The Toyota reminds me of the old Supra with the body lines.
 
I'm already bored with my PS4 because there are no games out yet....... blah.
 
That's probably what they're going for. It looks like it's off to a good start, but I hope they tone it down a bit for the final release of the actual car.

I agree. There is a lot going on with the body lines.
 
The update went live last night, but crashed my PS3 twice.

I ended up deleting the GT6 Game Data. Once I did this, the update proceeded without further issue. Grabbed the FT-1 and another M4. I also finally bought the Acura NSX Concept so I could give it a try. Felt pretty good..

Apparently the latest update tweaks the MR cars handling. I haven't had a chance to check THAT out yet...crossing fingers that the tweaks didn't ruin what I liked about it.

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Well, at least Polyphony knows about the crash on update issue: http://www.gran-turismo.com/us/news/00_3266694.html
 
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The update went live last night, but crashed my PS3 twice.

I ended up deleting the GT6 Game Data. Once I did this, the update proceeded without further issue. Grabbed the FT-1 and another M4. I also finally bought the Acura NSX Concept so I could give it a try. Felt pretty good..

Apparently the latest update tweaks the MR cars handling. I haven't had a chance to check THAT out yet...crossing fingers that the tweaks didn't ruin what I liked about it.

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Well, at least Polyphony knows about the crash on update issue: http://www.gran-turismo.com/us/news/00_3266694.html

Interesting on the MR cars handling... I'm not sure I noticed a difference... (?) Here's a set up you can try for the 91 NSX built all the way to full tilt:

451 HP
1117 KG
Flat Floors Installed (No rear wing, no aero kit)
Wheels +1 Inch (not sure if this matters or not)
Sports Soft Tire.

Suspension
Ride height: 100/100
Springs: 10.40/9.60
Compression: 5/4
Expansion: 4/3
Sway Bars: 2/1
Camber: 0/0
Toe: 0/0.22

(All other adjustable parts are stock: Diff, Transmission, Brake Balance, Ballast, Nitrous Oxide not used)

I like to use Deep Forest as my proving ground. I ran four consecutive laps with this car, each one getting faster. The first was 1:23.xxx; the fourth was 1:18.891 using DualShock controller. I'd be interested if anyone has any tweaks to make it better/faster.
 
Interesting on the MR cars handling... I'm not sure I noticed a difference... (?) Here's a set up you can try for the 91 NSX built all the way to full tilt:

451 HP
1117 KG
Flat Floors Installed (No rear wing, no aero kit)
Wheels +1 Inch (not sure if this matters or not)
Sports Soft Tire.

Suspension
Ride height: 100/100
Springs: 10.40/9.60
Compression: 5/4
Expansion: 4/3
Sway Bars: 2/1
Camber: 0/0
Toe: 0/0.22

(All other adjustable parts are stock: Diff, Transmission, Brake Balance, Ballast, Nitrous Oxide not used)

I like to use Deep Forest as my proving ground. I ran four consecutive laps with this car, each one getting faster. The first was 1:23.xxx; the fourth was 1:18.891 using DualShock controller. I'd be interested if anyone has any tweaks to make it better/faster.

I'm going to try this setup tonight. Do you have ASM or Skid Recovery Force on? I noticed once I increased the power the car was really hard to control once the rear stepped out. Basically had to drive with ASM on all the time. Hoping this setup will allow me to turn it off.
 
I'm going to try this setup tonight. Do you have ASM or Skid Recovery Force on? I noticed once I increased the power the car was really hard to control once the rear stepped out. Basically had to drive with ASM on all the time. Hoping this setup will allow me to turn it off.

No one should ever have Skid Recovery Force on...it is an artificial version of traction control, specifically targeting players who have difficulty keeping the cars on the road. Of course, I mentioned in an earlier post that I had to have SRF on to get the gold in a couple of the seasonals. For most time trials, they do not allow you to turn this feature on.

I usually disable all assists, but I leave ABS at 1.

I have been using far more aggressive settings with my NSX, but haven't had the time to actually run laps, tweak settings, and see what works best for me.

I did one race in the NSX this morning and I have a feeling the tweaks made to MR handling are keeping my car more planted given that my settings have NOT changed. As I mentioned before, I didn't have any real issue with the MR handling before the update....but my NSX now feels more comparable to the way the stock Ferrari 458 felt before the update (more planted, less tail happy).
 
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Sorry this may be off topic, but has anyone tried the "PC version pf GT6"?

I know it's a hack, but I don't have PS3 or 4. I was all ready to buy a PS4, but then found out GT6 will not run on it. Can't bring myself to buy PS3 just for one game....
 
