Efficiency of Radiator Ducts with Air Vents

Cooling varies on radiator inlet opening and then on air velocity. High pressure in front of radiator aids velocity of hot air post radiator in the ducted low pressure area. A shrouded fan further aids in lowering the pressure here as well. Empty warm air into airflow over car.

Unless I'm missing something. ;)
 
The aperture in the bumper for the radiator intake is much much bigger than the outlet in ANY vented hood that I have seen. So, I reckon it would be better to not "seal" the radiator ducting to the hood as this will cause a positive pressure and ultimately reduce flow through the radiator.

So for the best compromise between reducing aerodynamic lift caused by air flow under the car and most efficient cooling; I reckon that instead of sealing the duct to attempt to make all the air coming through the radiator is pushed out through the vented hood's much smaller aperture; wouldn't it be better to have the duct more as a guide to direct the air from the radiator out of the vented hood but as the speed and pressure builds, the air is allowed to spill around and under the duct to maintain the air flow through the radiator?

I reckon you're right on the money AU_NSX and that is probably why Honda did not fully enclose the airflow on the NSX-R

Errr, no. The reason closing the path works to get better airflow through the radiator is that you are sealing the low pressure zone from the higher pressure from under the car. As speed increases the last thing you want to do is add to the under car pressure from an even higher pressure source. Say, directly from the front of the car. "Guiding" air by deflection is a sure way to promote an even higher drag value. Having a high pressure zone fed to a low pressure zone is a freebie. Placing a radiator in that flow is a win win; letting it exit under or around under the car really just defeats all the good engineering.

Example, "Driving Ambition" the Development of the Mclaren F1, page 80. A good read and let's you "take" Gordon Murray's word for it. If you think the red heated flow at the front tires is feeding into the wheel arch, you would be wrong. It goes to the working side strakes and feeds it into another low pressure area. There used to be wind tunnel pics that showed how effective that system was. Clearly designed to a different selling point, but I think we can agree Gordon wasn't one known for cutting corners or doing bad design.

The nsx-r front under floor is a bit more extensive than the nsx and the fender liners block the airflow from going into the wheel wells. It is pretty evident the direction they were going and it wasn't about "guiding" air flow.
 
The nsx-r front under floor is a bit more extensive than the nsx and the fender liners block the airflow from going into the wheel wells. It is pretty evident the direction they were going and it wasn't about "guiding" air flow.
Had a bit of trouble understanding what you were saying in the first two paragraphs but after reading it a few times I do agree with what you are saying there! Which leads to your last paragraph which I would like to explore further...

Personally I'm debating the need for a duct at all...

If you can seal off the underside of the car with a splitter/under tray combination, no air can escape under the car anyway. All the air which goes through the radiator can only exit the vented hood; ducted or not.

With the omission of the duct, that area would be free to put the weighty items normally put in the boot... i.e. remote oil filter, additional oil cooler, radiator for the water/air intercooler and reservoir and possible placement of future water/meth injection reservoir if the new water/air intercooler does not drop IAT enough. Basically the more weight I can relocate from the back to the front the better.

All the ducts I have seen take up all that space, so I don’t want to run a duct at all. Unless someone can give a compelling reason that sealing off the underside of the car is not sufficient to direct all the hot air from the radiator out the vented hood and over the car?
 
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I know this topic is more about radiator effectiveness than with creating downforce and/or reducing lift.
I recently put the Downforce bumper undertray under my car in combination with a homemade aluminum battery undertray. I already have the VIS NSX-R hood (or variation of it). I also have the Dali Racing 1st Gen radiator duct for guiding the air towards the hood opening.

Before the Downforce undertray I could sometimes see the hood move a bit at high speeds. Now that seems to be gone.
Also, the nose of the car seems more stable at high speeds than before, so it seems that the underbody is indeed effective at sealing of the underside and preventing any air from getting under the hood and/or preventing radiator air from flowing into the wheel wells and under the car.
 
Interesting opinions, but aero performance is so very subtle we really need hard measurements / evidence from a test comparing radiator efficiency of the NSX-R setup to an identical car with fully enclosed duct.
 
Had a bit of trouble understanding what you were saying in the first two paragraphs but after reading it a few times I do agree with what you are saying there! Which leads to your last paragraph which I would like to explore further...

Personally I'm debating the need for a duct at all...

If you can seal off the underside of the car with a splitter/under tray combination, no air can escape under the car anyway. All the air which goes through the radiator can only exit the vented hood; ducted or not.

