Exedy twin organic clutch-who's running it?

Great! Beacause I loved my PG2 clutch as well. So maybe I should do the damper delete as well. It's strange though how the twin disk exedy feels like the single disk PG2? But boy do I miss that clutch!

Yea it does feel very smiliar to the PG2. It lasted 30k miles too.

(Awesome avatar btw, I've had five boxers, my last one is 8 y/o now.)
 
Sat in the car today. The Exedy twin is HEAVY. My old clutch assembly was quite light so I was used to it... but this one is almost double the effort. I will try to get the car back tonight after work to let you know how it drives and if there is any chatter at all.
 
Sat in the car today. The Exedy twin is HEAVY. My old clutch assembly was quite light so I was used to it... but this one is almost double the effort. I will try to get the car back tonight after work to let you know how it drives and if there is any chatter at all.
Shitty.... But I have been doing leg exercises lately with heavy weight. Maybe it won't be as bad as I think. How does it drive?
 
Sat in the car today. The Exedy twin is HEAVY. My old clutch assembly was quite light so I was used to it... but this one is almost double the effort. I will try to get the car back tonight after work to let you know how it drives and if there is any chatter at all.
Maybe it feels like double the effort of OEM because you're used to the push effort of a worn out OEM vs the effort of a brand new Exedy. It might not be as dramatic if compared to the effort of a brand new OEM. Just my thoughts...

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
 
Maybe it feels like double the effort of OEM because you're used to the push effort of a worn out OEM vs the effort of a brand new Exedy. It might not be as dramatic if compared to the effort of a brand new OEM. Just my thoughts...

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

I didn't come from OEM but rather a lightweight flywheel/clutch option from the previous owner. It was Jun/Phase (Japanese aftermarket parts) combo I think. Because my previous flywheel was lightweight I had lots of trouble slipping into 1st and would stall all the time. The revs go up and down faster which I do miss..... and the clutch pedal was super easy to push in.

Nevertheless, I drove the car home yesterday with the Exedy Twin Organic clutch installed. The first time I got in and tried to slip the clutch, I stalled twice immediately. The push-back from the clutch pedal is so much stronger I couldn't feather it. The mechanic told me I should be using my heel as an anchor point for the clutch and not pushing my whole leg down. I had to be very slow with my slipping so as to not jerk the car forwards, and will practice anchoring my left leg later.

The clutch itself is pretty good. I am still looking to break it in so I won't push it, but so far the bite feels pretty strong and firm even since I am on FI. The clutch operates with no chatter- I could provide a video as evidence... but you would hear my supercharger rattle in the video. Engagement is pretty linear and the feathering region will be easy to work with once I get used to it- it is very driveable. The revs fall pretty naturally but not as fast as my old flywheel so I always end up having to wait a little bit in between shifts to get the rev match perfectly.

One thing I will say about the install- make sure your mechanic has the PDF that was in Cody's prime post in 2015 which explains how to install it. It doesn't come with the kit and there is a specific step that is very confusing when installing the throwout bearing... I think it's on page 6 of the PDF where you have to use aluminum spacers to temporarily install it first then take the spacers out. I also bought the clutch fork dust boot with my kit but the one I had wasn't ripped, but we installed it anyway.

So glad to have the car back after the install. It took 2 weeks since I had other stuff replaced in the meantime (engine mount, CV boots, oil pan leak). Having the full confidence in the car's driveability was definitely worth it.
 
[MENTION=31854]furinax[/MENTION] Thanks for the detailed review. Two weeks though? Try 3 months on my motor and it is still not put back together. I'm going stir crazy! Lol. Did you remove your clutch damper prior to install?
 
Yea it does feel very smiliar to the PG2. It lasted 30k miles too.

(Awesome avatar btw, I've had five boxers, my last one is 8 y/o now.)

Thank you. I have 3! We are a AKC champion breeder.
 
@furinax Thanks for the detailed review. Two weeks though? Try 3 months on my motor and it is still not put back together. I'm going stir crazy! Lol. Did you remove your clutch damper prior to install?

Haha yeah I thought of that when I was typing it but I didn't want to remind you.... kinda have to hope the weather is crummy so you wouldn't be driving anyway.

I'll get some pictures up later.

So this clutch is only expected to last 30k miles? From my reading it seems fairly new.
 
Proof of no chatter. If you do hear some rattling in the background it is the coupling in my BBSC which of course has some play.

https://youtu.be/QIAkFhlq_XI

I have been on this clutch for over 500 miles and it's still pretty solid. Very streetable. It does make a strange thumping noise when I am pushing the car but it may just be my bad technique. As in- right when the clutch engages you hear a soft thump when it bites. Maybe this is normal?

New Clutch with Install Kit (note I got the dust boot but it was not torn when the installer removed it)

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Transmission opened up. To my dismay I didn't get to see all the fancy gears as apparently that is in the other part of the transmission which does not need to be opened. I would have liked to see the condition of the gears and synchros.

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The old clutch assembly. If you want to know what a worn clutch looks like, this is it. It was grabbing fine but would slip when I would start to accelerate about 5% of the time. Some days it was about 20% of the time, mostly in the higher gears. I wasn't even mashing the accelerator down either.

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Where the flywheel used to be
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I'm guessing this is the input shaft?

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If you wanna know what hotspots look like on a flywheel, here was mine. All the circles on the shiny part are essentially crystallized imperfections.

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Side view of my clutch discs as to how worn they were.

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Okay enough pictures for now. My mechanic was nice enough to let me drop by and snap photos throughout the process. Also be sure to print out the PDF and hand it to the installer, there is a crucial step while installing the throwout bearing (I think) which involves using some spacers temporarily. If anyone wants my old clutch/flywheel cores they are up for grabs. I am also open for creative suggestions on what to do with them as they are basically just paperweights now. :biggrin:
 
I’m bumping this thread to give my opinions on this clutch.