You can wait for it to release on ps4 but I heard from a friend that you have to pay for online on the 4.. (don't quote me as I'm not 100% sure) I would steer clear of the PC vr. If you plan to play ps4 a lot then the online fee won't matter but if you play once in a while, the free online on the ps3 will be a benefit -- Assuming that they don't end up changing the terms for ps3 network.
 
You do need to pay for online access on the PS4. I knew that when I bought it and quite frankly welcomed it assuming it would improve servers due to a revenue stream. THEN I found out that you need to pay the $49.95 for every PS Network profile. So basically if you have 4 kids (all of whom of course want there own profile due to the stats) you need to pay $49.95 per year for each. Now that is wrong IMHO...

Also note, at least in Battlefield for the PS4, the server issues could not be worse. I think it may be the case that the servers are owned by the game companies so the $49 is not going to them, it's going to Sony (I do assume a percentage goes to the game company but don't know). My PS4 experience has been costly and it frankly has me considering dropping back to a PS3.
 
I don't understand that pricing. It's like Sony had a 'mind-blown' situation at how Xbox live didn't deter potential customers and decided to innovate on their network. I solely thought the payments were to allow the PlayStation network to sever it's weaknesses on servers.
Regardless, I was wondering if anyone would be interested in GT6 gatherings on the weekend to have some variable time/weather races // limited PP. If we end up having enough people who are interested we can make a thread on a tournament style of 5 races over 5 weeks utilizing GT6's point system. Food for thought.
 
Huh?? Are you talking about PSN+??
 
I'm going to try this setup tonight. Do you have ASM or Skid Recovery Force on? I noticed once I increased the power the car was really hard to control once the rear stepped out. Basically had to drive with ASM on all the time. Hoping this setup will allow me to turn it off.

Sorry about that! :redface: Like Akira3D, I run with all assists off (ABS at 1, as when set to 0, you might as well just not play the game... cars go nuts at full braking).

Also, when you have trouble keeping the tail end tucked in, I've found that for me, turning up the initial torque and or acceleration on the limited slip is the best way to correct that problem on the (91) NSX. Messing with the suspension will cause other issues like reduced traction for acceleration and braking, or faster tire consumption in exchange for more cornering control.

I have been using far more aggressive settings with my NSX, but haven't had the time to actually run laps, tweak settings, and see what works best for me.

Interesting. This, to me, is the most enjoyable aspect of GT. Once I have a good set up, I use that car for as many races as it's allowed in. When I need other cars (such as for the FR challenge or Classic sports, etc...), I go through the process with the appropriate car all over again. I try to use a few mods as possible to make the car just fast enough to compete with the AI cars/drivers, increasing horsepower as little as possible. My fully built NSX is meant to compete with the likes of ZR1s and 458s, but haven't run her against those cars yet.
 
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Interesting. This, to me, is the most enjoyable aspect of GT. Once I have a good set up, I use that car for as many races as it's allowed in. When I need other cars (such as for the FR challenge or Classic sports, etc...), I go through the process with the appropriate car all over again.

Don't get me wrong, that's my approach too...though I try to do this process with prize cars. I'm always curious to see how much of the game can be played without spending ANY credits. The boost in credits for seasonal events over the holiday season perhaps made it too easy to advance quickly in the game as I bought the '91 NSX long before I needed its level of performance...and certainly wouldn't have done so had I known you'd eventually be awarded one. I didn't even have to spend credits on modifying it for awhile.

I'm not enough of a gear head to get the most out of the full custom settings...just usually drop the ride height, increase the stiffness and camber, tweak the overall gear ratios, increase downforce, reduce weight. What I was trying to say with my previous post about "aggressive settings" is that, by now, my NSX is pretty much maxed out (i.e. tweaking the settings higher will make the car undriveable) and I simply haven't had a chance to do time trial laps to see if dialing back the settings actually make me faster. I use the A B C settings all time to configure a car for specific PP restrictions (I usually reserve A for current event restrictions - typically opting to reduce power rather than add weight to meet PP restrictions, B for peak performance, and C for near-stock). I'm eager for a "copy current settings" option...would help a lot when managing the performance sheets.

Did you get the trophy for David and Goliath ( Win a race with a PP limit of 620 or more in a car with at least 100 PP fewer than the race limit ) yet?
 