With the omission of the duct, that area would be free to put the weighty items normally put in the boot... i.e. remote oil filter, additional oil cooler, radiator for the water/air intercooler and reservoir and possible placement of future water/meth injection reservoir if the new water/air intercooler does not drop IAT enough. Basically the more weight I can relocate from the back to the front the better.

All the ducts I have seen take up all that space, so I don’t want to run a duct at all. Unless someone can give a compelling reason that sealing off the underside of the car is not sufficient to direct all the hot air from the radiator out the vented hood and over the car?
Adding an NSX-R or similar "flat bottom" does not seal off the bottom of the car. There are still huge gaps everywhere. Even the factory NSX-R duct dosnt completely "seal" off the radiator properly. While an unducted hood will greatly improve front downforce, underhood pressure (lift) can be reduced further by completely sealing the radiator to hood vent.

Why are you trying to add more weight to the front of the car? Why is that "better"?
 
Per the Honda NSX-R website detailing the evolutionary changes on the NA2. Pertinent information highlighted:

http://world.honda.com/NSX/technology/t3.html

Honda NSX-R Tech said:
A front hood air duct:
the aerodynamic mechanism for creating downforce

At the rear, downforce is easily obtained using a wing-type spoiler. At the front, though, adding too big an aerodynamic device can negatively affect minimum ground clearance and/or the approach angle. Increased aerodynamic resistance resulting in reduced acceleration is also another example of the many problems associated with obtaining appropriate downforce in a road-going car.

The solution we chose was to design the underbody of the car as flat as possible to encourage smooth airflow under the car, maintaining airflow speed to create downforce. This method not only provides for adequate ground clearance and approach angle but also does not unduly increase the forward-protruding surface of the body. However, this led to a new problem: how to extract the airflow through the front radiator that had previously been channeled underneath the car?

Taking advantage of the car's mid-ship layout, an air duct was added in the front hood to provide the necessary extraction route. Longitudinal fins were also added to the outer left and right sides of the front under-cover tray to prevent the air passing under the car from entering the front wheel wells. Similarly, spats have been added to both sides of the air ducts to channel air passing through the ducts away from the wheel wells. The opening ratio under the front bumper has also been reduced to limit as much as possible the actual amount of air flowing through. All these innovations result in a smoother airflow both under the body and through the front hood, achieving the desired downforce.

No large aerodynamic appendage was required, helping maintain the original NSX's overall design and ensure a relatively low aerodynamic drag. Downforce was thus achieved without sacrificing top speed.

Wind tunnel tests have shown that when the car is at an angle relative to wind direction, the longitudinal fins of the front under-cover tray function in the same way as the chin spoiler, effectively reducing body lift and improving transient characteristics.

Graph showing the exact effect of each aero tool:

t3_03.gif


Those numbers are about as good as it gets in detailing cause/effect. Unless someone wants to question the validity of Honda's data.

Wind tunnel pic:

t3_01.jpg


t3_02.gif


Seems as though smooth airflow under the car was the primary driver and then what to do with the airflow that was previously channeled underneath.
 
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Why are you trying to add more weight to the front of the car? Why is that "better"?
Not trying to add any weight at all... But thinking that some items which are sometimes placed in the rear could be mounted up front. The car has a 40/60 F/R weight ratio so if I had to add say 10kg in the form of an oil cooler and water reservoir and pump for the water/air intercooler, why don't I put that up front where I have removed the spare tyre instead of in the trunk which is putting another 10kg in the rear of an already rear weight biased car.

Adding an NSX-R or similar "flat bottom" does not seal off the bottom of the car. There are still huge gaps everywhere. Even the factory NSX-R duct dosnt completely "seal" off the radiator properly. While an unducted hood will greatly improve front downforce, underhood pressure (lift) can be reduced further by completely sealing the radiator to hood vent.
This is the sort of undertray I'm looking at having one fabricated for the NSX... The photos are not of one for an NSX, but you get the idea of how flush it will be and it seems to effectively close off all the areas up to the wheels and firewall. To me it seems it will be more effective than the NA2 Type R system. What do you think?
 

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Not trying to add any weight at all... But thinking that some items which are sometimes placed in the rear could be mounted up front. The car has a 40/60 F/R weight ratio so if I had to add say 10kg in the form of an oil cooler and water reservoir and pump for the water/air intercooler, why don't I put that up front where I have removed the spare tyre instead of in the trunk which is putting another 10kg in the rear of an already rear weight biased car.

