Engine- need advice

[Coz]

David and I are working very close on a bunch of things for the J swap as to various packages that we'll offer. NA, SC and turbo.
I'm also working with Darton and Race Engine Development for closed deck sleeves for FI applications. We also have an extended 8 qt oil pan with baffle in the works as well as a custom header design. We already have a custom manifold, fuel rail and TB set up done that gives both platforms better numbers and longevity.
Lots of good things are about to come about with the J Swap. Dave and I will be spending quite a bit of time here shortly putting my car together, making sure it all falls together correctly and finalizing many things that will soon be released.

The idea for many will be to pull their C motors and put them away for a rainy day rather than burn them up and go nuts with the time and money it takes building another one.

I've said it in another thread and I'll say it again here. You, sir, are doing the lord's work. The feasibility of the J-swap was one of the deciding factors in an NSX purchase; was wary of what would happen when the C motor blew up or tired out. With the J swap kit and the work you and others are doing with it, owners now have another powerplant option.

 

[Butters]

David and I are working very close on a bunch of things for the J swap as to various packages that we'll offer. NA, SC and turbo.
I'm also working with Darton and Race Engine Development for closed deck sleeves for FI applications. We also have an extended 8 qt oil pan with baffle in the works as well as a custom header design. We already have a custom manifold, fuel rail and TB set up done that gives both platforms better numbers and longevity.
Lots of good things are about to come about with the J Swap. Dave and I will be spending quite a bit of time here shortly putting my car together, making sure it all falls together correctly and finalizing many things that will soon be released.

The idea for many will be to pull their C motors and put them away for a rainy day rather than burn them up and go nuts with the time and money it takes building another one.

Very interested to see the finalized kit!

 

[RYU]

On the J swap the tranny weak is what I worry about. Any thoughts?

 

[BAVARIA]

Very informative thread. The takeaway for me (stock /94 5 speed -- only mod a full header to muffler system off an /04) is that with 52,000 fairly gentle miles on the car and oil/filter changes every 3,000 miles or once per year, whichever comes first, at my age (58) taking into account the couple of thousand miles I put on the car per year, this motor is going to easily outlast me. I love Honda/Acura.

Best,
Jeff

 

[Mac Attack]

Coz, I appreciate the kind words and it means a lot to me coming from you.

As I said before, you have a lot more experience than I do, and you've found a combination of what works well on these engines. I wouldn't change anything then. I think the trick on the older C30 block that didn't have the Honda MLS HG from the factory (and therefore perhaps smoother mating surfaces) is the Permatec stuff that you've been using.

I trust your judgement Dave, really I do, you're a smart and articulate man, this I do know.
I've just never had any luck with studs and never had any issues with bolts. Its always been a torq issue more than anything else.
Having done this a few times, been through some failures you just get to the point you do what you know works and stick with it.
The Permatec is great stuff, its a great sealer for very tiny imperfections for sealing. Once it gone through a heat cycle, it becomes part of the gasket and a permanent seal.
Picture is a head gasket coated with Permatec.
I never put head gaskets on now without it.
...and, which is why I'm doing a J swap on my car in December, LOL

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How did you go through two head gaskets on stock engines? Are they overheating? It's just unusual to have a HG go on the newer C32s with MLS gaskets from the factory and stock power level, let alone two of them!

Last year, I blew a head gasket in my 2000 and had a chance thru NSX Prime to buy a used engine so I didnt have to rush into deciding what to do with my original engine. My original engine had 250,000 miles on it so I knew just replacing the gasket wasnt wise. Ultimately I decided to have the orig engine rebuilt and it is in the process of being installed. This leaves me with the 98 engine that is being removed and as luck would have it , I believe the head gasket is now blown on it. So, I would appreciate the group's advice on whether I should part the 98 engine , send it somewhere to be rebuilt and then sell it, or sell it as is. I dont think the block is damaged because I promptly cut off the engine but only an inspection can tell for sure. Your thoughts?

 

[Coz]

No weaker than with the C series Regan. Just have to take the same precautions.

On the J swap the tranny weak is what I worry about. Any thoughts?

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. I think the trick on the older C30 block that didn't have the Honda MLS HG from the factory (and therefore perhaps smoother mating surfaces) is the Permatec stuff that you've been using.

It really is Dave. Its amazing stuff actually. Especially when you don't have the luxury of being able to send a block out and have it resurfaced because you're not breaking it down far enough to send out.

I never had a stock engine that lifted it's heads after I've done them, I've worked on many that have. Some from boost over a period of time, some from over boost and away they went, and some from just over heating really bad. The one's I mentioned were boosted cars where the heads were originally torqed to the standard 56 pnds for a C30 and 78 for a C32 on struds.
Most times stock motors do just fine and if the head gaskets do go, it's usually just from over heating on NA cars.

The biggest issues with FI cars is the boost and a combination of running hotter because of the boost, which is why we are always looking for ways to cool the charge, the water temps and keep the heat in check. Aluminum blocks just don't like to get hot. My issues personally on my car were from boost, was having issues where my Wastegate was located on my manifold and I was having boost creep and boost spikes. Very bad combination. Once I got that worked out, the lifting head issues stopped totally. Lessons learned the hard way I also started torqing oem head bolts to 70 ft pnds, a little trick Fes from FXMD taught me years back. I found that the additional torq from the standard 56 pnds did wonders on motors whether NA or FI for a C30 block. The C32 block is a little different animal. The threads don't do well if using bolts at 70 pnds unless the block has been time certed.