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Just an FYI,

If anyone is looking for the "Hidden Gem" trophy, it is on the Mount Panorama map. Keep driving straight off the course into the runoff area on the straight before the left hander onto the start finish straight. Behind one of the barriers is a set of blue tires. Knock them over to earn the trophy
 
I am so tired of exiting the replay screen and having to back out of 3 or 4 menus to get back to selecting a new track. Other than that, enjoying it so far. Finally gave my son his playseat. He got frustrated with it and wanted to go back to the controller until his little sister started beating him when she used the seat. I told him it's way faster than a regular controller once you get used to it (ok, i lied). When he asked why, I explained because on the controller, the throttle and brake are either on or off, on the seat you have much better control. He's now a convert, doesn't want to use the controller at all. Now I just need to get him off of flooring it and running circles around Indy and Daytona.

Actually one other complaint is the manual shifter on the G27, I keep finding myself in neutral so often when I do a quick shift, I feel like I have to use the paddles because I always screw up multiple shifts in a race. I read this happens in GT5 as well and it's a big sore spot for many. If you miss, you have to shift into neutral then back into gear.
 
Don't get me wrong, that's my approach too...though I try to do this process with prize cars. I'm always curious to see how much of the game can be played without spending ANY credits. The boost in credits for seasonal events over the holiday season perhaps made it too easy to advance quickly in the game as I bought the '91 NSX long before I needed its level of performance...and certainly wouldn't have done so had I known you'd eventually be awarded one. I didn't even have to spend credits on modifying it for awhile.

I'm not enough of a gear head to get the most out of the full custom settings...just usually drop the ride height, increase the stiffness and camber, tweak the overall gear ratios, increase downforce, reduce weight. What I was trying to say with my previous post about "aggressive settings" is that, by now, my NSX is pretty much maxed out (i.e. tweaking the settings higher will make the car undriveable) and I simply haven't had a chance to do time trial laps to see if dialing back the settings actually make me faster. I use the A B C settings all time to configure a car for specific PP restrictions (I usually reserve A for current event restrictions - typically opting to reduce power rather than add weight to meet PP restrictions, B for peak performance, and C for near-stock). I'm eager for a "copy current settings" option...would help a lot when managing the performance sheets.

Did you get the trophy for David and Goliath ( Win a race with a PP limit of 620 or more in a car with at least 100 PP fewer than the race limit ) yet?

No, I have not earned that trophy, but I do believe I can get it (especially with an NSX, since that car, specifically, seems to defy PP ratings, performing well above the actual "math" that the game uses to assign PP). But, as of yet, I have not entered any races with a 620 PP limit.

As for reducing power instead of adding weight, I agree: adding weight is my last resort, though I am "sneaky" about improving speed by adding mods that increase performance without affecting the PP calculation (clutch/flywheel, driveshaft, brakes etc).

When it comes to transmission tuning (a component I don't usually need to to get too detailed about, but it is very helpful in the really fast races, such as F1, etc), I like to find which gears I use the most on the specific track and set them appropriately (for example, if there are a lot of hairpins, I will make 2nd gear taller so that I don't hit the rev limiter right as I'm exiting a corner). On tracks with long straights (Sarthe), I make the lower gears as tall as possible, with the higher gears closer together so that there is more torque available when accelerating beyond 150 mph. For example, 3rd would be very tall, 4th and 5th gears would be a bit shorter, while 6th gear would be set to max out as high (lower number) as possible within the car's ability to overcome wind resistance. Sometimes you'll find that shifting into 6th will actually cause the car to lose speed as the reduced torque multiplication is not enough to continue to overcome the wall of air, so it turns out that "top speed" is achieved in 5th, effectively wasting 6th gear.

You mentioned turning up the camber, but that's one setting I don't like to mess with much (if at all) if the car is already manageable. I find that a mild increase in (-) camber can help on some of the old muscle cars which are engineered with less insight into actual road course performance, but on any real sports car, I find that tweaking the camber costs me too much in acceleration and braking to be justified for lapping a track.

When power starts getting really high, though, I do like to increase the rear toe-in a smidge at a time, but again, due to reduced acceleration and braking, I try to keep those adjustments as small as possible.

Anyway, just some thoughts from a "gear head" in case it helps you streamline your experimentation. :)
 
^^^ Wow, you are really into the game, I would have never thought to change those settings like that. Great thinking. Thanks for the tips.
 
^^^ Wow, you are really into the game, I would have never thought to change those settings like that. Great thinking. Thanks for the tips.

:redface:
Most of that stuff I learned years ago with GT3 when I had time to play video games all day long. Now I spend maybe 2-3 hours a week playing GT6...
 
Anyone catch this last night?

Apparently there will be more about this Zahara-El Gastor Reservoir circuit (speculation on GTPlanet suggests that this relates to the Ronda location in the upcoming Course Maker feature) in a few days at the Tapei Game Show.
 
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