This is the sort of undertray I'm looking at having one fabricated for the NSX... The photos are not of one for an NSX, but you get the idea of how flush it will be and it seems to effectively close off all the areas up to the wheels and firewall. To me it seems it will be more effective than the NA2 Type R system. What do you think?
Makes sense if you're trying to keep the stock weight distribution, but more weight in the rear has its advantages.

The undertray still dosnt "seal" off the bottom of the car but rather makes for a flatter area to improve airflow under the car. I would agree that the one pictured (bigger than nsx-r) would be better but the front diffusers are poorly designed in those pics. A simple 7* slope and larger diffusers would be better. I do like the idea of a larger flat area under the car.
 
The undertray still dosnt "seal" off the bottom of the car but rather makes for a flatter area to improve airflow under the car. I would agree that the one pictured (bigger than nsx-r) would be better but the front diffusers are poorly designed in those pics. A simple 7* slope and larger diffusers would be better. I do like the idea of a larger flat area under the car.

Yes I agree they could be better designed but I suppose those are generic pics... Not bad for off the shelf stuff...

Thanks Billy for your valuable insights into this topic! There are few people with aero experience and fewer still with NSX aero experience and I know the FXMD Team are really on the cutting edge of the NSX development and your teams R&D in aero design is world class stuff! So I really appreciate your time and advice! You've given me lots to re-think through!

Thanks Hrant also for letting me hijack his thread! :redface:
 
Interesting stuff. I have the DF radiator duct and it certainly is fully sealed to my hood. I'm still not sure why Honda's own duct is so "open". Reading everything on this thread and Honda's own data it seems like it doesn't matter all that much. Sounds like the best thing is a good front splitter which Honda didn't want to do for drivability reasons.
 
Interesting opinions, but aero performance is so very subtle we really need hard measurements / evidence from a test comparing radiator efficiency of the NSX-R setup to an identical car with fully enclosed duct.

Not trying to add any weight at all... But thinking that some items which are sometimes placed in the rear could be mounted up front. The car has a 40/60 F/R weight ratio so if I had to add say 10kg in the form of an oil cooler and water reservoir and pump for the water/air intercooler, why don't I put that up front where I have removed the spare tyre instead of in the trunk which is putting another 10kg in the rear of an already rear weight biased car.

This is the sort of undertray I'm looking at having one fabricated for the NSX... The photos are not of one for an NSX, but you get the idea of how flush it will be and it seems to effectively close off all the areas up to the wheels and firewall. To me it seems it will be more effective than the NA2 Type R system. What do you think?

It's not opinion at all sparky, its basic fluid dynamics.. you can perform all the tests in the world, this wont change. yes, some testing to "refine" the package is required, yet the basic physics remain.

Radiator efficiency has nothing to do with aerodynamics. A radiator could be mounted anywhere (on the roof) and be 100% efficient, yet cause a 100% increase in drag and lift; or a radiator can be 100% efficient and cause a minimum increase in drag. Its thermal efficiency has nothing to do with the cars aerodynamics.

On the other hand, I think what you were inferring was that a ducted radiator might not be 100% thermally efficient if the ducting is done wrong. This can be true and can mess up the the cars front end lift and drag. It is self evident that the nsx-r gains an improvement to aero and maintains proper cooling compared to an nsx. Smoothing the flow route for the airflow to and from the radiator can only improve the flow, again basic physics. Leaving odd shaped disruptions or non-uniform area changes in, say the flow exit past the radiator, degrades air flow and increases the local pressure gradient. Testing compared to a nsx-r is not required, just take delta temps before and after the radiator both air and water, with and without the duct will tell what the radiator efficiency is. But that is not the point, dumping heated air under the car or into the wheel wells is. It is the whole reason honda added the vented hood in the first place.

If in your opinion you think dumping heated air under the car is good, please provide some contributing evidence to support your theory. Currently I've 8 of the latest reference texts on my shelf, I'd be happy to compare notes with you. Just let me know which one you are referring to.

AU_NSX, see above bolded area... adding disruptions into the exit flow path does not usually improve flow unless carefully considered. Hence, why Honda took the time to add the carbon thingy post radiator under the hood. Just remember they were putting lipstick on a pig, converting a road car to a track car has a lot of limitations and I'm sure the engineers had a budget cap to deal with based on production cost and profit margin. Bang per buck, maybe?
 
