Engine not starting up/ No Electricity

Engine Not starting

  • Engine not starting due to electricity not getting to starter

    Votes: 2 28.6%

  • Possible cause #1 Ignition switch

    Votes: 2 28.6%

  • Possible Cause #2 Relays

    Votes: 3 42.9%
  • Total voters
    7
N

NSXpert01

Registered Member
Joined
29 January 2004
Messages
56
Location
Miami
Recently went to start my 91' and I was getting power to the car but the starter would not turn. I checked every imaginable fuse and they were all working fine, I soon find out that my power to my radio, a/c controls and power seats are not working either and still I have voltage coming into the car because my windows still go down. Can someone help!!!!! I guessing it can be the ignition switch, that is my only last hope but I do not know how to test it w/o having to buy a new one does anyone know how to test if this is my problem or if they have another solution to what my problem seems to be???? Please email me at [email protected] with your comments:confused:
 
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Hello, I would first look at the obvious... the battery. It's common for a battery running really low to be able to power some accesories but not have enough juice to crank the engine. You can test it with a voltmeter and/or try to jump it.
 
I have a brand new Optima gel battery, theres no weakness shown on the battery, I'm thinking that the most obvious problem is the ignition switch that it isnt going to step 2 "ACC" which is right before you start the car. but it is working at step 1.

Can someone tell me if there ignition switch on step 1 allows the windows to work but not the radio nor a/c , and in step 2 if thats when u can use the radio/ A/C controls w/o th eengine starting?:confused:
 
Most common cause of no start is the Main relay or the Ignition switch. The Main relay is normally intermittent and the ignition switch can be coaxed into working by jiggling it. The other cause which is some times over looked is an after market alarm system with a starter kill circuit.
 
Thanks for the input, I will definetly try overwriting my aftermarket alarm as well as jiggling the ignition. which is the main relay you rspeaking of (location)? is ther a way to test this relay w/o having to purchase it? they tend to run pretty pricey at the acura dealer.......
 
I have checked #9, isnt that the one that has a clear top and you can see the thread of the fuse? If it is this #9 is ok but i will definetly check it again. I tried looking in the electrical service manual and they talk about the ignition switch but they only say how to replace it not how to trouble shoot it.

BrianK or anyone else, Can you tell me what operation happens at the different steps on your ignition ex..I, II, III?
Thanks this will help me eliminating the ignition switch as a possible cause.
 
relays

If it does turn out to be your main relay, located in the fuse box under your hood, Call acura and get the part #. Then call your local Honda dealer and get the same part for half the price. I replaced mine and I had the exact same symptoms. It turned out to be the alarm on my car.

good luck
 
Re: relays

loNfastNSX said:
If it does turn out to be your main relay, located in the fuse box under your hood, Call acura and get the part #. Then call your local Honda dealer and get the same part for half the price. I replaced mine and I had the exact same symptoms. It turned out to be the alarm on my car.

good luck
Click to expand...


Main Relay is part number EZ-1010. :D

Oh, and I bought mine from Dave Day at Asian-Auto-Parts.com for about $50. Or you might be able to fix your exisisting one. If it is your relay, it probably just has a small break in the connection. ;)

G Luck,
- Z
 
might be a long shot but try the fuses on the drivers side interior by your left leg. I accidently shorted my O2 wire the other day and the car would not start. Finally I found an alternator fuse in the interior fuses. It was a 7.5 amp fuse
 
#9 is the closest one to the jump start terminal the only time that I have heard of that blowing is when the battery is connected backwards. The cover of the main fuse box has the locations and numbers of the fuses. You need to verify (check for continuity) that #9 is or is not bad and go from there.
 
I will definetly try this weekend to fix my problem, Im dying to take my car out for a spin its been sitting for about 3 weeks because of this problem. I will let you guys know how it goes.

I still havent gotten a reply from anyone letting me know what the operations of the ignition swith are at the different intervals???????:(
 
really what i want to know is if at position 1 you hear the bell ring a few times i think, I forget now, at position 2 or 3 not sure you might be able to operate the seats and radio and a/c controls and the final position the car starts. I just want to know this information because to many things are going wrong for it to be connected to one fuse when the radio and seats and starter motor are irrevelant from each other.

Thanks
 
when that alternator fuse went out, various things did not work, windows, climate control, did not start, gauges did not move. So it could very well be related to that one fuse
 
To answer your question regarding key positions. Keep in mind mine is a 97 and i'm not sure if there are any changes from yours (I wouldn't think so.)

Seats move without key being in.

Key position 1 - radio will play
Key position 2 - dash lights all come one and all the accesories function
Key position 3 - only used to start motor.
 
Based on the decription from hlweyl:

Seats move without key being in.

Do not change any relays/ignition switch. Find the bad fuse/open connection:). Also my 1991 is the same, seats move without the key in.

Also remember it is very decieving to "look" at a fuse, you need a Ohmeter to check them.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Well I think by the last response It will rule out the ignition switch as a possiblity. I will check the fuse #9 with a test light and for continuity. I also guess the alarm will also not be a possiblity anymore. Its all very strange to me, but tommorrow Sat I will be working on resolving my problem.
 
After testing everything imaginable from all of the post submitted to my problem I think I have found the cause for this headache...... The starter cut-off relay underneath the dash behind the glove box. Well we will soon find out for sure once I buy a new one today., only 30 bucks not to bad. I ran a trouble shoot for continuity and it had none , I wasnt getting anypower whatso ever to the rear fuse box and #9 in the driver side fuse box, Once i noticed this I went to the electrical flow charts and noticed where the starter relax comes from the batt to the relay then to the #9 which feeds the fuse box in the engine compartment.....whoooosshhh is all I got to say about this. I will let every one know how it goes once I install the new relay. wish me luck:rolleyes:
 
Well, I installed the starter cut relay thinking it would solve my problem but it didnt. Right now I am not getting any power what so ever into my driver & engine compartment fuse boxes, but the main fuse box up front is. I'm thinking definetly its a relay but not sure which....I had power to my radio and A/C...ect. till I heard somwhere up front a pretty loud click like that from a relay, then the power went out cmpletly to the 2 fuse boxes. Im going to study the service manual flow charts to see if I can come up with a solution, but if anyone has any clue as to what might be my problem please let me know.
Thanks:confused:
 
I did already no power comming in #9, I went to the flow charts and it looks to me like it was the starter cut-off relay which comes from the batt to the relay then to #9, but I just put a new one and nothing still no power, Is there another relay I should be aware of?
 
OK,

The relay you replaced was probably the correct one, however the problem was not the relay, but rather the power to close the contacts. From one past experience I have had with this, I had an issue with power to the security system which would not allow this relay to close. Did you check ALL pins in this relays' socket? If you do not have 12+V there to close the relay all bets are off.

Look for the fuse that powers up the security system. Check the following: Check Dash Fuse Box- Fuse #5 10A, then check the Main Relay Box - Fuse #29 50A. Check Fuse #18 20A in the Main Fuse Box in the engine compartment. This was the one that got me:), it is shown on page 23-308 of the online service manual just next to fuse #9.


In regard to the Starter Cut Relay, also on page 23-308 of the online service manual it shows the relay terminals A-D A and C should be +12 when the ignition switch is in the "Start" position. The key here is terminal D MUST be closed to ground through the security system. Terminal B feeds the starter system.

HTH,
LarryB
 
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I have checked the #29 50amp and that does have power to both ends, but #5 has no power to either end, I have no juice in the dash fuse box. The problem why all these components arent working is because of #9 not getting power they all lead to #9 but I cannot figure out ....yet which is before besides the starter cut relay which has been replaced already
 

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