Screw them. Try getting your car insurance through Costco wholesale. I found by far the best rates through them. You can apply online through Costco.com. They really are lower than all these others. Insurance companies always quote a low rate then raise it on you through time. This is STANDARD practice. If you want to keep rates low with a good company, Costco keeps tabs on their providers.
Geico Just Cancelled Me
- Thread starter turbolence46
- Start date
Screw them. Try getting your car insurance through Costco wholesale. I found by far the best rates through them. You can apply online through Costco.com. They really are lower than all these others. Insurance companies always quote a low rate then raise it on you through time. This is STANDARD practice. If you want to keep rates low with a good company, Costco keeps tabs on their providers.
Id say more like facebook if anything.
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Are you on facebook/nsx prime?
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Are you on facebook/nsx prime?
Hi Geico, I'm NA.
thanks,
thanks,
So am I! And I have in no way modified my NSX from stock in any way. :wink:
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^ :biggrin:
One possible way that Geico could have found out is running a vin record on your car. If it was purchased/sold through an internet posting and had the supercharger posted in its posting, they now know.
Having had Geico and working for another company that claims their "hands" help all are low rate/low service carriers.
I have/had all my cars/motorcycles for the last 10 years with state farm for a few simple reasons. SF will not hassel you for new parts or try to find used parts to say $5.00 on a part. Their claims reps don't have to worry about their boss's hasseling them over every single estimate they write. My agent and every claim rep I have dealth with have always done their best to have my claims handled asap. I totalled my Honda CBR with 600 miles and when I bought another one, the rate was $1.00 more. One of my previous cars had $20k worth of hail damage and all my parts came from Germany with no issues.
With the "bargin" insurance company. Be aware that they will search all the dismantler yards county wide to find you a used part before putting an oem part on your car, they will raise your rates for claim frequency, even its not your fault or they had to pay out anything in the claim.
Also I have Grundy for my NSX bc of the agreed value and that its my garage car.
Hope my post helped
Having had Geico and working for another company that claims their "hands" help all are low rate/low service carriers.
I have/had all my cars/motorcycles for the last 10 years with state farm for a few simple reasons. SF will not hassel you for new parts or try to find used parts to say $5.00 on a part. Their claims reps don't have to worry about their boss's hasseling them over every single estimate they write. My agent and every claim rep I have dealth with have always done their best to have my claims handled asap. I totalled my Honda CBR with 600 miles and when I bought another one, the rate was $1.00 more. One of my previous cars had $20k worth of hail damage and all my parts came from Germany with no issues.
With the "bargin" insurance company. Be aware that they will search all the dismantler yards county wide to find you a used part before putting an oem part on your car, they will raise your rates for claim frequency, even its not your fault or they had to pay out anything in the claim.
Also I have Grundy for my NSX bc of the agreed value and that its my garage car.
Hope my post helped
Hi, I have an insurance license in 47 states and have been in the industry ~8 years on the personal insurance side (home & auto primarily).
1) Most of the time when you hear of people seemingly inexplicably being cancelled for reasons like "overdue for an accident" or underwriters digging hard enough to find a performance modification, it's usually because the company has decided it's over exposed in your particular market and they're using any excuse to thin their book of business in a particular area or with a particular segment of customer.
So Geico's actuaries decide they've taken a bath on one too many collector/limited production car.....well, time to see what they can get off the books, and they go fishing.
2) The Hagerty / Grundy approach will get you the most effective coverage if you are ok with the mileage limitations. While you can't just arbitrarily invent an agreed value for your car...(e.g. I couldn't insure my 1992 with 243,000 miles on it for $100,000 just because I was willing to pay the premium), if you can reasonably defend the value to replace your car with like condition/mileage along with mods, then there shouldn't be a problem.
Some other companies will do a "stated amount"...but that's not the same as "agreed value". Careful with that terminology.
3) The truth is there is no such thing as blanket insurance advice regarding "which company". The reason there are so many companies is that each of their underwriting, pricing, and marketing practices are different and each are strongest with some specific subset of customers. Safe Auto will sell you a hella-cheap minimum limit policy because you have no money, but I don't even know if they would offer a $half million limit. Progressive has a price for nearly anyone, "Is your car on fire outside right now?? No? Ok, here's a rate". Chubb probably won't even answer the phone if you're talking less than half a million liability, but if you need to insure your $10m pseudo-castle they're your guys.
Which company is best for you for "normal" insurance (i.e. non-collector-car) will depend entirely on your credit score, driving record, location, and household composition (e.g. kids of driving age or not).
4) Generalizing some good insurance guidelines (not rules):
Get as much liability as the company offers, this is your CYA coverage against lawsuits
A higher collision deductible can save money on premium and only comes into play if an accident is your fault or shared-fault.