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Not trying to add any weight at all... But thinking that some items which are sometimes placed in the rear could be mounted up front. The car has a 40/60 F/R weight ratio so if I had to add say 10kg in the form of an oil cooler and water reservoir and pump for the water/air intercooler, why don't I put that up front where I have removed the spare tyre instead of in the trunk which is putting another 10kg in the rear of an already rear weight biased car.

This is the sort of undertray I'm looking at having one fabricated for the NSX... The photos are not of one for an NSX, but you get the idea of how flush it will be and it seems to effectively close off all the areas up to the wheels and firewall. To me it seems it will be more effective than the NA2 Type R system. What do you think?

Why not add mass to the engine area and keep the weight low while not adding to the over all polar moment of the car? :tongue:
 
Radiator efficiency has nothing to do with aerodynamics. .... Its thermal efficiency has nothing to do with the cars aerodynamics.
On the other hand, I think what you were inferring was that a ducted radiator might not be 100% thermally efficient if the ducting is done wrong.

The overall aerodynamic effects of the hood vent combined with undertray were discussed at length earlier in this thread, and the benefits of preventing air escaping from under the hood to under the car are clear.

The topic had moved to aerodynamics associated with air flow through the radiator and out the hood vent, and in particular the comparison between closing the airflow from the radiator to the vent ("ducted") vs NSX-R air guide setup ("guided").

Recently I purchased the DF-R duct, largely on basis that more linear airflow through the duct combined with the venturi effect of the hood vent would improved air flow ("aero") through the radiator = bettter thermal efficiency. But when I saw it in real life I became concerned it could be too restrictive and I've held off installing. Hence my comment on AU_NSX's idea that guided solution may be superior. And that needs to include the observations by stuntman that even the NSX-R setup does not have a completely sealed undertray, some air still escapes.

So for my situation the opinions in this thread are very useful - I'm now of the opinion the DF-R is worth a try. But in the end proper engineering tests / measurements of the thermal efficiency of the ducted vs guided solution is the only real confirmation.

To amplify: consider radiator efficiency if the enclosed duct was only (say) a 2 inch tube? Clearly this would be restrictive. So their is an optimum design, which i expect is a ducted solution, and I would really like it to be the DF-R design, but it could still turn out (after measurement) to be the guided solution - IMHO :smile:
 
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Again not the techie type but I can follow layman's logic :wink:

When considering a radiator duct design, let's not forget if the mating is done to the OEM radiator and fan shroud or to aftermarket ones.

To clarify, the OEM fan shroud does NOT cover the entire radiator, it has gaps of about 2-3" (IF i RECALL) at both ends. Hence the DF-R duct will leave air flowing through the ends bouncing inside under the hood looking for an escape. Surely this will cause some inefficiency aero or otherwise.

The Type-R radiator duct is a good/reasonable option for those running an OEM fan/shroud or similar ones such as stand alone fan.

The DaliRacing duct is more efficient in both OEM and aftermarket setups - like the dual Spal fan with shroud I posted - because it captures more of the air flowing through the radiator (with or without a shroud). Per my shade tree mechanic R&D, the Type-R duct's edge is set inside the top radiator hose; whereas the DaliRacing goes behind it. With the dual fan I have, the Type-R would not be efficient nor as effective. On the other hand, Dali's duct can be further improved by making the fit with the hood duct more of a tighter seal - hence the experimentation of adding some further height to it - such as a garage door dust seal :tongue:

I am still looking for an option of making a duct that combines the Dali features with a more tight seal using the hood duct as well. Will be happy to accept your preorder dollars :biggrin:
 
So for my situation the opinions in this thread are very useful - I'm now of the opinion the DF-R is worth a try. But in the end proper engineering tests / measurements of the thermal efficiency of the ducted vs guided solution is the only real confirmation.

To amplify: consider radiator efficiency if the enclosed duct was only (say) a 2 inch tube? Clearly this would be restrictive. So their is an optimum design, which i expect is a ducted solution, and I would really like it to be the DF-R design, but it could still turn out (after measurement) to be the guided solution - IMHO :smile:

Yeah, I hear ya buddy. I did a project for my Thermodynamics and Heat Transfer Professor my senior year of my BSME degree, it was on air stream flow control and thermal efficiency of a bench top HVAC experimental device. I had to re-calibrate all the installed data acquisition sensors, then verify all the heat transfer coefficients for the evaporator. Flow regime, from low fan setting variably to highest fan setting.

