Engine Overheating - Bleeding issue

anm

anm

Registered Member
Joined
12 October 2008
Messages
55
The engine started overheating, when I rev it cools down. From reading in other threads; I believe it's a bleeding issue.

I tried bleeding it, the coolant flew from all but only one, bleeding bolt #4 (circled in red in the picture) where nothing came out at all.

What do you guys think?

bleeding.jpg
 
Keep on bleeding till it runs coolant, without bubbles. Do it with running engine.
Take it for a spin, bleed again.

If bubbles and air is comming back again, you need to take it to a pro, before you get into bigger trouble. Been there done that. Btw, do you run a stock 'white' coolant tank?
 
anm said:
The engine started overheating, when I rev it cools down. From reading in other threads; I believe it's a bleeding issue.

I tried bleeding it, the coolant flew from all but only one, bleeding bolt #4 (circled in red in the picture) where nothing came out at all.

What do you guys think?

bleeding.jpg
Click to expand...

If no coolant came out, you still have to bleed more. It seems there is still an air pocket in the block.

Regards,
LarryB
 
Last edited:
DutchBlackNsx said:
Keep on bleeding till it runs coolant, without bubbles. Do it with running engine.
Take it for a spin, bleed again.

If bubbles and air is comming back again, you need to take it to a pro, before you get into bigger trouble. Been there done that. Btw, do you run a stock 'white' coolant tank?
Click to expand...

Ok, I've done it before with the engine off. I'll try it with the engine running.
and yes, I have the stock tank.
 
If bleeding with the engine running doesn't help #4, unscrew the bleeder all the way & remove it. Make sure the holes in it are clear, and make sure there is no clog inside the threaded hole. Carefully clean that out with either a wire or small screwdriver.

If that was the cause, I'd be concerned that someone didn't change the antifreeze per the required intervals, used the wrong antifreeze, or diluted antifreeze with tap water that was loaded with minerals. I'd use a Honda-approved cooling system cleaner on the next antifreeze change.
 
Since you get overheating, airpockets, the lot AND have an stock coolanttank, i suggest you do a search here on prime on the coollanttank problems (please do).
In short, the old tank happens to get brittle over time, and especially near the seams, and the stress places, such as near the mounting holes of the tank these tanks are showing very small cracks.
Often not even visible, but with a hot engine you can see airbubbles and even hear air comming out. The system looses pressure, lowering the boilingpoint, et voila, air in your system. This is a very common failure.

If you havent noticed the overheating (read: me) your head will warp, gasket will go, and you will keep on getting airpockets in your cooling system. Even when you have replaced the coollanttank.

Plenty of info in this thread to check!

Have fun
 
It's not clear for me if you changed the coolant or not. I guess not, right?

Listen to DutchBlackNSX and Larry. In addition take it for a moderate drive, then open the coolant bottle cap slowly half a turn, DO NOT TAKE IT OFF and USE A SHOP TOWEL (Don't burn yourself)! Just listen if you have pressure in the system. If not, check the bottle and change the radiator o-rings (very common place to loose pressure). If you hear the pressure have a look at the thermostat. Of course the system should be free of bubbles.

If that all doesn't work: Have a headgasket test if it blows air in the coolant.

Hope this helps.
 
ftuhy said:
If bleeding with the engine running doesn't help #4, unscrew the bleeder all the way & remove it. Make sure the holes in it are clear, and make sure there is no clog inside the threaded hole. Carefully clean that out with either a wire or small screwdriver.
Click to expand...

This is a really good point:).

I was not thinking this since I do not use the bleeders at all.

Regards,
LarryB
 
How do you do the bleeding at your place? That's the way I want to do it as i'm getting ready to do T/B, W/P, all hoses !

Cheers
nigel
 
Do your bleeding with the ENGINE OFF as the service manual says. Read it over and over and over again untill you've memorized it iota by iota.

Somethign people commonly miss having the engine on, not turning the cap to the proper point as the service manual asks, or not following the bleeding order exactly.

