17 inch Advan RZ rim. Fits not, but nearly. only about 3mm are the spokes on the hub side hitting. Those rims are for my friends silver NSX, he has the AP 6pot caliper on his car. The caliper is a bit slimmer, so the rim should clear.
Europen NSX GT racecar build up progress
- Thread starter austrian type-R
- Start date
he said he didnt' end up buying the body molds. from other posts in the thread, apparently, they are a mix of gt1 and gt2 parts and would not allow for a full recreation of a LeMan's body. i am also curious of the price of this entire package since i would not be surprised if other members on this forum were willing to pay for the whole package...
If so, then it looks like the only possible way to acquire a copy of the Le Mans kit would be to contact HART. Or recreate it by making the molds oneself. Ick.
milled head and block. new valve job, stiffer Supertec valve springs, toda oil pump, SoS oil pan shield, Dali aluminium crank pulley, comptech sandwitch adapter plate, all new valve seals, cometic head gasket, new piston rings
Installed the engine and rear suspension today. It rolles on wheels again. 
I hope to start the engine at the weekend. I have to check some oil lines for the oil cooler tomorrow.
I hope to start the engine at the weekend. I have to check some oil lines for the oil cooler tomorrow.
WOW!!! Cant wait to hear ur take on how she sounds when you get her started!! PROPS
Slicks on an NSX look good.
Wraped the headers and installed them today.
Today removed the ABS and installed the Dali "ABS eliminator Kit". After I do the first testruns I fill install the lines better.
The PWR radiator got in place, but the oil feed fittings are at the same gih than the brace. I have to solve that problem on monday when the shop with the Earl fittings has open again. The lower coolant pipe was a bit too long, so I cutted a few cm off.
I have some space problems in the rear too with the CT oil adapter. I dunno how to route the oil lines, seems very little space there and I do not want to have rubbing issues with the drive shaft or suspension part. Do you have any idea how it would work best?
The PWR radiator got in place, but the oil feed fittings are at the same gih than the brace. I have to solve that problem on monday when the shop with the Earl fittings has open again.
The lower coolant pipe was a bit too long, so I cutted a few cm off.I have some space problems in the rear too with the CT oil adapter. I dunno how to route the oil lines, seems very little space there and I do not want to have rubbing issues with the drive shaft or suspension part. Do you have any idea how it would work best?
I Had the comptech oil adapter on my car. I was able to arrange the plate and fittings to make it work but it is tight. After using this for a while I removed it and put back the stock H20-Oil cooler and went to a Canton adapter.
My oil temps drooped considerably with the stock cooler and canton adapter vs the comptech adapter. With the canton adaptpr you will need to use the shorter filters. The long filters would work on my car if I moved the Ebrake cable.
Hope this helps.
Later,
Don
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Hay... Looking at your images I noticed you have the NSX-R support bar.
There are two. One in front of the radiator and one under the sway bar.
Loose the one under the sway bar. If the sway bar hits the NSX-R support bar it will limit suspension travel. I could not shim the bar enough to make it work for the race track.
Those of us at the track with sticky tires have all lost that NSX-R bar.
For me this bar was good for countless problem with broken end links and a really nasty off.
Later,
Don
There are two. One in front of the radiator and one under the sway bar.
Loose the one under the sway bar. If the sway bar hits the NSX-R support bar it will limit suspension travel. I could not shim the bar enough to make it work for the race track.
Those of us at the track with sticky tires have all lost that NSX-R bar.
For me this bar was good for countless problem with broken end links and a really nasty off.
Later,
Don
made a few things today
Hey those are nice cats on the car!
The car looks great! I'm really impressed with the build! Keep informing us with your build! :smile:
So you are using the comptech oil sandwich adapter and there's no room for the lines? Will you place the heat exchanger in the fender well?
The car looks great! I'm really impressed with the build! Keep informing us with your build! :smile:
So you are using the comptech oil sandwich adapter and there's no room for the lines? Will you place the heat exchanger in the fender well?
The Lines will fit. You have to get all the correct fittings. For me the fun part was getting all the correct fittings for the cooler and mounting it in front of the side scoop opening. I used a setrab 13 row.
I'll have an extra CT oil sandwich adapter I want to get rid of.
I used two forged fittings. They are lower profile than a standard fitting. Will get the line closer to the crank. I use an-10 lines not an-12. I believe the ct adapter is an an-12.
When I installed this I took some photos.
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Thanks nsxnut for the pics. I was planning on placing my oil cooler there as well but routing it through the fender well instead of where the fan used to be but that works just as well! Did you monitor your oil temps? Any noticible drops from the oil cooler?
When I first installed I didn't have decent gauges. I really can't say.
My oil cooler is in front at the car and is one piece with the radiator. It s a PWR radiator with 2 fans
Today I got the correct 90 degree adapter for AN10 into AN12 thread. Since this fitting is for high pressure hydralic it has a thick sidewall. A friend of mine will bore it out to EARL AN12 fitting size and cut it off where I show with the screwdriver @ the elbow
I filled up the engine with Mobil1 5w50. Can't wait to crank it after I finish the oil fittings
You see how tight it is. When I cut the thread on the 90 degree elbow I get 12mm more space between fitting and brace, that should be enough, since the brace is only moving a few mm.
At the first pic I have about 4cm gap between crank pulley and oil line.
I filled up the engine with Mobil1 5w50. Can't wait to crank it after I finish the oil fittings
You see how tight it is. When I cut the thread on the 90 degree elbow I get 12mm more space between fitting and brace, that should be enough, since the brace is only moving a few mm.
At the first pic I have about 4cm gap between crank pulley and oil line.
Brought back the front and rear bumper again. Installed hood pins at trunck door and hood. Did the first test run. Damn, that tranny is awesome! Sounds so nice!
Installed Takata harness too.
Installed Takata harness too.
update:
installiing Comptech cams, Wiseco 0.25 overbore pistons, all new bearings. Remote the oil filter in the place hwere the spare tire usualy is.
installiing Comptech cams, Wiseco 0.25 overbore pistons, all new bearings. Remote the oil filter in the place hwere the spare tire usualy is.
make sure you dyno after the install ,coz alot of primers here would like to know about the gains of the cams, pistons and bearings.:smile:
sam
sam
- Joined
- 27 September 2007
- Messages
- 264
This looks like an expensive project. But only the best for the NSX, right
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