This was all in an enclosed duct with velocity sensors sampling 1/3 dia away from evaporator with enclosed fan without flow straighteners. It was a fixed length duct with mist injection, heater, fan and evaporator; the whole design was compromised to fit within a set footprint and go from laminar Re values to fully turbulent values. How do you know when you have maxed out your radiators rate of thermal transfer? (This calc involved a compressible working liquid, R-134, that changed phases and included mixed phase mass flow through the evaporator if you threw to much airflow at the evaporator, headache? Yes, until a buddy posed the possibility. Verified based on mass flow, delta P and T from data set; uses an extra calc all by itself.) Had to calculate that based on a round tube and fin evaporator with silver soldering. Ever sit around and count fins and wonder if you need more?

The velocity profile across the diameter of the round duct were less than uniform and not parallel to the long axis of the duct. How do you average that flow mess out to calculate mass flow with only a single sensor at that length on the duct? Budget constraints force funny engineering solutions. This is the same thing, duct, fan, heat exchanger, entrance, exit. The only difference was I didn't have to worry about area change along the length of the duct. Never the less, area change effects local velocity which changes local pressure. It's all in the transitions here, specifically the exit and entrance.

A little off topic, but I think you will find this funny too. Went to a speed shop to drop off a friends car, saw a tech cutting some mesh screen out of an elbow transition on a middle sized inter-cooler entrance. The inlet side; the transition was at a 20+ degree transition angle. This is horrible and guarantees stalled areas and doubles the pressure resistance of the transition. Worse it kills even flow through the heat transfer area. I tried to explain to the guy he was making a horrible mistake, no go! The mesh did add a small local pressure rise, but maintained attached flow through the transition; this is what made the small inter-cooler work. It diffused the flow evenly and promoted even flow through all the tubes.

Later I heard they ordered a 2x larger inter-cooler, because the first one was just too small and wasn't working. They needed a bigger one for their build, same manufacturer. Guess what they did when they went to install it, cut the mesh screen out. Sigh!

Again not the techie type but I can follow layman's logic :wink:

When considering a radiator duct design, let's not forget if the mating is done to the OEM radiator and fan shroud or to aftermarket ones.

To clarify, the OEM fan shroud does NOT cover the entire radiator, it has gaps of about 2-3" (IF i RECALL) at both ends. Hence the DF-R duct will leave air flowing through the ends bouncing inside under the hood looking for an escape. Surely this will cause some inefficiency aero or otherwise.

The Type-R radiator duct is a good/reasonable option for those running an OEM fan/shroud or similar ones such as stand alone fan.

The DaliRacing duct is more efficient in both OEM and aftermarket setups - like the dual Spal fan with shroud I posted - because it captures more of the air flowing through the radiator (with or without a shroud). Per my shade tree mechanic R&D, the Type-R duct's edge is set inside the top radiator hose; whereas the DaliRacing goes behind it. With the dual fan I have, the Type-R would not be efficient nor as effective. On the other hand, Dali's duct can be further improved by making the fit with the hood duct more of a tighter seal - hence the experimentation of adding some further height to it - such as a garage door dust seal :tongue:

I am still looking for an option of making a duct that combines the Dali features with a more tight seal using the hood duct as well. Will be happy to accept your preorder dollars :biggrin:

Don't let air bleed around the entrance prior to the radiator, transition shape matters. Depending on depth of shroud, past the radiator, and the angle of wall transition, will hugely determine if you stall areas of flow through your radiator. The more stalled or obstructed the radiator the less effective your results. The fans don't have to be mounted right on top of the radiator to work well, most are to minimize depth because of working space. Doesn't mean it is the best design. Mass flow and area are the only concern, you design to the median working air velocity at the radiator face based on the radiators thermal design. (Flow the air past the whole radiator face at the speed which maximizes it's heat transfer. The median H20 flow rate comes into play to determine this and having glycol changes the calculation from pure water.)

Mass flow, channel shape, area change, entrance and exit transition all affect the pressure profile to the exit. Adding less restrictions is obvious, but dealing with size limitations just makes it more fun.
 
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Don't let air bleed around the entrance prior to the radiator, transition shape matters. Depending on depth of shroud, past the radiator, and the angle of wall transition, will hugely determine if you stall areas of flow through your radiator. The more stalled or obstructed the radiator the less effective your results. The fans don't have to be mounted right on top of the radiator to work well, most are to minimize depth because of working space. Doesn't mean it is the best design. Mass flow and area are the only concern, you design to the median working air velocity at the radiator face based on the radiators thermal design. (Flow the air past the whole radiator face at the speed which maximizes it's heat transfer. The median H20 flow rate comes into play to determine this and having glycol changes the calculation from pure water.)

