FXMD Widebody Kit
- Thread starter Coz
- Start date
Thank you Cedric...That is very kind of you.
It was indeed a pleasure to meet you and Bertrand as well, I very much enjoyed talking with you both.
Tomorrow is the last SEMA day, so if your still around, please be sure to stop by before it ends...
QUOTE=menfou;1493317]Nice to meet you Jim.
Great idea your 2xrear vent
You are welcome in France and Switzerland, my home is open for you and family.
Cedric.[/QUOTE]
It was indeed a pleasure to meet you and Bertrand as well, I very much enjoyed talking with you both.
Tomorrow is the last SEMA day, so if your still around, please be sure to stop by before it ends...
QUOTE=menfou;1493317]Nice to meet you Jim.
Great idea your 2xrear vent
You are welcome in France and Switzerland, my home is open for you and family.
Cedric.[/QUOTE]
Coz, I'm really liking FXMD body kit. How is the construction? Looks pretty good from the photos. But it is pretty light? I hope ti wouldn't add too much weight compare to stock.
LS7NSX: saw your creation for the fist time today. It's insane!!
LS7NSX: saw your creation for the fist time today. It's insane!!
Decided to make some changes to the NSX for 2012.
For the better I hope
In the last 7 days.
1. Changed out the Gearbox
2. Took care of the leaking head gasket. You can see where it was leaking at the bridges.
3. Relocated the Accusump and Laminova to allow the Turbo location change coming.
4. Installed a Ron Davis radiator with twin fans.
5. Installed KW Club Sports with 857lb and 457lb springs.
6. Modified gas tank for An-12 vent.
...and I still have to move the Accusump brackets
A build never stops, it just keeps evolving.
For the better I hope
In the last 7 days.
1. Changed out the Gearbox
2. Took care of the leaking head gasket. You can see where it was leaking at the bridges.
3. Relocated the Accusump and Laminova to allow the Turbo location change coming.
4. Installed a Ron Davis radiator with twin fans.
5. Installed KW Club Sports with 857lb and 457lb springs.
6. Modified gas tank for An-12 vent.
...and I still have to move the Accusump brackets
A build never stops, it just keeps evolving.
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Decided to make some changes to the NSX for 2012.
For the better I hope
Above....
For the better I hope
Above....
Wow, you have a huge radiator! Do you wrench yourself on the NSX? How long does it take you to drop the motor?
Yes, it's BIG...went to the larger capacity radiator because I use the Laminova oil to water cooler.
Yes, I do the wrenching myself.
Dropping the cradle takes me about 4 hours from start to having it on the stand.
Yes, I do the wrenching myself.
Dropping the cradle takes me about 4 hours from start to having it on the stand.
Coz, what happened to this head gasket? I thought this engine was a little milder than previous ones.
I've been working on/off these past two weeks dropping my first NSX engine. All together though, it really has taken me about 8 hours total to the point of actually removing it. Let me just say I hope I never get as proficient as you in doing this:biggrin:
Dave
I've been working on/off these past two weeks dropping my first NSX engine. All together though, it really has taken me about 8 hours total to the point of actually removing it. Let me just say I hope I never get as proficient as you in doing this:biggrin:
Dave
Dave....
My fault actually. When we rebuilt this motor, we torqued the heads to OEM spec's of 56 ft lbs. They should have been torqued to 72 ft lbs for a turbo application. The front bank start lifting awhile back, fixed it and should have done the rear bank as well then. But it wasn't leaking so I was working off the theory if its not leaking, leave it alone. That theory lasted 3 months. So now it's fixed. The motor is actually the same build, just the tuning was kept a little milder other than the head gasket issue, the motor is running very strong.
LOL...After dropping several NSX motors, it gets easier...I developed a system of removal step by step that gets me through it pretty quickly and in the order it needs to be done.
It is pretty intimidating if you've never done it before. Just got to go slow, take your time and check to make sure everything is disconnected before raising the car off the motor.
What are you dropping the cradle on ?...do you have a stand ?
Be careful when you release the passenger side motor mount sitting on the cradle stand, the motor is going to want to drop on the passenger side in the cradle a about 3". Make sure that side of the motor is braced up so it stays in place.
My fault actually. When we rebuilt this motor, we torqued the heads to OEM spec's of 56 ft lbs. They should have been torqued to 72 ft lbs for a turbo application. The front bank start lifting awhile back, fixed it and should have done the rear bank as well then. But it wasn't leaking so I was working off the theory if its not leaking, leave it alone. That theory lasted 3 months. So now it's fixed. The motor is actually the same build, just the tuning was kept a little milder
other than the head gasket issue, the motor is running very strong.LOL...After dropping several NSX motors, it gets easier...I developed a system of removal step by step that gets me through it pretty quickly and in the order it needs to be done.
It is pretty intimidating if you've never done it before. Just got to go slow, take your time and check to make sure everything is disconnected before raising the car off the motor.
What are you dropping the cradle on ?...do you have a stand ?
Be careful when you release the passenger side motor mount sitting on the cradle stand, the motor is going to want to drop on the passenger side in the cradle a about 3". Make sure that side of the motor is braced up so it stays in place.
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That's too bad. Is it a ML gasket? I assume you're using head studs? The reason I'm asking is because I'm dropping my engine to do a mild build (~450WHP). I have the Cometic ML head gasket and then the ARP head studs.