I did it with the engine on the first time and went a hair above the midline because I'm sure I screwed up. Every time afterwards, I did it with the ENGINE OFF, and if you're unsure, you can always do it again.

Don't drive the car untill you're super sure everything is good. Run it at ideal for a good 30 minutes, rev it in neutral etc......

If you're not 100% comfortable, take it to Acura shop, if they blow it, you get a new engine. Do a compression check before and after.....
 
Last edited:
nigel said:
How do you do the bleeding at your place? That's the way I want to do it as i'm getting ready to do T/B, W/P, all hoses !

Cheers
nigel
Click to expand...

pbassjo,

Do you want to take this one, or should I??:)

Regards,
LarryB
 
Here is what I use:

Snap-On:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...group_ID=12500&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Mighty-Vac:

http://www.toolsource.com/cooling-system-evac-refill-p-100673.html?osCsid=i0rjibrgs1hk33d7dpf01lc5b5

These are a little pricey for a one time use, but they are quick, easy, no mess at all, and you leave all the bleeders shut:). I have never had a bleed issue using this tool. I have the Snap-On. This tool and a 5 gallon jug is a great way to go.

pbassjo informed me about this tool a few years ago, and it is priceless.

HTH,
LarryB
 
So, I tried bleeding it with the engine running and with the engine off. I tried it with the front of the car lower than rear and then with the rear lower than the front. However; nothing came out at all from bleeding bolt# 4 although I removed it completely. I tried it with the sequence in the manual; and I tried and closed all the bleeders and left # 4 only open but no success.

However; during bleeding process I let out around 1 or 2 L of coolant; then I added about 7 L to fill the system.

Do you think that the thermostat maybe an issue here too?
 
Larry Bastanza said:
Here is what I use:

Snap-On:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...group_ID=12500&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Mighty-Vac:

http://www.toolsource.com/cooling-system-evac-refill-p-100673.html?osCsid=i0rjibrgs1hk33d7dpf01lc5b5

These are a little pricey for a one time use, but they are quick, easy, no mess at all, and you leave all the bleeders shut:). I have never had a bleed issue using this tool. I have the Snap-On. This tool and a 5 gallon jug is a great way to go.

pbassjo informed me about this tool a few years ago, and it is priceless.

HTH,
LarryB
Click to expand...

Larry, I got one of those snap on vacuum filllers. I must admit it works well because it makes the cooling system in a vacuum but I cringe and hope that I do not damage any of the hoses. Seeing the hoses compress scares me. But I have never had a problem using it even though I have heard stories about the potential dangers in using it
 
I tried this Mighty-Vac: month ago car was still over heating ,i tried different way fill the coolant tank little over max and put the funnel right in the neck of the tank.and run the engine let it heat up and
coolant rise up right in the funnel and you will see the bubbling with air coming out .I had to do this few times and took care the problem.


Mohammed
 
Last edited:
anm said:
So, I tried bleeding it with the engine running and with the engine off. I tried it with the front of the car lower than rear and then with the rear lower than the front. However; nothing came out at all from bleeding bolt# 4 although I removed it completely. I tried it with the sequence in the manual; and I tried and closed all the bleeders and left # 4 only open but no success.

However; during bleeding process I let out around 1 or 2 L of coolant; then I added about 7 L to fill the system.

Do you think that the thermostat maybe an issue here too?
Click to expand...

Well you need to fix this. If there is nothing coming out, you need to focus on why. That is why it is overheating.

You may wish to try blowing that bleeder hole out with compressed air. Also one other thing, since I realized it may not be obvious: When you bleed the system the water valve for the heater core must be open to get a good bleed the first time. I am not saying this relates in any way to your issue, but since this thread has gone further and we are discussing bleeding in general I wanted to mention that.

Regard,
LarryB
 
Last edited:
If no water comes out take the bleeder off and have look at two things. 1. Deos now water come out when you refill? If yes and only then have a look at the bleeder itself and clean it.
 

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