Mass flow, channel shape, area change, entrance and exit transition all affect the pressure profile to the exit. Adding less restrictions is obvious, but dealing with size limitations just makes it more fun.


In layman's term, this seem to be pretty much the opposite of what Honda did with the Type R. The front Type R bar is smack on the path of the radiator (and almost all have to cut the front shroud to mount them), and they also reduced the size of the front bumper's mouth (the latter was more for aerodynamics).

As for the angle of the air flowing behind the radiator, so far there are three options on the market: the DF-R, DaliRacing and the Type-R. This is where the discussion of the efficiency is now - which one of these three or can there be a more efficient fourth option too.

As for the angle
 
Did they reduce the opening or is that referring to the lower splitter lip?

Err no, I think they just used what they had and went for best bang for the buck they had to work with. The shape of the hood exit and the carbon thingy under the hood gave them the best return on investment and they were in the balance range front to rear they wanted. /end $$$ from Peanut Counter
 
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... the OEM fan shroud does NOT cover the entire radiator, it has gaps of about 2-3"

I checked - you're right. Good point !
Damn, now I need to get a better shroud :frown:
But it will make me faster, right ! :biggrin:
 
according to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernoulli%27s_principle pressure differentials and flow are interdependent. This suggests increasing the air velocity behind the radiator out the duct reduces pressure behind radiator. The higher the difference in pressure either side of radiator the higher the air flow through it = better thermal efficiency.
 
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I've got all of the NSX-R ducting and panels on my car. Unless I've got the A/C on the HVAC blows hot air, all the time, even if if it's turned off there is still some warm air that slowly makes its way through, it's kind of annoying actually. :(
 
according to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernoulli%27s_principle pressure differentials and flow are interdependent. This suggests increasing the air velocity behind the radiator out the duct reduces pressure behind radiator. The higher the difference in pressure either side of radiator the higher the air flow through it = better thermal efficiency.

Nope, just increasing flow rate through one path of a heat exchanger (radiator) does not = increased efficiency. I don't know where you keep getting this idea.
"Heat Exchangers, selection, ratings, and thermal design" by Sadik Kakac is a good reference. I'd suggest the first four chapters, they cover single phase mass flows for tube and fin heat exchangers.

In fact, there is a design velocity optimum for a given fin count and tube geometry. Where increasing flow velocity actually results in less heat transfer. That sounds bad right, less efficient. It matters if the flow is Re turbulent or laminar, which means outside air temp is also a factor.
 
I've got all of the NSX-R ducting and panels on my car. Unless I've got the A/C on the HVAC blows hot air, all the time, even if if it's turned off there is still some warm air that slowly makes its way through, it's kind of annoying actually. :(

That's the downside to venting heat just upstream of the HVAC outside air inlet. A similar reason the Mclaren F1 uses those door side vents to exhaust the radiator air flow. Since the engine air intake is centrally located on the roof. Just buck it up, it's a small price to pay for the increased performance. It looks cool too.
 
In layman's term, this seem to be pretty much the opposite of what Honda did with the Type R. The front Type R bar is smack on the path of the radiator (and almost all have to cut the front shroud to mount them), and they also reduced the size of the front bumper's mouth (the latter was more for aerodynamics).

As for the angle of the air flowing behind the radiator, so far there are three options on the market: the DF-R, DaliRacing and the Type-R. This is where the discussion of the efficiency is now - which one of these three or can there be a more efficient fourth option too.

As for the angle

I think Billy has already covered the basic optimization of any of these choices, shroud the entrance as best you can (no right angles to flow if possible) and shroud the back of the radiator to the fans (again no faces at right angles to flow). Then seal the hood as best as possible using the under hood space as the final part of the flow path to the hood. Some under car venting is gonna happen.

If you really want to duct the whole path, head to your local library and see if you can check out SMACNA "HVAC Systems Duct Design", head to the back tables 14-11 on pressure loss coefficients for transitions. Converging flow and diverging flow. The higher the coefficients the more restrictive your design will be. They also show you a pressure profile to a simple duct with increasing and decreasing cross sectional areas. It will give you a better idea of what to avoid as you begin your fiber glassing science project.
 
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