I'm a little worried about what I torque the heads to. I've heard from some folks to go a little higher torque than what ARP says.
Thanks for the pointers on the engine/cradle support! That's why I'm taking (yet) another break to make sure my cradle dolly is adequate. The Honda cradle dolly pictured in the SM has the two engine supports like you mentioned. I need to build those in to mine. Basically I'm doing it like you, but without a MaxJax:smile: I just have a cherry picker like Shawn is using in his multiple NSX builds to pick the rear of the body up and wheel the cradle dolly in/out:
http://nsxprime.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1515321&postcount=81
Thanks again,
Dave
I'm a little worried about what I torque the heads to. I've heard from some folks to go a little higher torque than what ARP says.
Thanks for the pointers on the engine/cradle support! That's why I'm taking (yet) another break to make sure my cradle dolly is adequate. The Honda cradle dolly pictured in the SM has the two engine supports like you mentioned. I need to build those in to mine. Basically I'm doing it like you, but without a MaxJax:smile: I just have a cherry picker like Shawn is using in his multiple NSX builds to pick the rear of the body up and wheel the cradle dolly in/out:
http://nsxprime.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1515321&postcount=81
Thanks again,
Dave
No biggie...no one to blame but myself. Live and learn.
I needed the practice anyway, LOL.
Yes, Cometic. I don't use anything else.
No, I use OEM head bolts. many will say you can't use OEM bolts on turbo applications, it's BS. FXMD, myself and several others were using ARP's, they cost a bunch and they were going south as well.
FXMD was the first to go back to OEM bolts and torque them down to 72 lbs. Fes now builds all their motors with OEM bolts. They have not lost a head gasket since. Based on their testing, I went back to OEM bolts as well.
Are you turbo or SC ?...
We're taking the OEM's to 72 ft lbs with no problem.
My front bank is now as solid as can be, the rear one will be now too.
What ARP's did you get and what are they recommending ?
I got really tired of doing gearbox swaps on jack stands, on my back with floor jacks.
Knowing I was about to do the head gasket, I bought the MaxJax on sale for 2 grand delivered.
Set it up in about 4 hours and it was a great investment since I don't have the room for the full size lift.
It's hard enough doing this tuff at my age, without making it harder on myself.
You have guts going it that way, I don't envy you...
Here's a tip someone gave me for a stand. Use your U brace off the car as your template for where you want the motor stand to contact the motor. You'll find those are the support spots and is a perfect template. Build that onto your stand with the sames changes in height and lengths The only wood you should need then is to brace the passenger side of the motor from dropping that 3"
I needed the practice anyway, LOL.
Yes, Cometic. I don't use anything else.
No, I use OEM head bolts. many will say you can't use OEM bolts on turbo applications, it's BS. FXMD, myself and several others were using ARP's, they cost a bunch and they were going south as well.
FXMD was the first to go back to OEM bolts and torque them down to 72 lbs. Fes now builds all their motors with OEM bolts. They have not lost a head gasket since. Based on their testing, I went back to OEM bolts as well.
Are you turbo or SC ?...
We're taking the OEM's to 72 ft lbs with no problem.
My front bank is now as solid as can be, the rear one will be now too.
What ARP's did you get and what are they recommending ?
I got really tired of doing gearbox swaps on jack stands, on my back with floor jacks.
Knowing I was about to do the head gasket, I bought the MaxJax on sale for 2 grand delivered.
Set it up in about 4 hours and it was a great investment since I don't have the room for the full size lift.
It's hard enough doing this tuff at my age,
without making it harder on myself.You have guts going it that way, I don't envy you...
Here's a tip someone gave me for a stand. Use your U brace off the car as your template for where you want the motor stand to contact the motor. You'll find those are the support spots and is a perfect template. Build that onto your stand with the sames changes in height and lengths
The only wood you should need then is to brace the passenger side of the motor from dropping that 3"
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I will PM you my number. You are welcome to call me if you have any questions...
Would rather help you through it if I can rather than hear your motor hit the ground...
Would rather help you through it if I can rather than hear your motor hit the ground...
Yeah, ARP has a good racket. If there are any problems, they have absolutely no liability - they blame it on incorrect installation. Interesting to hear about keeping the OEM bolts!
I need to dig through my pile of parts to find what ARP recommends torquing them to. They are the SOS-spec'd ones. This thread is what clued me into torquing them slightly higher than what ARP said, but he hasn't been on the forums since:
http://nsxprime.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1477195&postcount=35
My plan was to put timeserts in the block and then do the ARP studs about 10ft-lbs higher than whatever they specify. I'll find it in my boxes tomorrow and post back. I'm doing turbos, but these will provide about 9-10psig boost as low as 2500 RPM's (new Aerodyne's).
Good tip on using the u-brace as a template! Hadn't thought of that!
I need to dig through my pile of parts to find what ARP recommends torquing them to. They are the SOS-spec'd ones. This thread is what clued me into torquing them slightly higher than what ARP said, but he hasn't been on the forums since:
http://nsxprime.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1477195&postcount=35
My plan was to put timeserts in the block and then do the ARP studs about 10ft-lbs higher than whatever they specify. I'll find it in my boxes tomorrow and post back. I'm doing turbos, but these will provide about 9-10psig boost as low as 2500 RPM's (new Aerodyne's).
Good tip on using the u-brace as a template! Hadn't thought of that!
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