A lower comprehensive deductible may not cost much more to carry and can help with hail/glass/fire/animal-strike
Some companies may offer "full glass" coverage in some states/locales. This waives the comp deducible (or uses a much lower deductible) for chips/dings/replacement.
[edit]
Almost every company has a "racing" exclusion these days that they apply to policies that excludes track use. There are a handful that would cover damage at "school" events (no competition), you should ask your agent....without admitting to anything obviously...if your policy has such an exclusion. However there are companies that will offer HPDE coverage by the day with a supplemental policy.
1) Most of the time when you hear of people seemingly inexplicably being cancelled for reasons like "overdue for an accident" or underwriters digging hard enough to find a performance modification, it's usually because the company has decided it's over exposed in your particular market and they're using any excuse to thin their book of business in a particular area or with a particular segment of customer.
So Geico's actuaries decide they've taken a bath on one too many collector/limited production car.....well, time to see what they can get off the books, and they go fishing.
2) The Hagerty / Grundy approach will get you the most effective coverage if you are ok with the mileage limitations. While you can't just arbitrarily invent an agreed value for your car...(e.g. I couldn't insure my 1992 with 243,000 miles on it for $100,000 just because I was willing to pay the premium), if you can reasonably defend the value to replace your car with like condition/mileage along with mods, then there shouldn't be a problem.
Some other companies will do a "stated amount"...but that's not the same as "agreed value". Careful with that terminology.
3) The truth is there is no such thing as blanket insurance advice regarding "which company". The reason there are so many companies is that each of their underwriting, pricing, and marketing practices are different and each are strongest with some specific subset of customers. Safe Auto will sell you a hella-cheap minimum limit policy because you have no money, but I don't even know if they would offer a $half million limit. Progressive has a price for nearly anyone, "Is your car on fire outside right now?? No? Ok, here's a rate". Chubb probably won't even answer the phone if you're talking less than half a million liability, but if you need to insure your $10m pseudo-castle they're your guys.
Which company is best for you for "normal" insurance (i.e. non-collector-car) will depend entirely on your credit score, driving record, location, and household composition (e.g. kids of driving age or not).
4) Generalizing some good insurance guidelines (not rules):
Get as much liability as the company offers, this is your CYA coverage against lawsuits
A higher collision deductible can save money on premium and only comes into play if an accident is your fault or shared-fault.
A lower comprehensive deductible may not cost much more to carry and can help with hail/glass/fire/animal-strike
Some companies may offer "full glass" coverage in some states/locales. This waives the comp deducible (or uses a much lower deductible) for chips/dings/replacement.
[edit]
Almost every company has a "racing" exclusion these days that they apply to policies that excludes track use. There are a handful that would cover damage at "school" events (no competition), you should ask your agent....without admitting to anything obviously...if your policy has such an exclusion. However there are companies that will offer HPDE coverage by the day with a supplemental policy.
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Used Grundy on multiple NSX's - agreed value. Never had a claim to put them to the test though.
Here are two sources for ratings of auto insurance companies:
J. D. Powers
2013 Auto Insurance Purchase Experience
2012 U.S. Auto Claims Ratings
2012 US Auto Insurance Provider Ratings
Consumer Reports frequently publishes articles that include ratings of auto insurance companies; their most recent was in the June 2013 issue, which you should be able to find in your local public library.
Years ago I was insured with Allstate for a long time, and was very dissatisfied with the treatment and resolution of my claim when our car was totaled in 1987. I switched to State Farm, and have been extremely happy with their service in the 26 years since then (including their treatment and resolution when another car was totaled in 2011).
I have been a State Farm customer for over 30 yrs. Earlier this year, when my 91 NSX was totaled, they handled the claim within a few days and paid about twice the money I had in the car. Hell the difference allowed me to buy the 02 Imola that I never thought I would even be able to consider. Over the years they have replaced two roofs on my home that were damaged by our notorious Texas hail storms and I never had to call them for those claims. They just showed up looked at it and cut a check. Some insurance companies are like banks. The better your credit, the larger and longer your relationship with them, the better they serve you.
Yes. As I noted above, I've been very happy with State Farm. In those surveys, they are typically in the upper third of the companies rated (e.g. #7 out of 25 in the June Consumer Reports). Another advantage of State Farm is that you can use a local agent in your neighborhood, and if you ever have any trouble with changing your policy or a claim settlement, he/she can go to bat for you in getting it resolved. From my own experience, they are very fair, even generous, with their settlements; if your NSX is mostly stock, I'm not sure there's any advantage in getting insurance from a collector company rather than State Farm or one of the other top-rated companies.
shawn110975
Suspended
what you do with your car is your biz how did they find out would be the million dollar question are they trolling Facebook now to. looking for anyone talking about how the race everyweekend and then cancel you
this invading of Privacy is going above and beyond
this invading of Privacy is going above and beyond
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