The good:
It holds on high hp engines. Currently I am at 433 whp.
It is rather easy to feel when the clutch engages. Which for me is about 25% from the floor.
It doesn’t make any noise.
Clutch pedal isn’t too heavy.
There seems to be much less clutch smell on spirited drives VS oem with 340 whp.

The bad:
This thing shudders like hell in reverse or in first when feathering throttle.
This clutch jerks and slams into gear. I cannot imagine this is good for the transmission.
Gear shifts at wot speeds is extremely notchy and once again slams into gears.

Overall, it’s an ok clutch and probably one of the best options for my power output. However, the CT clutch was worlds beyond better. Maybe something went afoul when it was installed, I don’t know. But this clutch is going to murder my engine mounts and transmission the way it thuds into gear. I’ll probably have it looked at this summer along with my current engine tune.
If you have 300 whp or less, I couldn’t imagine any real reason to run this clutch over the oem unit.
 
How many miles on your transmission [MENTION=31260]Jinks[/MENTION] ? What transmission fluid are you using? Also, did you do the engine/transmission mount torquing procedure from the service manual? There is a sequence you should follow when reassembling.

If some people have no shudder and you do, then either Exedy has poor quality control (unlikely), something wasn't assembled correctly, it wasn't broken in correctly, or your transmission input shaft bearings are worn. I've been there and done that, and it sucks. Sorry.
 
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How many miles on your transmission @Jinks ? What transmission fluid are you using? Also, did you do the engine/transmission mount torquing procedure from the service manual? There is a sequence you should follow when reassembling.

If some people have no shudder and you do, then either Exedy has poor quality control (unlikely), something wasn't assembled correctly, it wasn't broken in correctly, or your transmission input shaft bearings are worn. I've been there and done that, and it sucks. Sorry.
Whatever Shad put in it. I’m not 100% sure and will have to check. Trans didn’t do this before the motor build though on oem clutch. Motor mounts will be checked when I bring it to a mechanic as I do not enjoy crawling under this car anymore while on jack stands.
 
Any updates? I'm still hunting for the perfect clutch for my CTSC. Was considering the exedy twin disc but now have concerns as with SOS and OS Giken.
 
When DA first tuned my car to make 430rwhp it had the 97+ single disc upgrade with 100k miles on the clutch.

No slippage and OEM engagement.

Did u consider that?

Do you mean the OEM NA2 single disc clutch or you had an upgraded one? The oem clutch can not handle high rpm launches with a CTSC from personal experience and mentioned by others.
 
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Any updates? I'm still hunting for the perfect clutch for my CTSC. Was considering the exedy twin disc but now have concerns as with SOS and OS Giken.

If I had to do it again, I’d stay oem or if Ct starts making them again, I’d get that one.
 
If I had to do it again, I’d stay oem or if Ct starts making them again, I’d get that one.

Thanks for your input Jinks. My concern with oem is that the single disc cant handle the upgraded torque as well as was the pressure plate designed to have a high enough clamping force for FI applications. Is a spec from Acura/Honda available? Original clutch only has 44K miles on it as soon as I installed the CTSC it completely slipped shifting at high rpm from 2nd to 3rd. It was at the end of a 3hr drive on a hot day so heat definitely was a factor but I need a clutch I can drive all day carefree :)
 
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I have this clutch in my car too. 445 rwhp and I also got it from Coz. Great service by the way. I came from an OEM NA1 setup and didn't notice the pedal effort to be that much greater, but a little bit. I broke it in carefully but like Jinks, it shudders horribly in reverse. In first gear, great care is needed for smooth getaway. With no gas applied and a deft touch it will engage smoothly. Rev a bit and try to take off it it occasionally shudders. It clamps like a mother so that is reassuring. As to notchiness, I don't get any. The lighter flywheel takes a little practice to rev match for shifting but I really don't notice any extra drama while rolling. just my $.02.
 
Thanks for your input Jinks. My concern with oem is that the single disc cant handle the upgraded torque as well as was the pressure plate designed to have a high enough clamping force for FI applications. Is a spec from Acura/Honda available? Original clutch only has 44K miles on it as soon as I installed the CTSC it completely slipped shifting at high rpm from 2nd to 3rd. It was at the end of a 3hr drive on a hot day so heat definitely was a factor but I need a clutch I can drive all day carefree :)
I had many happy miles on my oem twin disk running an off the shelf CTSC kit. However the clutch was brand new. But if you dump the clutch from a dig, you’ll have quite a foul smell.
 
I have this clutch in my car too. 445 rwhp and I also got it from Coz. Great service by the way. I came from an OEM NA1 setup and didn't notice the pedal effort to be that much greater, but a little bit. I broke it in carefully but like Jinks, it shudders horribly in reverse. In first gear, great care is needed for smooth getaway. With no gas applied and a deft touch it will engage smoothly. Rev a bit and try to take off it it occasionally shudders. It clamps like a mother so that is reassuring. As to notchiness, I don't get any. The lighter flywheel takes a little practice to rev match for shifting but I really don't notice any extra drama while rolling. just my $.02.

So I’m not the only one with the shakes and shudders. Lol. I drove it yesterday and I am getting used to it. I have found that while in reverse, if I keep the pedal halfway down, the shudder doesn’t appear in reverse.
 
Ugh, my car has been out for two months for some body work so I'll have to confirm this. Hopefully I can pick it up tomorrow and test out the reverse. I would say my experience is about the same as Valhalla's.
 
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